Bump, for someone to take 2 secs and check if the oil filler tube is fully seated at the valve cover.

 

I went to check and I can’t tell. There is a foam rubber sleeve covering the fill tube where it attaches to the valve cover. I tried to take a picture, but I can’t get it to show without taking off the engine cover.

 

Interesting regarding the sleeve-- thanks for taking a look.

 

What are you wanting to do?

 

My fill tube split at the elbow and is open. It's throwing a 'too lean' code due to the un-metered air coming in. I have the replacement tube arriving this week. Was wanting to know beforehand if the tube should be seated on the valve cover like it currently is (small space left), or if the new one should be installed fully seated with no space.

Worst case, I'll just do the install and see how the parts fit together.

 

This video shows some detail.

If I had a truck yet, Id be more helpful.

 

This video shows some detail.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXNf17izm6o
If I had a truck yet, Id be more helpful.

Appreciate it. This is about the best view in that video. I think the filler tube is fully seated here, but there's shadowing and a slight blur on the video. I'm picking up the part tonight and will replace it in the next day or two. Will report something back for future reference. Screenshot:

 

So, removed the appearance cover but the fuse box/block needs to be repositioned out of the way to get the oil filler tube to twist in and out of the valve cover; there is a twist-in style connection here. Surely someone on the forum who is in to heavy modding knows how to loosen the fuse block from the plastic mount on these vehicles? You guys seen any posts of mods that mentioned the fuse block on 2nd gen?

 

Pics of filler tube with twist-in grooves, valve cover opening, and general area with fuse block in the way.

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The tube twists in just like a cap so it should be sealed once installed. There's usually a gap between the aluminum and plastic but you probably shouldn't be able to see the O-ring in there. Maybe the "groove" on the old tube was damaged. That little metal bracket the tube bolts to might've been tweaked as well.

Off the top of my head, I think you loosen the three bolts in the top of the fuse block (they won't come out), then pry back the plastic tabs on the sides and pull the top of the fuse block up. That should give you access to three bolts below to remove the whole plastic thing. Obviously the battery should be disconnected for all this.

 

@Mallett Performance Cars, great detail, really appreciate it. You're right, the groove on the old tube was either damaged and/or someone filed down around the grooves to be able to slip in/out the tube at the valve cover without messing with the fuse block removal

. The new tube definitely doesn't go in at the same angle as the old. You can tell from these pics that the old is missing some plastic.

Regarding the fuse block, I loosed the 3 bolts on the face of the fuse panel and they eventually got loose enough to just sit there and spin in place and 'pop'. Your comment about not coming out sounds right. I wasn't sure on the next step so I stopped- will go back and try your suggestion. I assume it's stuffed full of the wiring when you pry the top off to expose the remaining 3 bolts that hold the housing? Any worry of it giving trouble and not wanting to go back together properly?

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Actually the fuse block comes out pretty cleanly. I think there are only two wires holding it down and they should have enough slack to move out of the way.

 

I know this is way late...but your post was extremely helpful. I noticed, while installing a new belt and pulleys (which i snapped a bolt doing 😳), that my gooseneck tube was leaking at the same place

I now have an educated process by which to address.

Again, thanks for starting this thread, the photos, and your follow through!!

Best.