Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon banner
121 - 140 of 304 Posts
Finally got all of my parts in - short patch cable, two RJ45 couplers, etc. Pulled the switch cover and panel - thank you for the warning that it's VERY stiff - even so I thought I was going to break something... Installed the couplers, went to run the wires under the edge of the console and MAN THAT'S SNUG! It's like they used lag bolts to fasten the edges down... I figured I'd just slip the wires under the edge, then poke the ends through the holes and it'd be fine. Apparently I'll be disassembling the center console instead...
 
Finished up, although I need a different head mount - need some reaplcement sticky for my adhesive base. The Kenwood D710 is a bit simpler - both the mic and head cable are straight-through RJ45, so I used two of those - a black one for the head (invisible in the shadows) and a silver one for the mic.

As a side note, if you're thinking about doing this radio mount and want it to come out clean like this, READ THE QUOTED LINK! The pieces of it re-posted here are helpful, but the entire writeup and extra pictures were immensely helpful, as was the additional dialog.

My additional notes for this: The Kenwood D710A head has four holes in the back that can be used for mounting - they're labeled "3x8 max". I ended up actually having two of those screws (amazing luck, that was), and this RAM diamond base fits the top two perfectly. Already had a short arm, and am waiting on either a new adhesive base or need to find replacement sticky tape for mine... Used some Velcro for now, but it isn't secure.

Running the wires from under the rear seat to the panel is harder than it looks - I pulled the switch surround and panel, plus the passenger side panel, the faux-wood console topper, and the storage bin. Fed the cable under the edge of the storage box, under the Weathertech mat, through the console's rear corner (a nice little gap there), then through as far as I could - right about under the rear cupholder. Then you need to poke the cable forward under the cupholders until it pops out forward of the front one in a nice hole on the side, and from there you can feed it up to the hole behind the mount plate. (Typical wiring puzzle... If you try to run it all at once it'll end up just out of reach under some OEM cables...)

Before you try to mount the RJ45s, look at his pictures. Notice how far apart they are, how close to the USB and 12v. You'll see why when you see the large center brace behind the panel - what you can't see is the second plastic brace behind that one... If you get them too close to the center, you won't be able to put the panel back in. (DAMHIK) In my case, I could *just* slide them in, but couldn't actually move it up enough high enough to get the bottom tongues into their grooves. Had to do a teensy bit of tweaking to the braces to get enough room. Next time I'd only leave about 1/4" between the existing holes and mine.

Putting everything back together is easy enough - except for the two screws on the mounting panel it's all clips. (My "screws" were 3/16" hex-head though.) The bottom rear clip on the side panel is as tight as the switch clips, and there's no leverage to push it back in. I'm thinking it'll take a prybar against the seat. Fortunately you can't see it :laugh:

I'm using a Breedlove stake mount (passenger's rear stake hole), fed up through the drain plug under the right rear seat (drilled a small hole, silicone'd it back up after). Radio head under the center rear (will be cleaned up and under the right rear when finished). Power - I had a local stereo installer run power from the battery take-off to a circuit breaker, then to a Blue Sea fuzebox mounted on the left rear behind the seat back. Speaker mount same as
shown, although I have two - one for the Kenwood, one for my scanner.

I can't say enough about the Breedlove mount. I'm pretty sure I can pick the truck up with it, and it's the thinner "under-tonneau" version. If anyone's interested in one of these let me know - it's what I used on my Sierra, and it won't fit the Canyon with the sliding window.

Also, many thanks again to John KM4RZT for that awesome writeup. I would post pictures of my install, but I'm clumsy and nobody needs to see a Canyon with that many blood-stained panels. Once the replacement tape is here and I finish cleaning up the under-seat wire I'll post a few pics of mine. (Oh, and after I was off far too many layers of Alaskan sludge. My red truck is grayish-brown...)

Tom KL3UU
 
I went with a GMRS radio. Havent gotten the courage to drill a hole in the roof yet, but the antenna for my radio requires a ground plane, and to be at least 13" from obstructions, so I went with a mag mount, and wired the antenna cable through the 3rd brake light (had to add some weather stripping), and down the headliner to reach my radio.

