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How did you run the coax into the truck? Is there a punch out under the cab?
I came in through the can vents on the back wall of the cab.
Mount your antenna. Get the wire into the bed. Under the bed rail there is openings that will allow you to pass the wire between the inner and outer bed panels and drop to the ground. Secure the wire.
Inside the truck flip back seat forward and remove the plastic panel and pull insulation back from lower corner to expose cab vent.
I used a coat hanger to push through the vent and directed it down to my antenna wire. Then use electrical tape to secure antenna wire to coat hanger and pull it through.

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I came in through the can vents on the back wall of the cab.
Mount your antenna. Get the wire into the bed. Under the bed rail there is openings that will allow you to pass the wire between the inner and outer bed panels and drop to the ground. Secure the wire.
Inside the truck flip back seat forward and remove the plastic panel and pull insulation back from lower corner to expose cab vent.
I used a coat hanger to push through the vent and directed it down to my antenna wire. Then use electrical tape to secure antenna wire to coat hanger and pull it through.

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Thanks for the info. I will look into doing that for sure. I will be running my coax from the bed stack area and under the bed.
 
If I could ever get him to call me back I would get one of the mounts ordered :( Finally got up with Rick at Geotool. He sent me a lot of info on the bed stack mount. That is way I will be going. I will be ordering it this week. Going to get the SO-239 mount. Going to be ordering a new Ham radio this week. Either the Yaesu 400 or the new 300. Not sure yet on that one. Going to order the Lido Gooseneck mount for the radio head. Will be taking pictures and also shooting a youtube video to put up on my channel.
Glad you finally heard back! Will look forward to the pics and I’ll check out your channel. This may sway me to finally get a mount and out the radio in the truck.
 
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And I'm still on-the-fence about putting a rig in mine.

I'll let you guys do all the "leg work", so if/when I decide to install a radio I'll just follow your lead.....

73, Jim
 
So, I've run into a bit of a new headache. Not with the existing Kenwood, but with a new Whistler TRX-2 scanner to be added into the mix. I already have the two panel-mount RJ-11 jacks for the Kenwood head and mic (just like all the great install pics on page 6 of this thread), and want to add a third for the Whistler remote head, but I can't see how to wedge another one into that spot, short of cutting that center brace (which I hate to do).

Also, anyone know the part # for that panel? I can find it in the parts fiche (searching for "aux jack" pulls up the pic). But, it's the aux jack 9and part #), the 12v socket pieces (and #'s), and the panel, with "#12" as the group, but no part # for the group or panel. Pulled mine today, and searched for the part # from the sticker on the back but nothing found :-(

If I can get a couple of those, I might just carve one up and see if I can fit two RJ couplers in one side next to the aux jack and a third in the other side next to the 12v. Or, maybe someone has a line on a 4-6 port frame for those couplers that can be cut in and the three I need snapped in...
 
I would love to make some recommendation for you, but until you decide what you want to run, it is difficult to say. I run 2 meter/440 and 2 meter APRS in my Colorado . I run HF, 6, 2, and 440, plus APRS in my Blazer. Each one presents different challenges with power and antenna selection / mounting.

If you are starting with 2m/440 then there is not much to it Make sure you have a good (short lead) ground at the base of the radio and if possible also a the base of the antenna. While wiring direct to the battery is a good idea, I seldom find it necessary on 2 meters with only a 50 or 75 watt transmitter. The center of the roof is alway a good choice for a 2 m/440 antenna. Mine barely rubs the garage door at home and only drags in one place overhead in the local casino garage. If I was not a Z71 I would not hit in either location.

Any of the popular brand mobiles will work. Just choose one based on features and price. I use Icom 2m/440 and Yaesu hand helds and HF.

