Since 3rd gen is so new and I imagine you want to maintain your warranty, you will need to use an oil meeting GMs Dexos1 Specification. GM Dexos1 has 3 different generations as well, but do not use Dexos2 - Dexos2 is their light duty diesel oil.

If the truck is your daily driver and you're going to put more than 10k miles/16k km on it a year, I would run 5W30 Dexos1 Gen3 in the summer and then change that to a 0W30 Dexos1 in the winter. The reason being that heavier oils should provide more protection to the engine (but also increase resistance, which can be a problem in the winter). Although you could also try 5W30 in the winter and then have it changed to 0W30, that seems like it might leave you stranded...

Mobil1 Advanced Full Synthetic 5W30 is Dexos1 Gen3 certified per their website and the GM database, but any Full Synthetic that is Dexos1 Gen3 should do the job and keep your engine running, although I'd personally stay away from Amazon Basics, Fram, and the other "bargain/economy" oils and stick with Mobil1, Valvoline, etc...

Mobil 1™ 5W-30 Synthetic Oil| Mobil™ Motor Oils

Mobil 1™ 5W-30 is designed to keep your engine running like new by providing outstanding wear protection, cleaning power and overall performance.

www.mobil.com

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The difference between 0W-30 and 5W-30 is very minimal so either should be fine. If you do not want to be switching back and forth, pick whatever is readily available to you in your area.

 

Mobil 1, Mobil 1 EP or Mobil 1 AFE 0w30 are all dexos 1 gen 3 approved. All are excellent oils.

 

I’d recommend switching oils when things get cold. That viscosity change during the winter months will really help the oil travel through the engine quicker which leads to less metal to metal contact. My colleagues in northern Canada all have their customers switch to 0W in the winter months whether it be industrial or automotive. Make sure your oil is Dexos 1 Gen 3. Here is a list:

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Use a Dexos 1 Gen 3 certified oil like @ARCowboy said, and don’t buy Amazon or cheap oils. You really want good additives. The additives are going to make a significant difference to the life of the engine. I’d recommend valvoline, phillips 66, and chevron.

So in closing, full synthetic DEXOS 1 GEN 3 Certified is what you want to put into your engine.

 

and don’t buy Amazon or cheap oils. You really want good additives.

Amazon doesn't make their own oil, neither does Walmart. This comment doesn't really align with current oil quality. In fact, Amazon Basics 5w-30 is a dexos1 gen 3 certified full syntheitc oil that is made by Warren. Walmart Super Tech 5w-30 is also a full synthetic dexos1 gen 3 that is also made by Warren, ExxonMobil, or Pennzoil (depending on the product).

There have been countless tests done on the cheap, white label oils and there's never been any indication that they are bad oils. They can't be, otherwise they would be unable to meet certifications like dexos1 gen 3.

So in closing, full synthetic DEXOS 1 GEN 3 Certified is what you want to put into your engine.

Agreed. That is the most important, brand really doesn't matter.

 

Since this is my first GM, and I'm a Pennzoil Ultra Platinum guy, what exactly is special about Dexos? It seems like marketing and the same thing Ford does with Motorcraft. I'd love to see some comparisons of Pennzoil ultra platinum vs. a Dexos. PUP used to be Dexos certified and they simply just stopped paying for the branding, so what changed? Isn't their normal Platinum version still Dexos as well?

I think it was because PUP doesn't sell in the same volume as their normal Platinum line so it was a move to save some money on their part. The reason I ask is because when buying in bulk, the price increase for PUP is negligible and I'd rather have it's being a much better oil. If anyone recalls the tests that Project farm did, they compared all the Pennzoil ones and PUP won every category, then all the other oil tests were done and it came in #3 with Amsoil and Redline barely beating it, and Mobil 1 was right in the same category as Castrol, Amazon, Quaker, Royal Purple and SuperTech.

What I'm saying is obviously not all oils are created equal and if you don't care to read in between the lines or the fine print then by all means, stick with the marketing - but some oils meet and/or exceed the dexos testing along with every single other specification: ILSAC GF-6, API SP and GM* dexos1 Gen 2, Gen 3 and dexos R. They just don't pay for the dexos label.

