[nubbins]

Better than the white bulbs but it's not like they illuminate that much really. The yellow is easier on the eyes in wet or snow. Bright white lights cause eye fatigue. I'm considering putting some yellow film on my ditch lights to test out the white vs. yellow in snow and fog since they are a lot brighter and more visible.

This is with my 5000k HID low beams and the yellow LED fogs. Normally you wouldn't see much above the low beam cutoff but the fogs illuminate that area but in a subtle and non-glaring way. I left the ditch lights off because I didn't want to blind the drivers in front of me and they really were not needed here.[/IMG]

Dayum, those HIDs are bright! Projectors really do make a difference. My reflectors kinda just scatter the SL1s all over the place, they still do manage enough brightness in the middle though.

Imma be joining you really soon on those 285 Wildpeaks. Sick of this freak snow.

 

[maxwell_hau5_caffy]

Better than the white bulbs but it's not like they illuminate that much really. The yellow is easier on the eyes in wet or snow. Bright white lights cause eye fatigue. I'm considering putting some yellow film on my ditch lights to test out the white vs. yellow in snow and fog since they are a lot brighter and more visible.

This is with my 5000k HID low beams and the yellow LED fogs. Normally you wouldn't see much above the low beam cutoff but the fogs illuminate that area but in a subtle and non-glaring way. I left the ditch lights off because I didn't want to blind the drivers in front of me and they really were not needed here.

This is partially why I haven't done a headlight replacement. For city driving, I find the factory lights sufficient, and when off road or on back roads with no street lights, my aux lighting fill the gaps.

When you get onto a dusty road, those white lights will reflect so much back at you that it will be pretty difficult to follow the trail.

 

[JMB]

Better than the white bulbs but it's not like they illuminate that much really. The yellow is easier on the eyes in wet or snow. Bright white lights cause eye fatigue. I'm considering putting some yellow film on my ditch lights to test out the white vs. yellow in snow and fog since they are a lot brighter and more visible.

This is with my 5000k HID low beams and the yellow LED fogs. Normally you wouldn't see much above the low beam cutoff but the fogs illuminate that area but in a subtle and non-glaring way. I left the ditch lights off because I didn't want to blind the drivers in front of me and they really were not needed here.
https://i.imgur.com/PVliq7m.jpg[IMG][/quote]

Thank you for that, my current LED fogs seem to fill in the same pattern, but don't exactly match the 5500k HIDs I'm running in the projector housings. I just couldn't find any imperative, trustworthy evidence of the yellow fogs actually helping or being functional. This definitely helps and I'll have to look at upgrading from the current fogs when the weather warms up a bit.

 

[F8LZ71]

Thank you for that, my current LED fogs seem to fill in the same pattern, but don't exactly match the 5500k HIDs I'm running in the projector housings. I just couldn't find any imperative, trustworthy evidence of the yellow fogs actually helping or being functional. This definitely helps and I'll have to look at upgrading from the current fogs when the weather warms up a bit.

No problem. Which LEDs are you currently running? The white LEDs I ran seemed to match up to the Morimoto HIDs well enough when viewed head on.

The photos I have are not really clear for trying to compare the output colors between the HIDs and LED fogs for here is a video.

Here is one from last weekend with the yellows

These are the new yellow LEDs I purchased
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMLJF6F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

These are the original white LEDs I had
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G6431AE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

 

[maxwell_hau5_caffy]

Thank you for that, my current LED fogs seem to fill in the same pattern, but don't exactly match the 5500k HIDs I'm running in the projector housings. I just couldn't find any imperative, trustworthy evidence of the yellow fogs actually helping or being functional. This definitely helps and I'll have to look at upgrading from the current fogs when the weather warms up a bit.

Completely anecdotal, but in a caravan on a dusty road, or heavy snow, rain, etc the whiter lights (5000k+) will reflect off the dust/snow/fog more so than amber, and this is speaking from experience.

