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Oil Change #3, NON Dexos 2 oil

This is my 3rd oil change and 2nd run using Mobil Delvac ESP. This is the older PAO based CJ-4 formula no longer sold here. I don't like Dexos 2 and I think it's a $hit specification, which is why I'm not using any "approved" oils.

70% freeway / 30% city. 11,700 miles on truck and 5,300 on oil. Normal driving, sometimes with a payload of less than 1,000 #. Sometimes I take trips to the mountains, switchbacks and steep grades. I use the exhaust brake and manual shift the transmission to engine brake on these drives, about once per month. This is the hardest it’s been driven, no towing yet.

Fueled exclusively with HVO dosed with Stanadyne PF @ 500:1 ratio. Changed oil early this time because I had fuel dilution in my previous UOA.

FD looks like it’s under control now.

Overall the D1 ESP looks like it did really well, however there was some valvetrain noise at start-up which I didn’t like. I tried RLI BioSyn HD SHP 10w40 CJ-4 oil this time. The RLI cSt @ 40c value is about 20% less than D1 ESP and it has a high VI of 172. Valvetrain noise at start-up is virtually eliminated with RLI.

RLI is weird oil, it is about 40% plant based esters blended with PAOs. Even though this 10w40 has a lower viscosity @ 40c and 100c, due to the esters the HTHS value is significantly higher. My hot oil pressure at 65 mph (1750 RPM) is now 48 PSI.
 

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And finally. the 2.8 Duramax isn’t a VM engine. GM made a number of changes to solve multiple shortcomings in the VM A428, including the head and bottom end. GDE called it a “ground up redesign” so it is actually a GM engine.
Just to be clear, it the 2.8l is based on a VM Motori design.

GM did modify it, but it's not at all accurate to consider this thing to be of GM or Isuzu origins.

There is nothing wrong with VM Motori, I just don't know why GM fans get so bent out of shape when they hear that fact.
 
Just to be clear, it the 2.8l is based on a VM Motori design.

GM did modify it, but it's not at all accurate to consider this thing to be of GM or Isuzu origins.

There is nothing wrong with VM Motori, I just don't know why GM fans get so bent out of shape when they hear that fact.
GM redesigned the VM A428 in order to solve a number of it's shortcomings and make it more robust for commercial and truck based applications. It shares the same displacement as the original VM design, but that is where the similarities end. I don't believe any parts whatsoever are interchangeable between the VM A428 and current GM powerplant.

When GM released the XLD25 2.5 Duramax in 2011, it was the first phase of the re-design, but with a smaller bore & stroke. Further enhancements were made when the global market 2.8 LWN engine was released in 2016. Our NA trucks represent a third evolution of this engine with specific changes for emissions.

https://www.dieselworldmag.com/gm/first-look-gms-2-8l-duramax/

I also suspect the new 3.0L Inline 6 LM2 diesel coming in the '19 1500 will be based on a I-6 variation of the original A428 architecture.
 
VM Motori redesigned their 2.8l engine from the ground up for the 2007 model year in European Jeep applications (Called the Panther engine). In 2011, VM came out with the Cheetah 2.8l engine with slight changes to the panther engine like, injectors, piston and a few other minor details. GM licensed the Cheetah engine from VM. GM then changed the turbocharger, changed the balance shafts and went with a Delphi fuel system.

The GM I-6 is loosely based on a 2.0l 4-banger that GM has, but the combustion system has been reworked.
 
VM Motori redesigned their 2.8l engine from the ground up for the 2007 model year in European Jeep applications (Called the Panther engine). In 2011, VM came out with the Cheetah 2.8l engine with slight changes to the panther engine like, injectors, piston and a few other minor details. GM licensed the Cheetah engine from VM. GM then changed the turbocharger, changed the balance shafts and went with a Delphi fuel system.

The GM I-6 is loosely based on a 2.0l 4-banger that GM has, but the combustion system has been reworked.
So basically what I said earlier is correct. The 2.8l "duramax" is based off of a VM Motori design, obviously with some changes made.

I don't think anyone should get defensive about that. The engine seems to have a decent reputation, but it isn't a true Isuzu/GM duramax design.
 
owns 2017 GMC Canyon Denali
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Here is my second oil change, DIC showed 13% remaining. Mostly city driving, some light towing. Castrol Edge 5/30 dexos2 oil.

