A bad O2 isn't going to make it die, I would start with a good visual inspection for vacuum leaks, ect. then fuel pressure, possible bad fuel pump. It seams if the pressure was low it would be both banks but you never know. It's a good start.
Does it seem to miss on one cylinder too? Then maybe injector.
Does it just die while idling? Or while accelerating from a stop? The more info the better...

 

It dies while at a light, idling in gear with my foot on the brakes or parked while running. Once I gas it up to get moving, it’s normal.

I’ll do an inspection, I’ve seen that if the engine cover assembly is cracked, that may cause a leak in the vacuum also.

 

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. If only one bank lean, look at intake gasket on the corresponding side of engine. If both banks are lean, the look at intake tubing between mass air meter and intake manifold gaskets. Chances are with that code the o2 sensor is still good and you just have a large enough vacuum leak that the computer can't adjust for. If it has been apart before or you have added a cold air / hot air intake, check those items first.

 

I’ll give it a shot. I just had it serviced and had the Intake Filter replaced, it may be something simple as the tech didn’t tighten the filter lid correctly. That’s what I’m hoping at least.

 

Had this same exact problem just a couple days ago, and solved it thanks to a good youtube video on the topic by a mechanic.
I had an OBDII bluetooth adapter laying around so I stuck it into the socket, paired to my phone (after many attempts), and started the Torque app.
Yes, it confirmed the 0174 fault, and using what I learned in that video, I could see that the Long Term Fuel Trim for Bank 0 and 1 were too high, around 25%.
Meaning the engine is running too lean, and the PCM is calling for more fuel to be added. See (Fuel Trim?)
The mechanic in the video found another vacuum leak, but my issue did not seem to be the same, as that hose seem well plugged in.

So started looking all around the engine cover, and lo and behold, I found it. I don't know the exact function of the hose, but the host inserts into a fitting just underneath the left side of the (intake side) engine cover (as you face the truck) where there is a little cutout (at least in my 2020 ZR2). There is a retaining clip that keeps that hose on, BUT it needs a good push to feel the hose clip on. The factory probably never pushed the hose on all the way, and because I was bouncing off road, this hose eventually popped off, causing the engine light to come on, and a 0174 error code to come up on the OBDII readout. My truck has like 8000 miles or so, and somehow the hose held onto the fitting without the clip for that long.

Clipping that hose back on, removing battery cable to erase all the fuel trim settings and engine light, and lo and behold, the engine light came on, but went off quickly on next restart.
The OBDII readout showed the problem was resolved, and Long and Short Term Fuel Trim levels were behaving normally. My LongTerm Fuel Trim is now about 0 to -5%ish, depending on driving conditions. Then you drive around for a few hours and the engine PCM relearns what the fuel trim should be given atmospheric conditions, O2 sensor outputs, etc...

 

Had this same exact problem just a couple days ago, and solved it thanks to a good youtube video on the topic by a mechanic.
I had an OBDII bluetooth adapter laying around so I stuck it into the socket, paired to my phone (after many attempts), and started the Torque app.
Yes, it confirmed the 0174 fault, and using what I learned in that video, I could see that the Long Term Fuel Trim for Bank 0 and 1 were too high, around 25%.
Meaning the engine is running too lean, and the PCM is calling for more fuel to be added. See (Fuel Trim?)
The mechanic in the video found another vacuum leak, but my issue did not seem to be the same, as that hose seem well plugged in.

So started looking all around the engine cover, and lo and behold, I found it. I don't know the exact function of the hose, but the host inserts into a fitting just underneath the left side of the (intake side) engine cover (as you face the truck) where there is a little cutout (at least in my 2020 ZR2). There is a retaining clip that keeps that hose on, BUT it needs a good push to feel the hose clip on. The factory probably never pushed the hose on all the way, and because I was bouncing off road, this hose eventually popped off, causing the engine light to come on, and a 0174 error code to come up on the OBDII readout. My truck has like 8000 miles or so, and somehow the hose held onto the fitting without the clip for that long.

Clipping that hose back on, removing battery cable to erase all the fuel trim settings and engine light, and lo and behold, the engine light came on, but went off quickly on next restart.
The OBDII readout showed the problem was resolved, and Long and Short Term Fuel Trim levels were behaving normally. My LongTerm Fuel Trim is now about 0 to -5%ish, depending on driving conditions. Then you drive around for a few hours and the engine PCM relearns what the fuel trim should be given atmospheric conditions, O2 sensor outputs, etc...

I think I know which video you are talking about! I've actually taken that hose off and reinstalled and the engine light stayed on after a few restarts. I didn't, however, disconnect the battery to reset the CPU, so I'll be sure to do that. I saw that he also 'SMOKED' the engine cover, which I may try next. I appreciate your input.

 

Check all the various hoses around and below the engine cover. I didn't notice the disconnected hose under the corner of the engine cover, until I lowered my point of view to be practically level with the engine cover. If not that, check every fitting/hose/clamp in the air intake chain from air cleaner onwards.

Also, get an OBDII bluetooth adapter and the Torque or similar app (free), and you'll be able to do what that mechanic did in the video, in terms of checking the Fuel Trim levels, as well as O2 sensors etc. If you actually fixed the issue with your hose reconnections, and the ENgine Light didn't go off, then these Fuel Trim levels in the app will confirm you no longer have a vacuum leak that is causing the too lean fault. Afaik.

 

I had a Dodge Dakota that had the same symptom. Everytime I came to a stop sign or stop light it would bog down and stall. It ended up being a faulty rear wheel speed sensor.

 

I had a Dodge Dakota that had the same symptom. Everytime I came to a stop sign or stop light it would bog down and stall. It ended up being a faulty rear wheel speed sensor.

What in the world the rear wheel speed sensor has to do with engine idle is beyond me.
Strange one there.....

 

OK. Turned out to be the Vapor Canister Purge Valve. Inexpensive and really easy to replace. Located on the passenger side of the Engine, under the cover (no need to remove cover). I've had to replace this once before, but had given me a different code (P0496). Disconnected just as the video instructs, and sure enough, valve was sucking like Dave's mom in the back seat of a Cadi. (INSIDE JOKE) This is apparently very common and I am researching what causes these valves to go bad and how to prevent it from going bad. Thanks to everyone who put in their two cents.. I feel much more richer.

Watch from 11:00 min

 

Great find. I bet you would have got the P0496 eventually.
I put an AC Delco purge valve on a friends older full size truck that lasted all of 30 days. Next time it's gonna be Dorman or something....
Maybe see if there is something stuck in it holding open?? Just curious.

 

i got a 2019 chevy colorado over the weekend i changed a bad injector on bank 2 cylinder 2 all the codes went away i get in it the moring to drive to work i get system too lean in bank 2 i looked ever where to find a leak cant find one any help

 

I fixed this recurrent problem on my 2017. Standing in front of the motor, bend down and look at about the center of the plastic cover on top of the motor. Underneath, on the front towards the left of center, is a vacuum line. It likes to pop off on rough roads. Simply pushing it back on solves this problem for me.

 

Thank you so much, I've been chasing this intermittent issue a while! First time the CEL came on I got the code after visiting my local auto parts store and found I had caused by not securing the cover properly after replacing the air filter. Second time the CEL popped up, I hadn't been under the hood, but cleaning the MAF sensor the CEL stayed off for almost a month before returning a third time. You were spot on, there was a hose not connected, just hiding under the front of the engine cover, and I was able to easily push back on and secure the locking clip. No more code!