[blurple_colorado]

You ever find/fix your front end clunking?

 

[F8LZ71]

You ever find/fix your front end clunking?

Not yet. I'm thinking it's not directly realated to the suspension.

Speaking of suspension, flying down fire/logging roads at 35mph+ is awesome! Haha

 

[Chris@RealTruck]

.....after reading all the posts from anti-Icon folks but the shocks felt great.

Who's that? lol. Don't believe the haters. Icons are nice. I wish they had more spring rate options but oh well!

 

[Detroit]

Nice build thread. I like it.

 

[nubbins]

Now throw those Eibachs away and get a set of Icon 2.5s for the front. > I can't wait until my Fox kit arrives; saw a JKU heading back on I-605 today, with piggyback Fox 2.5s and a fat Fox sticker on the rear axle, as if to say "hey, you should go nag TDot for an update on your order".

I like that the pics are always nice and crisp in here.

 

[F8LZ71]

Who's that? lol. Don't believe the haters. Icons are nice. I wish they had more spring rate options but oh well!

Mostly folks on the Tacoma forum. They REALLY love King and Fox stuff.

Nice build thread. I like it.

Thanks!

Now throw those Eibachs away and get a set of Icon 2.5s for the front. > I can't wait until my Fox kit arrives; saw a JKU heading back on I-605 today, with piggyback Fox 2.5s and a fat Fox sticker on the rear axle, as if to say "hey, you should go nag TDot for an update on your order".

I like that the pics are always nice and crisp in here.

Haha man if only. I just put them on a couple of months ago. I need to let me credit card cool off.

2.5s for the front are the way to go but I don't need external reservoirs so that pretty much leaves Icons as my only choice. Especially if you want more than 2" of lift. I'd consider dropping down to 2" to gain more travel but then I'd have to get 285/70/17s to get some ground clearance back.

 

[Chris@RealTruck]

Mostly folks on the Tacoma forum. They REALLY love King and Fox stuff.

LOL. The Tacoma guys are probably the single largest consumer of Icon products out there. Pay no mind.

 

[maxwell_hau5_caffy]

Haha man if only. I just put them on a couple of months ago. I need to let me credit card cool off.

2.5s for the front are the way to go but I don't need external reservoirs so that pretty much leaves Icons as my only choice. Especially if you want more than 2" of lift. I'd consider dropping down to 2" to gain more travel but then I'd have to get 285/70/17s to get some ground clearance back.

Peak suspension, which should be out early 2019 will be a step up from eibach and not have a remote resi.

Also, DONT THROW THEM AWAY, GIVE THEM TO MEEEEEEE! :grin2:

 

[F8LZ71]

In preparation for mounting 285/70/17s tomorrow I did a little wheel well trimming and liner modification. I'm not sure if I made enough room but it should allow me to drive home. I'm bringing an angle grinder and tools with me just in case....

Instead of cutting out the waffle in front of the tire I decided to make new holes in the bumper cover sorta like @White016 did except I just drilled my pilot hole from the top down instead of possibly branding myself with a hot hire, which is a genious idea btw. I didn't want to cut the waffle and use zip ties if I don't have to.

I botched the driver side pinch weld cut. The pinch weld cut is clean but I tried yo cut the plastic trim piece with a razor and slipped so I cut waaay too much off and now a good 1"+ of the pinch weld is showing. I also broke one of the little white clips that holds the trim tight aginst the body *sigh*. On the passenger side I just used the angle grinder to cut it all off without removing the trim piece. It came at super clean and was very fast. If the tire clears I'll add the actual procedure and more photos to my build page for reference. Anyone happen to know the part numbers for those plastic clips and the plastic trim covers? lol

A view from underneath so you can see how far forward I was able to move the waffle.

To get the waffle that far forward you need to trim a small pice off the waffle. It pushes against the bumper cover and stops forward movement.

And a small piece of the inner bumper cover. Allows clearance for that bump on the waffle.

Once those pieces are trimmed you can push the waffle forward and drill new mounting holes into the lower part of the bumper cover. This is where I kinda just guessed really well and drilled the first hole in the right place. Once you get one side screwed in to hold the waffle in place you can drill the others from the top, through the metal clips. I'm sure there is a much better way to do this but I'm kinda of a hack and it would be out of character for me to do it a logical way.

I added around 1" to 1 1/4 of clearance I think.

The passenger side trimmed pinch weld - Good

The driver's side trimmed pinch weld - WTF???

