I love my '24 and hope to keep it for many years, but to me three strikes and you're out. I'd have to trade that one in were it mine.

 

I love the looks of this truck; the Z71 front end/headlights are just awesome. It is a very comfy truck in my opinion, and powerful for a 4-banger. The reliability, though, is a whole difference beast. I'm afraid if I sell it privately, someone will be interested, and 'try' to go for a test drive and find out it is dead. GM needs to come through and resolve this instead of excuses. Looks bad on them, although they really could care less.

 

Have you made sure ALL fuses in ALL fuse boxes are fully seated? I've read about that being an issue.

 

No. I don't mess with anything in that truck especially with all these issues. That is for the service dept to figure out. I don't want them to think that I was the cause of the issues. It could very well be an issue but if it was, they should have the expertise to check those.

 

Sorry to hear about your issues
But, trying to eliminate anything simple like fuses not being properly seated is a good idea to do yourself
For a couple of reasons
1) You might resolve the issue yourself (saves you time and down time from the vehicle)
2) It eliminates issues that cause incorrect "fixes" to be done (which just cause multiple trips to the Dealership/Garage)

Hopefully it all gets sorted out

 

3rd time for the same unresolved issue? I think its time to "lemon law" that particular vehicle, get your money back, and any extra money you can get for the loss of use and inconvenience, then if you really love the Colorado purchace a new one hopefully without these problems or else try another brand.

 

Absolutely agree, once in awhile a vehicle comes off the line completely fk'd. Had one before, traded it in for a 100K Chevrolet truck and never looked back. Ever.

 

No matter how much I loved a truck/vehicle, as soon as I lost trust in being dependable, its out the door.
Even if its fixed, it would nag on me for a good while before I would remotely feel comfortable in it.

Lucky enough, mine has been great, but every so often when I get in after not driving it for a week, I wonder about the multiple dead battery issues I read here, my own head game. Don't know if this truck will last my normal 10 years.

 

I just filed a BBB complaint online. Will see where that goes. As of now, I have yet to hear back from the service dept on what the current issue is. UGH!

 

2024 Colorado Z71 bought new in June 2024. I had past issues with the blank screens (both), engine light coming on within a month of purchase, turn signal, front camera for adaptive cruise, etc.

Was towed to dealer on 10/21/2024 for it being totally dead. They switched out the battery. On July 5, 2025, truck was dead again. Towed to dealer. They suspected something was draining the battery. They replaced the ABS module, but couldn't program it since it also needed a new wheel sensor, which was out of stock EVERYWHERE. Didn't get the truck back until Aug 28, 2025. Yesterday AM, when to start my truck to go to work, and it clicked then nothing. Had it towed AGAIN back to dealer. Luckily all 3 times were in my driveway. I had an open case for the 2nd tow, which is still open.

I have NOT installed any 3rd-party equipment on this truck (I'm not that technical when it comes to that stuff) so it is all stock.

I am beyond frustrated with this POS! I cannot trust going anywhere with this, let alone taking my family. Anyone have similar issues? GM doesn't care, and all I get is 'We are sorry. We understand your frustration, blah blah blah'. No action, only excuses. Love making payments on something that is in the shop all the time. I have never had to take my wifes' 2015 Nissan Rogue in for issues, just regular servicing (oil, tire rotation, etc).

Anyone have thoughts on this situation. I am so beyond frustrated and crickets from both dealer and GM.

Thanks,
Rob

When you get it back, why don't you put the battery charge screen in the DIC? If the battery isn't maintaining a steady state charge of 12.6 -12.9 volts ... take it back to the dealer before it won't start the truck. Steady state is checked 2 hours after the battery has had no load. I check mine every morning. If it's not at 12.6 volts I plug in my battery maintainer. You need to have the truck in Service Mode to check it while the truck's not running. Once it's running you're reading alternator voltage at the battery. I can tell you from experience, if you've driven for more than half an hour straight and the alternator voltage is over 13.5 ... the battery was low. Low battery voltage will give you a host non-existent errors. OTA updates won't work too. I have no issues with the truck after keeping the battery charged.

 

What is Service Mode?

 

Service dept called. Battery was drained (duh!). Said battery was good, but just drained. They don't know what caused it. It was just like the last 2 times this has happened.

 

Have them show you how to put it in Service Mode and have them show you how to move the Battery Charge to the DIC if you don't know how to do it. You'll never had another battery so dead it won't start the truck. Take it back to them when the voltage drops to ~11.9 volts.

 

Just in case anyone wants to check their own fuses, here's a short I made on my YouTube channel, showing where the fuse panels are (I hadn't seen anyone else show where the interior panel is). It's really easy to check them:

-John

 

Thanks. I'll check that out!

 

Thanks. That is helpful info. I think once I get the truck back, I may get rid of it. I do love the Colorado, but this one fell through the cracks during quality control

 

Sound so me like all you have is a parasitic draw and you don't drive it enough to compensate for it. I'm retired and have several vehicles so I have the same issue. If you buy a new GM product I fear you will have the same problem. You're driving a computer that's always on. Please let us know what you decide.

 

I think my max is just under 2 weeks without driving mine, normal is a week between drives, majority very short drives. No battery problems. Parked outside with alarm on.

 

I think my own issues were from the truck being made in June and me not buying it until November.
I rarely use the maintainer now and I still only drive it for 4 miles 8 times a week.
OTAs are working and battery stays between 12.6 and 12.9 volts now.

 

It is not the fuses. They would have checked that. You need to lemon law it. Simple as that. It’s not a difficult process and like others have said, it will get you in a more reliable vehicle. Contact a lemon law attorney if you need help. Or just file the appropriate paperwork yourself.

 

Unfortunately I think OP is outside of Lemon Law territory as the truck is older than 1 year.

 

Loose fuses aren't going to drain your battery. A blown or loose fuse will actually stop the flow of electrical current (what they're designed for) unless there's dirt or something in there arcing the prongs. A loose fuse will actually help you in this situation to narrow down the cause since current won't be flowing through it. Most likely, like another person commented, you have a parasitic draw somewhere. And with today's computerized vehicles that could be anything electronic. Does your truck connect to your home wifi at all? Do you have an internet plan with the truck?? Is your phone close enough to the truck that it stays connected for some reason??

Chances of getting multiple defective batteries in a row are pretty slim but not zero. Possible weak alternator?? Maybe a short in your wiring harness?? (I've heard of harness issues before)

But sorry to hear about all of this, I'd be pissed off too. Hopefully you get it sorted out quickly but I'd be looking into lemon law or having a good chat with the dealership manager or owner about a very good value for a trade or buyback.

 

I actually tend to agree. Out of the time on the board reading about battery issues and glitches in various computer systems along with the discovery of non seated fuses, I cannot remember one owner that had a consistent glitch cured/ fixed by pushing in the fuse. I've read more > I have not seen any glitch, but I pushed in my fuses.
On the other side, I could see problems with computers if there isn't constant power for a millisecond.

 

I agree w/ both @Ryan_Monty and @Xcanuk - loose fuses would cause intermittent problems, and mine weren't 'loose', just not fully seated. I misspoke. I pushed them all in just because.

And like someone else mentioned, cars/trucks today are not what many of us older folks grew up with, it's like driving a computer now. I think about all the issues our laptops, programs, and network have at work, and how often updates are pushed out on our network, and I'm surprised we can get any actual 'work' done! And regardless if you are an Android or Apple user, think about all the updates your phone gets. And remember, GM is first and foremost an automobile manufacturer, not a software company. Not that I'm trying to make excuses for them, but...

 

@rabnpmb Do you have anything plugged into your OBDII Port?
Like one of the Instance Dongles?
They are know if they can't connect and send their data... they will just keep trying
And that kills batteries... Plus sometimes causes issues with the Can Bus Systems

 

Heard from the service dept this AM. They said whatever is causing the battery drain does it very quickly (within a day). They still don't know yet and had a test device on it last night to see if anything happened and he said nothing showed up but they know something is still doing it. They said they will focus on the radio/software and see if something there doesn't completely 'shutdown' sometimes. I told them if they had to default everything to factory, then just reset it (accounts, etc) if it helps them find out what is going on.

Nothing from me is plugged into the ODB port. Truck is stock from the factory; I haven't added anything to it except red/white/blue CHEVROLET 'decals' on the tailgate.

As I hear more, I'll update but right now, nothing.

 

Oh man! At least they're still digging into it, that's promising.

I owned a 2019 RAM 1500 for 6 years, and it ate a battery a year until I figured out through a lot of reading the forums that the power running board module wouldn't fully shut down if you deployed them using the screen and then turned the truck off (handy for washing them, for instance). Once I stopped doing that when parked at work (they stuck out farther than the bodywork, preventing door dings), my truck stopped eating batteries.

I tell that story because maybe there's some combination of actions/settings that is causing one of your computer modules to not turn off with the truck.

Good luck!

-John

 

I can verify pushing the fuses in cured a glitch. A buddy's '24 Z71 manual shift buttin had quit working. Yesterday I checked and all but 3 fuses were not fully seated. Many were about 50% seated. His manual shift is now back to working.

