Yep! I ran a tap from the high beam fuse under the hood to trigger my relay for the light bar. I used a three position switch. Position one allows the light bar with high beams. Position two is light bar off with high beams. Position three is light bar only. Easy job. Google relay wiring and three position switch wiring. Check your owners manual for the fuse Location and purchase a fuse tap.

 

You wouldn’t happen to have that wiring schematic handy would ya?

 

No. Sorry. I just used a fuse tap to get power from the high beams to trigger the relay. Here is my go-to diagram though.

 

I believe our trucks have a fuse for the left high beam (F38) and another for the right high beam(F37). I'm guessing you plugged into one of those. Correct?

 

Has anyone done this using 2 push button switches instead? So both buttons off = no lightbar. say, first button pushed would make light bar come on with high beams. Then button 2 is the over-ride on/off for the lightbar manually. I want to wire this using the Accessory Switch Solutions 2 or 3 button panel in the chapstick cubby and would prefer not to use the round 3 position rockers because they're ugly and cheap looking. I'd use if I had too but the halo push buttons are a lot nicer looking. Not sure what I'd use the 3rd button for if I got a 3 button but at least I'd have it for the future.

 

you would need two relays is all. Same concept. Just look at it like two different/separate circuits with the power from the relays going to the bar (after the relays of course)

 

I only did an on off for light bar with the foot switch

 

@White016 Would you need 2 relays though? The 3-way switch is just 2 separate on switches in 1. just run the trigger "power in" that originally just went to the 3-way and run it to both switches individually.

 

Can anybody clarify this?

 

If you are using two separate switches, your diagram will allow feedback from switch ONE through switch TWO to the high beams if both switches are in the on position. On the other hand, if you use a single pole, double throw switch so only one switch can be activated at a time, your diagram will work.

 

Ok got it. Believe it or not I’ve done a lot of pretty complex wiring… it just doesn’t come natural so I have to think it over a lot to figure it out every time lol. That’s when the interweb comes in handy.
So a question. I tried to make it simple by saying my switches were 3 wire… they are actually 5 wire with a NO wire and a NC wire (and 1 for illumination, 1 common and ground). Does that make a difference? Or would I still require 2 more relays like you said? In my head I’m thinking, even if I use a relay for each switch, I’d still have the feedback issue with both switches on… how would I wire this? Is it possible with the 5 wire switches? If not, how would I wire the relays?

 

Yep, like @Tom S. said. But, does it really matter?
Not really. Basically you are turning on the high beams with the override IF the high beam switch is ON. No biggy and maybe a good thing?

 

Yep, like @Tom S. said. But, does it really matter?
Not really. Basically you are turning on the high beams with the override IF the high beam switch is ON. No biggy and maybe a good thing?

That was the idea. If both switches were off the light bar would never come on. Most of the time I’d probably have the on/off w/ high beam switch on so power would only come when high beams on. If I wanted the light bar on at any given moment I’d just hit the override “original” switch circuit. If that switch was on, the light bar was on, regardless of the other button. I hear what he was saying though. I don’t know if there’s any diode in these Apiele switches to stop the relay signal output of the override switch from back feeding into the “high beam” switch and back to the high beam fuse.

 

This is how I would do it if you do not wish to use a diode:

This is how you were proposing and without a diode, there will be feedback to the high beams if both switches are engaged. It will work, provided you do not screw up and engage both switches at the same time.

 

ok, @Memphis1931
use tom's diagram above as a reference.
The black and red are self explanatory as is the white on the stock harness.
You can run it off the key or battery depending on if you want it switched or not.
All we need to do is tie the blue on your harness (going to the stock switch) to the blue on your new switches.
To make the light come on while the switch is on tie the red to the blue on the new switch for the LED.
Tie the green to power on one switch and the other to the high beam. This will feed the LED and relay when the switch is on
Somebody double check me please.
Make sure your power/s to the switches are fused with something small like a 5 amp or less.
You can run all the power for this (not the light bar though) from one fused source under the dash somewhere, I would do it off the cig lighter plug right there I think and run it's own 5 amp fuse. That can be changed from switched to battery too in the fuse box, look for the 50 amp and it's placement. It can be moved one slot to change from battery to key.