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ICON 2.5 Lift (Moderate Lift Part2)

122K views 189 replies 52 participants last post by  SilverMac  
#1 · (Edited)
ICON Vehicle Dynamics V.S. Series 2.5” Coilover Shocks

After the first thread:
http://coloradofans.com/forums/193-...-tires-wheels-suspension/240962-smaller-tires-less-lift-other-weird-things.html

I wanted to start a fresh thread as the lift went from Levelers to Front Coilovers and Rear Springs. Still very content with leveler set up, due to my preclusion for rockcrawling and cornfields, the primary focus is full articulation, no rubbing, without sacrificing city driving, and nimble responsiveness of the truck.
Main choice of coilovers were King, Fox, and Icons. I have been a fan of Fox for years, had them on my Jeep and Tundra. I was in direct contact with Fox but luckily Fox messed up, and I had time to ponder the alternatives.
Progressive Shocks get stiffer the more compressed. They start out smooth and then tighten up.
Digressive Shocks are the opposite, being Firm at first, then smoothing out on usage.

Front Shocks: Being accustomed to Bilstien, Rancho, Fox I was familiar with the Progressive set up. After installing the Icons (which are Digressive), I don’t ever plan to go back. To each their own, but I prefer tighter handling on the highway to begin with, allowing the Canyon to not only retain its handling after the height gained from the lift, but actually respond slightly better than stock (at stock height). Turns feel solidly planted, and when used offroad, the bumps smooth out nicely. Officially I am sold and moving all my offroad vehicles over to this type of valveing going forward.

I left them on the setting they came at out of the box ( 2") Installation requires you to cut the slump hangers off the UCA, proving greater downward movement. Upward movement is still stopped by the factory bumpstops. Alignment was off on the toe but using the factory UCAs they were able to get it back within spec.

Add-a-Leafs: For the rear springs, I wanted to keep a slight rake, and was going to opt for blocks (which I had done on other trucks). I looked at SumoSprings and Helper Springs, but finally rested on add a leafs. Originally concerned over the bounciness and height on my setup, I asked AutoSprings to provide a modest lift on the lower side of their range. On install, it tighten up the back like there is a sway bar on it.
Final measurements (on 32.2” tires) puts the front fender at 39 ¼ “ and the rear fender at 39 ¾”. Full flex does not grind fenders, and full turn does not rub. Still testing all the full flex and turns, but very confident there will be no issues.

Body Lift: On top of the suspension lifts, I have installed 1.25 body lift. Where others have mentioned the need for cutting fenders with their Icons / Foxes, this current configuration seems to allow for the additional movement without hitting the fenders. I can only assume the aftermarket UCAs allow for more upward movement, and that additional body lift can prevent rubbing on the range of motion.


Icon Shocks:
https://wheelersoffroad.com/product/icon-vehicle-dynamics-suspension-and-chassis-gm/icon-71010-2015-colorado-canyon-4wd-coilover-shock-kit/
Add-A-Leaf:
Kevin at AutoSpring (208-362-0431) assisted in ordering my Add-a-Leafs.
Body Lift:
http://www.roughcountry.com/gm-body-lift-kit-923.html




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Some suggestions on the installs:

  • Get several metal Blades for your recipricating saw / Oscillating saw in order to cut the drop bracket. Have self etching black satin spray paint handy.
  • Completely remove the Brake Bracket mounted on the side of the Shock chamber. It give you more room to move around.
  • Have straps and rope handy. You will need to pull the UCA down to the spindle and still have dexterity to put the bolt on. Feels a bit like mouse trap. The Straps prevent the the rotor / assembly from slopping around. I latched it to the UCA in order to prevent strain on the parts.
  • A second jack doesn't hurt. I helps push the LCA up when needed. Holds your beer when its not in use.
  • Take off the plastic skid and sway bar assembly. It takes 5min and gets a part out of your way in that tight space.
  • If your sway is moved out of place on re-install, pull the vehicle off the stands , tighten your lugs, and your end links are probably easier to install.
  • Have enough whiskey on hand.
 

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#3 ·
Mine is in a JKU with 37" tires....so the only thing she was concerned about was me getting too close to her Jeeps height. (She warned me she would start looking at 41" tires if I got too close).
 
#13 ·
Tires have been on for about 3000miles already, I just came off a 1.75" leveler, Air dam didnt almost make the drive home.

The latest change was .25" higher in the front, and an inch in the rear, so I actually have a little more rake than I did a few weeks ago.