More scientific, it has to do with the energy of each photon which essentially becomes the colors of light that you see. The higher frequencies (shorter wavelengths) will tend to reflect more, where as the lower frequencies (longer wavelengths) will not reflect as much and actually be absorbed by the medium that it is reflecting off of and convert to heat energy. The best example of this that I can think of is if you put a black plastic and white plastic on your driveway on a hot sunny day, the black plastic will absorb more of the light from the sun and convert to heat energy, and will be easier to look at, since it doesn't reflect as much of the light.

Now, you're gonna say "Well your talking about the color of the surface that we are pointing light at, not the color of the light itself". While true, but the perceived color that reaches our eye is affected by the color of the light that is being reflected. So if you're starting with a more 'blue' light to begin with, that surface will shift to a color that reflects more light. If you paint something with a more red / amber / yellow, that object will naturally look warmer and reflect less light.

In addition, depending on what is causing the low visibility, the color of what your reflecting off of will actually absorb some colors of light, and reflect others. With most colored surfaces absorbing warmer, amber lights and reflecting cooler, whiter/bluer lights.

 

[F8LZ71]

Completely anecdotal, but in a caravan on a dusty road, or heavy snow, rain, etc the whiter lights (5000k+) will reflect off the dust/snow/fog more so than amber, and this is speaking from experience.

More scientific, it has to do with the energy of each photon which essentially becomes the colors of light that you see. The higher frequencies (shorter wavelengths) will tend to reflect more, where as the lower frequencies (longer wavelengths) will not reflect as much and actually be absorbed by the medium that it is reflecting off of and convert to heat energy. The best example of this that I can think of is if you put a black plastic and white plastic on your driveway on a hot sunny day, the black plastic will absorb more of the light from the sun and convert to heat energy, and will be easier to look at, since it doesn't reflect as much of the light.

Now, you're gonna say "Well your talking about the color of the surface that we are pointing light at, not the color of the light itself". While true, but the perceived color that reaches our eye is affected by the color of the light that is being reflected. So if you're starting with a more 'blue' light to begin with, that surface will shift to a color that reflects more light. If you paint something with a more red / amber / yellow, that object will naturally look warmer and reflect less light.

In addition, depending on what is causing the low visibility, the color of what your reflecting off of will actually absorb some colors of light, and reflect others. With most colored surfaces absorbing warmer, amber lights and reflecting cooler, whiter/bluer lights.

Thanks!

I noticed after installing my ditch lights that the bottom of the flood beams paints a large patch of white light onto my white hood and this reduces my nighttime visibility. I placed a couple of dark towels on the hood and that tones down the brightness of those spots and I could see further down the road. I don't have a long term solution yet other than trying yellow film on the 4" pods. We are experiencing heavy rain and on this morning's commute I could see better with the ditch lights off because of that glare.

 

[JMB]

No problem. Which LEDs are you currently running? The white LEDs I ran seemed to match up to the Morimoto HIDs well enough when viewed head on.

The photos I have are not really clear for trying to compare the output colors between the HIDs and LED fogs for here is a video.

https://youtu.be/SWSI8OKH4iw[url] ...them yet, but WI seems to be terribly lacking in easily attainable information.

 

[maxwell_hau5_caffy]

Thanks!

I noticed after installing my ditch lights that the bottom of the flood beams paints a large patch of white light onto my white hood and this reduces my nighttime visibility. I placed a couple of dark towels on the hood and that tones down the brightness of those spots and I could see further down the road. I don't have a long term solution yet other than trying yellow film on the 4" pods. We are experiencing heavy rain and on this morning's commute I could see better with the ditch lights off because of that glare.

Unfortunately that's the nature of the beast. Nice thing about the ditch lights I've got is that its a combo pattern, where the forward facing light is in a spot pattern, and the LED's on the side are flood. So I've got them pointed about 100' in front of the vehicle about 15* out to light the sides, but the flood pattern on the side are wide enough that I can see perpendicular to the vehicle. The spot makes it fairly nice so I don't get as much hood glare. I still get some but its less prominent, and having a black truck also helps too.

side shooters:

Factory lights:

20" spot bar w/ factory lights:

side shooters w/ 20" spot bar w/ factory lights:

 

[F8LZ71]

Dayum, those HIDs are bright! Projectors really do make a difference. My reflectors kinda just scatter the SL1s all over the place, they still do manage enough brightness in the middle though.

