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I did not cover the cubby. Switch panel is mounted to the back of cubby wall.
I see it now after I zoomed in a lil bit, how do you like the Auxbeam?
 
I see it now after I zoomed in a lil bit, how do you like the Auxbeam?
I've had it in use since March of 2021 and it has given me zero problems. I use all the time for my ditch lights. Other buttons are rarely used. It has never failed, and even if it did, it's cheap enough I'd just buy another one. Button colors match the rest of the interior lights well enough, fits perfect where I wanted it mounted, was easy to install and runs what I need it to. Note that I am not running any heavy amp draws on it, just accessory lights.
 
owns 2018 Chevrolet Colorado ZR2
I've had it in use since March of 2021 and it has given me zero problems. I use all the time for my ditch lights. Other buttons are rarely used. It has never failed, and even if it did, it's cheap enough I'd just buy another one. Button colors match the rest of the interior lights well enough, fits perfect where I wanted it mounted, was easy to install and runs what I need it to. Note that I am not running any heavy amp draws on it, just accessory lights.
Thanks man, that helps a lot. Your install is so clean. How was it to get from the cab to the engine bay? I've had several trucks where punching thru the firewall was easy.
 
Thanks man, that helps a lot. Your install is so clean. How was it to get from the cab to the engine bay? I've had several trucks where punching thru the firewall was easy.
There is a large wire loom that goes through near the steering column. I poked a hole in the 5 O'clock position of that wire loom and then sealed it up with black RTV sealant. I've run wires for this switch and my front mounted camera through that spot so plenty of room there.
 
owns 2018 Chevrolet Colorado ZR2
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I'll a look at that thanks. I was planning on tackling that this weekend but rain here in the Northeast headed my way. I may have a couple more questions for you if you don't mind. Thanks.
 
Really like that set up. Are any of the switches able to change a flash pattern? How difficult was it to install? Do the lights wire into the switch panel or under the hood? Sorry so many questions, just trying to find the best set up for Bulkhead.
All accessories connect at the controller under the hood. There is only one wire loom that comes into the cab and that is to connect the switch panel to the controller. It's easy to install. Hardest part is running wires so they don't look like a mess under the hood.

As for your question about changing a flash pattern, not sure since I don't know what signal is needed to initiate the flash. The output of triggering any of the switches in the cab is constant 12v. The only difference between buttons is some are reserved for higher amp draws. There is one programmable button that can be used to turn on or off a set of buttons with one push.
 
owns 2018 Chevrolet Colorado ZR2
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Long time listener, first time caller here. Just finished installing my ditch lights and put the switch in a gauge pod mount. I could expand the setup with up to three smaller switches I think but this fits my needs at the moment.

Gauge pod: Single Gauge Pod Mount 2015-22 Chevy Colorado/gmc Canyon - Etsy

Gauge pod blank insert:
XVRTJ Parts Shop Black 52mm (2 1/16") Hole Cover Plug for use with auto Gauge Holder (2 Pack) https://a.co/d/2mg5roC
 
Been following this thread a long time so I thought I would contribute. Designed a full replacement bezel that integrates the Ford upfitter switches that a couple of others have used. 3D printed with SLS Nylon through ShapeWays and painted to match interior. Lot of hours and prototypes went into the design but it came out functional and clean and has the factory look I was going for. I wanted a snap in replacement that didn't drill or alter any factory parts, so it could always be changed back to factory if I went a different route in the future.

Relay bank is mounted under the tray just in front of the center console that has the wireless phone charger on newer models. Aux constant power and illumination circuits tapped from the fuse box in the passenger foot panel so it doesn't overload a circuit and it dims with the rest of the dash.

Wanted a clean mount for my Midland mic as well so I put a teardrop to mount the mic clip and moved it toward the center just enough so it doesn't hit your knee but doesn't block the cubby.

Been running it for a couple of months and it's been perfect so far.

Image
 
Been following this thread a long time so I thought I would contribute. Designed a full replacement bezel that integrates the Ford upfitter switches that a couple of others have used. 3D printed with SLS Nylon through ShapeWays and painted to match interior. Lot of hours and prototypes went into the design but it came out functional and clean and has the factory look I was going for. I wanted a snap in replacement that didn't drill or alter any factory parts, so it could always be changed back to factory if I went a different route in the future.

Relay bank is mounted under the tray just in front of the center console that has the wireless phone charger on newer models. Aux constant power and illumination circuits tapped from the fuse box in the passenger foot panel so it doesn't overload a circuit and it dims with the rest of the dash.

Wanted a clean mount for my Midland mic as well so I put a teardrop to mount the mic clip and moved it toward the center just enough so it doesn't hit your knee but doesn't block the cubby.

Been running it for a couple of months and it's been perfect so far.

View attachment 440079
Ah the beauty of 3D printing. I would love to get one printed or buy one to replace my hand made one. One of the most satisfying tactical switch to use.

Excellent work.

Sent from my XQ-BC62 using Tapatalk
 
Ah the beauty of 3D printing. I would love to get one printed or buy one to replace my hand made one. One of the most satisfying tactical switch to use.

Excellent work.

Sent from my XQ-BC62 using Tapatalk
I put the design on the Shapeways store (one designed with and one without mic mount) in case anyone ever wanted to install the same solution. SLS printing is expensive, but you get a solid nylon part with excellent quality, resistance to heat and warping, and more durable than I can print at home at least. The rendering has a 3D image so you can rotate it around and see what the back looks like too. Basically reverse engineered from the GM part.

 
I did an S-Tech system with the 3D printed bezel for the chapstick hole. Couldn't be happier! I have the same Midland GMRS radio as the Monguse33, can you show how you mounted the mic mount? I like that location.
I modeled and printed a whole new bezel with a teardrop on that side for the Midland mic mount.
 

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