Nothing beats the OEM paper one

 

Which is crazy. I can't think of another vehicle where that's the case. 9/10 times an CAI is better for performance and mpg. 99/100 a drop in, high flow filter is better.

 

Doesn't make sense to me??
I have the the afe power airbox and I stayed close to the same milage , maybe 1 mpg less because I like the sound jumping on it .

 

Mine is just the drop in filter. I decided against the whole intake because folks on here were saying the stock system is just as good. I bought it for the better airflow and filtration but maybe the filtration is too effective? I did buy the Pro Dry over the K&N and aFe Magnum Flow for the filtration.

 

I don't know if dry flows get the same UOA silicon issue though. There are a lot of low silicon UOA's from the dry types on BITOG.

 

Seems so. Somebody posted a test on a different thread not to long ago where it showed the oiled filters actually filtered the worst of all of the test subjects. ( I think there were 2 oiled types, a K&N and one more I think) Surprised me, I thought the oil would help quite a bit to catch dirt. It must be that the oiled types have larger holes for dirt to go through, so to speak, than the dry. I'm thinking if it had a finer filter capability the oil would just plug it up?? Right?
I'm pretty sure that test wasn't on the bob oil guy site, somewhere else. Don't feel like searching for it, I'm too lazy....lol. It was very interesting though, If I remember correctly, the paper actually flowed very well too. I wonder if the cleanliness of the filter (any type) makes the most difference in flow?

 

Can we PLEASE stop referencing this ancient web page
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm

I have tons of respect for BITOG but damn, this is NOT enough info.

 

Have you seen this test? It was done for the full size Duramax, and was as scientific a test as you can get. Done in actually laboratory with equipment designed specifically for the purpose.

It should be noted that this was wroth the full size Duramax, which uses a very different style of filter than the twins. However it does very clearly show some traits of certain types of media.


http://www.billswebspace.com/AirFilterTest.htm




Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

And if mods can't see that this is an insult/antagonistic attack on another member, then we have other problems as well.

 

Randall, we can go back to your first posts, and your argumentative nature is clearly a streak in your personality, at least as conveyed in tone online. Your history is the proof, there is no debating it.

I've seen you attack others with coy remarks about their intelligence or ability to process information, this is not uncommon in your past threads/posts.

Maybe just consider, for a moment, that other people have equality in their opinions relative to you, and that other people can very well input information with equal validity to your own.

From other threads on this conversation, your position is clear. I don't think there's much reason to defend it, clearly the OEMs use what they use for a reason.

 

The situation has been addressed, time to move on and get back on topic!

 

My God...this thread is just about as bad as the 'oil filter' thread. Ya'll spend more time trying to prove and convince each other how bad eachothers filter choices are. Screw ya'll!! Run what you wanna run!! .


OK...so I have an AFE ProDry in my V6. I didn't see any changes in mpg - maybe 1mpg. I bought for the cleaning and certainly not for any throttle response or horsepower gains. I had an AFE ProDry in my 2007 Tacoma for 9 years without any issues.
@Turns31 - How many tanks have you run since having it?

 

My God...this thread is just about as bad as the 'oil filter' thread. Ya'll spend more time trying to prove and convince each other how bad eachothers filter choices are. Screw ya'll!! Run what you wanna run!! .


OK...so I have an AFE ProDry in my V6. I didn't see any changes in mpg - maybe 1mpg. I bought for the cleaning and certainly not for any throttle response or horsepower gains. I had an AFE ProDry in my 2007 Tacoma for 9 years without any issues.

@Turns31 - How many tanks have you run since having it?

About 1.5 tanks worth of driving. Enough to get an average that's worth a damn. I've already put the paper one back in. Contacted AFE but haven't heard back yet. I didn't expect any HP or torque gains either. This isn't a fast truck and I don't drive it as such. Just watched some more efficient filtration and maybe an extra mpg. I watched the instant mpg's display while I was driving the other day on the highway. Going 74 mph I was getting 19-20 mpg while on level roads. Used to be about 24 mpg before.

 

I also imagine that they'd get you a refund if you wanted to. Afe has been a good company for me to deal with in terms of aftermarket.

 

$60 down the drain.

yup!


(don't attack me, I'm agreeing with the OP!)

 

Not much, I think. With modern fuel injection and constant closed-loop operation, we're talking about a system that auto-compensates fueling to match air intake, so the difference in what you'll end up with can only be reduced pumping losses of the engine, working against pressure drop. That drop can't be too much. Some? Sure! I bet it would sound gnarly though.

I want to make a point of safety over things like this too, at least in the eyes of warranty. Aftermarket filters go on Mopar, Ford Racing, GM Performance etc. intakes. They can't be deadly for the engine because factory performance tuning outfits use them. There are vehicles right off the dealer lot with mods like this, and warranties are not questioned (nor should they be.) It might be a question of filtration of, what, a couple % difference? That could be the difference between living in a place with some dirt road vs. not. That's just how I see it.

 

Generally aftermarket air filter elements allow more dirt to pass. However 99.9% of the time, for most applications it's not enough to matter during the lifetime of the vehicle. If it's a work, construction, off-road, or hunting truck I would stay with OEM personally.


Now aftermarket air-boxes do have a couple of places where they can make gains. And you need to understand that the OEM has to make concessions for noise abatement, water intrusion, reliability, where the aftermarket doesn't have those same limitations.


The aftermarket has the ability to increase surface area of the filter element therefore they have the option of reducing restriction with no loss of efficiency if they choose the right components.


