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People that live in Sub zero temps can warm up their coolant without running the main engine in the winter. Saves wear and tear and makes them easier to start.


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Exactly so. Much more efficient than an engine block heater. Plus you get heat into your cab much faster if you are not waiting for the engine to warm the coolant.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Can someone explain why this is a good thing? it's been 102, 101 and it's 105 degrees today
I burn about a liter of diesel fuel getting the truck to normal operating temps without starting the engine or plugging it in. The engine block is warmer and more even heat distribution compared to an electric block heater. For most people it's overkill. But for people that leave their truck parked for 7-8 days in -40* weather not being plugged in, this kicks ass. Plus I can start it from my cell phone before I get even close to my truck.

I believe they were originally designed for the heavy equipment like bulldozers and what not that are ran in remote areas in the winter.

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I burn about a liter of diesel fuel getting the truck to normal operating temps without starting the engine or plugging it in. The engine block is warmer and more even heat distribution compared to an electric block heater. For most people it's overkill. But for people that leave their truck parked for 7-8 days in -40* weather not being plugged in, this kicks ass. Plus I can start it from my cell phone before I get even close to my truck.

I believe they were originally designed for the heavy equipment like bulldozers and what not that are ran in remote areas in the winter.

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Ah, I see. nothing for us southeners lol:grin2:

I miss the snow. we only get a good 2 months of it, and we have to drive about 2 hours to see it
 
Secons question, is the 2nd battery hooked up to the battery and charging tandem? or how is the 2nd batt charged?
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Secons question, is the 2nd battery hooked up to the battery and charging tandem? or how is the 2nd batt charged?
My second battery is installed with a "cole hersee" battery isolator. The alternator charges the main battery until the voltage comes above a certain voltage, then the isolator allows power to the second battery to top it up.

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My second battery is installed with a "cole hersee" battery isolator. The alternator charges the main battery until the voltage comes above a certain voltage, then the isolator allows power to the second battery to top it up.

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Any information on how this works with the twins? installation and mechanics of it =) I am not very electrical smart but I am curious
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Any information on how this works with the twins? installation and mechanics of it =) I am not very electrical smart but I am curious

The video below is from a different manufacture with a "manual over-ride" button but the charging and isolation portion of it works the same. They simplified the wiring drawing for the demonstration video but its a pretty basic video. You can skip to about the 1 minute mark.



As for feedback on my system since its been installed, it works great. I haven't had a low main battery yet after running my heater in the cold winter temps up here. The only issue I had was from the way I crimped one of the large wires. It must have been a little lose and built up some heat and corrosion over time. Eventually it got hot enough that it baked the wiring and resisted electrical conduction, it started melting the insulation on the last few inches of the wire. The truck had a charging system fault and went into a mode where it reduced the electrical load on the truck (no heated seats and certain other high current convenience things). The cooked wire was removed from the circuit and truck wired up like it came originally (only one battery) until I was able to repair the wiring properly.
 
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The video below is from a different manufacture with a "manual over-ride" button but the charging and isolation portion of it works the same. They simplified the wiring drawing for the demonstration video but its a pretty basic video. You can skip to about the 1 minute mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlNTqEqRF0Q


As for feedback on my system since its been installed, it works great. I haven't had a low main battery yet after running my heater in the cold winter temps up here. The only issue I had was from the way I crimped one of the large wires. It must have been a little lose and built up some heat and corrosion over time. Eventually it got hot enough that it baked the wiring and resisted electrical conduction, it started melting the insulation on the last few inches of the wire. The truck had a charging system fault and went into a mode where it reduced the electrical load on the truck (no heated seats and certain other high current convenience things). The cooked wire was removed from the circuit and truck wired up like it came originally (only one battery) until I was able to repair the wiring properly.
This is Amazing. it seems very fail proof
 
What size isolator did you go with? I've read that it has to match or exceed our amp output


side question, how many amps do our alternators put out? on the 2.8
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
What size isolator did you go with? I've read that it has to match or exceed our amp output


side question, how many amps do our alternators put out? on the 2.8

I installed a "Cole hersee 48122". It's rated at 140 amps. As for the current capabilities of our alternators I am not sure.
 
Had one of these installed in my 2008 2500hd hooked up to my cellular command start. Was awesome, able to start it and ran it for an hour or so, would use about a liter of fuel to bring it up to temp, have instant heat when starting the truck at -35*C and it would keep the truck closer to the operating temperature than the truck would get to at high idle.

Since they can be mounted in any position I put mine under the coolant container. I wanted to keep the coolant lines as short as possible.
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I then changed the routing of a wiring harness and ran the exhaust tube down to the flex pipe. This is insulated to reduce the chance of damaging any wires that are in close proximity. Outer sleeve on insulation was only 38*C after an hour of running tonight.
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The timer is mounted in the glove box. Basically for me this is useless other than retrieving codes for when it doesn't start.
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The manual switch I don't have a pic of but it's mounted in the storage area in the front of the console, just to the left of the USB port.

To help with any low battery voltage/capacity issues I added a second battery under the hood too. It is an optima D34M I believe. Had to relocate the horns just below the bracket so they are beside the frame. Also there is a wiring harness that had to be moved higher a few inches to make room for the battery. To make this battery fit a couple of fins had to be trimmed on the front mounts of the air box. The air box is still totally sealed and no extra holes or modifications were done to it.
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There is a battery isolator mounted on top of this plate. Also there is 3/16" of rubber below and on top of the battery.
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As far as I know nobody else has installed one for their mini-max yet.


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I used that spot for my air compressor!
 

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Reviving this a bit. I have a Webasto TSL-17 taking up space on a shelf in my garage since I took it out of my diesel Landcruiser. It ran awesome for 12 years and I want to install it in my new Canyon Duramax.

I'm getting a 2018 Canyon Denali in 3 weeks and here's my question:
Will installing it void the warranty? This may be a stupid question but in 30 years of driving I've never owned a vehicle with a warranty, just old trucks that I maintained myself.

I imagine that there are all kinds of sensors that monitor fuel flow, coolant flow/temp and electrical state of charge...wondering if tapping into the coolant, installing a fuel line and adding a new circuit to power the webasto will mess up the trucks computer and/or void any warranty...

Any thoughts?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I cant see it voiding warranty as long as it doesnt stop the coolant flow. The fuel pickup tube needs to go into the tank as there was no other spot I could find to take fuel that wouldn't be pressured up with the key on.

P0181 might give you trouble, it is the fuel temp sensor. When the key is turned on the ECM does a self check. After sitting for a predetermined amount of time (8-12 hours from what I could tell), when the key is turned on it compares the temps of the fuel, intake air and engine coolant temp, they should all be within a certain % of eachother. With the external heater mine must have been seeing a warm coolant and intake air temp and thought the fuel temp was faulty. It would only cause a check engine light and disable the command start. No performance issue, no limp mode.



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