Good luck

N9KB
I was running an Icom 7000 in my '05 Colorado fo ra few years I had a mount off my trailer hitch that was on the side and a plat clamped under my cap. I have pictures on QRZ.COM under ifyou wan tot see that I did. I had a mag mount on the roof for 2mtrs and 440. I now have a 2021, and have to install it on it. As for power, in the crew cab has some hole plugs under the rug that is under the back seat. I will bring the power under the truck, and use it for antenna and tuner control lines
similar to what I had in the '05. It is important to grouind everythnig ot the body , dont use any of the neg (return) lines for lights etc.
contact me if you want to see pictures. BTW, I got fantastic reports (literally) all around the globe on 40 meters
Frank
 
I came in through the can vents on the back wall of the cab.
Mount your antenna. Get the wire into the bed. Under the bed rail there is openings that will allow you to pass the wire between the inner and outer bed panels and drop to the ground. Secure the wire.
Inside the truck flip back seat forward and remove the plastic panel and pull insulation back from lower corner to expose cab vent.
I used a coat hanger to push through the vent and directed it down to my antenna wire. Then use electrical tape to secure antenna wire to coat hanger and pull it through.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
I sent you a couple of messages.
 
My solution

After weeks of tinkering I finally have a permanent solution to the placement of my ham radio gear!

I had a Retrax cover installed. Love it!

Then, I hired a professional audio guy (Driven Mobile Electronics in Chantilly, VA) to install the radio, speaker, a programming wire, and cable wire to the antenna. They did a fantastic job!
I have a Kenwood TM-V71A radio. The base is under the driver’s seat, the faceplate is mounted in the cubby in the dashboard.
The speaker is mounted in front of the console facing forward.
The programming wire is under the carpet, next to the console on the driver’s side.

Mounting the antenna proved to be the biggest challenge. I needed a mount that would fit with my Retrax and I did not want to drill holes in my truck. So, for the antenna, a Comet Antennas SBB-1, I purchased a Breedlove stack pocket mount. The stake mounts fits in the stake pocket perfectly. The problem was the length of the top plate which needed to stick out to the side and not toward the bed.
The first top plate for the mount was 6.5 inches (too short). This would have caused the cable/connectors to rub against the side of my truck and scratch the paint. So, I asked Jerry Breedlove if he had other sized plates. He did and sent me a 8.5 inch top plate. This proved to be too long and the plate and the cable stuck out too far.

So, I asked Jerry to make me a 7.5 inch plate and he did so. It is perfect! We used an “L” shaped connector so that the cable would run flat and not loop down the side. The pocket holds the mount perfectly. It is really secure.

I will try to attach some photos.

Lisa
KK4PXC
Great installation - very neat, clean and professional looking. I am going to do something similar in my 2015 Colorado.
Just wondering if you have special grounding for the antenna and radio?
Thanks,
Peter
 
I came in through the can vents on the back wall of the cab.
Mount your antenna. Get the wire into the bed. Under the bed rail there is openings that will allow you to pass the wire between the inner and outer bed panels and drop to the ground. Secure the wire.
Inside the truck flip back seat forward and remove the plastic panel and pull insulation back from lower corner to expose cab vent.
I used a coat hanger to push through the vent and directed it down to my antenna wire. Then use electrical tape to secure antenna wire to coat hanger and pull it through.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
How thick of a connector do you think you can get through those vents?
 
Guess it's time to post up my latest setup.

Still have the FTM-400XDR but the control head is now mounted to the Expedition Essentials CPAM. Radio body and mic in the same place as before. Diamond NR770 is now mounted to a Rago Fab mount on the driver's rear corner of the bed. Really happy with all of it.
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owns 2017 GMC Canyon Denali
Guess it's time to post up my latest setup.

Still have the FTM-400XDR but the control head is now mounted to the Expedition Essentials CPAM. Radio body and mic in the same place as before. Diamond NR770 is now mounted to a Rago Fab mount on the driver's rear corner of the bed. Really happy with all of it.
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Does the radio get in the way of your knee getting in and out?
 