 

[F8LZ71]

Got the 33s put on today at America's Tire. I bought them during the Discount Tire Direct eBay $100-$200 sale for $592 shipped. They look pretty rad but you can definitely feel the weight in the steering wheel and the way the suspension behaves. It's not as spritely off the line either. It's all about tradeoffs though. My fender clearancing work made them fit perfectly but the OEM wheel offset is what's hurting me right now in the form of tire rub on the swaybar and the frame. So now I'm combing through the forum looking for an easy fix that doesn't involve new wheels or thick wheel spacers.

For anyone following my build for ideas, plans or inspiration I just want to say for a hassle-free build I would stop at the 265/70/17 or 255/75/17 tire size. The 31.7"-32.1" diameter and 10" (255-265) and under width will fit easily and not cause any problems that require other mods/parts to correct. They also don't cause a big change in shifting patterns nor do you suffer big loss in acceleration, suspension feel, braking etc.. I'm not saying I dislike my new 33s but off all the tires I've owned this is where I noticed the biggest difference in how the truck behaves and it's a not in a good way. So for those who want a cool looking truck minus headaches stay at 32" and below in a 255 or 265 width. If you don't mind the extra work required to fit larger tires, plan on new wheels with less offset (or spacers) and are open to getting a custom tune to fix any driveability issues then by all means, mod on!

She finally looks the way I want though! I may not even need the fender flares. I have all the bed-mounted gear off for furniture hauling duties.

I chose to mount them with the raised lettering facing out. Looks more aggressive to me although most people mount them smooth side out.

 

[nubbins]

Oh my god, those 285s look sick. And I thought you swore off AT3Ws? Or was that just LT-size.

Talking about coincidences, I just picked up my 265/75R16 AT3Ws from the shop today and brought them home in anticipation of RFBing them next Friday. Man, the sidewalls are crazy......and that's coming from someone who used to rock LT265/70R17E Duratracs.

Hauled them in the Silverado, no less. The asshats really need to give my truck back, makes me hurt just thinking about it sitting out in the PNW rain for the last month. My service advisor left and the current guy had the audacity to tell me that the parts were all sitting in a pile on the bench......which I knew, as 0.00 actual work had been done over the last 14 days.

Now, to hold my breath and hope that blurple was right saying that 265/75R16 won't rub at stock height.

 

[F8LZ71]

Oh my god, those 285s look sick. And I thought you swore off AT3Ws? Or was that just LT-size.

Talking about coincidences, I just picked up my 265/75R16 AT3Ws from the shop today and brought them home in anticipation of RFBing them next Friday. Man, the sidewalls are crazy......and that's coming from someone who used to rock LT265/70R17E Duratracs.

Hauled them in the Silverado, no less. The asshats really need to give my truck back, makes me hurt just thinking about it sitting out in the PNW rain for the last month. My service advisor left and the current guy had the audacity to tell me that the parts were all sitting in a pile on the bench......which I knew, as 0.00 actual work had been done over the last 14 days.

Now, to hold my breath and hope that blurple was right saying that 265/75R16 won't rub at stock height.

Right? If they didn't look so damn good I wouldn't still be awake doing research and ordering spacers. I'd just return the tires for something smaller but nope. I went this far and there's no going back now..... >

I only swore off the LT tires. I really like the appearance, price and reviews on the Wildpeak and I found a way to make it work by getting the P-metric version. The UPS driver came up to my office and asked if I wanted them up there or in my car. They look so beefy he didn't to have to carry them all the way up. When he pulled one out of the truck I was like ohh damn. **** just got real up in here. lol

Those tires are going to look great on your truck man! Be like me and put the raised lettering out. :nerd: That is after you finally get it back.

 

['05TJLWBRUBY]

Boy it's amazing what a little more tire does. That looks great!

Best of Luck,

Mike

 

[F8LZ71]

Boy it's amazing what a little more tire does. That looks great!

Best of Luck,

Mike

Indeed! It took the truck to a higher level. Literally. :grin2:

I did some looking around with the wheels turned this way and that and the majority of the rubbing is on the passenger side sway bar and the drivers side frame. On the passenger side the tire barely nicks the frame and on the drivers side the tire doesn't even touch the sway bar. Mmm The tires do not touch and other part of the suspension or wheel well. The rubbing occurs just before full lock so it's bad enough to cause some binding if you try to go full lock. It's sooo close to being tolerable. The 1.25" spacers will be here Monday so we'll see how it goes. I'm really digging these tires.

