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Pictures of CCV reroute to atmosphere

32K views 36 replies 17 participants last post by  rolando  
#1 · (Edited)
I have a 2018 Colorado ZR2 extended cab Duramax. Lots of people have talked about rerouting the CCV to atmosphere but I couldn't find anyone who explained it in detail, or took pictures of doing it. So I hope this helps someone out. I originally ran a Provent 200 for less than 500 miles and it worked but if I would have done this first it would have saved me $135 on the Provent, and you don't have to buy the expensive filters for the unit this way either. So I have a lightly used Provent 200 for sale if anyone is interested.

In the pictures I have written how I did the reroute. If you have any questions let me know. It was extremely easy. Been running the truck for a couple hundred miles and no issues except I'm now longer coating my entire intake system with oil. I also never smell any fumes in the cab since it vents right in front of the rear bumper.

Yes I removed my engine cover and all the sound deadening crap because I like the diesel engine sound and it makes it easy to access the engine quickly, if anyone was curious.
 

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#2 ·
I really like what you did but I have a few questions.


1- I am wondering the way you have it setup where the oil will go? It is not just vapor there is a lot of oil and the way you have it setup the oil will most likely just stay in the hose? Obviously it will take a while to fill the entire hose but at some point you might a bit of a restriction. I am just wondering here not criticizing.
2 - I think that the only reason why people don't really talk about it or have pictures of it is because it actually dumps oil on the ground.
3 - does it get cold where you live, close to freezing ?
4 - another reason why people use catch can is to not have a mess in their driveway.
 
#3 ·
For what ever reason pics 1 and 2 won't load. If you can repost just 1 & 2 I'd like to see what you did as far as the tap.

So does that new line strictly have a positive pressure? In other words does that line pull anything back to the engine? If not I guess there is no need for a screen or filter at the end. Like to hear what others think of this.
 
#6 ·
Do you get any smell in the cab when running the AC with that setup? I was gonna go that route but several people said it made a strong oil odor inside the cab when running the heat/AC.
 
#5 ·
id be leery of a line that long freezing, but perhaps your climate makes that a moot point.
this was periodically an issue on big rigs that had open vents - youd freeze it while over nighting in the winter, then take off the next morning building a lot of crankcase pressure and pop... the pressure (and usually a considerable amount of oil) would find its way out of the weakest seal. which somehow always manages to be whatever seal is hardest to replace :p
 
#8 ·
Too long a run when in cold weather. Straight down is best so it just drips out any moisture and run close to the radiator for heat. I only smell oil vapor at random times and it’s mild. Not even worth thinking about. You’ll get a plugged line eventually with that setup and blow a seal.


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#16 ·
That was quite a bit of work and ingenuity involved!

I too would be worried in winter if temps drop below freezing in your location, especially if it is a wet winter cold like MN has. Denver where I live is very dry, but I recall a post where I was comparing notes with another forum member who lives in MN. My Provent had lots of oil but no water in it, his had a lot of condensed water due to MN's high humidity in winter. All that water can freeze into brown "goo".
If it does not freeze where you live, then you should be good to go, but I would not want to risk having oil/water mix collecting in a low spot in the hose, having it freeze and blowing a main seal.

Have had the Provent on my truck since new, it has 30K on it now, the intake is spotless and it has not been a problem at all. I use a toilet tank supply line valve as my drain shutoff, which is zip tied by my passenger side front tire frame rail. Seems appropriate somehow :laugh: Makes it easy to drain come oil change time.
 
#17 ·
I updated my work due to some peoples cold weather concerns of having fluid freeze in the hose. I have exited the hose in front of the passenger side front leaf spring mount. The hose is on a decline angle from the engine bay. Fluid will not pool and or freeze in the hose now. I have updated the pictures above and this is the new hose exit photo. Also the whole reason I did this is so I wouldn't smell the oil fumes in the cab. This still prevents that and my intake manifold stays oil free and clean.
 

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#19 ·
Interesting thread but I too would like to know how much of a concern this oil seepage is into the turbo inlet.
The CCV on the little VW diesels appears to be about the same design concept and some of us have over 300k on these engines and that turbo hasn't so much as burped. Is the LWM mill having some issues that has been causing turbo failures or other engine malady due to oil seepage from the CC??
Thanks, TLW
 
#26 ·
I am curious if you could pull the rear section off the truck after the DPF and install one of those adapters to pull the fumes into the exhaust. I say this because I noticed my truck was doing regen one day after pulling up to the house, because of the overwhelming increase in heat coming off the truck from under.... pulled my infrared temp gun and pointed it at the DPF and it said 930F on the display... so dumping the oil fumes into that section of the exhaust in theory would take care of everything... may collect some in the pipe as residue.. but as soon as you go into regen that pipe should be perfectly cleaned... im talking about after the DPF, not before.. as the heat would still be hot enough afterwards...
 
#30 ·
Image


6.2 but same concept

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I ran valve cover breathers on my S/C LS2 for a while and did get a decent amount of oil mist spraying all over the motor. Not tons, but enough to create a mess on the valve cover and S/C brackets. I swapped that over to a breather can as well. I think running open breathers without a baffled can on this diesel would make even more of a mess, these things puff a lot of fumes.
 
#32 ·
Hi, thanks for this great post. I have a 2016 GMC Canyon Duramax that I purchased used. I knew there were quite a few modifications to it when I got it but it seems like I find something new everyday. I recently found oil going down the back of my engine and I think it’s because of a similar situation to what you’re doing here. I was wondering if you could give me some advice on what I’m seeing with my truck.
There is a little green hose that I believe is the cause of my problems but I could be very wrong. It looks like the previous owner just ran it to the back right near the firewall and then just let it empty right there. Any advice is much appreciated!
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#33 ·
If you decide to leave that hose there, I'd highly recommend that you go to a larger diameter fuel rated line. That appears to be very small diameter (which isn't great for pressure). If you are unable to locate a hose you message me here or on our website/facebook and I can send you a short length for your application.
 
#35 ·
Defiinitely pull the 2.8 cover and see what is up with the green hose. That is way too small. Also you don't want it dumping oil there, seems like it would smell bad aside from making a mess.

I am with the original poster - like to run w/o the 2.8 cover. With all the DI lines and injectors on full display, I think it looks all steampunk bad ass that way. :cool: