[finno]

got er working

finally got the truck started by unplugging the wiring harness from the ingition while the key is in the on position. then cut the white/blue wire and was able to bypass the passlock system. But seeing my truck had a aftermarket remote starter it started to constantly to lock doors and flash lights. Removed remote started mod and problems solved. which was perfect cause i never had a remote for the starter anyways. thank you Gmc wanted to do a diagnostic check and replace the ignition and thought that this may solve it estimated price 500$.
Cost me nothing, nothing wrong with truck or parts only design of security system. This does work and THANK YOU

 

[imendoza63]

First off, hello everyone. I'm the proud owner of a 2007 Isuzu i290 (don't laugh! couldn't afford the chevy or GMC at the moment but i knew i fell in love with that body style) I4, 2.9L 5-speed manual 77,500 original miles, and I too have been plagued with the many wonders of the delphi faulty wiring, from the constant burning out of breaklights/headlamps, windshield wipers go off at random sometimes, A/C not working on speeds 1,2, or 3, and of course our favorite, the blinking passlock light and the 10-20 min. wait.. which was the straw that broke the camels back. I don't plan to sell my truck, as it is the first brand new anything i've ever bought, and i totally love the out of it.

ok so i grew tired of being laughed at by my g/f every time we stopped for gas or trying to leave from the supermarket/restaurant/job/family's house and the truck doesn't wanna turn on. So, i came across a lot of information about bypassing the passlock. i even went as far as buying that newrockies GM bypass box, just to be told by the mechanic that it doesn't work. finally i was at my wits with this truck, and before i considered selling it i tried the wire snipping trick i learned on this board... i just did it today before leaving work and you know what... it works so far. yeah, the stupid passlock lamp stays on but it started. seeing how this post has been going on for years, i figured it was worth trying.

so yeah, for those who are thinking about trying... try it! i will keep posting updates on the performance of the truck and let everyone know how everything is going.. thanks for the tip and rock on!

 

[dentd]

I wish I had seen this thread two years ago before I installed a bypass and remote start to fix this issue. That fix wasn't that expensive, but it took nearly an entire day to complete (I'm horribly unfamiliar with vehicles in the area of this sort of thing). My truck had worked flawlessly after installing my bypass until last week when the issue has slowly begun to creep back into my life. I checked all my connections and whatnot -everything looks solid, but the issue is increasing in frequency.
Looks like this wire deal works, based on comments here, but I was wondering: How does this work?
What exactly is this wire?
Based on location, I would assume it to be from the fail-lock module or ignition (sorry, i am not able to look at my truck just now to check for myself). Starting the truck before doing the cut makes sense to send the signal to have the thing run, but why does it not check the signal the next time you attempt to start? Is the TDM locked into a "good" state somehow? Does it check each time there is a change in key status (e.g. "well, i'm running now, so i should run later just like this..")?
Will this fix remain fixed when the TDM inevitably goes bad?
I've already decided to give this fix a go, I'm mostly just curious in a professional capacity as to the actual how and why of this (I work in electronics somewhat).

On a side note: This has been the most consistently terrible vehicle I have owned, as far as design and quality.
In addition to the Passlock issue, I've had:
Faulty wiring harness.
Brake light recall.
Center/third brake light inexplicably filling with water.
Plastic seat (reclining?) handles broken.
Two bad coils.
Transmission torque converter teeth striped off (my personal $1700 fav).
A mystery leak (i.e. rain entering the cabin).
Blower 1-3 non-functional.
A/C has recently completely gone out (effectively making blower position 4 useless).
Currently misfiring/rough idling.

I have several more issues, but I can't completely rule out the previous owner causing those. I bought the thing with 35K on the odometer and loved it for the first six months -and then it has been one issue after another. The springs in back would be pitiful on a windup car. The turning radius is ridiculous. I've put quite a few miles on it, but I'm a fairly mellow driver. The thing is completely paid off (except for the frequent defects -usually a decent wallet punch per year- which are always expensive and act as an additional owner's tax) and when it runs and acts like its supposed to -I actually forget that I hate the dumb thing. If one day I ever managed to have all the bugs worked out of this thing, then I might be able to fall in love with it again. It's a shame that this vehicle has burned me on Chevy/GM though -I just can't bring myself to make such a ridiculously expensive mistake again.

 

[Texas Red]

Pass Lock NEW Solution ??

Greetings All: I have a 2007 Colorado with the dreaded problem. I have spent some time reading over the 11 pages of posts. I think I have a New and Different Solution, which I will try for myself and let you know how it works.

Looking at the wiring diagram of the switch, the Key Signal, which travels the white wire, is not generated magically. It actually originates from the " Key in Ignition Warning" ( KIW) voltage. This KIW voltage first becomes available when the key is put into the switch. This voltage is apparent to the driver as a bing, bing, bing when the key is in and the door is open. This KIW voltage is then supplied to the Random Value Resistor (RVR) only when the start circuit is energized.

I note that these vehicles work great, until they do not, and then once the dreaded pass key disease sets in, it becomes ever more apparent.
I have to ask myself why an intermittent fault would become more and more appaent with age.

It is my theory that this whole syndrome is the result of simple mechanical wear.
I have fought the ugly ign key cylinder and pass key battle earlier this year, with a 2007 Saturn of the same design. A replacement of the ign switch solved the problem, then.
However, the ign switch for my 2007 Colly is $140 at A-zone, ouch/

The way the KIW works is that the Ign Key must be physically long enough to go in and depress a Nylon / Teflon rod which then activates the very base of the ign switch, turning on the KIW voltage, making it available to the RVR.

Once the current flows thru the RVR the original 12 volts is read at the Body Control Module (BCM) as some lesser voltage. For example say the final correct voltage is 7.0 volts. If the key does not go in far enough to trip the KIW warning bell, then the 7.0 volts will never occur in the first place, and therefore will not travel down the white wire to the BCM.

My theory is that due to normal wear and tear, two things happen.

• The end of the key gets ever so much shorter
• The Nylon/ Teflon rod gets ever so much shorter as well.
• The nylon rod gets gummed up perhaps.

Eventually I believe that the KIW does not ALWAYS provide the initial 12 volts to the RVR.

If one quickly jams the key in the switch and turns BEFORE the KIW supplies the 12 volts to the RVR, then our example 7 volts is not present when the remainder of the START portion of the switch attempts to start the car.

This lack of proper voltage signal then causes the VATS to activate etc, etc.

I propose this theory because, there is a reason for everything. Finding the ultimate solution will only become apparent, once we decipher what exactly is FAILING.

These vehicles all work fine when they leave the factory so, what is changing ?

I had initially believed that the resistors themselves were changing value, due to heat or corrosion.

I like this mechanical wear idea better. It also explains the member who is able to wiggle the switch to get it to start.

I don’t believe one can solve the problem by having the original key re-made from a worn example, but if one still had a brand new key to use, this might help.

Assuming I am correct, then, a permanent fix would be to disassemble the lock cylinder and either replace or lengthen the Teflon rod. This is quite easily done.

In the meantime, I intend to test my theory by

Leaving the driver’s door open, inserting the key,
waiting to here the KIW warning bing,bing, bing

thus proving that the original 12 volts is available to the RVR—
and only then slowly working the key to engage the crank circuit.

I will let you know how it all works out. Since I am stranded once a week, I should know more soon.


Meanwhile, thanks to you all for your illuminating comments.

 

[VEGAS]

OK, so that's one "didn't happen" and one "happened to me, early on" ... Please keep replying if you have experience with this problem, but so far, the impression I'm getting is that it's quite possible I'll never have to deal with this. So, I plan to keep rolling as is until it screws up, then start the truck using the ten- or thirty-minute procedure and cut the dang wire. Thanks for the help so far!

It happens to mine a lot and is at the dealership now getting this same issue looked at plus its 120k service. Has 118k on it now, but it having some other issues so I figured what the h#ll. Any one else having overheating issues?

 

[VEGAS]

or a knocking noise when they turn on the recirculate button?

 

[GM Customer Service]

It happens to mine a lot and is at the dealership now getting this same issue looked at plus its 120k service. Has 118k on it now, but it having some other issues so I figured what the h#ll. Any one else having overheating issues?

Vegas,

I am sorry to learn that you are at the dealership for a vehicle concern. Can we be of any assistance?

Best regards,

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care

 

[imendoza63]

First off, hello everyone. I'm the proud owner of a 2007 Isuzu i290 (don't laugh! couldn't afford the chevy or GMC at the moment but i knew i fell in love with that body style) I4, 2.9L 5-speed manual 77,500 original miles, and I too have been plagued with the many wonders of the delphi faulty wiring, from the constant burning out of breaklights/headlamps, windshield wipers go off at random sometimes, A/C not working on speeds 1,2, or 3, and of course our favorite, the blinking passlock light and the 10-20 min. wait.. which was the straw that broke the camels back. I don't plan to sell my truck, as it is the first brand new anything i've ever bought, and i totally love the out of it.

ok so i grew tired of being laughed at by my g/f every time we stopped for gas or trying to leave from the supermarket/restaurant/job/family's house and the truck doesn't wanna turn on. So, i came across a lot of information about bypassing the passlock. i even went as far as buying that newrockies GM bypass box, just to be told by the mechanic that it doesn't work. finally i was at my wits with this truck, and before i considered selling it i tried the wire snipping trick i learned on this board... i just did it today before leaving work and you know what... it works so far. yeah, the stupid passlock lamp stays on but it started. seeing how this post has been going on for years, i figured it was worth trying.