 

[blurple_colorado]

Got the 33s put on today. They look pretty rad but you can definitely feel the weight in the steering wheel and the way the suspension behaves. It's not as spritely off the line either. It's all about tradeoffs though. My fender clearancing work made them fit perfectly but the OEM wheel offset is what's hurting me right now in the form of tire rub on the swaybar and the frame. So now I'm combing through the forum looking for an easy fix that doesn't involve new wheels or thick wheel spacers.

For anyone following my build for ideas, plans or inspiration I just want to say for a hassle-free build I would stop at the 265/70/17 or 255/75/17 tire size. The 31.7"-32.1" diameter and 10" (255-265) and under width will fit easily and not cause any problems that require other mods/parts to correct. They also don't cause a big change in shifting patterns nor do you suffer big loss in acceleration, suspension feel, braking etc.. I'm not saying I dislike my new 33s but off all the tires I've owned this is where I noticed the biggest difference in how the truck behaves and it's a not in a good way. So for those who want a cool looking truck minus headaches stay at 32" and below in a 255 or 265 width. If you don't mind the extra work required to fit larger tires, plan on new wheels with less offset (or spacers) and are open to getting a custom tune to fix any driveability issues then by all means, mod on!

She finally looks the way I want though! I may not even need the fender flares. I have all the bed-mounted gear off for furniture hauling duties.

I chose to mount them with the raised lettering facing out. Looks more aggressive to me although most people mount them smooth side out.

Looks awesome man! Try and keep the stock wheels makes the trucks look better. IMO

Oh my god, those 285s look sick. And I thought you swore off AT3Ws? Or was that just LT-size.

Talking about coincidences, I just picked up my 265/75R16 AT3Ws from the shop today and brought them home in anticipation of RFBing them next Friday. Man, the sidewalls are crazy......and that's coming from someone who used to rock LT265/70R17E Duratracs.

Hauled them in the Silverado, no less. The asshats really need to give my truck back, makes me hurt just thinking about it sitting out in the PNW rain for the last month. My service advisor left and the current guy had the audacity to tell me that the parts were all sitting in a pile on the bench......which I knew, as 0.00 actual work had been done over the last 14 days.

Now, to hold my breath and hope that blurple was right saying that 265/75R16 won't rub at stock height.

You will be fine. The LT Duratracs are a way more aggressive tread then the AT3Ws.

 

[jro46]

Got the 33s put on today. They look pretty rad but you can definitely feel the weight in the steering wheel and the way the suspension behaves. It's not as spritely off the line either. It's all about tradeoffs though. My fender clearancing work made them fit perfectly but the OEM wheel offset is what's hurting me right now in the form of tire rub on the swaybar and the frame. So now I'm combing through the forum looking for an easy fix that doesn't involve new wheels or thick wheel spacers.

For anyone following my build for ideas, plans or inspiration I just want to say for a hassle-free build I would stop at the 265/70/17 or 255/75/17 tire size. The 31.7"-32.1" diameter and 10" (255-265) and under width will fit easily and not cause any problems that require other mods/parts to correct. They also don't cause a big change in shifting patterns nor do you suffer big loss in acceleration, suspension feel, braking etc.. I'm not saying I dislike my new 33s but off all the tires I've owned this is where I noticed the biggest difference in how the truck behaves and it's a not in a good way. So for those who want a cool looking truck minus headaches stay at 32" and below in a 255 or 265 width. If you don't mind the extra work required to fit larger tires, plan on new wheels with less offset (or spacers) and are open to getting a custom tune to fix any driveability issues then by all means, mod on!

She finally looks the way I want though! I may not even need the fender flares. I have all the bed-mounted gear off for furniture hauling duties.

I chose to mount them with the raised lettering facing out. Looks more aggressive to me although most people mount them smooth side out.

Looks great! Really make me want to pull the trigger on this set up.

Definitely interested in what you find to fix the rubbing on the swaybar.

 

[MrMileHighGuy]

When you had mentioned the AT3Ws you had on your work truck colorado were LT rated and you had a bad impression and review on them, do you know if they were C D or E rated? I had E rated 265/75/16 duratracs on my old 3rd gen 4runner and currently have 285/70/17 D rated duractracs on my 4th gen 4runner with full icon suspension front and rear. With both trucks I couldn't not tell one bit or notice the tires felt heavy, rough, sluggish, etc.

The reason I ask is I would like to get these Wildpeak AT3W eventually and like the idea of a lighter P rated 4 ply tire but also like the protection and insurance by going with a C or D rated tire. I'm leaning toward either 275/70/17 because it comes C rated and it would be as difficult to fit as you mentioned with the 285. If i go with the 265/70/17 only options are E which is likely more than I need or the SL (P) which in most cases will be fine but may lack offroad protection.