Imma be joining you really soon on those 285 Wildpeaks. Sick of this freak snow.

They really do help and are better than stock halogen projectors which are better than halogen reflectors. The snow really makes them appear brighter though. It looked really cool and reminded me of my old FX-R projector retrofit I had on my Prius. Crazy bright!

I love good projectors.

 

[F8LZ71]

I picked up an ARB Snatch Strap and a generic 8' Tree Saver strap to add to my recovery kit. The ARB strap offers 20% stretch. That would have been very nice to have last weekend.... I'll be purchasing a Hi-Lift jack and ORK as well. Future plans include a Smittybilt winch and Midwest stealth mount bumper insert.

8' Tree Saver Strap

 

[F8LZ71]

Received the new DV8 887 wheels (17x9 +20mm offset, 32lbs) and had them installed. Unfortunately they reinstalled the 7mm spacers I had on the front so I can't say yet if the wheels will eliminate rubbing by themselves. With the spacers installed I have no rubbing even at full lock so I'm happy so far. They totally transformed the look of the truck. It would be nice if they were lighter than 32lbs but for $139/ea I'm not complaining.

*UPDATE* I removed the 7mm spacers and at full steering lock there is a feeling of rubbing or binding but I can't see the tire touching anything. I'll poke around and see if I can figure it out and report back but it appears very minor and not enough of a concern to warrant putting the spacers back on. I have full OEM turning radius restored and it feels amazing. I didn't realize how much I had given up with the 285s even with spacers.

I expected to feel the extra weight while driving but so far acceleration feels the same. The OEM Canyon SLE wheels weigh 25lbs vs. 32lbs for the DV8s. The vibration I've had since I installed the Wildpeaks is also reduced. I wonder if one of the OEM wheels had an issue. Multiple attemps at balancing including Road Force couldn't cure it.

Removed the front 7mm spacers

 

[F8LZ71]

Thank you @americastire / @Discount Tire. When I had the brand new DV8 877 wheels installed on my truck,the mounting arm protector broke and scratched all 4 wheels before the tech realized it. The scratches are not terrible but they are there. The salesman was up front about it and didn't try to hide the error. He took a bunch of pictures and said he'll talk to the manager and figure out how best to fix the problem. I politely said "mistakes happen and I'll await your call". I didn't act angry or nasty in any way. I left with a smile knowing they would take care of me. Later, I got a call from the salesman and they were going to order 4 brand new wheels for me. No hassle, just a straight up "we made a mistake and we're going to make it right". They don't even carry this brand of wheel so it's not as easy as just ordering from their distributor. That's real customer service ya'll and that's why they continue to get my business and my referrals. I declined the new wheels. It's an off-road truck after all. Instead they'll take care of me on my next set of tires. That saves both of us time and money. I really appreciate good service.

 

[maxwell_hau5_caffy]

Beeeeeefyyyyyyyy.

I kinda really wanna get wheels but the stock wheels are doing good enough for now. I've beat the hell out of them and I'd hate to get wheels and ding them up. Maybe when I go 255/80r17 i'll grab wheels since there's more sidewall to those tires.

Was gonna say though, if you did accept the new wheels, I might be interested.

Those wheels look real good. I always loved the look of bronze wheels.

 

[F8LZ71]

Beeeeeefyyyyyyyy.

I kinda really wanna get wheels but the stock wheels are doing good enough for now. I've beat the hell out of them and I'd hate to get wheels and ding them up. Maybe when I go 255/80r17 i'll grab wheels since there's more sidewall to those tires.

Was gonna say though, if you did accept the new wheels, I might be interested.

Those wheels look real good. I always loved the look of bronze wheels.

