[OverlandZ71]

Have you considered swapping the truck bed for a flatbed to support all of that weight? There are slide in camper integrated flatbeds for the Colorado, for both the short bed and the long bed. Instead of bed rails, there are security lock boxes for gear. I think one model incorporates a diesel heater in one of the lock boxes.

 

[trikermutha]

There are products for that. Just don’t use this in a public campground, you might get some funny looks. 😄
View attachment 476329

Don’t need a bucket when your out in the woods. 😁

 

[OFC Ranger]

Have you considered swapping the truck bed for a flatbed to support all of that weight? There are slide in camper integrated flatbeds for the Colorado, for both the short bed and the long bed. Instead of bed rails, there are security lock boxes for gear. I think one model incorporates a diesel heater in one of the lock boxes.

The limiting factor is the frame, I don't believe swapping rear box for a flat bed will change this. We have plans to harden the frame up a bit in the future as a pre-cautionary measure. However, I must re-iterate again, this is going to be a Touring rig. While far capable beyond a pavement princess, it will not be suitable for expedition style trips into the unknown savage terrain. That is how people with similar setups do end up breaking their rides, not respecting the equipment or a far inflated sense of capability.

 

[Mr Stig]

I believe you are correct. The backup plan to have my own steel plates cut should I need to go that route.

I've jumped mine with 350lbs or so in the back. No problems. I think the frames are better. Still, I've seen at least one case of bed/cab contact. With your use and habits I'm sure your fine.

 

[OverlandZ71]

I hear you on the frame being the limiting factor. As I understand, the only way the flatbed would improve the strength is if cross members and/or other supports could be added to the frame and then the flatbed could be bolted down to the original frame and the new supports.

 

[OFC Ranger]

I've jumped mine with 350lbs or so in the back. No problems. I think the frames are better. Still, I've seen at least one case of bed/cab contact. With your use and habits I'm sure your fine.

Yes after much discussion with AVO and my intended purpose we think it should be fine. I am going to up-armor just as another layer of fail-safe.

However a warning to those with bed cap mounted racks, there are multiple reports (on 23+ models) that the pinch weld underneath them (more towards the tail light) section is cracking apart and in some cases the actual bed side shell cracking. These users are running heavy rack loads (ie; RTT + gear) and/or robust canopy campers (ie; Tune Outdoor M1 as an example) and engaging in extensive off-roading. I never actually looked into if GM explains the actual bed cap weight limits, so if this is a problem from a design standpoint, or if these users unknowingly were unaware.

 

[OverlandZ71]

There's a post with some advice on this site regarding the installation of a popup camper on the Colorado. In addition to the frame suports, there was an issue with the bed frame bolts needing a mod. The post is here:

https://www.coloradofans.com/posts/5600936/

 

[OverlandZ71]

Yes after much discussion with AVO and my intended purpose we think it should be fine. I am going to up-armor just as another layer of fail-safe.

However a warning to those with bed cap mounted racks, there are multiple reports (on 23+ models) that the pinch weld underneath them (more towards the tail light) section is cracking apart and in some cases the actual bed side shell cracking. These users are running heavy rack loads (ie; RTT + gear) and/or robust canopy campers (ie; Tune Outdoor M1 as an example) and engaging in extensive off-roading.

I saw a YouTube video by someone with that problem. I presume it is a combo of frame flex and the way the camper is mounted to the bed rails. The Project M includes a solid structural frame between the camper and the bed rails (makes a little shelf for cooking or whatever) and then it's bolted down through the bed rails instead of using a couple of clamps.

 

[OFC Ranger]

There's a post with some advice on this site regarding the installation of a popup camper on the Colorado. In addition to the frame suports, there was an issue with the bed frame bolts needing a mod. The post is here:

https://www.coloradofans.com/posts/5600936/

I actually just got a reply from 589Fab earlier today. They have the 3rd gen stiffener plates developed and should be released in near future.

 

[OFC Ranger]

I saw a YouTube video by someone with that problem. I presume it is a combo of frame flex and the way the camper is mounted to the bed rails. The Project M includes a solid structural frame between the camper and the bed rails (makes a little shelf for cooking or whatever) and then it's bolted down through the bed rails instead of using a couple of clamps.

Yea I personally would not go for a canopy camper in the 400lb+ range without a design feature (or custom fabrication) to somehow put the downforce load into the bed instead of the bed walls. I don't think the bed walls would ever buckle, but crack, for sure.

 

[Mr Stig]

Yea I personally would not go for a canopy camper in the 400lb+ range without a design feature (or custom fabrication) to somehow put the downforce load into the bed instead of the bed walls. I don't think the bed walls would ever buckle, but crack, for sure.