 

There's no fuse for that button alone. It's integrated in the electronic shifting system. All software/computer related and unfortunately a lot of the Colorado/Canyons are software glitchy.

 

Called dealer. Service Advisor said they are still working on the programming and ran into a snag and are waiting for GM TAC but they are hoping to get all programming done this evening, take it for a test drive, then let it sit overnight with test equipment to see if something draws amps. If not, they will release it back to me tomorrow. Told him that they need to call it what it is: a lemon and start looking at getting this permanently resolved as I do not trust that truck any more.

Anyway, still waiting......

 

When you do get it back, can you please let us know the production date. It seems trucks produced in certain timeframes have specific issues. Like 24's that were from May 24 to around Aug/Sep 24 had the flickering headlights. This happened to be the timeframe when the bad run of lights entered the production line. I'm betting if we looked at the issues based on truck production dates overall...we would see some trends. My theory is there were bad runs of parts and as a community if we asked for production dates and linked problems on trucks...we would get trends and be able to help others with those production dates as fixes were identified.

Or it's really late and I've got too many things happening if life ....which would mean this sounds like a crazy guy rambling. If so...ignore me.

Thanks

 

When you do get it back, can you please let us know the production date. It seems trucks produced in certain timeframes have specific issues. Like 24's that were from May 24 to around Aug/Sep 24 had the flickering headlights. This happened to be the timeframe when the bad run of lights entered the production line. I'm betting if we looked at the issues based on truck production dates overall...we would see some trends. My theory is there were bad runs of parts and as a community if we asked for production dates and linked problems on trucks...we would get trends and be able to help others with those production dates as fixes were identified.

Or it's really late and I've got too many things happening if life ....which would mean this sounds like a crazy guy rambling. If so...ignore me.

Thanks

Trends in Manufacturing do make sense
The Parts SHOULD go out in order
But, sometimes Inventory does get shuffled

I know from my Manufacturing Days and my Distribution Days (current)

 

This is from the dealer this AM:

I will say I do believe that the vehicle is now fixed, we performed vehicle wide programming per General Motors to every single module on the vehicle that would pull battery voltage. General Motors thought is that the body control module was waking up at night and taking voltage and that's why the battery died, we have performed several parasitic draw tests after the update to find no draw

 

Sounds like they are going with a Module(s) is hanging a System... Which will in this case Wake up the BCM

 

What sucks is that GM doesn't care. They want to 'band-aid' it and hope it works for a while. In the meantime, I'm driving something that could strand me and my family because they are guessing. I'll probably be lawyering up on this as I'm tired of their excuses.

 

There is so many things going on with being computerized it is more and more eliminating what it is not
So it becomes a very cold process
Which does make things seem like lack of caring

 

Another possibility is there were a number of failures and they worked through them. whether I'd give it another chance before starting the war, don't know. Confidence lost is seldom restored

 

Honestly, their response sounds like a polite long version of "cannot replicate the problem"
On the other side of the fence, I can see their (the dealer) frustration down the line, unfortunately just too many modules and computers waking up and I'm sure they follow some type of flow chart for solutions. These new vehicles are way beyond my abilities.
When ever I get hit with a problem, computers or on the construction job, I go with the most common issue, address the fix, and find out its further down the line.
In the same difference, issues arise on plenty of projects and the others in my team go for fixes that just don't work, they call me in and its up and running in seconds, pisses them off, but I just have too much experience. One of the main reasons they don't want me to retire.

That being said, as I stated before, if I lose confidence in the product itself, its out the door

 

Hearing about these issues before I bought my 2024 in March last year, the first thing I did when I got home from the dealer (literally 40mi on the odo) were:
1. Push in all the fuses under the hood an in the passenger footwell....and they were all loose to one degree or another.
2. Turned off both of the automatic OTA (Over The Air) update settings. And until those settings got somehow turned ON again by the dealer, everything was fine with my truck. Unknown to me they turned them back on after a visit to the dealer...aaaannnd it bricked by truck (dead battery) about 2 weeks later.

As mentioned, loose fuses shouldn't cause a battery drain (unless it's arcing, in which case you've got MUCH bigger problems), but it might very well cause voltage fluctuations which would lead to glitchy screens/black screen of death etc.

The automatic OTA settings will DEFINITELY brick your truck if they're on.

Get a trickle charger SPECIFICALLY designed for these AGM batteries and use it religiously if your truck sits for even a week at a time.

So, maybe both your major problems with the truck are easily fixed by you without having the (incompetent) dealer having to look at it.

Best of luck!