It's interesting how thick the oil is at change time, it's in the 40wt range. Has anyone else seen this? I'm wondering if it's caused by my driving habits, this specific engine or the oil.

http://www.coloradofans.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=321837&thumb=1
 

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Here is my second oil change, DIC showed 13% remaining. Mostly city driving, some light towing. Castrol Edge 5/30 dexos2 oil.

It's interesting how thick the oil is at change time, it's in the 40wt range. Has anyone else seen this? I'm wondering if it's caused by my driving habits, this specific engine or the oil.

https://www.coloradofans.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=321837&thumb=1
No that thickening is not normal for synthetic oil and only 6500 miles.

Usual causes of oil thinkening:

  • oil oxidation (no TBN or oxidation test done, so ??)
  • coolant contamination
  • High soot accumulation
  • Analytical error

Try a different lab next time who will accurately measure soot, oxidation and TBN so you can narrow down the cause of the thickening.
 
I missed this thread somewhere along the way. Subscribing now. Posting Blackstone results from my third oil change (back in late Feb). Am going to be doing #4 in the next few days. Will be the first change I have done myself on this truck. First 3 were from the dealer. Plan on using Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 and OEM filter. I will also post the results of the analysis once I get it back from Blackstone. I am at about 27.5K miles at the moment, DIC showing 5% oil life.
 

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Total Quartz INEO

Folks,

Thought I'd share the first oil analysis from Blackstone for my truck. This interval contained about 75% highway and 25% city driving including a 300 mile trip with approximately 1700 feet of elevation change towing 5000 pounds. Here are the details for reference:

2018 Z71 CCLB 4x4
First oil change at 2800 miles
6qts Total Quartz INEO 5w30
ACDelco PF2262G

Miles on oil - 7383 mi
Hours on oil - 263.9 Hrs

The current oil being used is Motul 8100 X-clean 5w40. I will be using about the same interval, 7500 miles, and then have that oil checked.

Clever, thanks for the heads up on this thread.

--Matt
 

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Great info! The Total Quartz seems to be a good choice. Sadly I can't find it locally and have ordered it off Amazon. Motul makes a great oil in general, I imagine that will test well also.
 
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for me it seems the more I look into the oil for this engine the worse it gets lol. I have a big background in competition drag race engines. Owned a competition engine shop for many years But really not much of what I know and use is relevant here. Always had large tow rigs with conventional over the road truck type engines. And of course some 1 ton type trucks with early power strokes or Dodge Cummins. And really that's not much help either. I'm not necessarily a heavy viscosity oil guy and like synthetics. I however am not real interested in using an oil that is of an unrealistic cost or difficult to get. I'm not saying I want oil for 2 bucks a quart, I routinely use 10-13 bucks a quart oil. but I believe there should be a reasonable cost and readily available oil. Dexos rating is un-important to me. I have quizzed Clever in other threads and he has shared some good info with me. I feel like I am putting too much brain damage in on this subject LOL. I may be being too hard headed about not using Mobil1. it just wont work in my world but it may just fine in this truck. The factory fill oil had tappet noise at start up before 1500 miles and I live in Florida . I changed it to the Euro Valvoline 5/40 I think it was . that was at about 1800 miles I'm now at 6700 miles and ready to change again. It just started tappet noise again in the morning start up. Its not excessive , but I notice it. It did make it longer then the factory fill though. Clever seems to think a 10/30 is in order and I agree. so I'm still on the search lol. Thanks for posting these reports it is interesting an informative I appreciate it.
 
for me it seems the more I look into the oil for this engine the worse it gets lol. I have a big background in competition drag race engines. Owned a competition engine shop for many years But really not much of what I know and use is relevant here. Always had large tow rigs with conventional over the road truck type engines. And of course some 1 ton type trucks with early power strokes or Dodge Cummins. And really that's not much help either. I'm not necessarily a heavy viscosity oil guy and like synthetics. I however am not real interested in using an oil that is of an unrealistic cost or difficult to get. I'm not saying I want oil for 2 bucks a quart, I routinely use 10-13 bucks a quart oil. but I believe there should be a reasonable cost and readily available oil. Dexos rating is un-important to me. I have quizzed Clever in other threads and he has shared some good info with me. I feel like I am putting too much brain damage in on this subject LOL. I may be being too hard headed about not using Mobil1. it just wont work in my world but it may just fine in this truck. The factory fill oil had tappet noise at start up before 1500 miles and I live in Florida . I changed it to the Euro Valvoline 5/40 I think it was . that was at about 1800 miles I'm now at 6700 miles and ready to change again. It just started tappet noise again in the morning start up. Its not excessive , but I notice it. It did make it longer then the factory fill though. Clever seems to think a 10/30 is in order and I agree. so I'm still on the search lol. Thanks for posting these reports it is interesting an informative I appreciate it.
It sounds like the tappet noise you're hearing is due to the oil shearing with age. A 100% syn 10w30 would definitely resist shear better than any Dexos 2 5w30 or 5w40. 10w30 or even SAE 30 would be excellent in Florida's climate.

