The brand/model you want doesn’t have a manual online anywhere?

 

Any of the manuals are just going to have generic "hook it to your battery" pictures, not the dumbass bizarro battery terminal we have in the Twins.

Took a couple of washers to clamp down the 2/0 full copper wire I ran for my winch to the anemic terminal. I rewired the winch with 2/0, as well. No undersized wiring for me... except directly at the battery. One day I'll have a custom pigtail done.

 

Thanks @Thunderbear - that's more or less what I was concerned about.
The ground terminal at the front is nice. But the positive end going to the battery blows goat bawls. I guess I'll have another fabrication project.

I can see setting up a 3" metal bar with 3 1" in diameter and 1.5" tall terminal studs along its length. Mask the studs and paint the bar with lineX or some other rubberized paint and then make a 6" battery cable to go from the battery to the first stud on the bar. Then bring in the original cable that went to the battery to the second stud and the winch to the 3rd.

The only thing left will be to secure the bus bar to something so it doesnt just bounce around in there. Using a piece of lexan would allow you to secure the bar to it and then secure the lexan next to the battery.

I'll get it figured out this weekend.

 

But the positive end going to the battery blows goat bawls. I guess I'll have another fabrication project.

Wire the POS to a master kill switch so you can put it somewhere handy and clean, then go to the winch

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/35/Manual_Battery_Switches/HD-Series

 

There are a couple threads that contain lots of information about different wiring solutions for winches...

This thread talks about the battery and power distribution as it's main topic:
https://www.coloradofans.com/forums...s/201-2nd-gen-electronics-audio-lighting/268826-power-distribution-battery.html

This thread about the Midwest Overland Winch bumper has wiring information also starting later in the thread:
https://www.coloradofans.com/forums...nd-gen-appearance-body/357434-colorado-canyon-winch-bumper-now-available-5.html


-Curtiss

 

I found the best place to get cables and connecters was welding supply places. They have fine strand copper wire cables that are much more flexible than normal cables.

 

Before starting this post I would like to say I know very little about electrical or wiring so if something I've done looks stupid please speak up.

That being said here are a few pictures of my wiring set up. I've put a blue sea systems double fuse block off one of the studs on the battery terminal and used that to connect my winch.

If you're wondering what's up with the quick connects, it's because previously I had the winch set up on a trailer hitch receiver mount. Instead of re-wiring the winch end I just added a pigtail with quick connect off my battery. I generally leave them disconnected until I need to use the winch.

 

This is similar to what I did. I've explained my reasoning for a 300 amp marine bus fuse in the other thread linked above and won't go into those details. Suffice it to say it is an excellent solution. HOWEVER, in you case it looks as though you've taken you power from a 250 amp fused point. If you used the 300 amp fuse as I did that 250 will blow first. The problem here is that fuse is not replaceable. I also suspect it will cripple your truck. Consider attaching to the other side as illustrated here.

Also consider reading the above linked threads as they have lots of discussion the pro's and con's of different solutions. I'd really hate to see you get even more stranded trying to use your winch to get out of an already bad situation.

-Curtiss

 

Well, you've wired it to a fused takeoff point, intentionally or not. The way it's wired now, that 250A fuse will pop if your winch draw exceeds 250 amps, which most major ones will do on a hard pull. My Tigershark 9500 will hit 340 amps, according to the specs. You'll definitely want to carry a couple spare fuses if you keep it wired that way. Usually winches come with fuses, did you also install those?

 

Thanks for your input, since this picture was taken I've actually moved the positive end on the pigtail over to the battery terminal for just this reason.