I don't think they would have let me keep the scratched wheels but honestly I didn't think of it that way. Still, I don't like the idea of taking advantage of a situation like that, even from a large corporation. It just doesn't fit my moral compass. Especially if it means one of those employees would get in more trouble if I had.

I was happy with the stock wheels for the same reasons as you. I didn't care if I beat them up and I frequently did! I just couldn't handle the rub and the loss of turning radius anymore. I knew a 0 offset wheel like most of the Methods that I liked would just shift the rubbing to the back of the fender. When I had the Bora 1.25" spacers that is where the rubbing shifted to and those don't even push the wheel out as far as a 0 offset wheel would!

For the price of the DV8 wheels I feel they are a decent investment if you decide to run a "wide" and tall tire. If you stick with a narrow tire like a 255/80/17 I'd stick with the OEM wheel or at least try it out to see if it rubs. You can always buy a custom 7mm spacer to give you a bit more room. They ran me $80 for 2 with shipping.

 

[maxwell_hau5_caffy]

I don't think they would have let me keep the scratched one but honestly I didn't think of it that way. Still, I don't like the idea of taking advantage of a situation like that, even from a large corporation. It just doesn't fit my moral compass. Especially if it means one of those employees would get in more trouble if I had.

I was happy with the stock wheels for the same reasons as you. I didn't care if I beat them up and I frequently did! I just couldn't handle the rub and the loss of turning radius anymore. I knew a 0 offset wheel like most of the Methods that I liked would just shift the rubbing to the back of the fender. When I had the Bora 1.25" spacers that is where the rubbing shifted to and those don't even push the wheel out as far as a 0 offset wheel would!

For the price of the DV8 wheels I feel they are a decent investment if you decide to run a "wide" and tall tire. If you stick with a narrow tire like a 255/80/17 I'd stick with the OEM wheel or at least try it out to see if it rubs. You can always buy a custom 7mm spacer to give you a bit more room. They ran me $80 for 2 with shipping.

I feel ya. I likely would have done the same. Sweet deal that your next set of tires are taken care of though.

I'm dealing with the rubbing that I've got right now. Its behind the wheel on the frame. I just check it every once and a while to make sure its not too rusty.

 

[F8LZ71]

I feel ya. I likely would have done the same. Sweet deal that your next set of tires are taken care of though.

I'm dealing with the rubbing that I've got right now. Its behind the wheel on the frame. I just check it every once and a while to make sure its not too rusty.

Spacers or the wheels will fix it. IMO we can't go thicker than 7 or 8mm without running low on wheel stud threads.

 

[nubbins]

The bronze wheels look absolutely killer. IMO they make the 285s look even bigger and beefier.

 

[F8LZ71]

The bronze wheels look absolutely killer. IMO they make the 285s look even bigger and beefier.

Thank buddy! I agree. It's like I went up a whole nother size. That works for me. :grin2:

 

[SBG]

bronze is good as are the Falkens

lights... I haven't read back, so this is probably discussed earlier? the "5k" describes the intensity of the light - but the lower the intensity, the darker color is visible. Thus a 4k light will appear more blue then a 6k light - but the blue is still contained within the light. To get yellow, you need a higher intensity then blue (indigo, blue, green, yellow, red, etc) but not much. A yellow light is either a filter or a light with a 4500k intensity. If a filter, often it doesn't really help but just like closing a shade reduces the outside light, it reduces the intensity and by the function of that, helps you see in polluted conditions (fog, snow, dust, etc).

the tl;dr - buy a light with a lower 'k' number rather then a yellow light.

as an aside, the HID lights of the Colorado have greater illumination potential then any LED. It kind of makes me laugh when someone is driving down the road with the LED lights, blinding everyone because the light is not focused, and actually able to see less because the light fades to blue faster then the HID they replaced.

