[F8LZ71]

The OEM ZR2 Rear Skid and transfer case skid @ssm1tty sent me showed up so I got those installed. The ZR2 rear skid replaces the smaller OEM steering rack skid. Because the ZR2 rear skid doesn't have welded nuts on the plate like the OEM steering rack skid does I removed the OEM front plastic "skid" until I can find a deal on a real front skid (ZR2, GM non-ZR2 or Superskidz). Stoked to have some protection and all it cost me was a beer for the homie.

The ZR2 rear skid and the transfer case skid bolted up directly to factory predrilled holes in the crossmember but there are not welded nuts on the back side of the holes. There didn't appear to be threads in the crossmember either but with a little pressure the bolts "thread" into place and feel pretty secure. For added security I would recommend adding 3/8" nuts on the end of the bolts despite the original "armor" on my Canyon not having any. The OEM steering rack skid bolted into the crossmember with no nuts on the backside so maybe that's good enough? *shrug*

Frontal view of the ZR2 rear skid installed without the factory front plastic skid in place.

I finally got around to mounting the Maxsa Escaper Buddy traction boards. These are very similar to the popular Maxsa boards but cost half as much. I couldn't make up my mind on a mounting design so I said screw it (literally). I bought some basic hardware: (2) 3/8"x6" bolts, (4) washers, (4) lock washers, (2) 3/8 nuts and (2) plastic star knobs. I drilled 2 holes through the side bar on my rack and 2 holes trough the Maxsa boards. It's sturdy enough but I am concerned about the star knobs backing off so I added a lock nut on each end until I can find nicer black bolts and lock nut. Ghetto for sure but it works for now. I'll add a Python lock to make them less enticing for opportunistic thieves.

The mounting bolts secured to the steel side bar of my rack. I noticed when shutting my door the boards rattle against the rack which means the side bar is flexing too much. I'll get some support welded in to reduce flex and stop the rattle.

Backside view with boards mounted

Front view of boards mounted

 

[F8LZ71]

Got the tent mounted up for some camping trips/races coming up. We ran over to Mammoth Lakes, CA this weekend so my fiance' could get some practice runs in before next weekend's race. The kid, the dog and I went exploring while she rode the park. The lift helped a little with the heavy load but the back still sags more than I would like so I'll likely order the Autospring add-a-leaf kit to bring the rear up another inch or inch and a half.


These photos were taken with the bed empty and the rear still sits too low for my liking.

A couple shots from Sunday's wheeling trip on Signal Peak Trail, CA

Dented and scratched the Tyger step bars a little but they are still attached and no body damage occurred.

Why I won't buy expensive wheels for my trucks.

 

[F8LZ71]

We have a few trips coming up so I reinstalled the air dam with reversed clips. It's super easy to install/remove once the clips are reversed. It takes a couple of minutes at most.

I also reinstalled the OEM front plastic "skid". I have the ZR2 oil pan skid installed right now and there are no holes for the front skid to bolt to so I added two rivnuts (Harbor Freight tool) to the ZR2 skid and bolted the front skid into place. Pretty simple really. I spent most of the time trying to figure out which size drill bit I needed to use to make holes for the 1/4" rivnuts.... I'm not sure if this will help aerodynamics or cooling but it was easy to install and looks better than without it. Eventually I'll get a steel front skid to replace it.

Two 1/4 rivnuts installed in the ZR2 oil pan or "rear" plate.

OEM front "skid" reinstalled

 

[F8LZ71]

We have a few trips coming up so I reinstalled the air dam with reversed clips. It's super easy to install/remove once the clips are reversed. It takes a couple of minutes at most.

I also reinstalled the OEM front plastic "skid". I have the ZR2 oil pan skid installed right now and there are no holes for the front skid to bolt to so I added two rivnuts (Harbor Freight tool) to the ZR2 skid and bolted the front skid into place. Pretty simple really. I spent most of the time trying to figure out which size drill bit I needed to use to make holes for the 1/4" rivnuts.... I'm not sure if this will help aerodynamics or cooling but it was easy to install and looks better than without it. Eventually I'll get a steel front skid to replace it.

Two 1/4 rivnuts installed in the ZR2 oil pan or "rear" plate.

OEM front plastic "skid" reinstalled

 

['05TJLWBRUBY]

Really nice clean build. Where did you find your recovery boards? I've used Maxtracks before with great success, they're invaluable when you are in certain situations but like you said- set of 4 adds up quick.

Best of Luck,

Mike

 

[F8LZ71]

Really nice clean build. Where did you find your recovery boards? I've used Maxtracks before with great success, they're invaluable when you are in certain situations but like you said- set of 4 adds up quick.

Best of Luck,

Mike

Thanks Mike!

I got the boards off Amazon.

A lot of people run the X-Bull boards and haven't had any problems. They can be found for as little as $65 sometimes. I usually see them for $89.

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Escaper-Traction-Off-Road-Extraction-20333/dp/B00AV2HONS[/ame]

 

[4x4x4doors]

Nice. I realize that everyone's "perfect" setup is different than everyone else's and also that not everything can be on top and in front in storage.

