Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this months Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 20 of 156 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, so I finally completed my recent project of installing aftermarket headlamps that feature an LED Bar discussed at length here ---> Another new design of DRL Bar Headlights

One of the changes I wanted to make as part of the install was to separate the LED bar feed from the park lamp circuit so it would operate as a standalone DRL without the headlamps being on. To accomplish this I could not simply use the popular retailed DRL relocate harness since that would not allow me to separate the LED bar from the park lamps properly as the harness essentially swaps the low-beam DRLs for the park lamps. So I set off building my own custom DRL relocate harness for these headlamps specifically which is much of what this post focuses on.

As part of the install I replaced all the halogen bulbs in the new headlamps with LEDs (Low-Beam/High-Beam/Park-Lamp/Turn Signal). I was able to salvage my H11 LEDs as they are the same as the 9006 high-beams in the new lamps. As for the wiring harness, after a fair amount of googling to come up with the connector and terminal part numbers needed to make factory quality connection I have made a list below of what I used. (Note: As a byproduct of the wiring harness I designed it allows the factory headlamp switch to work like normal, retaining the ability to turn from auto-lights to just park lamps, a setting that is lost with the popular DRL relocate harness.)

Below is the breakdown the part numbers and I have attached a color coded wiring diagram if anyone feels like replicating what I've done. As for the estimated measurements of the wiring harness you may need to adjust based on your chosen routing, so measure before you cut...then measure again! (Obligatory disclaimer: Since there is a measure of skill involved and an understanding of DC electrical circuits needed, as well as the availability of the tools necessary to properly replicate the presented work; I am not responsible for anything that may go wrong or may not work as intended through your efforts. Proceed at your own risk.)

Here's the breakdown of part numbers for the connectors and terminals that will connect between the OEM headlamp wiring harness connectors and the headlamps, as well as other items needed to complete the harness build:

Connectors
- Female Connector to Headlamp (Qty 2) 33472-0601 (or 0606 w/red locking tab)
- Male Connector to Factory Harness (Qty 2) 33482-0601
- Socket terminal (Female Connector) (Qty 6) 33012-1002
- Pin Terminal (Male Connector) (Qty 6) 33000-1002
(Interestingly these parts are common to Harley Davidsons as well so you will find these sold under various listings. They can be sourced on eBay, Amazon, or from other Molex brand suppliers.)

Wiring & Misc.
- 18ga. Automotive Wiring (Make sure its copper, and you have around 50’. I order bulk 6 color wiring which made identifying which wire was what a lot easier when positioning correctly into the connectors. As a note: I used 16ga. wire but found this was almost too thick and made crimping terminals and inserting into the connectors very difficult.)
- SPDT Relays (Qty 2, 12V 30/40A)
- 1/4 or 3/8" Split Loom Tubing (Only around 8’ is needed.)
- T10 Bulb Socket & Pigtail (Qty 2)
- Open Barrel Crimping Tool
- Wire strippers
- Heatproof Fabric Tape (This is what the factory uses to wrap the wiring harness throughout the vehicle. Amazon has 50’ rolls of the fabric tape for about $9 or less.)
Optional
- Resistors for LED Turn Signals (Qty 2, 50W 6 Ohm)

The attached wiring diagram gives the pin-out of the wiring between connectors and the relays which are needed to make this work. I have also included a basic layout with measurements of the harness including the optional resistors I added for the LED Turn Signals. I routed through a couple of empty posts on the radiator shroud and then down to each headlamp. For the passenger side The harness enters underneath the plastic trim next to the factor harness entry point behind the horns. Also, instead of making holes in the frame for resistor mounting, I was able to locate on Amazon a pack of small heat sinks (4”x2”) that have special heat transfer adhesive backing allowing me to stick them to the underside of the resistors and then zip tied the resistor wiring under the headlight with the resistor handing free away from contacting anything nearby that might melt. We’ll update if this fails in the long term.

As for the Headlamp I prepped the LED connection by using a T10 bulb pigtail connector as the LED comes simply plugged into the side park lamp socket. The new socket wiring can be run through the rubber plug on the back of the headlamp that the other wiring runs through allowing the it to be routed over to the connector you’ll be adding a pin to for the positive lead of the LED bar. (Sorry I didn’t take pics of this. It’s pretty self-explanatory when you have the headlamp sitting in front of you.)