 

[F8LZ71]

Looks awesome man! Try and keep the stock wheels makes the trucks look better. IMO



You will be fine. The LT Duratracs are a way more aggressive tread then the AT3Ws.

Thanks bro! I missed my All-Terrain wheels but these have grown on me in an OEM+ build kinda way. Plus I can scratch the **** out of them on the trail and #don'tcare >

Looks great! Really make me want to pull the trigger on this set up.

Definitely interested in what you find to fix the rubbing on the swaybar.

Thanks! The 33s really do make the build but I bet you could do a 275/70/17 C (32.4" vs. 32.8") and it would look so close most people wouldn't be able to see the difference. As for the sway bar, the area the tire makes contact with is on the middle to rearward part of the bar when viewed from the wheel well opening and looking in towards the engine. This makes me think that the Icon sway bar relocation bracket may help with clearance because it pushes the sway bar towards the front of the truck a little. I can't find the numbers but it looks like 1/2" to 3"/4" of forward movement. That would either eliminate tire rub or reduce it such that the tire just nicks the bar instead of hitting it dead center. I'm all good with the tire nicking. I had that with my '16 on 2" RC lift and 265/70/17 Duratracs. After 30k miles no damage to the tire or frame so the tiny bit of rub was tolerable.

I don't see any way to stop frame rub without wheel spacers. It shouldn't take much, maybe 1/2" to 3/4" but the Bora spacers require cutting down your lugs if you go below 1.25" so what seems like an easy if expensive fix is not quite so easy and requires some comprimises unless you're ok with wheels poking out of the fender.

So I'd give the 275/70/17s some thought. I'll report back with the wheel spacer install sometime next week.

 

[F8LZ71]

When you had mentioned the AT3Ws you had on your work truck colorado were LT rated and you had a bad impression and review on them, do you know if they were C D or E rated? I had E rated 265/75/16 duratracs on my old 3rd gen 4runner and currently have 285/70/17 D rated duractracs on my 4th gen 4runner with full icon suspension front and rear. With both trucks I couldn't not tell one bit or notice the tires felt heavy, rough, sluggish, etc.

The reason I ask is I would like to get these Wildpeak AT3W eventually and like the idea of a lighter P rated 4 ply tire but also like the protection and insurance by going with a C or D rated tire. I'm leaning toward either 275/70/17 because it comes C rated and it would be as difficult to fit as you mentioned with the 285. If i go with the 265/70/17 only options are E which is likely more than I need or the SL (P) which in most cases will be fine but may lack offroad protection.

You posted while I was posting. See my comment below regarding the 275/70/17 C.

The AT3W I tried out on the work truck was an E. I honestly didn't notice it being sluggish or feeling abnormally heavy. At about 38psi (35psi on the dash readout) they rode smooth and quiet, moreso than the ATP P-metric that I replaced them with. The steering response wasn't quite as sharp as the OEM tire or the Cooper but it wasn't Duratrac mushy either. It's only when I took it on the freeway that I became concerned because the truck was darting left and right like the steering rack was loose. I then tried many different air pressure levels to see if pressure was the problem and that's when I experience the horrendous harsh ride the Es can produce if you air them up over 45psi. At 50psi the truck literally started rattling and sounding like a truck with 300,000 miles of washboard road driving and this was on nice paved roads! I'm no stranger to overinflating tires. I used to run max sidewall pressure on my Prius back in the day but this was different.

After spending quite a bit of time researching LT tires on other forums (4Runner, Tacoma, F150, etc) I found that some LT tires, the AT3W included, can drive a little squirrely at highway speeds for the first few hundred miles and then they break in and settle down. If I had known this before I probably woukd have just swapped my tires onto the work truck and broke the AT3Ws in myself. I also found out most people in lighter vehicles don't follow the Load Index Chart pressures. Instead they run much lower pressures to soften the right despite that fact they are not meeting the OEM load requirements. I didn't want to risk my staff by not following the industry recommendations which for the 265/70/17 AT3W E would have been between 43psi and 45psi. That pressure made the truck ride too harsh for my liking so that's why I ditched the Es.

Now, if that were my vehicle I probably would have just kept the tires for a week or 2 and experimented! :grin2:

So I think the 275/70/17 C is a very good balance between max height, durability, ride quality, good looks and ease of install. I only wish it was a little lighter. It's very close to the E in weight.

 

[F8LZ71]

But dem 33s be up in yo face sexy tho.....

I was working in the field today but couldn't stop staring at her. lol