I think the factory bed is designed to have some flex in it. Some racks and toppers are so stiff that the bed cracks during articulation. That's my theory.

 

[FrozenSquid]

Having owned a typical RTT (ladder accessed) I actually don't like them, this unit however the tent platform is accessed from the inside so much less of a PITA.

As far as wind, depends on the quality of the RTT - the tighter the tolerances are on the fabric and frame, the less wind flap you will get (if that is what you are referring to).

Nice! Thanks.

 

[OFC Ranger]

Not much to update at moment; reinstalled some roof boxes and gave it a bath.

Spent a good portion of the day troubleshooting some rear camper light gremlins. Seems this truck is like most modern ones and it really has a firm dislike for LED lights due to the way most pulse width modulators work in modern truck trailer systems. In process of hardwiring them into a tail lamp.

 

[gherbert]

Not much to update at moment; reinstalled some roof boxes and gave it a bath.

Spent a good portion of the day troubleshooting some rear camper light gremlins. Seems this truck is like most modern ones and it really has a firm dislike for LED lights due to the way most pulse width modulators work in modern truck trailer systems. In process of hardwiring them into a tail lamp.

View attachment 476601

Most of the newer vehicles do not like lower quality LEDs
Those are the ones that tend to give it the most issues.

Did you try to wire them through the 7 Pin Connector?

 

[OFC Ranger]

Most of the newer vehicles do not like lower quality LEDs
Those are the ones that tend to give it the most issues.

Did you try to wire them through the 7 Pin Connector?

Alu-cab uses a 7 blade trailer connector, but the truck doesn't care for it. I am in the process of tapping the tail lamps directly to bypass the PWM problems / oddities of the trailer system.

My previous Truck, a 2019 Ranger had similar problems.

 

[gherbert]

Alu-cab uses a 7 blade trailer connector, but the truck doesn't care for it. I am in the process of tapping the tail lamps directly to bypass the PWM problems / oddities of the trailer system.

My previous Truck, a 2019 Ranger had similar problems.

Wow that is strange sonce my Magnum Headache Rack uses a Piggy Back Connector to the 7 Pin Plug
And I have my Bumper Lights and Previous Hitch Lights plugged into the 7 Pin with no issue

Since the 7 Pin is designed to have a load go through it.
So it shouldn't mess with the computer
Sad that it not playing nicely in your case

 

[littleblazer]

Alu-cab uses a 7 blade trailer connector, but the truck doesn't care for it. I am in the process of tapping the tail lamps directly to bypass the PWM problems / oddities of the trailer system.

My previous Truck, a 2019 Ranger had similar problems.

Is it due to the trailer security setup... how it'll send pulses and look for a load to determine if something is connected? The Ford has given us a problem with trailers that are 100% led in not always recognizing something is there.

 

[OFC Ranger]

Is it due to the trailer security setup... how it'll send pulses and look for a load to determine if something is connected? The Ford has given us a problem with trailers that are 100% led in not always recognizing something is there.

Yes, the culprit is almost always the pulse width modulation in modern trailer systems. Most people notice two things;

1.) When the LEDS are not active you will see them very dimmly flickering (usually have to get right up on the lights to see it)

2.) Various system dash errors "check turn signals", "check trailer connection", etc etc

3.) Prevents sequential functioning in a lot of cases if the LED light has that style (the light will blink as normal, instead of using said sequential design)


I ran into this exact problem on my previous Ranger I had built a custom quad sequential rear light system for. To bypass all of this I had to wire directly into the tail lamps and bypass the trailer system;

 

[OFC Ranger]

Wow that is strange sonce my Magnum Headache Rack uses a Piggy Back Connector to the 7 Pin Plug
And I have my Bumper Lights and Previous Hitch Lights plugged into the 7 Pin with no issue

Since the 7 Pin is designed to have a load go through it.
So it shouldn't mess with the computer
Sad that it not playing nicely in your case

It all depends on the manufacturer design. I know a lot of the rear light bars people install on trucks (the kind that go under the tail gate, ie; putco) can come with extra components like resistors or control boxes that address these issues. Thankfully in my case I had encountered this same exact problem before on a completely different vehicle and knew how to address it.

 

[GrizzlyRent]

Yes, the culprit is almost always the pulse width modulation in modern trailer systems. Most people notice two things;

1.) When the LEDS are not active you will see them very dimmly flickering (usually have to get right up on the lights to see it)

2.) Various system dash errors "check turn signals", "check trailer connection", etc etc

3.) Prevents sequential functioning in a lot of cases if the LED light has that style (the light will blink as normal, instead of using said sequential design)


I ran into this exact problem on my previous Ranger I had built a custom quad sequential rear light system for. To bypass all of this I had to wire directly into the tail lamps and bypass the trailer system;

I love those sequential turns. Looks really good