There are only a couple 100% synthetic 10w30 Diesel oils that I know of.

Amsoil HD 10w30 CK-4 https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...-product/motor-oil/diesel/heavy-duty-synthetic-diesel-oil-10w-30/?code=ADNQT-EA

Renewable Lubricants HD 10w30 CJ-4 https://www.zoro.com/renewable-lubricants-engine-oil-bio-synthetic-1-gal-10w30-85173/i/G1776905/

I'm currently using the Renewable Lubricants 10w30 mixed 50/50 with their 15w40 HD CJ-4. I had the blend tested and it's a thin 10w40 that flows better than the 5w40 Delvac used previously. All good after 3K miles, oil pressure still very strong so it's resisting age related shear pretty well.

The Amsoil 10w30 specs look really good too.
 
Results from oil change #4. This was the first change I did myself. The truck still had the AC Delco oil in it (last change was at dealer) but I have now moved to Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 w/ OEM filter. I'll report same results next time I change the oil!
 

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Results from oil change #4. This was the first change I did myself. The truck still had the AC Delco oil in it (last change was at dealer) but I have now moved to Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 w/ OEM filter. I'll report same results next time I change the oil!
Good to hear the oil is holding up well when taken up to the 7,500-mile interval. I didn't really expect otherwise, really, but good to know that soot wasn't an issue.
 
owns 2017 GMC Canyon Denali
Update to my previous post my truck still seems to like to use a half a quart every 5000 miles which is when I change my oil. My latest Blackstone report said my Chrome was about normal at three parts per million Aluminum and Potassium are still a bit high but Blackstone said as long as they track together it should be okay. I'm using Pennzoil Euro L dexos2 oil and they said I could go up to 7000 miles before oil changes I'm sticking to 5000.
 
One more data point. Read, ignore or... not sure what's left. As reports are added I will update and point back to this post. No need to duplicate data.

3/27/18 sample was taken from the bottom early in the drain stream at end of change interval. Redline 5W-40 Euro. Truck was GDE tuned for 40% of this change and had some lugging issues with a beta trans tune. Both following changes are 100% GDE engine and trans. All things considered (including subsequent reports), my best guess as to cause of elevated metals here is that this stuff makes a fairly good solvent.

6/20/18 sample was pumped from top 5500mi into interval. Redline 5W-40 Euro. Same oil as prior but iron dropped by factor of 3.

1/15/19 sample was pumped from top a bit prior to 5500mi into interval. 5qt Redline 5W-40 Euro + 1qt Redline 10W-40 (Cleaned off my shelf). Mostly 5W-40 Euro but had 1 qt 10W-40. Iron dropped by factor of 2.

Image
 
I have twelve qts of Dexos2 left and just may go with a HDEO when I use that up. Mobil1 Delvac ESP 5W-30 is on my radar.

Check out this tool at the Lubrizol site.

Click on either passenger car or heavy duty for each tool. You can overlay specs within a each category.

https://www.lubrizol.com/Lubricant-and-Fuel-Additives/Engine-Oil-Additives/ACEA/Relative-Performance-Tool
Just a suggestion before going with the Mobil Del Vac. May want to make sure how readily available it is at more than one vendor in your area. Where I am at, it can be found, but sometimes you have to hit several places before you find it. When I had my 5.9L Cummins, I used the Chevron Delo 400 which is a Group IV Synthetic Oil, and the truck has over 200,000 miles on it and going strong. Just a suggestion. Out of the Mobil Del Vac, Shell Rotella, and Chevron Delo 400, it is the only one made from Group IV Base Stock. I went with the Chevron because of the Group IV Base and the availability.
 
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