so yeah, for those who are thinking about trying... try it! i will keep posting updates on the performance of the truck and let everyone know how everything is going.. thanks for the tip and rock on!

ok so heres an update from my last post. my truck has been working correctly now ever since i snipped the wire. the only problem now is that sometimes when i attempt to start it up, the engine or starter wont turn over BUT instead of waiting 10 minutes i just throw the ignition switch back to off, let go of the clutch, step on the clutch and turn the ignition again and BAM! it starts. didn't do that before... but its a **** of a lot better then waiting 10 minutes with my fingers crossed. so far its been working out. i will post again if something comes up

 

[DiNoto]

I have an '07 Extended Cab with the Passlock II problem as well. I am considering either an HP Tune to disable it or just changing out the ignition housing and fixing it right. The cut wire method is appealing, but the constant dash light will drive me nuts and I think the light mod will be too much of a P.I.T.A.!

So here is my question........ what do you think would happen if a toggle switch was installed on the blue/white striped wire? Shortly before shutting off your truck, you could turn the toggle switch to OFF and effectively disconnect the wire. That should cause the truck to start normally on the next startup. After the truck has been started again, flip the switch to ON, which would reconnect the wire and turn off the dash light!? Does anyone think this would work, or would this throw a security code mismatch and stall the truck? My guess is that something undesirable would happen. Just fishing for opinions.

 

[hmmbagodden]

Greetings All: I have a 2007 Colorado with the dreaded problem. I have spent some time reading over the 11 pages of posts. I think I have a New and Different Solution, which I will try for myself and let you know how it works.

Looking at the wiring diagram of the switch, the Key Signal, which travels the white wire, is not generated magically. It actually originates from the " Key in Ignition Warning" ( KIW) voltage. This KIW voltage first becomes available when the key is put into the switch. This voltage is apparent to the driver as a bing, bing, bing when the key is in and the door is open. This KIW voltage is then supplied to the Random Value Resistor (RVR) only when the start circuit is energized.

I note that these vehicles work great, until they do not, and then once the dreaded pass key disease sets in, it becomes ever more apparent.
I have to ask myself why an intermittent fault would become more and more appaent with age.

It is my theory that this whole syndrome is the result of simple mechanical wear.
I have fought the ugly ign key cylinder and pass key battle earlier this year, with a 2007 Saturn of the same design. A replacement of the ign switch solved the problem, then.
However, the ign switch for my 2007 Colly is $140 at A-zone, ouch/

The way the KIW works is that the Ign Key must be physically long enough to go in and depress a Nylon / Teflon rod which then activates the very base of the ign switch, turning on the KIW voltage, making it available to the RVR.

Once the current flows thru the RVR the original 12 volts is read at the Body Control Module (BCM) as some lesser voltage. For example say the final correct voltage is 7.0 volts. If the key does not go in far enough to trip the KIW warning bell, then the 7.0 volts will never occur in the first place, and therefore will not travel down the white wire to the BCM.

My theory is that due to normal wear and tear, two things happen.

• The end of the key gets ever so much shorter
• The Nylon/ Teflon rod gets ever so much shorter as well.
• The nylon rod gets gummed up perhaps.

Eventually I believe that the KIW does not ALWAYS provide the initial 12 volts to the RVR.

If one quickly jams the key in the switch and turns BEFORE the KIW supplies the 12 volts to the RVR, then our example 7 volts is not present when the remainder of the START portion of the switch attempts to start the car.

This lack of proper voltage signal then causes the VATS to activate etc, etc.

I propose this theory because, there is a reason for everything. Finding the ultimate solution will only become apparent, once we decipher what exactly is FAILING.

These vehicles all work fine when they leave the factory so, what is changing ?

I had initially believed that the resistors themselves were changing value, due to heat or corrosion.

I like this mechanical wear idea better. It also explains the member who is able to wiggle the switch to get it to start.

I don’t believe one can solve the problem by having the original key re-made from a worn example, but if one still had a brand new key to use, this might help.

Assuming I am correct, then, a permanent fix would be to disassemble the lock cylinder and either replace or lengthen the Teflon rod. This is quite easily done.

In the meantime, I intend to test my theory by

Leaving the driver’s door open, inserting the key,
waiting to here the KIW warning bing,bing, bing

thus proving that the original 12 volts is available to the RVR—
and only then slowly working the key to engage the crank circuit.

I will let you know how it all works out. Since I am stranded once a week, I should know more soon.