The second thing they can often get easy improvements is in the piping. The OEM stuff is just about always corrugated where-as the aftermarket stuff can be perfectly smooth and/ or straighter. That part can make a notable difference. Especially if the intake tube is insulated or at least plastic. Also that smooth tube doesn't always show up as more dyno hp but sometimes the throttle just picks up a lot quicker.


I have personally dynoed my old 2011 Hyundai Genesis Coupe and watched it gain something like 17 rwhp with the only change being the air filter box from stock to *****. Maybe OEM designs have improved a lot since that one was designed but the aftermarket was able to give me great bang for the buck.


I have also dynoed 2 different aftermarket air boxes on my current Corvette and they had a 5hp difference between the 2.


Does any of this apply to the twins? I don't know. Maybe GM designed the Twins air-boxes so well that at our power levels there is no gain to be had?

 

you need to understand that the OEM has to make concessions for noise abatement, water intrusion, reliability, where the aftermarket doesn't have those same limitations.

Seems to me those are some very important "limitations", you did forget "dirt filtration" as something they can ignore too....lol

Another thing lots of these "Cold air intakes" ignore is COLD AIR. Why go through all that trouble just to pull most of your air from the radiator? I just don't get it. I do remember years ago, don't know where I heard it, and I might be remembering it wrong or dreamt it but, a hotter engine gets better MPG. Might have been something to do with gas atomization which wouldn't mean much now with fuel injection, especially DI. You guys ever heard that? I know heat kills power though. At least when it comes to the air charge.

Anyway, I hope these high dollars systems at least pull cold air from the fender or something. I've seen a pic of the K&N (not exactly cheap) and it looked like it just pulls from the engine compartment? kind of just a big box around it to block water I guess? K&N 77-3088KP Performance Air Intake System, Intake Kits

 

So AFE got back to me and wasn't all that helpful. Guy said that they don't test MPG and don't make any promises or guarantees on an increase. He did say in their test it produced 56% more airflow than the stock paper filter so there's that.

 

I am sorry to say, but this is completely impossible with today's new vehicles.

Brand new vehicles are so tightly controlled through their computers that there a MILLIONS of parameters being controlled in milliseconds. This is why most aftermarket tunes are need to show any REAL performance gains on the dyno from intakes, exhaust, etc.

Just dropping in a filter replacement, you truck's computer is adjusting for the difference in air on the fly.

Most older vehicles from pre-2000's I could maybe see your point and agree, but it just isn't happening. In order to get a DIRECT comparison, you would have to test them back to back on a dyno, in cruise control, in a controlled testing facility. Even if you used cruise control on the same highway same speed, etc there are still too many variable like wind speed, tail wind, head wind, no wind, ambient temp, barometric pressures, air density, humidity, traffic, stop lights, vehicle condition, air pressure in tires, etc etc.

I get what you are saying, but it is human behavior to always look for something that is not there when we tinker and modify ****. Buy a new truck? ****! where's that RATTLE coming from? Why is my OIL PRESSURE look different after my oil change? lol... we all do it.

I don't think you wasted your money though. Give it some time. However, keep in mind the reason you bought the filter in the first place. Longevity, and better airflow.

*EDIT*

I would like to make a suggestion and have you try this as well before giving up on it. Put the air filter back in the truack and disconect the battery for 5 minutes. Re-connect the battery cables and start the truck. While you are re-programming your radio, just sit there and let it idle for FIVE MINUTES with no A/C. Then, at the 5 minute mark, turn the A/C ON and let it idle for 5 MORE MINUTES. After you reach that 10 minutes mark, put the truck in drive and drive NORMAL around the block for 10 minutes doing a lot of city driving (stop and go making sure to let the truck accelerate and decelerate without cruising at a constant speed). When done, turn the truck off and you are good to go.

Anytime I have ever tuned a vehicle, or added performance parts, my tuners have ALWAYS told me to do this. It allows the truck to "learn" from scratch and write it's parameters over since the battery disconnect versus the ones saved before the installs. See if this helps at all.

 

I do the same as Chris...

I always purchase 2...
I do a swap when it's time.

Then do a long process of cleaning, drying, oiling...
then store the filter for the next swap.

I am using the K&N on both my 2017 Colorado Z71 V6, and my 2007 HHR.
I also used on my 2005 Colorado for years, before trading it in.

Keith,
Marietta, GA

 

I ride dirt bikes and nobody would dream of running a K&N filter off road. The standard double layer oiled foam filter used in every dirt bike stops dirt, probably not as great for flow, but it can't be said that a 450cc dirt bike is wanting for power - those things are animals. Seems to me this is one of those if it ain't broke don't fix it deals.

 

Performance air filters people love them or hate them. If there are working for you should keep using them. I have tried them I did not have good luck with them. Maybe it is not your aFe filter maybe it is your air box inlet is too small or restricted. If the airbox inlet was larger it might be able to move more air no matter what filter you use.
51

 

In a DI engine with dry intake valves, any excess dirt with the intake air is begging for more and harder valve deposits.

 

I have the drop in AEM Dry flow filter. Been in a few thousand miles. I have noticed no ill effects. Mileage is about the same as before the swap. I may have noticed better throttle response, but could be the placebo effect.

I Ran the AFE Dry flow in the Xterra for years without issue.

 

Awesome, someone resurrected a thread that had been dead for 2 years with their first post.

 

Youre damned if you start a new thread "and didnt search to add info there" and youre damned if you search, add info to the original thread...You just cant win.

What he posted is pertinent when it comes to oiled filters and dirt bypassing. These DI motors are known to suck oil and dont have the port injection to clean the back sides of the valves and the heated portion of the intake port.