MPG hasn't changed, and I actually hit an all time high for me 3-4 weeks ago. Being that I am higher in elevation than Denver, I never have seen the big numbers even since day one. But as of now I still move around 18.7 - 22.3 on my daily drives.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Well done! Looks great!! Having the identical tires you do, I must pick up the 1.25 RC body kit. I am thikning it will give me a similar look as you have and at least the possibility that I will not rub anymore. Your truck looks really good and job well done on research. Your post was very imformtive and well explained. Would you suggest I drop the 2 inch RC level or should I just leave it and add the 1.25 RC body to what I currently have?
 
#16 ·
Is the ICON kit the only ones that have Digressive springs? Ive been leaning more towards the KING kit due to the fact that the ZR2 was equipped with it. And they are a bit less expensive. I'm interested in road manners and towing abilities while being able to make a simple adjustment to be able to go off-roading with my buddy who has a raptor.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Let me see if I can help pull some of this apart.
ICON is the only digressive that I have seen. Fox, King, Bilstien, Camburg are all progressive that i know of. I have owned Fox 2.5 with reserves for my Tundra, Bilsteins on the Titan and Jeeps, great handling off road, a little softer than stock on the street. You will have people slamming all of the brands I mentioned but every single one of these will perform greatly. Btw, the Raptors have Foxes in them.

Between the washboard roads and the highway handling, I myself am sold on Icons. To each their own.

The reason Kings fit under the ZR2 is due to the remote reservoirs. And now all will fit since all now have remotes if you so choose to get the additional benefit. Dont choose them due to the concept match your style of responsiveness.

Let me know if you have more questions.
 
#18 ·
Thanks! I'm use to lowering cars, mainly Mk2 VW and am a big fan of Bilstein shocks and Eibach springs. Tho know very little about lifting. I put a small 2" OME kit on my jeep wj and thats all i know lol. Since I haven't even placed my order yet, I have time to learn and this digressive spring rate thing sounds like its what I want. I'm curious as how it does with some weight in the back.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Did you change the rear shocks to the ICON's? If not, do you plan to?
Yes on the diff drop. I added several class7 washers in order to drop it. They come in about half as thick as the suspensionMaxx spacers. But I figured I would go gradually.
Sticking with 265 eliminates a lot of issues (sway bar rub, full tuck into the fenders due tot he smaller size, more room for mudflaps, etc), if you can get away with them yes, I would stay smaller. But, to be fair, the tires look like the right size now (IMO), and if I can get 3/8" more clearance off a rock (- half of the .75) I will take it. Driving characteristics remain better than ever with this set up, and the nimbleness remains. This is mainly due to the more aggressive valving and add a leaf. @Silverspeeder10 pics of the tail end is posted, let me know if you need other angles.

Rear shocks right now are the factory. I intend to change them, and am just wrestling with the 2.0 vs 2.5 debate. Icons come with the intention of 0 - 2" lift already in their rear shocks so its a matter of stamina. As soon as I decide I will post it on here too.
 

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#26 · (Edited)
Just to be clear, the Icon rear shocks are the same height as stock and not adjustable. When they say 0-2 inch...they mean they work with a front that hasn't been lifted (keeps stock rack) and work with 0-2 inch level kits (front Icon shocks come preset at 2 inches).

If you want that extra inch of lift in the front the Icons can provide (requires Upper Control Arm from Icon or you will do damage to your shock if adjusted to 3 inch with stock UCA) then Icon sells a one inch rear body lift block.

This isn't very clear on their documentation, hope this info helps other in their purchasing choices.

I did the RC body lift (excellent product).
Have Icon 2.5 front and Icon 2.0 rear.
Truck sits the same as if it has 2 inch front level spacers.

Will be adding an Icon UCA in the future and will also add an add a leaf in the back in order for the the truck to not sit front high. I want that extra inch of ground clearance and the extra 25% of travel the Icon UCA provides.
 
#27 ·
When they say 0-2 inch...work with 0-2 inch level kits.

This isn't very clear on their documentation, hope this info helps other in their purchasing choices.
Thanks for clarifying that @deadly99 and joining in on the thread. Especially since you are to blame for me pulling the trigger on this whole set up (thanks again).

The 25% added movement is all downward btw. The bump-stop on the bottom control arm will prevent any further upward movement, but cutting the drop bracket on the stock UCA adds the extra movement.
 
#32 ·
Drew, with the knowledge you've shared through all your work of trial and error and testing, i'm confident the set up im going with will work the first time with no rubbing, all thanks to you, sir.

Without knowing the cost of the swaybar relocators and 8" links yet, i'm guessing i'll be spending about $2500 for entire set up with labor. Including tires, dyna beads and alignment.