Meanwhile, thanks to you all for your illuminating comments.

Very interesting.

 

[DiNoto]

I have an '07 Extended Cab with the Passlock II problem as well. I am considering either an HP Tune to disable it or just changing out the ignition housing and fixing it right. The cut wire method is appealing, but the constant dash light will drive me nuts and I think the light mod will be too much of a P.I.T.A.!

So here is my question........ what do you think would happen if a toggle switch was installed on the blue/white striped wire? Shortly before shutting off your truck, you could turn the toggle switch to OFF and effectively disconnect the wire. That should cause the truck to start normally on the next startup. After the truck has been started again, flip the switch to ON, which would reconnect the wire and turn off the dash light!? Does anyone think this would work, or would this throw a security code mismatch and stall the truck? My guess is that something undesirable would happen. Just fishing for opinions.

Just did some Google searching and found the following GM Bulletin on the very subject of adding a toggle switch to enable/disable Passlock. It was written a long time ago to address Passlock I systems, but the details and functions appear to be the same as Passlock II. Can't hurt to try! http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull26.pdf

 

[djb0254]

For the PASSLOCK over-ride:

What is this HPtuner ... what is it for ... and where do you GET it? Also, what is the COST of this solution?

 

[djb0254]

With all the PROBLEMS with this Passlock System, and Intermittent Start/No-Start problems TONS of people are experiencing --

WHY is this not a RECALL problem for Chevrolet? Generally anything to do with Polution Control is Warranted for at least 10 years. Seems to ME ... if the truck won't START ... that is a POLUTION PROBLEM (with all the Chevy Colorados PUSHED OFF A CLIFF!!).

 

[WDEagle]

With all the PROBLEMS with this Passlock System, and Intermittent Start/No-Start problems TONS of people are experiencing --

WHY is this not a RECALL problem for Chevrolet? Generally anything to do with Polution Control is Warranted for at least 10 years. Seems to ME ... if the truck won't START ... that is a POLUTION PROBLEM (with all the Chevy Colorados PUSHED OFF A CLIFF!!).

Recalls are normally(?) for safety related issues.

 

[chrisquinn]

I would think being stranded for 10-20 minutes is a bit of a safety concern... maybe.
I am experiencing this now as well too. I haven't decided how exactly I plan to correct the problem but I am thankful this forum offers some insight and options. I will keep you guys posted. I have a 2007 i5 crewcab chevy colorado with 71k miles on her. It has been a pretty solid truck so far, but I did have the fan blower resister issue about a month ago. That one was a quick and easy fix (also thanks to this forum).

 

[chrisquinn]

I would think being stranded for 10-20 minutes is a bit of a safety concern... maybe.
I am experiencing this now as well too. I haven't decided how exactly I plan to correct the problem but I am thankful this forum offers some insight and options. I will keep you guys posted. I have a 2007 i5 crewcab chevy colorado with 71k miles on her. It has been a pretty solid truck so far, but I did have the fan blower resister issue about a month ago. That one was a quick and easy fix (also thanks to this forum).

I decided to purchase a bypass module. I bought this one...

Crimestopper PASSLOCK-SL2 Passlock Bypass module

My issue is not as chronic as some of the other guys, only happened a few times in the past few months (still enough times to make me really really mad) I will let you guys know how easy/not easy the install is.

 

[Goros]

Interesting. Keep us posted.

I've only had the issue twice in 9 years but I like options.

 

[chrisquinn]

Interesting. Keep us posted.

I've only had the issue twice in 9 years but I like options.

Will do. I haven't installed it yet. Here is my wire instructions for it...
http://ifar.ca/download/8031/passlock-sl2-v2_installation_guide.rev-f.pdf

My scenario is under "New generation 6". Anyone have any advice or tips before I undertake this task? Are all of the wires I need to connect to right at the connection noted in the first post of this thread?

 

[britishrich]

I would think being stranded for 10-20 minutes is a bit of a safety concern... maybe.

While I do not disagree, when we say "safety" and "recall" in the same sentence we are referring to safety issue that results in very expensive lawsuit> Think Toyota possessed gas pedal!


There are a lot of issues that should be a recall in the context of poor quality and repeated customer problems.

But if there isn't $millions in lawsuits to avoid (from people getting hurt) it does not qualify, based on current industry "norm".

If you watch the movie Fight Club Ed Norton explains this pretty well as his characters job was to do the analysis to determine the liability and wether a recal is necessary...and to manufacturers "necessary" means, least cost, regardless of quality or safety (unless some governng body steps in).

All about the benjamins.
Sad but true.

 

[Midnight]

Thanks for the how-to on this. Have had the no start problem several times this year. Might give this a try tomorrow.