Does the radio get in the way of your knee getting in and out?
Nope! It's been there for like 1.5 years and no problems hitting it or the coiled cable pulling out leg hair. [emoji1787]

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owns 2017 GMC Canyon Denali
Have a 2021 Chevy Colorado on order (had to special order to get it optioned as want) and will be adding three ham radios. Already have a Kenwood 480 mobile HF rig which will be connected to a Little Tarhill 2 scewdriver antenna through an Ameritron programmable screwdriver controller. Second radio will be an Icom 5100 dual band D-Star and third will be a Yaesu FT-8900 Quad Band 29/50/144/430 MHz rig. Trying to decide if I will add Uniden President or Galaxy 99 SSB rig to work 10/11/12 meter AM and SSB along with one of my VHF Private Land Mobile Radios.. Most likely it will get the extra radio.Truck is an extended cab long box and will mount all the antennas to my tool box except I may use a no drill mount to attach the screwdriver where a traditional old school antenna would be just forward of the passenger side A-pillar. This is the most elegant way have found to mount antennas to all of my fleet work trucks.

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Use as many tip over mounts as possible when off roading or in low clearance areas.

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Each antenna has a hidden wire attached to inside bolt which home runs to the frame o the thruck for optimum grounding.

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Till get truck am unsure if I will build something around the console like this to mount control heads and some radio bodies.

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In this truck mounted one control head in ashtray, the Uniden President 10/11/12 meter rig under dash and used Velcro to attach the head of an Icom 706 MK2G just under the tachometer so easy to operate left handed. I can hide the radio bodies everywhere still leaving room for stereo amps, subwoofer enclosures, etc. Will probably remove the rear seats/console from the Colorado to add custom subwoofer box with hidden rifle lock box and amps. Who in the world would actually ride in the back seats of an extended cab Colorado???

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When it comes to work trucks and radios I will shoehorn i a minimum of three ham radios per truck plus custom stereo even if it requires a chainsaw.

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Have already ordered a custom mount to carry a small laptop to run digital modes from PSK 31, FT8, FL-DIGI and more. Will pull ground straps from hood, front fenders, cab and bed to frame as all are mounted on rubber bushings so your sheet metal is floating off ground if not all tied to the frame. drilling holes, adding robber grommets, sealing compound, pulling heavy wiring and adding a heavy duty alternator is on the list, already found a 290 amp aftermarket alternator, dual battery isolater and once I see how my aftermarket cold air box fits, how things are spaced under the hood will get a second battery tray and drop in biggest lithium telecom battery I can fit under the hood.

It takes a huge effort to run all the wiring so looks neat and have no ground loops plus subwoofer box for stereo integrates nicely but have 35 years experience installing custom stereos in $100,00 to $300,000 custom cars plus a custom CNC router to cut parts and already have all the cad drawings for the Colorado interior to make cutting my custom box and mounting parts easier. Did not see any sense paying for the Bose system when its all getting ripped out and replaced with mix of Rockford Fosgate and JBL. Odds are truck will have three to five transceivers and minimum of three stereo amps when its declared road ready. need my tunes and ham radio as spend four to five days of my week in my work truck for 10 to 12 hours
AA4BA.
 
Have a 2021 Chevy Colorado on order (had to special order to get it optioned as want) and will be adding three ham radios. Already have a Kenwood 480 mobile HF rig which will be connected to a Little Tarhill 2 scewdriver antenna through an Ameritron programmable screwdriver controller. Second radio will be an Icom 5100 dual band D-Star and third will be a Yaesu FT-8900 Quad Band 29/50/144/430 MHz rig. Trying to decide if I will add Uniden President or Galaxy 99 SSB rig to work 10/11/12 meter AM and SSB along with one of my VHF Private Land Mobile Radios.. Most likely it will get the extra radio.Truck is an extended cab long box and will mount all the antennas to my tool box except I may use a no drill mount to attach the screwdriver where a traditional old school antenna would be just forward of the passenger side A-pillar. This is the most elegant way have found to mount antennas to all of my fleet work trucks.

Image


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Use as many tip over mounts as possible when off roading or in low clearance areas.

Image


Each antenna has a hidden wire attached to inside bolt which home runs to the frame o the thruck for optimum grounding.