One thing I've done differently than you is location of the fire extinguisher. I've emptied a couple of them over the years on others' vehicles, not mine. I put mine on the driver's side of the rear seat in the cubby where you have gloves stashed. My figuring is that a fire extinguisher that requires raising the seat to access will undoubtedly be under a rear seat piled with stuff or people when I want to get to it.

Just a thought.

I'll continue watching your progress and adventures.

 

[F8LZ71]

Nice. I realize that everyone's "perfect" setup is different than everyone else's and also that not everything can be on top and in front in storage.

One thing I've done differently than you is location of the fire extinguisher. I've emptied a couple of them over the years on others' vehicles, not mine. I put mine on the driver's side of the rear seat in the cubby where you have gloves stashed. My figuring is that a fire extinguisher that requires raising the seat to access will undoubtedly be under a rear seat piled with stuff or people when I want to get to it.

Just a thought.

I'll continue watching your progress and adventures.

Thanks and good tip. I would need to make a mount of some sort I think. The extinguisher seems too long for that cubby but I'll check. That would be a much better spot for it. When on the trail I simply place it in one of the water bottle pouches on the seat back but I don't like that because it cause the whole unit to bow outward. Besides, you never know when it will be needed on or off-road so better to have it within easy reach at all times.

 

[F8LZ71]

I installed the AutoSprings add-a-leafs (1" to 1.5") today. It's pretty straightforward. I had a little trouble getting the new longer bolts in place and managed to punch myself in the face HARD when a wrench slipped off the shock bolt. My nose didn't bleed because I was already lying down so #winning . I somehow ended up with a blood blister under my thumbnail as a result of some other part that didn't want to play nicely.

My main reason for this mod was to reduce the amount of rear sag when fully loaded for camping. Besides making the truck appear unbalanced I hate having to re-aim my headlights every time I want to load the truck up and I certainly don't like blinding oncoming drivers if I don't re-aim them.

Here it is with the RTT, Maxsa boards and a full tank of gas on level ground.

Suspension Mods: Eibach 2.7" front, 1" Silverado blocks and AutoSpring Add-a-leafs with 32" tires.

Passenger Rear: 39 1/2"
Driver Rear: 39 1/4"
*Measured from ground through center of wheel to bottom of fender

It doesn't appear quite so raked in person but if it looks out of control without the added weight of the rack-mounted gear then I can easily remove the 1" blocks to tame it a bit. I anticipate the rear to pop up another 1" when I remove the rack and tent which is how it sits for 1/2 the year.

 

[F8LZ71]

I've been driving around with all of the gear removed from the bed as well as fully loaded down with camping gear and bikes. The AALs really help with reducing rear squat and on road the ride quality hasn't suffered. However, the off-road ride quality took a dive. I was pretty sure it would so it's not really a surprise. The biggest issue stems from running the OEM rear shocks with a 2"+ lift. The shocks are overextending when a rear wheel drops into a hole or off even small ledges which results in a loud bang and a rough ride. Again, I expected this so...

I'm deciding which rear shock I want to run to fix this problem and provide a softer and more controlled ride. I'm considering sticking with Eibach or going with Fox 2.0 but using the Silverado shock which is longer so it work with my lift and offers more dampening to handle the extra weight I carry.

 

[nubbins]

How about an Icon kit? And maybe some UCAs too since you've been rocking 2"+ for some time now......dunno but anything over 2" makes me queasy about the uppers. ****'s expensive here but down there the price difference is smaller.

The Icons will get you that 2-3" lift and a better 2.5" coilover too right out the gate. And even the 2.0 rears are 0-2", no need for Silvie rears (Fox's web designers really need to get their **** together, the website is a mess, conflicting information everywhere, blank pages for our twins, our install guide is missing, etc.).

 

[F8LZ71]

How about an Icon kit? And maybe some UCAs too since you've been rocking 2"+ for some time now......dunno but anything over 2" makes me queasy about the uppers. ****'s expensive here but down there the price difference is smaller.

The Icons will get you that 2-3" lift and a better 2.5" coilover too right out the gate. And even the 2.0 rears are 0-2", no need for Silvie rears (Fox's web designers really need to get their **** together, the website is a mess, conflicting information everywhere, blank pages for our twins, our install guide is missing, etc.).

Icons cost too much. I don't need reservoirs and the front actually feels ok for a budget kit so I'll rock the Eibachs for a while. The rear is where I need help and I'd prefer a more linear shock to help reduce low speed and small bump roughness which is why I was looking at Fox. The Icons are digressive sorta and that scares me.

 

[blurple_colorado]

I've been driving around with all of the gear removed from the bed as well as fully loaded down with camping gear and bikes. The AALs really help with reducing rear squat and on road the ride quality hasn't suffered. However, the off-road ride quality took a dive. I was pretty sure it would so it's not really a surprise. The biggest issue stems from running the OEM rear shocks with a 2"+ lift. The shocks are overextending when a rear wheel drops into a hole or off even small ledges which results in a loud bang and a rough ride. Again, I expected this so...

I'm deciding which rear shock I want to run to fix this problem and provide a softer and more controlled ride. I'm considering sticking with Eibach or going with Fox 2.0 but using the Silverado shock which is longer so it work with my lift and offers more dampening to handle the extra weight I carry.

