ICON Vehicle Dynamics V.S. Series 2.5” Coilover Shocks
After the first thread:
http://coloradofans.com/forums/193-...-tires-wheels-suspension/240962-smaller-tires-less-lift-other-weird-things.html
I wanted to start a fresh thread as the lift went from Levelers to Front Coilovers and Rear Springs. Still very content with leveler set up, due to my preclusion for rockcrawling and cornfields, the primary focus is full articulation, no rubbing, without sacrificing city driving, and nimble responsiveness of the truck.
Main choice of coilovers were King, Fox, and Icons. I have been a fan of Fox for years, had them on my Jeep and Tundra. I was in direct contact with Fox but luckily Fox messed up, and I had time to ponder the alternatives.
Progressive Shocks get stiffer the more compressed. They start out smooth and then tighten up.
Digressive Shocks are the opposite, being Firm at first, then smoothing out on usage.
Front Shocks: Being accustomed to Bilstien, Rancho, Fox I was familiar with the Progressive set up. After installing the Icons (which are Digressive), I don’t ever plan to go back. To each their own, but I prefer tighter handling on the highway to begin with, allowing the Canyon to not only retain its handling after the height gained from the lift, but actually respond slightly better than stock (at stock height). Turns feel solidly planted, and when used offroad, the bumps smooth out nicely. Officially I am sold and moving all my offroad vehicles over to this type of valveing going forward.
I left them on the setting they came at out of the box ( 2") Installation requires you to cut the slump hangers off the UCA, proving greater downward movement. Upward movement is still stopped by the factory bumpstops. Alignment was off on the toe but using the factory UCAs they were able to get it back within spec.
Add-a-Leafs: For the rear springs, I wanted to keep a slight rake, and was going to opt for blocks (which I had done on other trucks). I looked at SumoSprings and Helper Springs, but finally rested on add a leafs. Originally concerned over the bounciness and height on my setup, I asked AutoSprings to provide a modest lift on the lower side of their range. On install, it tighten up the back like there is a sway bar on it.
Final measurements (on 32.2” tires) puts the front fender at 39 ¼ “ and the rear fender at 39 ¾”. Full flex does not grind fenders, and full turn does not rub. Still testing all the full flex and turns, but very confident there will be no issues.
Body Lift: On top of the suspension lifts, I have installed 1.25 body lift. Where others have mentioned the need for cutting fenders with their Icons / Foxes, this current configuration seems to allow for the additional movement without hitting the fenders. I can only assume the aftermarket UCAs allow for more upward movement, and that additional body lift can prevent rubbing on the range of motion.
Icon Shocks:
Some suggestions on the installs:
After the first thread:
http://coloradofans.com/forums/193-...-tires-wheels-suspension/240962-smaller-tires-less-lift-other-weird-things.html
I wanted to start a fresh thread as the lift went from Levelers to Front Coilovers and Rear Springs. Still very content with leveler set up, due to my preclusion for rockcrawling and cornfields, the primary focus is full articulation, no rubbing, without sacrificing city driving, and nimble responsiveness of the truck.
Main choice of coilovers were King, Fox, and Icons. I have been a fan of Fox for years, had them on my Jeep and Tundra. I was in direct contact with Fox but luckily Fox messed up, and I had time to ponder the alternatives.
Progressive Shocks get stiffer the more compressed. They start out smooth and then tighten up.
Digressive Shocks are the opposite, being Firm at first, then smoothing out on usage.
Front Shocks: Being accustomed to Bilstien, Rancho, Fox I was familiar with the Progressive set up. After installing the Icons (which are Digressive), I don’t ever plan to go back. To each their own, but I prefer tighter handling on the highway to begin with, allowing the Canyon to not only retain its handling after the height gained from the lift, but actually respond slightly better than stock (at stock height). Turns feel solidly planted, and when used offroad, the bumps smooth out nicely. Officially I am sold and moving all my offroad vehicles over to this type of valveing going forward.
I left them on the setting they came at out of the box ( 2") Installation requires you to cut the slump hangers off the UCA, proving greater downward movement. Upward movement is still stopped by the factory bumpstops. Alignment was off on the toe but using the factory UCAs they were able to get it back within spec.
Add-a-Leafs: For the rear springs, I wanted to keep a slight rake, and was going to opt for blocks (which I had done on other trucks). I looked at SumoSprings and Helper Springs, but finally rested on add a leafs. Originally concerned over the bounciness and height on my setup, I asked AutoSprings to provide a modest lift on the lower side of their range. On install, it tighten up the back like there is a sway bar on it.
Final measurements (on 32.2” tires) puts the front fender at 39 ¼ “ and the rear fender at 39 ¾”. Full flex does not grind fenders, and full turn does not rub. Still testing all the full flex and turns, but very confident there will be no issues.
Body Lift: On top of the suspension lifts, I have installed 1.25 body lift. Where others have mentioned the need for cutting fenders with their Icons / Foxes, this current configuration seems to allow for the additional movement without hitting the fenders. I can only assume the aftermarket UCAs allow for more upward movement, and that additional body lift can prevent rubbing on the range of motion.
Icon Shocks:
https://wheelersoffroad.com/product/icon-vehicle-dynamics-suspension-and-chassis-gm/icon-71010-2015-colorado-canyon-4wd-coilover-shock-kit/
Add-A-Leaf:
Kevin at AutoSpring (208-362-0431) assisted in ordering my Add-a-Leafs.
Body Lift:
http://www.roughcountry.com/gm-body-lift-kit-923.html
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Some suggestions on the installs:
- Get several metal Blades for your recipricating saw / Oscillating saw in order to cut the drop bracket. Have self etching black satin spray paint handy.
- Completely remove the Brake Bracket mounted on the side of the Shock chamber. It give you more room to move around.
- Have straps and rope handy. You will need to pull the UCA down to the spindle and still have dexterity to put the bolt on. Feels a bit like mouse trap. The Straps prevent the the rotor / assembly from slopping around. I latched it to the UCA in order to prevent strain on the parts.
- A second jack doesn't hurt. I helps push the LCA up when needed. Holds your beer when its not in use.
- Take off the plastic skid and sway bar assembly. It takes 5min and gets a part out of your way in that tight space.
- If your sway is moved out of place on re-install, pull the vehicle off the stands , tighten your lugs, and your end links are probably easier to install.
- Have enough whiskey on hand.
