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I still haven't got around to drilling this hole, but I think that might be a good thing because I just stumbled across a separate discussion on here about fuse taps. Could I not just use a fuse tap from the passenger-side fuse box? I need about 20 amps, tops, for two scanners, two remote heads and the gps antenna. Is that a crazy idea? Why?

Rob
 

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Hmmm - I'm not sure there's 20a free in there - might take some digging. If there is, then that's a simpler option. But, I'm always leery about tapping into something else if I can avoid it.

I had a local stereo shop run mine - they used an amplifier kit. Nice heavy wire, good connectors, relays/circuit breaker instead of fuse, etc. Only cost me about $100 total, and it's probably done better than I would have :)
 

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I still haven't got around to drilling this hole, but I think that might be a good thing because I just stumbled across a separate discussion on here about fuse taps. Could I not just use a fuse tap from the passenger-side fuse box? I need about 20 amps, tops, for two scanners, two remote heads and the gps antenna. Is that a crazy idea? Why?

Rob
If the remote heads are in reference to two way radios, then you should be going directly off the battery to minimize possible interference from the truck's electrical system. Seen a few posts on the ham boards about that problem. To get around the "having them live all the time" you can run the power through a relay that's activated by the ignition. Many of the automotive relays can be powered by an amp or less and are rated for 20 to 30 amp switching capacity.
 

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I run my ham through my SpOd. That way I can turn it on and off.
I’m looking for s better way to mount the remote face
 

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I've started working on the radio setup for GMRS/Ham operations.**Put in a Compactenna based on local feedback here from Ham Radio Outlet in town and lots of the local offroaders.**So far the reception and transmission is good, now I need to figure out what I want to do with a dedicated radio install.

I’m just running a cheap HT to test reception with the new setup until I can figure out what I want to do for a real radio in the cab.

I will say with the Compactenna I can hit GMRS repeaters 10 miles away pretty easily with a 5W HT.








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If the remote heads are in reference to two way radios, then you should be going directly off the battery to minimize possible interference from the truck's electrical system. Seen a few posts on the ham boards about that problem. To get around the "having them live all the time" you can run the power through a relay that's activated by the ignition. Many of the automotive relays can be powered by an amp or less and are rated for 20 to 30 amp switching capacity.


This is my plan. You can tap a relay inline using the 12-volt outlet. I plan on direct to battery for power and then a relay inside to turn it on and off with the ignition.

I’ve been running cables through a hole in the big rubber grommet above the brake and gas pedals. Works great. So far a light switch and an antenna line coming through there. One more small power cable should be easy enough. I just feed a coat hanger through from the cab, tape the end of the wire I want to it, and fish it back in. Super simple.


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Yes, the factory rear brake light uses two small screws. So The evil Mfg rear light uses 4 holes, so 4 rivnuts.

All of which would be hidden if returned back to stock.

But I used the pig tail from the stock light to make the new light "plug and play". I stil had to run a wire for the baja design dust lights from my Spod and then also the antennae line from the Ham radio. But so far Im happy with the new antennae for my uses.

Im going to a class sunday thats about using Hams out in the desert and mountains when 4
offroading. Ill bring both antennaes o see how they compare.
 

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Got the install done last night. Decided on a Yaesu FTM-400XDR as HRO was running a unbelievable sale this weekend. Mounted the head unit under the front of the drivers seat to make it easy to access the ports, give it breathing room to cool, and allow it to move around with the seat without getting crushed. It’s nice and hidden away. I also liked the Icom 5100 but it was too big, more expensive, and didn’t come with any mounts.



I mounted it for now with zip ties to test out the location, but will most likely go back and use screws into the metal bar under the drivers seat to make it more permanent. That’s gonna be a pain though.