This is why it's also funny to me when people use inferior oil brands and chose to change earlier rather than at optimal intervals through testing. Not that changing early is a bad thing, but if your argument is engine lifespan, why would you use inferior oils just because it has a sticker on it?

I love these threads

 

Perfect. Thank you all so much for the info.
Typically I use Mobil 1 synthetic. So I should be good there. The only oil I might have been questioning is the synthetic Kirkland brand from Costco. I might look a bit more into that.

 

Perfect. Thank you all so much for the info.
Typically I use Mobil 1 synthetic. So I should be good there. The only oil I might have been questioning is the synthetic Kirkland brand from Costco. I might look a bit more into that.

Kirkland oil is also made by Warren.

 

I just changed mine to Mobil 1 dextos gen3. I bought a new oil plug to be on the safe side. The oil really come out fast!!!

 

dexos 1 Gen 3 is a decent spec.

 

Like, I get that brand name oils might have a slight upper hand over Kirkland … but it really seems like if it meets dexos gen 3, then it’s good enough oil for the general public…

 

You aren't wrong. As long as your oil has the standards then for 99% of people that is all that matters. I'm just picky as hell because I work in the industry

 

I typically run this grade of Mobil 1 in the colder fall months. Keeps the engine as basic as possible to prevent complex failures.

 

I typically run this grade of Mobil 1 in the colder fall months. Keeps the engine as basic as possible to prevent complex failures.

View attachment 447312

Nice!!!...but 10w40? Too heavy for the fall, LOL!!!

 

Quaker State Full Synthetic is the only oil I use on all of my vehicles after a ton of research on testing.... Look it up!

 

I'm a Motul fanboy so that'll be going in mine.

 

I've seen enough fleet vehicles run on the absolute cheapest garbage you can imagine and run well into the 500k range that I'm pretty confident if it has anything in the sump it'll last practically forever. Oh the things I've seen.

If it meets the spec, forget about the rest. Even looking at used and virgin oil analysis samples are kind of useless in a lot of cases. As much as I hate to say it anyway, most of these vehicles will rot out around you or fail in every other conceivable way long before you see any kind of oil related failure because you used brand x instead of brand y.

 

most of these vehicles will rot out around you or fail in every other conceivable way long before you see any kind of oil related failure because you used brand x instead of brand y.

Key is to change the oil regularly.
Don't wait until your "oil life monitor" says 1% left to squeeze out a few more miles between changes, or believe the advertising on the oil bottle says "good for 10,000 miles" b.s.

 

i suggest switching oils when things get cold

 

In case anyone was concerned, here is a picture of the 5w-30 I took at my local Canadian Costco , as you’ll see, it’s Gen 3 certified

 

The real issue is whether you are concerned about warranty coverage for an oil related problem. Vehicle manufacturers will look to any excuse to deny warranty coverage. So, if you can't show you used a Dexos X oil during the warranty period, then GM will deny warranty repairs. Same for any other vehicle manufacturer.

Once your warranty period is up, you can use any oil you like.

 

Is there a link to the Project Farm data?

These charts dont tell the whole story. If Manuf A doses with 3000 ppm, but Manuf B doses with 2000 ppm, it doesnt necessarily mean that Manuf A is better. You need to look at the base loading of the raws, and measure SOMETHING other than dosage, i.e. actual performance of dispersion.

 

Exactly, additives are just part of the picture.

Ultimately, if UOA shows wear levels at or below average then there's nothing to worry about. If UOA shows elevated wear metals then absolutely try a different oil and re-check after running it for an entire interval to see if there's any improvement. That is the only way to know if the oil is doing its job or not.

 

The other thing with additives, and this encompasses all of them, is that the total package makes the oil. I've seen more often than not people throwing around the total ZDDP number or other numbers as the end all be all in how an oil will perform and honestly, that simply isn't the case. Case in point the guys with flat tappet engines... you need an oil with a high film strength period. The HDEO oils get there but even they don't have the crazy high ZDDP levels they used to. It's the whole package and a lot of people get lost in the mix not understanding that.

 

Any issues with fuel dilution? Turbo on my CX5 tends to dilute the oil a bit. I actually moved to a higher viscosity oil @ 100 C to combat it and change it at 5k miles.

planning to do the changes at 5k as well for the Colorado. Planning on using amsoil boosted which has a slightly higher viscosity at 100c vs signature.