Image


Image


Image


Image
how are you finding the placement to be? is it too in the way of your leg?
 
how are you finding the placement to be? is it too in the way of your leg?
I dont really ever notice it unless I'm wearing shorts and I feel the cable for the mic bump my leg. Which isnt often.
 
Just got my 2018 Extended Cab and am scratching my head for my two radio install, and have a couple of questions:

For finding the best path for the Power Lead into the cab (8/10ga wire) thru the firewall. Early in the thread is mentioned the 'reserved clutch linkage location". Where is that located? Would be nice to use an existing grommet, although I do have one of the Daystar Firewall Boots member Mansaj referred to.

The plan is to install 2 radio control heads in the usual cubbyhole forward of the shifter - a Yaesu FT7900 & Kenwood TK630, in a similar way to how member Hamride did his, except it will be pretty tight, as the Kenwood's control head is rather tall. The antenna mounts will be NMOs on the roof, mounted left to right across the roof. Is anyone having any issues with installing the mounts and pulling coax down into the rear of the cab? It looks like messing with the headliner of that thing is a pain, and better left alone. It appears there is a transverse cross-member under the cab roof that we need to avoid at hole-drilling time.

Thanks for any help,
Steve
 
Just got my 2018 Extended Cab and am scratching my head for my two radio install, and have a couple of questions:

For finding the best path for the Power Lead into the cab (8/10ga wire) thru the firewall. Early in the thread is mentioned the 'reserved clutch linkage location". Where is that located? Would be nice to use an existing grommet, although I do have one of the Daystar Firewall Boots member Mansaj referred to.

The plan is to install 2 radio control heads in the usual cubbyhole forward of the shifter - a Yaesu FT7900 & Kenwood TK630, in a similar way to how member Hamride did his, except it will be pretty tight, as the Kenwood's control head is rather tall. The antenna mounts will be NMOs on the roof, mounted left to right across the roof. Is anyone having any issues with installing the mounts and pulling coax down into the rear of the cab? It looks like messing with the headliner of that thing is a pain, and better left alone. It appears there is a transverse cross-member under the cab roof that we need to avoid at hole-drilling time.

Thanks for any help,
Steve
http://coloradofans.com/forums/385-...-2nd-gen-how-tutorials/260177-how-run-wires-through-firewall-2015-colorado.html
 
Mine so far, going to make a better mount for the antenna, was cool listening to truckers when going back from san jose to san deigo
Probably not the best place for that box. In a front end collision, that area is designed to deflect the knee downward, and prevent a fatal hip compression fracture. That radio there will capture the knee, and then bad stuff happens.

A safer place would be on the side of the center console, beneath your right thigh.
 
Hey all! First post here. Gotten so many ideas and so much help from the site I want to start helping out if possible! So here is my CB install:

First Equipment:

5ft Firestik
Firestik Antenna Spring
18' RG-58A Coax
Workman BRV1 CB Mirror Mount

The radio is mounted with Velcro. It's been a year and it hasn't fallen or peeled off the side panel. It's a quick and easy way to remove the radio if I have to. Ran the coax cable under the carpet and through the vent out to the back of the truck. I used self tapping screws to mount the antenna to the truck bed.
 

Attachments

Comet CV2ANTNCG

Can anyone post some photos of the install for the Comet CV2ANTNCG fender bracket. The one bolt I'm seeing under the hood seems a little far away from where the coax will exit the hood. Im just curious if this is just the norm with the Colorado or am I missing something?
 
The Comet CV2ANTNCG is compatible with the Colorado, It does need a few fender washers to raise it up to match the lip of the fender. I installed mine a few days ago and it worked out great. The only issue I had was, I needed to replace the fender bolt with a longer one to meet the threads. I was headed to the hardware store anyway to but some terminal rings so it all worked out.
 
Thanks so much! I assume the bolt is Metric, will have to figure out what will work. I was planning to drill and mount a Larsen L-bracket mount in the same spot (i've used them on my 1991 S-10 and 1998 Blazer, and they were fine), but this would eliminate the need to drill more holes.

EDIT - I picked one up Tuesday, and sure enough it fits my 2018 z71 Perfect! However, I do need a longer bolt, as there are not enough threads on it to make me confident it's being held down enough.

Thanks again!
 
121 - 140 of 304 Posts