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Got the install done last night. Decided on a Yaesu FTM-400XDR as HRO was running a unbelievable sale this weekend. Mounted the head unit under the front of the drivers seat to make it easy to access the ports, give it breathing room to cool, and allow it to move around with the seat without getting crushed. It’s nice and hidden away. I also liked the Icom 5100 but it was too big, more expensive, and didn’t come with any mounts.



I mounted it for now with zip ties to test out the location, but will most likely go back and use screws into the metal bar under the drivers seat to make it more permanent. That’s gonna be a pain though.




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Awesome!! How is the audio with the speaker under the seat?
 

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Awesome!! How is the audio with the speaker under the seat?
LOUD! I mounted it with the speaker downward facing and it is very clear. One of the reasons I went with it on the driver side instead of passenger as well. I was originally planning on running the auxiliary out to the radio for the speaker, but it's so loud I really don't need it. So I think I'm going to leave it as is.
 

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Quick question... I am studying for the test... bought a BaoFeng BF-F8HP radio with the Nagoya NA-771 15.6-Inch Antenna to get familiar with the frequencies, try to listen, etc...

I have not decided on what radio to get for the ZR2... but I am wondering if I should get the COMPACtenna and install it in the ZR2 and use that with the hand held for now?? Is it a good antenna to carry over when I get a radio for the truck?
 

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Interesting antenna, I have never used it but has some good reviews on Eham.


https://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/13030


Good luck on the test!! Continue on to at least General, that opens a whole lot of possibilities!


Here are some videos about the antenna:
https://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hamantm/6665video1a.html


Quick question... I am studying for the test... bought a BaoFeng BF-F8HP radio with the Nagoya NA-771 15.6-Inch Antenna to get familiar with the frequencies, try to listen, etc...

I have not decided on what radio to get for the ZR2... but I am wondering if I should get the COMPACtenna and install it in the ZR2 and use that with the hand held for now?? Is it a good antenna to carry over when I get a radio for the truck?
 

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I probably should have asked the question differently....

Those with HAM radios, what antenna has given you the best results?

What mount?

What location?

I will have a trifold cover... later on, a bed rack with a tent... so whatever I use has to work with that on the truck
 

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I mounted my Midland GMRS in the cubby with the cigarette lighter and USB. There is still enough room to use both of those items.


I ran the antenna wire through the 3rd brake light and sandwiched the wire at the bottom rather than top to hopefully reduce the risk of water gettng into the cab.
https://i.imgur.com/N7iFprh.jpg
 

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Installed my Icom ID-5100 in my 2017 Denali this past weekend. Very happy with the results.

Used a Greenlee chassis punch to put a hole in the roof. Ran the coax down the rear passenger pillar and underneath the rear storage area to the radio.



Radio body located under the rear passenger seat. I bought a cheap cutting board and mounted the radio to it and secured to the floor with outdoor Velcro.



External speaker attached underneath the rear seat. Drilled holes for the bolts and a hole for the speaker wire. Cant even see it when the seats are down. Speaker points directly at my right ear.



Used a razor to slice a slot in the carpet and ran the microphone and control head cable from the rear seat, along the driver side of the center console, and then up behind the USB/Aux and 12V port. Used a dremel to cut holes and installed flush mount RJ45 and RJ12 panel mounts. Microphone plugs into left side and control head on the right.



Microphone hangs on drivers side. Easy to access and does not interfere at all.



Used a Ram adhesive mount for the control head. It was attached to the bottom of the cubby hole but would not hold. Attached it to the smooth wall opposite of the USB and panel mounts and it is solid.



Power ran from the battery, through the firewall where the clutch would be on a manual transmission, along the driver side door well to the back seat, underneath the carpet to the radio.

I had to remove the storage area but it was really easy. Just unscrew the metal bolts and the plastic carpet screws and it comes right out. There are cut outs in the carpet for the metal support rod and that is where the power line and coax popped out.

I realize this install is not for everybody. You have to drill holes if you don't want wires all over the place. I wanted a clean and professional look and am very happy with the results.


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What's the part numbers for the flush mount cables you used

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