 

Does this mean I'm doing harm by changing every 6k miles?

 

You're fine as long as you're not letting the oil life reach 0% and then still driving well beyond that.

 

Just My Opinion and my past and future guideline.

The L3B is a Turbo engine - So I will never go by the OLM.
My OCI will depend solely on my driving style/Habits.
Summer Heat (stop and go city driving) or Summer (Interstate/turnpike) driving or towing.
or
Very Cold Winter - start (drive a short distance) and shut off - You have to get the oil temp up to operating temp for a decent amount of time to help evaporate the moisture that has accumulated.
Avoid as much idle time as possible - which might contribute to some fuel dilution - which will need a shorter OCI.

So I have lived by this for over 35yrs.
My OCI has never changed - I run a High Quality Synthetic via a Group III or PAO & I never skimp on Oil Filter.
I change my oil Once before Summer - (May) & Once before Winter - (Nov).
This is usually between 5K & 7K miles.

I would never recommend this to others - I don't concern myself with what others do - takes to much energy - but it's a successful method since I was 18 & I'm 60 now.

I will not get into Oil brands & viscosity loyalties & filters - it's similar conversation to Religion and Politics & I want no part of it...

 

Just My Opinion and my past and future guideline.

The L3B is a Turbo engine - So I will never go by the OLM.
My OCI will depend solely on my driving style/Habits.
Summer Heat (stop and go city driving) or Summer (Interstate/turnpike) driving or towing.
or
Very Cold Winter - start (drive a short distance) and shut off - You have to get the oil temp up to operating temp for a decent amount of time to help evaporate the moisture that has accumulated.
Avoid as much idle time as possible - which might contribute to some fuel dilution - which will need a shorter OCI.

So I have lived by this for over 35yrs.
My OCI has never changed - I run a High Quality Synthetic via a Group III or PAO & I never skimp on Oil Filter.
I change my oil Once before Summer - (May) & Once before Winter - (Nov).
This is usually between 5K & 7K miles.

I would never recommend this to others - I don't concern myself with what others do - takes to much energy - but it's a successful method since I was 18 & I'm 60 now.

I will not get into Oil brands & viscosity loyalties & filters - it's similar conversation to Religion and Politics & I want no part of it...

Just an FYI, not that it will change your mind but it might help you or others to understand the OLM, the OLM is based on your driving habits and style as well as temps (engine and ambient), idle time, average trip distance, etc. It's not time- or mileage-based and the OLM will reduce the oil life % faster under harsher conditions. Following the OLM will not result in any problems or running the oil past its useful life.

 

That' s all ya needed to say - No Actual Data to prove it.
Just Faith and Belief in what you are told - So I should believe everything the Government tells me as well?

Na- No thanks - I will stick with my method.

 

That' s all ya needed to say - No Actual Data to prove it.
Just Faith and Belief in what you are told - So I should believe everything the Government tells me as well?

Na- No thanks - I will stick with my method.

I've updated my post with a link, if you want to believe that you know better than engineers and tribologists...then by all means, do whatever you want to do. I'm not asking you to believe anything, just be open-minded. Following the OLM will not reduce engine life.

 

I work in a NH3 plant with more then 13 engineers for the past 18 yrs and to be honest they come to us (operators) = the ones who do the work - for answers and advice.
Like I stated - I'm not one who looks for others for answers - I will do what I feel is right for my driving style/habits.

As you LOOK through my Posts - I never once told any member NOT to follow the OLM installed within their auto!
My mind is more then opened minded - and taught in todays world - don't believe every thing your told via esp internet mechanics .

I once said - I will not recommend my method - it works flawless for me - I was only sharing it with the OP.
I am not and never will be a follower - I don't care what others do.

To the OP - I appolgize for sharing my OCI methods - It's has shown to be a very sensitive matter.

 

Your previous post about "faith," "belief," "the government" etc suggests otherwise and nobody else here is being sensitive about anything, it's only you and your responses that are resulting in this thread going down a strange path. Do what you like, as I've already said, but maybe also reread your posts as they come off a bit...odd.

 

I only Shared my Method - You are the one who took it down that strange path!
I will end my posts here.

Boy - God Bless Ya Drax!
Yes I will do as I like --- It Works!