[Xcanuk]

I just ripped everything out tonight, knowing where to look for the screws/bolts made for a real quick job. I'll see my dealer about ordering the panels for the seat backs (22964304) I tried my old box into the Canyon, but the measurements are just slightly off, so it looks like a slight redesign is in order.

 

[btsbarton]

Anyone consider removing the plastic back panel to put a custom rack like this to tie stuff to? Or build a pocket to store things in

On the crew cab, it looks like removing the plastic would gain you a few inches of space rearward on the bottom half. And there's already a few inches of void, you might get a pocket of around 8 inches deep in places that could be used for storage

 

[Xcanuk]

I will be removing the back panel so I can remove the 4 brackets loops along the bottom (child restraints I think)... not sure how much apace you would gain.

 

[Browneye]

Anyone consider removing the plastic back panel to put a custom rack like this to tie stuff to? Or build a pocket to store things in

On the crew cab, it looks like removing the plastic would gain you a few inches of space rearward on the bottom half. And there's already a few inches of void, you might get a pocket of around 8 inches deep in places that could be used for storage

My son in law is LEO and thought the cargo platform was great, then suggested a hidden panel like you've got there for a molle type rack. Said LE would eat that up, pay big bucks for it.

 

[Xcanuk]

I started removing the rear panel but stopped because it seems those 4 child restraint hooks are pop riveted into place and are not removable. (That's what it felt like once I got the bottom of the panel pried away)
The rear panel comes off easy enough , the normal series of pop clips, you do have to take off the head rest bracket (3 bolts). There doesn't seem to be any extra space to be gained back there.

 

[Browneye]

Pop rivets are easily drilled out and removed if you're wanting to clean it up.

 

[Xcanuk]

If I could get to it, I would. Its right against the back wall where you can only get a bit in. I tried to see if the whole bar that the 4 loops are anchor to could be removed, but the wife called for supper.

 

[pcl01]

Here’s another Ext Cab back seat removed thanks to the excellent instructions and pics by JCPA. I also want as much space as possible back there as well as a flat floor platform similar to ones that others on this thread have built although I may make a longer platform and use the existing seat bolts to hold a platform in place. Since other have mentioned how to remove the back panel, I'll just show a picture. I also removed the jack and bracket in the hopes of having a plywood/carpeted back wall that's nearly flat although 3/8" plywood does have some flex. It would need a trim piece at the top and two on the sides to cover the top ledge and side flare openings. I think the four lower anchors might be welded instead of riveted, but either way, a Sawzall will take care of them if I go that route. The opening for the jack cover on the factory panel is nearly flat and I think a piece could be fabricated to cover that opening. There seems to be room under one of the seats for the jack and tool pouch and I'm thinking about some HD Velcro straps to hold them down. Without the back panel in place, there's more road noise. I may watch what others do before making a final decision, but the seats are out and I have a good bit more room for luggage, tools, and all the stuff we carry.

 

[Xcanuk]

I'm pushing for the best of all worlds, on my old truck, I basically built a square tube that gave me a flat floor as well as a drawer system made with recycled drill boxes. Unfortunately, the new Canyon rear doors has an odd'er shape for me to use my old set up. I like my concept, so I've now found some new boxes made by Dewault, they are 13 wide x 17 1/4 long x 6" high... this gives me the width I need to pull them out, ..3x 17¼ = 51¾ and we have 52" in cabin width. My box should raise the floor by about 7", which makes it comfortable for loading stuff onto a flat raised floor.
If all goes well, I should have my 1st version done over the week-end.

 

[Old 96]

I'm pushing for the best of all worlds, on my old truck, I basically built a square tube that gave me a flat floor as well as a drawer system made with recycled drill boxes. Unfortunately, the new Canyon rear doors has an odd'er shape for me to use my old set up. I like my concept, so I've now found some new boxes made by Dewault, they are 13 wide x 17 1/4 long x 6" high... this gives me the width I need to pull them out, ..3x 17¼ = 51¾ and we have 52" in cabin width. My box should raise the floor by about 7", which makes it comfortable for loading stuff onto a flat raised floor.
If all goes well, I should have my 1st version done over the week-end.