Image


Till get truck am unsure if I will build something around the console like this to mount control heads and some radio bodies.

Image


In this truck mounted one control head in ashtray, the Uniden President 10/11/12 meter rig under dash and used Velcro to attach the head of an Icom 706 MK2G just under the tachometer so easy to operate left handed. I can hide the radio bodies everywhere still leaving room for stereo amps, subwoofer enclosures, etc. Will probably remove the rear seats/console from the Colorado to add custom subwoofer box with hidden rifle lock box and amps. Who in the world would actually ride in the back seats of an extended cab Colorado???

Image


When it comes to work trucks and radios I will shoehorn i a minimum of three ham radios per truck plus custom stereo even if it requires a chainsaw.

Image


Have already ordered a custom mount to carry a small laptop to run digital modes from PSK 31, FT8, FL-DIGI and more. Will pull ground straps from hood, front fenders, cab and bed to frame as all are mounted on rubber bushings so your sheet metal is floating off ground if not all tied to the frame. drilling holes, adding robber grommets, sealing compound, pulling heavy wiring and adding a heavy duty alternator is on the list, already found a 290 amp aftermarket alternator, dual battery isolater and once I see how my aftermarket cold air box fits, how things are spaced under the hood will get a second battery tray and drop in biggest lithium telecom battery I can fit under the hood.

It takes a huge effort to run all the wiring so looks neat and have no ground loops plus subwoofer box for stereo integrates nicely but have 35 years experience installing custom stereos in $100,00 to $300,000 custom cars plus a custom CNC router to cut parts and already have all the cad drawings for the Colorado interior to make cutting my custom box and mounting parts easier. Did not see any sense paying for the Bose system when its all getting ripped out and replaced with mix of Rockford Fosgate and JBL. Odds are truck will have three to five transceivers and minimum of three stereo amps when its declared road ready. need my tunes and ham radio as spend four to five days of my week in my work truck for 10 to 12 hours
AA4BA.
Dang, that is a lot of radios.
I had a yaesu 8900 once, sold it and got 2 icom 880h, one for each vehicle. Spent most of my time on 440. But looking to get into 220 since there are more repeaters being put up.
 
I have a half dozen radios purchased in past year still sitting new in their boxes not had time to install. I have an all band/all mode shack at work that is an ARRL approved Official Emergency Station as well as shack at home even better equipped. All my trucks get a dual band D-Star radio for monitoring the reflectors, A dual or quad band FM for working local repeaters, an HF rig and usually a 10/11/12 meter AM/SSB rig. My two most driven trucks have AOR digital trunking scanners tethered to software found on Russian hacker site servers to monitor law enforcement and fire services digital trunk traffic. Most trucks have one or two Signalinks, digital voice recording (luckily many radios are adding that feature plus SD card slots and USB ports) as i like recording some of my better mobile contacts and especially when have to run an emergency communications/Skywarn net from the truck and working multiple radios may have to review traffic from one radio if was talking on another when .the traffic came into another unit. Should see my mobile unit that take to the coast for FEMA activation's following hurricanes and such
 
Just put on a rago fab mount on.

I had to use only 3 bolts due to the topper. And it’s still a tight squeeze.

The top right one was also very annoying to drill as I has to drill through the edge of a second panel. But it worked out.
415027

415028

Works okay. Even without a big ground plane. It’s a vhf uhf antenna.
I will be tearing it down in a week to see if the cable is okay being pinched like this. It does fit on its own but there is a layer of PET (harness wire loom) and electrical tape.
 
I routed the cable inside and ran some power wires… Now I just need to plug everything in.

The cable is routed all the way to the front. It’s about 36 ft of coax. My good grommet is already full of stuff so I just punched my OCD card and drilled a new grommet.
415116


And here they are under driver seat. It is getting power from the ignition relay on F28 but I don’t have the right fuse tap right now. The power is routed up and through the front dash. The ground is a instrument panel mounting bolt on passenger side (the best ground in cab).
415117
 
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