Love the whole setup ou got going on in this pic! Jealous!

 

[F8LZ71]

Love the whole setup ou got going on in this pic! Jealous!

Thanks buddy!

 

[F8LZ71]

How about an Icon kit? And maybe some UCAs too since you've been rocking 2"+ for some time now......dunno but anything over 2" makes me queasy about the uppers. ****'s expensive here but down there the price difference is smaller.

The Icons will get you that 2-3" lift and a better 2.5" coilover too right out the gate. And even the 2.0 rears are 0-2", no need for Silvie rears (Fox's web designers really need to get their **** together, the website is a mess, conflicting information everywhere, blank pages for our twins, our install guide is missing, etc.).

I took another look at the Icons and found out they are linear on compression and digressive on rebound which would work pretty well for me and like you said, they are rated for 0"-2" of lift. Cost isn't much more than Fox 2.0s. I'll likely pull the trigger on the Icon 2.0 rears tomorrow.

 

[ziegs]

Having the rack, tent, and 4 bikes and sitting level is impressive! Are you on stock rear shocks or the eibachs? It’s a shame to hear the ride dipped with the AAL, just did 100+ fire rd miles on Bilstein’s/block and current set it rides so great but installing the auto springs aal this week.. If you are on the stock shocks for the bang/buck the Bilstein or eibach rear could be worth a shock.

 

[nubbins]

I took another look at the Icons and found out they are linear on compression and digressive on rebound which would work pretty well for me and like you said, they are rated for 0"-2" of lift. Cost isn't much more than Fox 2.0s. I'll likely pull the trigger on the Icon 2.0 rears tomorrow.

Back in the day, I entered the shock game without fully understanding everything first. I had Bilstein 5100s on the rear for a little while before I actually read about digressive, progressive and linear valving. They were just fine. When a truck is heavily loaded, chances are all shocks will ride softer - when you weigh down the back of a pickup truck, it's just going to be a comfier ride. I didn't notice much of a difference between hauling a few hundred to a thousand pounds of tiles with stock shocks versus the Bilstein 5100s, but empty, the difference was night and day.

Rear shocks are usually really cheap (save for piggyback and remotes), so there's considerable flexibility to experiment. And I would personally not bet on 1500 Fox 2.0s providing 2" of rear lift on the word of some Fox internet/phone rep somewhere until they update their official documentation.

 

[F8LZ71]

Back in the day, I entered the shock game without fully understanding everything first. I had Bilstein 5100s on the rear for a little while before I actually read about digressive, progressive and linear valving. They were just fine. When a truck is heavily loaded, chances are all shocks will ride softer - when you weigh down the back of a pickup truck, it's just going to be a comfier ride. I didn't notice much of a difference between hauling a few hundred to a thousand pounds of tiles with stock shocks versus the Bilstein 5100s, but empty, the difference was night and day.

Rear shocks are usually really cheap (save for piggyback and remotes), so there's considerable flexibility to experiment. And I would personally not bet on 1500 Fox 2.0s providing 2" of rear lift on the word of some Fox internet/phone rep somewhere until they update their official documentation.

For sure. The other factor I considered is the Icon coilovers can go up to 3" and are 2.5 bodies. I would rather keep the same valving style and tuning front to rear althoughmany have mixed them up and say they can't tell a difference.

 

[F8LZ71]

I called up Wayne at RealTruck.com and he gave me the CF member price. With the price break it was worth it to get the Icons over the Fox and Eibachs. I eventually want to buy the Icon VS 2.5 Coilovers as well and have the matching tuned package. Thanks to @nubbins for the reminder to look at the Icons and thank to @Chris@RealTruck for his contributions to the forum.

Here's what I bought: ICON 2.0 ALUMINUM SMOOTH BODY SHOCK 76550

 

[F8LZ71]

The Icon 2.0 rears showed up today and it didn't take long to get them on.

I had planned on measuring droop before and after but my jackstands are not tall enough to let the axle droop much with the wheels on and I'm too exhausted to remove and reinstall them. What I did find is the OEM shocks are near maxed out with the truck sitting on the ground. No wonder the ride was rough whenever the rear wheels wanted to drop. Note, I have 1" Silverado lift blocks and AutoSpring AALs so I have around 2" of lift in the rear.

This is the OEM shock with the truck on jackstands but the tires are resting on the ground lightly.

Same as above but with the Icon shock

OEM vs. Icon 2.0 shock length comparison. The Icons are designed for 0"-2" of lift. Most other shocks are only 0"-1".

Installed

I'm a little concerned about their comment in the instructions about needing a crush washer or sleeve if the OEM shock uses a through bolt. Does this look right?

After I buttoned things up and took it for a test drive I fully expected the ride to be harsh after reading all the posts from anti-Icon folks but the shocks felt great. The ride felt more solid and damped in the rear. Small bumps could still be felt but they were more muted, less sharp and the axle didn't feel like it was ready to explode upwards when the rear tire dropped off bumps. This was a very short test drive so I'm not sure if all of this will remain true but for now I am impressed and happy with the purchase.