I will say, it was very tedious crimping all the small terminals and making sure to have the connector parts slid onto the wiring ready for assembly once the pins/sockets were crimped. (I made some goofs that I had to redo.) This is a job I sat down for and it took me a couple of evenings taking measurements, cutting wire, crimping terminals, and finally assembling the harness. Once everything was said and done it I think it came out great and my total cost on the harness build was about $125, and I now have lots of bulk wiring, split-loom, fabric tape, and crimping tool for future projects! The headlamps were around $340 shipped from RV & Auto who drop-shipped them from Keystone. They had stock of the clear lens units when everyone else was sold-out, but I think they're back in stock for the eBay sellers now at around $325 shipped.

The headlamp install was as straight forward as following the instructions provided in the forum link…although for the ZR2 there were a couple more screws to be removed as well as the fender flares to partially detach from the corners of the bumper. I removed the engine skid plate as well to make bumper removal and refitting easier.

Anyways, I hope this gives everyone some ideas of what’s possible and know that it doesn’t take a genius to figure these things out, just time, Google, Amazon/eBay, this forum and a little bit of OCD :grin2:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,556 Posts
Nice write up.

So is the drl bar is straight up 12v?

My application is different, but I wonder if I could just add a y splitter from my hd relay harness and connect it to the t10 socket since my relay harness has the capacitor and gets rid of the pwm signal. I don’t mind having my low beams in all the time since I’ve had it like that for years already, so in theory if I tapped this my drl should come on with my low beam drls that are always on (at full power)with the truck right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice write up.

So is the drl bar is straight up 12v?

My application is different, but I wonder if I could just add a y splitter from my hd relay harness and connect it to the t10 socket since my relay harness has the capacitor and gets rid of the pwm signal. I don’t mind having my low beams in all the time since I’ve had it like that for years already, so in theory if I tapped this my drl should come on with my low beam drls that are always on (at full power)with the truck right?

Correct, the LED bar accepts a 12v feed as it was originally wired in to the park lamp circuit which is also 12v. Sounds like your application should work fine especially since your HD harness should provide plenty of power for the addition of another low-amp LED bulb on the same circuit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Nice work, far above my current skill level. Bet they look awesome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
I like how you did the relay. Looks like for anyone wanting clean 12v power for HID's you could substitute a 12v feed from the battery to pin 30 right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The LED bar doesn’t mind the PWM? Or did you use a capacitor?
It's not really advertised well in the retailer ads for these headlamps but the LED bar is prewired to a "decoder" circuit which has a capacitor (see pic from Amazon listing) so no concerns regarding PWM. The harness relays should be fine as well since the coil is powered by a non-pwm power source with the park lamp circuit.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
How does the LED bar behave during turn signals? Constant on, or turn off after signal?
since it's power is from the low-beam feed it's unaffected by the turn-signals, but if you wanted it to flash you could introduce another relay that would alternate flashing between LED bar and signal light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,895 Posts
since it's power is from the low-beam feed it's unaffected by the turn-signals, but if you wanted it to flash you could introduce another relay that would alternate flashing between LED bar and signal light.
Thanks.

Already tight on space for additional relays with the six I already have in the front...



What I'd prefer is the switchback effect, bar off during signals, then back on after signal is canceled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thanks.

Already tight on space for additional relays with the six I already have in the front...

What I'd prefer is the switchback effect, bar off during signals, then back on after signal is canceled.
Yeah, I'd prefer that as well. I'm gonna do a little research and see if that can be done with a special timed relay or something because the vehicles that do that OEM (Audi, Landrover, ect.) I think it's all BCM controlled.

Nice relays/junction block setup! For my needs I added a small relay/fuse box to the empty area forward of the battery. I think it looks nice, but it's a pain routing all the wiring into the small opening in the base.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
It's not really advertised well in the retailer ads for these headlamps but the LED bar is prewired to a "decoder" circuit which has a capacitor (see pic from Amazon listing) so no concerns regarding PWM. The harness relays should be fine as well since the coil is powered by a non-pwm power source with the park lamp circuit.
Nice. Wish these headlights came set up for HID instead of halogen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Thanks.

Already tight on space for additional relays with the six I already have in the front...



What I'd prefer is the switchback effect, bar off during signals, then back on after signal is canceled.
Seems like you could add in a NC relay with the coil connected to the turn signal with a a capacitor inline. It would likely drive you mad trying to figure out the correct size to get the timing correct, but it would be possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Hey there, total wiring noob here:

to add just switchback LEDs to these lights, you would tap one end of the resistor on the ground and the other side of the resistor to the light blue/gray wire right?

Just wanna make sure before I do surgery on these new lights!

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I spent last night wiring up the harnesses and this afternoon installing the lights and harnesses. Hit a few roadblocks (turns out you have to jam those terminals WAAAAAYYYYY inside the molex connectors), but was able to get everything working as advertised. Thanks for the hardwork putting a guide together.
 
1 - 20 of 156 Posts
Top