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My Build: How to Void Your Warranty

23K views 154 replies 27 participants last post by  OFC Ranger  
#1 · (Edited)
Former re-turning member here.

Lets get a few basics out of the way; this is being built as a touring rig, it is not for off-roading beyond access roads or what a Subaru Outback or Van Lifer can probably do. I have no intentions of rock crawling or anything trail that would require deep drops on the frame. I've owned my ZR2 for over a year and only have 5,000 miles on the odometer, I am quite literally the definition of weekend warrior and the truck doesn't leave my garage unless I am making a camping trip, either off the grid somewhere or I am completely unashamed to say I have no quarrels of laying my head in a state park with all the amenities like shore power and bath houses. If you are an off road purist, or a warranty purist avert your eyes.

Mods Thus Far:

Alu-Cab Khaya Basic
ARB Black Aluminum 2500x2500 Awning
ARB 2500x2500 Awning Tent Attachment
Peak Suspension Leaf Addon (750lb Rating)
Firestone Rear Airbags
Icon Vector 6 Wheels
Victory 4x4 Roof Rack
De-Badged / Stickered
Bluetti AC200MAX (2048wH)
EUHOMY Freezer / Fridge
Generic Roof Rack Spot Lights (x6)
Khaya Custom Interior Build

On the docket:

On-board Heating (TBD)
EcoFlow Wave A/C Pending)
AEV Snorkel (Pending)
Solar (Pending)

Installer for the big ticket items is Asheville Vehicle Outfitters.

Now for the elephant(s) in the room:

I say these things to be blunt, not to come off as a butt-hole. We all know how the internet can be so just putting it out there front and center.

1.) The manual says the Colorado's are not suitable for slide-ins. Check, got it, warranty voided, you don't need to chime in with the obvious.
2.) Everything empty puts me right near the payload limit of the ZR2 model. Again, not to come off as condescending, but I get it. Big builds require mitigation, alteration, and the beef. My frame possibly bending or the status of my warranty is my problem, not yours.

Unintended Consequences:

I believe this the first Khaya unit installed on a Colorado (at least 3rd Gen) in the world. You can study schematics and take measurements all day; but AVO was going to have to adapt and configure on the fly as needed. That is indeed what happened. Due to the very high bed walls and overall width, a spacer frame to raise it 4-6" had to be installed in the bed so the front anchor points (eye bolts & chains) would clear the bed caps. The rear attachment is pretty self explanatory, but the fronts are made by drilling holes in the bed with some very heavy duty backer plates running said eye bolts.

On the more comical side, my workshop/garage has an 8 foot opening. I had to demo my poor barn doors rework my frame opening to be taller. I'll be having to build new doors. /sad face

How It Handles:

Somewhat scary in the context the truck drives like nothing is back there. I've only had the Khaya a few days now and it has been on mountain roads, winding hills, and interstate. It just doesn't care about the weight. Now this is with the caveat you drive it like the fat pig it is and respect the dynamics and not treat it like a race car. You have to respect it because it will let you drive beyond its capabilities in this configuration. For whatever reason these 2.7 motors just don't care.

On top of all that I only lost like 1 MPG. I'm not sure how that is possible, but there you have it.

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Former Configuration:

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#2 ·
Well that is making it into what you want.
Glad you are respecting what your Upgrades/Modifications do to the vehicle.
 
owns 2017 Chevrolet Colorado Z71
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#6 ·
Glad you are respecting what your Upgrades/Modifications do to the vehicle.
Well the good news is, the main culprit behind the ZR2 lower payload limit is the more "off-road" inspired suspension. Tackling that up front realistically bringing it in line with the base model WT specs for payload capacity.

I've also been confronted with the other obvious question; "Why did you get a ZR2?" Besides getting the dual lockers and some other ZR2 specific visuals, I don't have a good answer for anyone wondering that. (ha!)
 
#7 ·
My idea of camping these days is a couch or Holiday Inn and think this is great. Up front you knew you'd want that leaf and bags, planned ahead. Planning ahead for better brakes etc, this is the right way to modify/add to a vehicle that wasn't originally engineered for your plans. Years back I was building GM 3800 cars we knew out of the gate that the cars were aging, heavy and didn't handle well. Best thing to do was ensure all maintenance was up to date and upgrade from there before trying to double the HP. Then when you finally got there, you'd be let down by the lovely 4T65 transmisstion and it's limitations.

I doubt the engine/transmission are going to be an issue in your build. I'd like to hear more about the brake upgrades you have planned.
 
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#10 ·
On the MPG, it already has the aerodynamics of a brick being a ZR2. I'm surprised you actually noticed any difference. :LOL:

Nice build by the way.
 
#14 ·
Having owned a typical RTT (ladder accessed) I actually don't like them, this unit however the tent platform is accessed from the inside so much less of a PITA.

As far as wind, depends on the quality of the RTT - the tighter the tolerances are on the fabric and frame, the less wind flap you will get (if that is what you are referring to).
 
#23 ·
The limiting factor is the frame, I don't believe swapping rear box for a flat bed will change this. We have plans to harden the frame up a bit in the future as a pre-cautionary measure. However, I must re-iterate again, this is going to be a Touring rig. While far capable beyond a pavement princess, it will not be suitable for expedition style trips into the unknown savage terrain. That is how people with similar setups do end up breaking their rides, not respecting the equipment or a far inflated sense of capability.
 
