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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had one of these installed in my 2008 2500hd hooked up to my cellular command start. Was awesome, able to start it and ran it for an hour or so, would use about a liter of fuel to bring it up to temp, have instant heat when starting the truck at -35*C and it would keep the truck closer to the operating temperature than the truck would get to at high idle.

Since they can be mounted in any position I put mine under the coolant container. I wanted to keep the coolant lines as short as possible.


I then changed the routing of a wiring harness and ran the exhaust tube down to the flex pipe. This is insulated to reduce the chance of damaging any wires that are in close proximity. Outer sleeve on insulation was only 38*C after an hour of running tonight.


The timer is mounted in the glove box. Basically for me this is useless other than retrieving codes for when it doesn't start.


The manual switch I don't have a pic of but it's mounted in the storage area in the front of the console, just to the left of the USB port.

To help with any low battery voltage/capacity issues I added a second battery under the hood too. It is an optima D34M I believe. Had to relocate the horns just below the bracket so they are beside the frame. Also there is a wiring harness that had to be moved higher a few inches to make room for the battery. To make this battery fit a couple of fins had to be trimmed on the front mounts of the air box. The air box is still totally sealed and no extra holes or modifications were done to it.


There is a battery isolator mounted on top of this plate. Also there is 3/16" of rubber below and on top of the battery.


As far as I know nobody else has installed one for their mini-max yet.


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First time I've ever seen a battery mounted vertical. Interesting...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
First time I've ever seen a battery mounted vertical. Interesting...
AGM batteries can be mounted in any position

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AGM batteries can be mounted in any position

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I get that. Just never seen an example where someone has mounted one vertically.
 

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Either Espar or Webasto. Installing a diesel fueled engine coolant heater is one of the smartest things a diesel vehicle owner can do to upgrade their vehicle.

Saves fuel, saves wear & tear on the engine, way more power than the block heater can ever put out, and no more requirement to find an electrical outlet.
 
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Either Espar or Webasto. Installing a diesel fueled engine coolant heater is one of the smartest things a diesel vehicle owner can do to upgrade their vehicle.

Saves fuel, saves wear & tear on the engine, way more power than the block heater can ever put out, and no more requirement to find an electrical outlet.
Good to see you on here!
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did you do your own work on this or have a shop install it? If a shop, which one?
Thanks!
I installed it myself except for the fuel pick up tube. Had to drop the fuel tank for that so we did that at the dealer.

I think i found a way to control it from my cell phone that I am happy with. Doesn't cost much per month and does what I want. If I was living in the states I would just use a GSM relay, but we can't get a cell plan that cheap up here in Canada.

This is what I found.
https://mycarcontrols.com/

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also forgot to mention that I did sleeve the small fuel line in a 1/4" nylon line used for controlling air bags. Figured it gives a bit more protection from rocks and vibration.

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Which model Espar did you use - the D5 or...
And did you use a version with an external fuel pump?

I take it there is no auxillary fuel port to tap into on top of the fuel pump module?

Scott.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Which model Espar did you use - the D5 or...
And did you use a version with an external fuel pump?

I take it there is no auxillary fuel port to tap into on top of the fuel pump module?

Scott.
Mine was a 12 volt d5. The exact model I can't remember but the d5 diesel units only come in 12 and 24 volt options from what I know. This one and my last one both have external water and fuel pumps.

There is a spot to take fuel from if you also install a solenoid, it's on the fuel/water filter thing on the frame. It's a 1/4" npt connection but when you turn the key on its pressurized to 80 psi and will constantly push fuel into the heater at a crazy rate with no solenoid. I couldn't find any other fuel spot that wouldn't require major work.

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Can these be run with an in-tank lift pump or do they need to draw their own pump? Is that why you had to run a separate line to the tank? My jeep only runs at 9 psi or so so I was kinda curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Can these be run with an in-tank lift pump or do they need to draw their own pump? Is that why you had to run a separate line to the tank? My jeep only runs at 9 psi or so so I was kinda curious.
I don't know if 9 psi would be enough to push through the heater fuel pump, would have to try, I would imagine it would push through.

If your jeep has a flexible fuel hose on the return line you can do what I did on my old one. I cut the flexible line and put a plastic T fitting in there and fed the heater with that. The return line on all in tank pumps that I have seen put the return system near the bottom of the tank, so the heater pumps the fuel from the tank using the return line.

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Mine was a 12 volt d5. The exact model I can't remember but the d5 diesel units only come in 12 and 24 volt options from what I know. This one and my last one both have external water and fuel pumps.

There is a spot to take fuel from if you also install a solenoid, it's on the fuel/water filter thing on the frame. It's a 1/4" npt connection but when you turn the key on its pressurized to 80 psi and will constantly push fuel into the heater at a crazy rate with no solenoid. I couldn't find any other fuel spot that wouldn't require major work.

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So I'm moving up to Alaska from the lower 48, i figure im enough mechanically inclined to do this install just one question. Pertaining to fuel pick up, what kind of solenoid are you referring to? I don't really want to pay a stealership to drop my tank and install a line. So I need to figure out how to step that pressure down. Any help, I know this is kind of an old thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I decided to pay to drop the tank and install the tube because if/when the solenoid fails the heater would be filled with diesel and it would be pouring out the exhaust. Dropping the tank seemed better in the long run. If you wanted a solenoid you would have to wire it up to a timer too, it would have to be closed when the key is on and also stay closed until the fuel pressure drops down in that line, I think it takes a few minutes.

As for am update on the heater, I haven't had any major issues with it. It has set off a couple of codes in the truck after the truck sits for a day or so and the heater comes up to full temp. When they key is turned on it compares a bunch of temp sensors to the coolant temp. With the coolant temp being warm and the others cold, it throws a code. I plan on removing those checks later this year when I delete the emissions stuff.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you still want to use a solenoid you will have to find a 12 volt solenoid that is rated for diesel fuel usage. A regular solenoid will have the internal stuff swell up in time.

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Can someone explain why this is a good thing? it's been 102, 101 and it's 105 degrees today
 
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