Have you disconnected the things you added to audio to see if that corrects your issue? What did you all add...can't be just a sub-woofer?

 

No, I havent disconnected it yet! I did replace the front and rear door speakers. For the compact subwoofer(powered version with amp in the subwoofer enclosure), you just tap into any speaker feed to a line output converter device and then to the subwoofer, so that is the only "added" item. I find it hard to believe after 2 years...that the subwoofer "damaged" the infotainment system via a speaker wire?? Surely the door speakers would not be an issue as well??

 

I would call GM at this point and create a case (Customer Assistance Center number on this page). Mention what the dealer did, see what they suggest. Now if just your left speaker wasn't working, I can see how they could deny it, but no sound at all from tapping a single speaker wire....they were just looking for an excuse.

 

Thank you for that info!! I am at sort of a loss of how to proceed, so that is a great idea. I will keep you posted on the results!! They also told me at the dealer, for the next steps it would be an involved diagnosis, that would cost me upwards of $400 for the next diagnosis??

 

You need to put all the factory components back in, before you submit it again.

 

Yes, I didn't take anything out...but I am removing any wires I installed before taking it for the next appointment for sure!! Actually I did take the factory speakers out, but they are long gone, and there is no way I am removing the door panels again. If they want to go to that length to check on the problem...then so be it!! I would be shocked if anyone told me the new speakers caused an issue!! I got burned on the first visit because they never told me what it was going to cost until after the work was done (software update) so I will be clear on the next visit that I am not authorizing any out of pocket expenses without my approval!!

 

Finally got the fix!!!!! I completely removed all traces of my powered subwoofer and scheduled an appt at a different dealership. First visit, and they said the radio was bad and it would be replaced under warranty. After installing new radio, same thing happened and no sound. So they look a little deeper and found that the right rear door speaker was grounding out somehow after it was replaced. I had replaced all 4 door speakers immediately after buying the new truck. The dealer said I still killed my radio warranty, but was kind enough to bill the diagnostic under warranty somehow. When they removed the speaker, the sound returned to the front dash tweeters, but no where else. I took it home and took the door panels off. The right rear speaker bracket adapter from Crutchfield was cracked, so that is why the wires were getting grounded. I epoxied the bracket over night, and then replaced in morning. Now I had sound on the dash and rear doors, but no front door. I removed the front door speaker, and the wire was bent at a 90 and cracked off the speaker post!! After replacing the wire I had sound on all 6 speakers with my old radio (they woundn't leave the new one in since I killed the warranty with the new speakers...dumb I know! So all of this boiled down to wiring issues and the system appears to only work if everything is connected properly (if one side is bad, you get no sound on the other, both have to be connected to complete the circuit)
So now problem number 2!! My driver side door will not open. I am 99% sure I reattached everything properly when replacing the door panel, you can hear the cable moving when you pull on the inside latch. It worked fine yesterday and this morning when i ran an errand, but then at the store I had to climb thru the passenger side when it first happened I tried the outside latch, locking and unlocking with the fob, the actual key and nothing inside or outside handle will not open the door?
You can't take the panel off with the door closed, so I can't get to the lock that way?
Anyone have any ideas??

 

Finally got the fix!!!!! I completely removed all traces of my powered subwoofer and scheduled an appt at a different dealership. First visit, and they said the radio was bad and it would be replaced under warranty. After installing new radio, same thing happened and no sound. So they look a little deeper and found that the right rear door speaker was grounding out somehow after it was replaced. I had replaced all 4 door speakers immediately after buying the new truck. The dealer said I still killed my radio warranty, but was kind enough to bill the diagnostic under warranty somehow. When they removed the speaker, the sound returned to the front dash tweeters, but no where else. I took it home and took the door panels off. The right rear speaker bracket adapter from Crutchfield was cracked, so that is why the wires were getting grounded. I epoxied the bracket over night, and then replaced in morning. Now I had sound on the dash and rear doors, but no front door. I removed the front door speaker, and the wire was bent at a 90 and cracked off the speaker post!! After replacing the wire I had sound on all 6 speakers with my old radio (they woundn't leave the new one in since I killed the warranty with the new speakers...dumb I know! So all of this boiled down to wiring issues and the system appears to only work if everything is connected properly (if one side is bad, you get no sound on the other, both have to be connected to complete the circuit)
So now problem number 2!! My driver side door will not open. I am 99% sure I reattached everything properly when replacing the door panel, you can hear the cable moving when you pull on the inside latch. It worked fine yesterday and this morning when i ran an errand, but then at the store I had to climb thru the passenger side when it first happened I tried the outside latch, locking and unlocking with the fob, the actual key and nothing inside or outside handle will not open the door?
You can't take the panel off with the door closed, so I can't get to the lock that way?
Anyone have any ideas??

How about if you remove the panel that the switches are in? Any help there?
I think doors nowadays are made in a way to defeat the ol' slim jim. You could always call and ask a lockout place.
Are you sure you can't get the panel off?

 

Call a door opening service, you know the guys AAA calls to open a keys lock inside. Or a slim jim but that has risks with air bags. The pro's know where not to stick the tools to trip the door latch to open the door and then you can get the door panel of and find out what you missed.
I have not been inside the doors yet to be of more help. you may want to look at youtube video's of door panel removal to remind you what you may have missed when you were last in there.
Lick

 

Call a door opening service, you know the guys AAA calls to open a keys lock inside. Or a slim jim but that has risks with air bags. The pro's know where not to stick the tools to trip the door latch to open the door and then you can get the door panel of and find out what you missed.
I have not been inside the doors yet to be of more help. you may want to look at youtube video's of door panel removal to remind you what you may have missed when you were last in there.
Lick

Thanks for the info. The last time I had that, they just opened it enough to press the unlock button when the keys were locked in. Do they still use the slim jims to actually move the mechanism?

 

I can't say it has been years since I did training on it. They probably do it that way to avoid air bag risks. A good tech should have the tools to get a hold of the unlatch lever and pull or push it to open the door.
Unless these latches are like the old Honda door latches, the arm was plastic and they would break. What a PIA.
Some times you can roll the window down and look thru the top and see the latch and the linkage, on a newer rig it will be really a small area to look into. The pros have a trick chrome tool to hold open the gap and increase the light inside the door. Hum maybe an otoscope on a cell phone. A flexible camera attachment.
Luck