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Oemassive after market headlights

4.1K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  spoonman  
#1 ·
Hello all I have a 2016 Colorado lt.... I purchased a set of replica Spyder headlights from oemassive same as akon ones... I love them overall the look amazing on the truck but there is one flaw that can be fixed but seems a bit complicating for me.... the led C strip only comes on with the low beam headlights for night time driving unless i turn them on manually but even still when I turn them on manually the led strip and the low beam light come on together.... as of right now for the running lights only the low beam bulb comes on by it’s self nothing else I would really like to have it so that only the led strip and the signals come on as running light and for night driving the low beam strip and signals to be on...... any ideas of how I can do this? I have attached some pictures below one of them has them on as the exact way I want them to be thanks
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#3 ·
Hello all I have a 2016 Colorado lt.... I purchased a set of replica Spyder headlights from oemassive same as akon ones... I love them overall the look amazing on the truck but there is one flaw that can be fixed but seems a bit complicating for me.... the led C strip only comes on with the low beam headlights for night time driving unless i turn them on manually but even still when I turn them on manually the led strip and the low beam light come on together.... as of right now for the running lights only the low beam bulb comes on by it’s self nothing else I would really like to have it so that only the led strip and the signals come on as running light and for night driving the low beam strip and signals to be on...... any ideas of how I can do this? I have attached some pictures below one of them has them on as the exact way I want them to be thanks View attachment 411248 View attachment 411249 View attachment 411250
You would need an elaborate setup of relays and capacitors to do it.

Hooking the 'strip' to the low beams will destroy them. The low beam is PWM and not compatible with leds.

The led headlamp bulbs will generally have some capacitor to help that. It still destroys them. Just not quite as fast.

Yes real LED drivers are pwm as well but they use significantly cleaner power sources at generally two to three times the frequency as GM's BCM.
 
#6 ·
You are probably looking to make something like this I am guessing.

 
#7 ·
Yesss, I also seen the gen5 DRL harness but it is very expensive I’m looking for something less complicating and in the budget.... I was hoping it would be something like find the DRL wire and re route from the low beam to the strip and signals but I have yet to seen someone that’s done just that
 
#8 ·
For the stock headlights, the low beam bulb and DRL actually use one wire. That's what the pwm is for. Its a signal the computer uses and basically dims the bulb for DRL use and full power for night time use. I recently did a retrofit on my headlights and used the Gen5 DIY harness. It'll move the DRL signal the to parking light function of the turn signal. From there you could probably wire your "C" light to that parking signal which should separate them.( I don't guarantee that since my experience comes from working with the factory lights.) And you'd probably have to open the headlight housings.

Either way, the harness is about the only good option for accomplishing that.
 
#11 ·
I know this might sound a little butch but I had an idea..... it would require me to have anther switch inside the truck but what if I put a power cut off switch right at both low beams? That way when I want just the strips on during the day I put the parking lights on and And flip the switch off so that it cuts the low beams off and when ever I need low beams at night I just flip it back on i would put the switch prob under the steering wheel.... do u guys think this would work?
 
#13 ·
You could just wire a dedicated switch to the led. But the two inputs still need to be separated. Also, there's most likely some sort of driver or resistor for that led and it needs to be incorporated or the led won't work. Your power signal would actually go to one of those first, not directly to the light.

Basically, as long as you can isolate the low beam itself, you can power the led however you want. Your low beam will still use the DRL signal though, so you'll have to manually turn them off during the day if that's how you want to run it.
 
#14 ·
So I would have to have 2 switch’s basically? One for each low beam light bulb? I was thinking of running the switch right to the Power and ground of each of my hid bulbs flip it on when I want or need them on, off when I just want to run the parking lights “led strip and signals” it’s not my preferred way of doing it but it seems like the cheapest way and it should work to do what I want to do.... also when I have the parking lights on during the day and have the low beam switch off it will illuminate all the switches inside the vehicle as its in night driving mode but whatever I don’t plan to only run the parking lights during the day all the time either only as I please I guess I don’t want to waste my hours on the led C strip either as I would have to change whole headlight if it did burn out but in theory it should work
 
#15 ·
You could do that to avoid getting into the headlight, and no you don't necessarily need two switches. Just branch the wire after the switch to each low beam and they'll work together. IDK how much you're hids draw for power, but a relay may help in this situation to help keep current down. And you'll want a fuse at the beginning.

You may get a bulb out warning too since you're effectively moving the signal from where the truck thinks it is.
 
#16 ·
I havent tried myself, but I think the "bar" on the akkons is powered or triggered by the corner parking light (the one at the end of the light/fender on the stock lights). The akkons dont have a light there, and im pretty sure its the brown/black wire that you see going to that corner.

I was going to experiment with mine, cutting that brown/black wire to wire to a switched ignition source (without messing with any DRL rewiring) but I never got around to it