 

[F8LZ71]

bronze is good as are the Falkens

lights... I haven't read back, so this is probably discussed earlier? the "5k" describes the intensity of the light - but the lower the intensity, the darker color is visible. Thus a 4k light will appear more blue then a 6k light - but the blue is still contained within the light. To get yellow, you need a higher intensity then blue (indigo, blue, green, yellow, red, etc) but not much. A yellow light is either a filter or a light with a 4500k intensity. If a filter, often it doesn't really help but just like closing a shade reduces the outside light, it reduces the intensity and by the function of that, helps you see in polluted conditions (fog, snow, dust, etc).

the tl;dr - buy a light with a lower 'k' number rather then a yellow light.

as an aside, the HID lights of the Colorado have greater illumination potential then any LED. It kind of makes me laugh when someone is driving down the road with the LED lights, blinding everyone because the light is not focused, and actually able to see less because the light fades to blue faster then the HID they replaced.

There's a bit of mix up going on in there. The Kelvin rating is a measure of temperature or in the case of lighting, color temperature. The higher the number the more blue the lighting is. The lower the number the more yellow the light will appear. This isn't meant to correct your info per say. I just find lighting fascinating and other nerds like me may appreciate the info.

More info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature

I think what you are trying to say is that some bulbs use a "filter" which is essentially a coating on the surface of the bulb to change the color temperature. This is commonly seen in incandescent bulbs because the light source is a basic filament through which electricity is passed. In the case of HIDs the color temperature is generally changed by using different a different mixture of metal halide salts (with noble gasses). Coatings on the glass of the bulb will reduce Lumens (measure of quantity or light intensity) and thus appear less bright so it's better to have a properly designed bulb that achieves its Kelvin rating in ways other than coatings or films applied to the glass.

The reason warmer colors work better in fog is due to the way our eye perceive light. https://undergroundlighting.com/blogs/news/yellow-vs-white-fog-lights

Which Color seems Less Stressful on the Road?
While driving on the road, you may feel that a few colors are soothing to your eyes. And, others just frustrate you. It is because human eye processes each color of light in a different way. Blue, indigo and violet light have very short wavelengths and they are difficult to comprehend by human eye. Also, blue light focuses on the front of our eyes. On the other hand, yellow color hits the retina at the right point. It is easy for us to process it. And, that’s why fog lights with yellow color are preferred by car drivers, especially in bad weather conditions. Yellow color is less frustrating for the eyes than blue or white shades. The purpose behind using selective yellow light is to improve the visibility.

One more “Glaring” Reason!
During fog, water droplets often act as mirrors and reflect the light generated by the car back into the driver’s eye. And, it makes driving in fog a real driving hazard. Many car buyers believe that yellow lights penetrate fog better. But, the reason is something else. You now know that blue light falls right in front of our eyes. When we see any object in blue light, it appears fuzzy or unclear with a blue-tone around it. It is a phenomenon called “glare”. According to a study, blue light is often the reason behind driver complaints of discomfort glare. Blue or white light against the snow or fog can be glaring for the eyes and it can make you tired soon. When you are driving through snowy roads, the white lights can tire you as well.

More on "Selective Yellow" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_yellow

The intent of selective yellow is to improve vision by removing short, blue to violet wavelengths from the projected light. These wavelengths are difficult for the human visual system to process properly, and they cause perceived dazzle and glare effects in rain, fog and snow.[7] Removing the blue-violet portion of a lamp's output to obtain selective yellow light can entail filter losses of around 15%,[8] though the effect of this reduction is said to be mitigated or countervailed by the increased visual acuity available with yellow rather than white light in bad weather.[7]

A research experiment done in the UK in 1968 using tungsten (non-halogen) lamps found that visual acuity is about 3% better with selective yellow headlamps than with white ones of equal intensity.[9] Research done in the Netherlands in 1976 concluded that yellow and white headlamps are equivalent as regards traffic safety, though yellow light causes less discomfort glare than white light.[10] Researchers note that tungsten filament lamps emit only a small amount of the blue light blocked by a selective-yellow filter,[9] so such filtration makes only a small difference in the characteristics of the light output,[7] and suggest that headlamps using newer kinds of sources such as metal halide (HID) bulbs may, through filtration, give off less visually distracting light while still having greater light output than halogen ones.[7]