I feel like i'll be getting by cheap

Again, thank you very much
 
#36 ·
Quick question. any idea of the height measurement from ground to base of the antenna mount? Trying to figure out if it would fit in my garage :)
 
#37 · (Edited)
Trying to figure out if it would fit in my garage :)
Will check once I land. Take your current measurement, Add 1 1/4 height (for the increase to 32.2" tires) then Add 2" (for the Icons on their factory setting height).
@ryandenver the measure on the roof by the base of the entire antenna assembly is 73"
 
#38 ·
Thx for the assist. Will just clear the garage door. Now to get on the books at High Country 4x4 for an install as I'm not automotively inclined. :)
 
#43 ·
Drew, you have mentioned the diff drop on other posts. I had a few questions about this. Why do you feel like it's important? How much did you drop it? And finally, how involved is the process. Can it be done on my driveway without too much fuss? My plan was to run autosprings 2.5 spacer and RC 1.25 body in order to fit 275/70/17's. My plan B is 2 inch autosprings and go with 265/70/17's. My use would be for mainly hunting and camping trails in the AZ desert and high country (similar to your CO highland trails). I don't do any high speed wheeling but it will need to be able to do sand/mud/rocky trails equally and be my daily commuter. I just wanted to get my ground clearance up some without breaking the bank but I also don't want to cause any CV binding or something that will cause premature failure on expensive and vital components.
 
#44 · (Edited)
Drew, you have mentioned the diff drop.... Why do you feel like it's important? How much did you drop it? And finally, how involved is the process. Can it be done on my driveway without too much fuss? My plan was to run autosprings 2.5 spacer and RC 1.25 body in order to fit 275/70/17's. My plan B is 2 inch autosprings and go with 265/70/17's. My use would be for mainly hunting and camping trails in the AZ desert and high country (similar to your CO highland trails). I don't do any high speed wheeling but it will need to be able to do sand/mud/rocky trails equally and be my daily commuter. I just wanted to get my ground clearance up some without breaking the bank but I also don't want to cause any CV binding or something that will cause premature failure on expensive and vital components.
The Diff drop I still think is important. At 2.5" putting in a 1/4" to a 1/2" diff drop may be needed to get the CV angles back into good balance. We run stock at a pretty decent angle already, so putting a few spacers help out.

In the end, for a 2" lift, I used a little more than 1/4" of grade8 washers. Any more than that would require longer Diff bolts. The process is pretty easy. Lift the vehicle so that the front tires are dangling. Trace the CV arms up to the Diff, two black bolts staring right at you facing downward (21mm or so) about a foot apart. You need to back them out and support the assembly slide spacers in, and re-bolt it up, torque them back to spec. Whole thing takes 15min (and a beer).

Before installation of the levelers, check the angles. After the 2.5" lever is put in. Start small. Put a few washers in and see if it does the trick. I am unsure but maybe 1/4" will be fine. My guess is you will be closer to 1/2 before you see it come back to OEM angles.

Of your options, even a 2" leveler and a 1.25 body lift you can fit 275 tires depending on the tires. When I did my levelers, I had only a 1.75" leveler and 1.25" body and they fit.

The sway bar relocation bracket may help with sway bar rubbing (at the extreme turn) on the 275s but really either set up you are going for is solid.
In my opinion, add the body lift no matter what, and then choose the 2" or 2.5" leveler on choice. I prefer to add less on the leveler to keep everything a bit more inline. Your truck would look exactly like mine does with the Icons.

PM me if you need to run by some scenarios first. And pics of something on the tailgate to know that the configuration worked.
 

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#45 ·
Thanks Drew, as usual your willingness to help is appreciated. My truck is on order so I won't have it until sometime next month.. It will unfortunately miss my deer hunt this year which is October 23rd thru Nov 1st. Once I do get to use it in that capacity I will definitely post some pics with something on the tailgate!
 
#47 · (Edited)
Depends on your lift choice. And what you mean by clearance.
Approach angle goes up from the Body lift, leveler lift and the tires.
Pumpkin goes up only due to the tires.

Mine went up an Inch and a half at 33" and an inch and a quarter now when I went down to 32.2" (Rear pumpkin is a little above 10 1/4)
For reference, that's over an inch above a Dodge 1500 and above the coveted Tacoma TRD-PRO by 3/4 of an inch. shhhh dont tell them, they get a little touchy about the subject.
Oh and approach angle issues are a thing of the past:
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An earlier post of factory measurements:
http://coloradofans.com/forums/193-...es-wheels-suspension/237817-factory-height-2015-twin-k-before-measurements.html
 

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