 

I added an Anderson SB175 powerpole connector to the winch (after cutting off all but 1.5‘ of wire), and then had a 7’ cable made using 1 gauge wire (parts list attached). This about matches the resistance of the original wire on the Smittybilt 10k K20. This probably ends up being similar to the Smittybilt 8’ 35220 connector kit, but it wasn’t clear what wire gauge or connectors they used so I had my own made up (with the aid of a TEMco hammer lug crimper). Because of the quick disconnect there is no need for any further switches. Just wire direct to the battery terminals. Also, I replaced the hook on the winch with Smittybilt’s shackle, but in retrospect I wish I’d used a Factor 55 flatlink shackle. [P.S. I like phxdsrtrat's reasons for adding a fuse at the battery so I've since added a Blue Sea 300A fuse and carry a spare. The setup came in handy after I got myself stuck while in CO in August.]

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I added an Anderson SB175 powerpole connector to the winch (after cutting off all but 1.5‘ of wire), and then had a 7’ cable made using 1 gauge wire (parts list attached). This about matches the resistance of the original wire on the Smittybilt 10k K20. This probably ends up being similar to the Smittybilt 8’ 35220 connector kit, but it wasn’t clear what wire gauge or connectors they used so I had my own made up (with the aid of a TEMco hammer lug crimper). Because of the quick disconnect there is no need for any further switches. Just wire direct to the battery terminals. Also, I replaced the hook on the winch with Smittybilt’s shackle, but in retrospect I wish I’d used a Factor 55 flatlink shackle.

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You are severely under the amp rating of that winch. Maximum draw per Smittybilt is 425 amps. A 175 amp pole may work for light duty, but put a load on that winch and you're going to have problems. You may wish to consider using 0 or even 00 cable also. Again, the 1 will work with that length, but it won't provide maximum amps at the winch's 425 max draw.

 

@Zathras - Thanks for the pictures and ideas. Taking Tom's feedback in to account I'll upgrade a few parts and throw in the master kill switch as well.

I'll start ordering **** as soon as this small invoice gets paid. Can't wait.

 

First: this is some great info. I'll be reading the linked thread as well. Thanks for the reference.

Second: I noticed this the first time but didnt mention it: the only thing I'm not digging in the pictures is the use of a black wire on the positive side. I'd be concerned that if somebody else was trying to work on my truck (say I'm in the hospital) they'd not realize what was done and screw something up.
On the otherhand, looking at what I typed: I think I just described the average dealer mechanic even if a red wire was used.
Nevermind.

 

I think the black wire you are referencing is the factory starter wire. Not sure what the wire color is underneath the protective sheath but it is factory. It's fused at 300 amps with a non replaceable factory fuse. The 300 amp bus fuse is the white thing. Here's a pic of it wired to the winch with the cover closed.

-Curtiss

 

This is about to go from an acedemic discussion to a real engineering project.
My Smittybilt X20 will be here Monday and I just ordered a MWOI Winch Mount which will hopefully arrive before next weekend.
My plan right now is to get the wiring prepared before we start on the actual winch setup. Once I see what I'm working with I'll probably have a few more posts. I want a secure reliable install that has a nice clean appearance.
Last thing you want with a winch is an install that when you need it fries your truck's electircal system.

 

I don't know what other winch makers recommend but Warn recommends a direct connection to the battery. I used a 350 amp Anderson connector that doubles as a connection for a 25' jumper cable set.
I located the winch controller box to the engine compartment and the winch only has power when I connect the Anderson. The Anderson 350 amp is continuous and it should handle 450+ amps for short periods. My Zeon 12S shouldn't be taxed so hard as to pull over that amperage.

 

I am looking at adding a remote terminal closer to the winch.

 

I replaced the factory terminal and ran the wire to the new terminal block.
Knu koncepts ultimate terminal block for both positive and negative. Also gives me extra connection points.

 

Another non-electrician here. Check this picture of my setup. Smittybilt x20 12K wired "direct to battery" with the exception of the hop on the battery side of my 100A breaker for the rest of my accessories. The winch cable is the one that still has the + label on it. Ground is wired to the front factory ground stud.

Anyone feel I should bypass that interim stud and go straight to battery or am I good?

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