Looking forward to seeing it!

 

[JCPA]

Just picked up my filler panels to cover the holes where the seatbacks were taken out - the part number you need to order is 22964304; they were $18.15 each.
Not sure where that other number came from, but it did not come up in the Chevy parts system.

+1 - I also used 22964304 and bought two for $18.15 each. The other part number didn't come up as a valid # with Chevy parts.

I spent a good deal of time with the Chevy parts rep and saw what was described as a jump seat for the rear of the cabin. It could not be ordered. It looked like a single rear seat situated to one side. Has anyone heard or seen anything more on this?

For someone who asked earlier, under each seat back cushion are two hex screws (see the second post on this thread). Remove them and slide the seat back cushion down to remove.

I'm keeping the loop at the top installed and the child LATCH system installed at the bottom to hook bungees and cargo netting.

I really want to remove the seat belts next. They're dead weight.

 

[CaryBosse]

Pop rivets are easily drilled out and removed if you're wanting to clean it up.

I am wondering if that isn't something more than a simple pop rivet he is describing. Drilling out may be possible, but a bit more difficult than a pop rivet.

I see he states it is at a bad angle to drill out, sounds like it might be something for a Dremel or other cutoff tool to attack.

I would sure want to see what was held by that rivet before I removed it. Perhaps an exploded parts view at the parts counter.

As far as comments about finding a jump seat described. I wonder if they are referring to these seats as jump seats, or if they somehow crossed their wires with the 1st gen, didn't it have more of a jump seat?

 

[Xcanuk]

I guess its a pop rivet by definition, but the head of it had to be ¼" in diameter. If I really wanted those brackets out, I would just cut out the bracket entirely (simple solution) . Since my design isn't installed just yet, I might take advantage of the hooks. I always try to leave the truck in a reversible state, but have no problems with drilling extra holes if needed.

 

[Tinker]

The rivets you are talking about are spot welds, I shoved my cell phone in there to try and get a picture to no avail. I just cut the loops off with an air cut off wheel. It would have been nice to get the whole bracket off (Thought about bending them up too) but short of doing anything damaging to my truck I just left em' I installed a pair of down firing 10s in custom boxes and the brackets weren't really in the way.

 

[willworkforbeer]

JCPA,

If you remove those 3 bolts shown in your first pic, the entire headrest support and goofy wire loop can be taken out as an assembly.....
I am working on some filler panels for the holes left when this is done

 

[JCPA]

JCPA,

If you remove those 3 bolts shown in your first pic, the entire headrest support and goofy wire loop can be taken out as an assembly.....
I am working on some filler panels for the holes left when this is done

I would have removed those assemblies, but I put the loops to use instead, until I come up with a better option.

I also put the floor mat over the hole in the carpet.

 

[willworkforbeer]

Tieing stuff down is the reason I left the metal loops that were under the seat backs.
I have some tiedown points on the front of the storage platform so I can use straps or a net to secure stuff if needed.
Not sure I ever will, but who knows.

 

[CaryBosse]

I would have removed those assemblies, but I put the loops to use instead, until I come up with a better option.

I also put the floor mat over the hole in the carpet.

I sure do hope you aren't carrying gas in the cab of your truck. That is definitely something for the bed of the truck.

 

[Xcanuk]

Tieing stuff down is the reason I left the metal loops that were under the seat backs.
I have some tiedown points on the front of the storage platform so I can use straps or a net to secure stuff if needed.
Not sure I ever will, but who knows.

That is what I did on my old canyon, stretched a net against the back wall, attached high to the old seatbelt, and top headrest loops, bottom to the low metal loops. The metal loops were not as pronounced though.
Came in handy for jackets and light stuff,

 

[JCPA]

I sure do hope you aren't carrying gas in the cab of your truck. That is definitely something for the bed of the truck.

The canister is empty at the moment, thanks. My significant other likes living on the edge with her fuel gauge on E. It's just a matter of time.