Maybe make some out of 2x10 boards? You can get the exact height you need by adding a layer of plywood if needed.

 

Buy 4 and pin them side x side.
I do the same thing, back down the hill onto the ramps until level.

 

Keep the ramps centered with the tires and you'll be alright.

I'd get the rhino ramps though. 3 inches isn't even worth buying.

 

I think it is safe... although the "4,400 lb. weight capacity" is lower than the GVWR of the truck, you wont have 100% of the trucks weight on them. Definitely get yourself a pair of good chocks, like these ROBLOCKs. I've spent a lot of time underneath my truck and 4 past vehicles on a set of Rhino Ramps and can 100% recommend them.

Are you looking to level it out for oil changes or for something more, like transmission/transfer case ? For oil changes, I'd say it doesn't matter that much.

 

I made a set of 2x10 ramps a few years ago. Sturdy. Heavy. Works great.

 

I could see a guy easily driving over that if he's not careful.

 

Yes, you should always use a spotter when using ramps like this. That's also why I have the little piece at the top of the ramp as a wheel stop. It wont help if someone goes full throttle up the ramp, but slowly and controlled it should be ok. I've used mines dozens of times without issue. I always have my wife spot me as I drive up.

 

Just figure out the best angle where the drain plug will be at the low point. Then position the vehicle to match the low angle. No ramps needed. If the crankcase drain plug faces the rear of the pan then back it up the incline. Transmission has no drain plug to drain it. Unless aftermarket installed. Differentials same method. Depending on year the rear differential has no drain plug. Some do. Another method is use a floor jack under the rear differential to level the truck then add two jack stands for support. Depending on how much incline you have you can use blocks of wood under the wheels once you know the angle initially figured out using the floor jack under the differential. Sometimes a slight angle will be to your advantage when draining fluids. The fluid will lean and drain towards the drain hole. Many options. Good luck.

 

Depends on the fluid change. Oil changes? Incline towards the drain plug is better for draining, then fill with the correct amount of oil. Some people like to use the dipstick to get the level "just right" but dipsticks are approximate anyway, if you drain well and fill with 6 quarts of oil then you'll be fine.

For everything else I would ensure the truck is level. You don't want to over- or under-fill the diffs or transmission if you're servicing them yourself. T-case doesn't need to be exact.

My $0.02.

 

+1 on rhino ramps if ramps is what you need.

I have 2 sets, both I want to say are 16K rated (assume total vehicle weight is what they mean) but one is a little narrower. Bought different times. I'd recommend the wider version just for ease of use considerations, which I believe I got at Auto Zone, others at Walmart. Maybe $60 or so.

Have put an F350 long bed on 'em. Real handy to have 2 sets at times. In pic I was undercoating.

 

Rhino ramps are too tall for my incline. Looking to level for diff and t-case change. I might just use the idea to lift with jack to level and support with jack stands.

 

Pieces of 2x6 or plywood are going to be a lot more convenient and easier/safer, if you don't want to just roll up a ramp a bit then put it in park w/ the brake set.

 

With Rhino ramps, you don't have to drive all the way to the top. You can drive up as much as you need to achieve level and then you always have a taller ramp for whenever you need it. Personally, I don't like the idea of jack stands on an incline if I can avoid it.

 

I had to do the same to do my diff front and rear still wasn’t quite level but close. Maybe I will put some weight in the bed to get it closer when I do the transmission. I did have a lot of room to work.

 

 

I don't think you need ramps for most of the fluid changes ... except maybe for the transfer case .

Still good to have them for various other tasks but not absolutely necessary .

 

Using ramps is exactly how I level mine for oil changes. I back the truck up on to them and it's almost dead level. Plus it gives me a bit more room underneath to look around for potential issues.

A warning about ramps however! 20 years ago I had a truck up on ramps to do a trans filter/fluid change. The front tires were pressed firmly against the ramp's bump stops. When I was removing the bolts from the trans pan, the cable bracket, which was attached via the pan bolt dropped and took the trans out of park. The stored kinetic energy from the tires pushed the truck off the ramps and onto my shoulder/chest. Luckily, my daughter heard my screams, and while I held the trans cable in position, my wife drove the truck off me. Broken ribs, collar bone and shoulder blade were the result along with a lengthy hospital stay and recovery period. It was a situation where I had done this type of work multiple times and never had an issue, but I had never had a trans kick out of park before either. All could have been avoided with wheel chocks which are now a standard for any off ground vehicle work I do.

 

Wow, fortunate to be alive today. I always chock the wheels and set the parking brake. Sadly way too many people don't even think about the parking brake anymore.

 

Rhino ramps has a slot on top. It shouldn't roll back.

I wouldn't recommend those other ramps. A little trickier to get up. I actually spun one out.

 

That reminds me - even the Rhino ramps I roll up on in 4 low. More control.

Bad things happen faster and with more ferocity the faster you do them

You can spit them out too, you want to give them a good kick into place. Then slowly roll up - I tend to stop so many times in park with brake set, inching forward a bit at a time, getting out to verify it's all going well.