Finished up, although I need a different head mount - need some reaplcement sticky for my adhesive base. The Kenwood D710 is a bit simpler - both the mic and head cable are straight-through RJ45, so I used two of those - a black one for the head (invisible in the shadows) and a silver one for the mic.
As a side note, if you're thinking about doing this radio mount and want it to come out clean like this, READ THE QUOTED LINK! The pieces of it re-posted here are helpful, but the entire writeup and extra pictures were immensely helpful, as was the additional dialog.
My additional notes for this: The Kenwood D710A head has four holes in the back that can be used for mounting - they're labeled "3x8 max". I ended up actually having two of those screws (amazing luck, that was), and this
RAM diamond base fits the top two perfectly. Already had a short arm, and am waiting on either a new adhesive base or need to find replacement sticky tape for mine... Used some Velcro for now, but it isn't secure.
Running the wires from under the rear seat to the panel is harder than it looks - I pulled the switch surround and panel, plus the passenger side panel, the faux-wood console topper, and the storage bin. Fed the cable under the edge of the storage box, under the Weathertech mat, through the console's rear corner (a nice little gap there), then through as far as I could - right about under the rear cupholder. Then you need to poke the cable forward under the cupholders until it pops out forward of the front one in a nice hole on the side, and from there you can feed it up to the hole behind the mount plate. (Typical wiring puzzle... If you try to run it all at once it'll end up just out of reach under some OEM cables...)
Before you try to mount the RJ45s, look at his pictures. Notice how far apart they are, how close to the USB and 12v. You'll see why when you see the large center brace behind the panel - what you can't see is the second plastic brace behind that one... If you get them too close to the center, you won't be able to put the panel back in. (DAMHIK) In my case, I could *just* slide them in, but couldn't actually move it up enough high enough to get the bottom tongues into their grooves. Had to do a teensy bit of tweaking to the braces to get enough room. Next time I'd only leave about 1/4" between the existing holes and mine.
Putting everything back together is easy enough - except for the two screws on the mounting panel it's all clips. (My "screws" were 3/16" hex-head though.) The bottom rear clip on the side panel is as tight as the switch clips, and there's no leverage to push it back in. I'm thinking it'll take a prybar against the seat. Fortunately you can't see it :laugh:
I'm using a Breedlove stake mount (passenger's rear stake hole), fed up through the drain plug under the right rear seat (drilled a small hole, silicone'd it back up after). Radio head under the center rear (will be cleaned up and under the right rear when finished). Power - I had a local stereo installer run power from the battery take-off to a circuit breaker, then to a Blue Sea fuzebox mounted on the left rear behind the seat back. Speaker mount same as
shown, although I have two - one for the Kenwood, one for my scanner.
I can't say enough about the Breedlove mount. I'm pretty sure I can pick the truck up with it, and it's the thinner "under-tonneau" version. If anyone's interested in
one of these let me know - it's what I used on my Sierra, and it won't fit the Canyon with the sliding window.
Also, many thanks again to John KM4RZT for that awesome writeup. I would post pictures of my install, but I'm clumsy and nobody needs to see a Canyon with that many blood-stained panels. Once the replacement tape is here and I finish cleaning up the under-seat wire I'll post a few pics of mine. (Oh, and after I was off far too many layers of Alaskan sludge. My red truck is grayish-brown...)
Tom KL3UU