#33 ·
Not much to update at moment; reinstalled some roof boxes and gave it a bath.

Spent a good portion of the day troubleshooting some rear camper light gremlins. Seems this truck is like most modern ones and it really has a firm dislike for LED lights due to the way most pulse width modulators work in modern truck trailer systems. In process of hardwiring them into a tail lamp.

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#34 ·
Most of the newer vehicles do not like lower quality LEDs
Those are the ones that tend to give it the most issues.

Did you try to wire them through the 7 Pin Connector?
 
owns 2017 Chevrolet Colorado Z71
#41 · (Edited)
Still not much to report. I needed to address some exhaust clearance issues with the airbags. The main culprit being the big ol' fat resonator Chevrolet decided to install within close proximity to the passenger side leaf pack. Had a shop perform a reso-delete and then dump the exhaust right before the axle. This was more or less a stop gap arrangement until I can decide on an aftermarket exhaust down the road (if I even bother). The only two 'performance" mods I have planned are an AEV snorkel and something like a banks pedal monster.

My main concern was droning, even with the factory muffler still in place, especially with it dumping right behind the cab. I just wanted to report that short of a little louder cold start (barely if that) - I am experiencing no noticeable audible change with the resonator completely deleted even at cruising speed.

I know everyone's hearing range is different and short of me developing mystery headaches on long trips, I am kind of curious why this resonator (and of this size) was part of the factory system.

I have not had time to start building interior yet, but hopefully will start sometime in December. A co-worker of mine at my agency does carpentry work as a hobby and he is going to help me do a bulk of the woodwork.

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#42 · (Edited)
Power station is on the way. I opted to find a discontinued (as of this year) Bluetti AC200 MAX. The big draw for me is it has a 30A DC screw on aviation plug. Most stuff now a days comes with a 10A cigarette lighter plug style. That and there seems to be a big push to the portable stations going for 48V connections.

Going to build a contained cabinet for it to the right of the entrance door and then I have an old 8" Onn tablet I am going to mount to run the app for monitoring. I will also use my NOCO shore power plug to hardwire into so I can charge it in the garage as needed, or if I am somewhere with shore power.

Will work on getting some solar panels a bit down the road, this unit can be configured for 900W max input from solar.

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#43 ·
That will be a nice addition when completed
 
owns 2017 Chevrolet Colorado Z71
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#48 ·
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#51 ·
Started mapping out the battery cabinet. Very far from anything finished, but gives you a general idea.

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Also, needed to get the electrical wiring from the utility section to the inside. Alu-cab was nice enough to put three perforated 1" cut outs in back corner. Quick hammer strike to pop them out and a box cutter to trim the carpet out of the way. Got some 1" rubber grommets off Amazon for these spots;

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Fuse block will be located on the interior and the 30A Bluetti 12v connector wired directly to it. Will power all the various lights/usb ports in the Khaya. Went ahead ran the solar connectors through for future prep. Also connected the Bluetti charging brick to my NOCO shore power connector and fed that line through as well. Leaving the brick in the utility area because it can be kind of loud.

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Now I can charge my Bluetti if I happen to be at a camp ground with shore power while I use it, or top it off while its sitting in my garage. Will be adding a DC to DC charger later on down the road, but shore power and solar will be first up.
 
#52 ·
Started mapping out the battery cabinet. Very far from anything finished, but gives you a general idea.

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Also, needed to get the electrical wiring from the utility section to the inside. Alu-cab was nice enough to put three perforated 1" cut outs in back corner. Quick hammer strike to pop them out and a box cutter to trim the carpet out of the way. Got some 1" rubber grommets off Amazon for these spots;

Image


Fuse block will be located on the interior and the 30A Bluetti 12v connector wired directly to it. Will power all the various lights/usb ports in the Khaya. Went ahead ran the solar connectors through for future prep. Also connected the Bluetti charging brick to my NOCO shore power connector and fed that line through as well. Leaving the brick in the utility area because it can be kind of loud.

Image


Now I can charge my Bluetti if I happen to be at a camp ground with shore power while I use it, or top it off while its sitting in my garage. Will be adding a DC to DC charger later on down the road, but shore power and solar will be first up.
Looks Good
Nice Set Up
 
owns 2017 Chevrolet Colorado Z71
#53 ·
Little more work today. I think the design should work pretty well. Once I decide on a top piece will be a nice place to setup the coffee maker or whatever else might need to be plugged in. There is small enough gap on the back to keep the wiring mostly hidden. Hopefully have everything wired up tomorrow. Last step will be the face trim for the cabinet.

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#55 ·
And then he said, "Let there be light", and I said, "Also power..."

Let me pre-face this by saying FEDEX can choke on a bag of dicks. It took 20 days for a specific 30A adapter cable I needed to arrive from Bluetti. I've seen in the news their crap is getting pushed in for junk service, but that is my rant.

Anywho, no more working by battery powered torch light. I've got power going to the Khaya's six main dual color over head lights, two stalk lamps, two usb hubs, and my fridge with two slots and plenty of that 30A channel left over.

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Next up is to finish the battery cabinet design then move onto L-shaped bench seating which will enclose the fridge, give me some interior storage, and be accessed by strut assisted lift tops.
 
#56 ·
I've had so many packages lost or damaged by fedex I am at the point now I offer to pay extra to not use them at all. They still have an active tracking number for me for something they lost nearly 4 years ago. Still says out for delivery. :LOL: