[kalikraven]

It didn't list the crush sleeves, and I've read of people having to order them during the install process so I went with ECGS's Yukon kit. If Nitro Gear are including them now that's great because the crush sleeves go for about $20 each.

Nitro Gear & Axle Master Install Kit For Dana M200 Front for Chevrolet & GMC Colorado/Canyon 2015-2022 | Nitro Gear & Axle

Buy this Nitro Gear & Axle Master Install Kit For Dana M200 Front for Chevrolet & GMC Colorado/Canyon 2015-2022 at Nitro Gear & Axle.

www.nitro-gear.com

Tech Note:
Use with D32-456-NG Front Reverse M200 Ring & Pinion

Kit Contents:
Pinion Bearing & Race x2
Carrier Bearing & Race x2
Stub Axle Bearing x1
Pinion Seal x1
Pinion Shims
Pinion Nut x1
Pinion Preload Shims
Carrier Shims
Silicone Sealant x1
Marking Compound x1
Brush x1
Loctite x1

The kits assembled by Nitro Gear & Axle only use the highest quality bearings available from Timken & Koyo. Nitro Gear & Axle does not use any cheap Chinese bearings. By using only Timken & Koyo bearings just like all of the OEM vehicle manufacturers you can be assured that your differential will be reliable, durable, & quiet for years to come.

 

[C21964]

This is what I received.

 

[kalikraven]

Yep they put the crush sleeves in it. That's good to know.

 

[C21964]

Yep they put the crush sleeves in it. That's good to know.

I also ordered extra crush sleeves from GM, along with new cover gaskets (OEM since they don't require sealer).

I did have a question for anyone who has the ring and pinion set(s) in hand right now. I expected to see markings on the face of the pinion indicating starting point of shims relative to the old pinion. These would be like +3 or +2 or 0 for example. I don't see any markings like that on either the DANA/Spicer or the Nitro I have. Do yours have that?

 

[kalikraven]

So the eLocker showed up today and I may have a problem. The Dana 4.10 Ring gear wont fit on it. After looking at some other photos here on the site it look's like the 4.10 gear is a little bit thicker than the 3.42 gears. Does anyone have confirmed part numbers that work? Or is this normal? There's quite a gap between the gear and the bottom of the carrier is this a press fit?

This is a stock ZR2

 

[kalikraven]

I also ordered extra crush sleeves from GM, along with new cover gaskets (OEM since they don't require sealer).

I did have a question for anyone who has the ring and pinion set(s) in hand right now. I expected to see markings on the face of the pinion indicating starting point of shims relative to the old pinion. These would be like +3 or +2 or 0 for example. I don't see any markings like that on either the DANA/Spicer or the Nitro I have. Do yours have that?

I didn't see any markings on the ring or pinion gear from Dana I should get the Nitro Gear front one later this week.

 

[C21964]

So the eLocker showed up today and I may have a problem. The Dana 4.10 Ring gear wont fit on it. After looking at some other photos here on the site it look's like the 4.10 gear is a little bit thicker than the 3.42 gears. Does anyone have confirmed part numbers that work? Or is this normal? There's quite a gap between the gear and the bottom of the carrier is this a press fit?

It should be "a little bit thicker" because the pinion diameter is smaller so the ring gear needs to move towards the pinion center line. If you see the really high numerical gears th epinion diameters are really small in comparison which as you would imagine makes them more prone to breakage.

The fit should be pretty snug, but should be drawn together by even tightening of the ring gear bolts, making sure the gap is equal all around as you tighten. I would plan on using temporary alignment studs (12mmx1.25 studs) to ensure it is aligned perfectly with the bolt holes.

BTW I guess it is pretty common for pinions to not have marking on the face to help with shim selection. I plan on buying or making a set of assembly bearings that would be a slip fit on the pinion for shim selection. Then once pinion depth is dialed in press on the actual bearing assemblies.

 

[kalikraven]

Ok I feel better hearing that. Snug like put one in the oven and the other in the freezer? I might have a dial caliper at work that I can use to measure the tolerances, definitely not a drop in fit and I couldn’t find anyone talking about pressing it on.

Thanks

 

[C21964]

Ok I feel better hearing that. Snug like put one in the oven and the other in the freezer? I might have a dial caliper at work that I can use to measure the tolerances, definitely not a drop in fit and I couldn’t find anyone talking about pressing it on.
Thanks

This is what the GM shop manual says
"Tighten the new ring gear bolts alternately and in stages, gradually pulling the ring gear onto the differential case. Tighten the ring gear bolts in sequence to 170 Nm (126 lb ft)".

Although it refers to "new" ring gear bolts, I believe most reuse the ring gear bolts. I am using new carrier bearing cap bolts however.

 

[C21964]

Wanted to mention that for anyone with an affected model (through mid 2019) should check for this condition. Even if it was not causing noise I would not want to reassemble with this condition. Could be covered under warranty, but need to have the dealer disassemble to confirm condition, so that gets tricky if it is not making noise.

Rear Differential Whining Sound – TechLink

gm-techlink.com

 

[C21964]

Ok I feel better hearing that. Snug like put one in the oven and the other in the freezer? I might have a dial caliper at work that I can use to measure the tolerances, definitely not a drop in fit and I couldn’t find anyone talking about pressing it on.
Thanks

I did find a video where the guy heated the ring gear to 200 deg f and it slid right on. Couldn't hurt to try that but of course you need gloves. Another video regarding pinion bearings, heated bearing to 400 deg F and had the pinion in the freezer and it slid on and seated easily. So yeah, thermal expansion can be your friend.

Just for reference, a dial caliper is a handy tool, not really the best for this type of measurement where you are talking about a couple of thou interference. A accurate micrometer and internal snap gauge (telescoping gage) used properly (it takes some technique) will give you the best results if you really need to know like setting up an engine and need to accurately know bearing clearances.

For the pinion setup I have extra bearings (same exact make and part number as for final assembly) which I will be honing out for slip fit on the pinion. You need three bearings (not 4) as one part number fits both front and rear pinion, (just different end).

I have read reviews and talked to potential installers in the general area around here and so far not found anyone I am 100% comfortable with, so will be doing this install myself. Have almost all the proper tools collected so far. Don't need the truck for now, so I will just take my time and get it right.

 

[kalikraven]

This one?

 

[C21964]

This one?

Nice to have a small convection oven in the shop. Same idea as the one I saw.

 

[rotaryenginepete]

This one?

I like how it's resting on his press LMAO.

 

[C21964]

Started on the gear swap. Got the differential out this morning. Pattern looks good as you would expect for factory setup. The backlash was a bit higher than expected ranging from 0.010" - 0.011" around the gear. GM specs 0.003-0.006 so that seems like it opened up a bit more than I would expect from break-in (other suppliers specify more initial backlash). Getting the axles pushed in and C-clips out was a lot more fiddly than I remembered from last GM differential I worked on, maybe the G80 is a little different in that area than the posi unit I last worked on.

 

[C21964]

Thought it might be of interest to post photos of the "Dana T" OEM 3.42 Ring and Pinion along with the "Dana T" 4.10.
Both ring gears are 41 tooth, but the 4.10 version is thicker to account for the smaller diameter (10T) pinion vs OEM (12T).
BTW, the OEM bearings are identical also to those supplied in the Nitro kits (at least on my 2018) being KOYO USA.
Got one (of three needed) setup bearings completed. Slides on with a just a bit of resistance. I used two flapper sanders and yes it takes "a while" to remove a couple of thousandths from the ID to eliminate the press fit.

 

[kalikraven]

Did you sand the ID of the ring gear? I made my appointment for my rear install. I’ll pull the front driveshaft this weekend until the front gets done.

 

[C21964]

Did you sand the ID of the ring gear? I made my appointment for my rear install. I’ll pull the front driveshaft this weekend until the front gets done.

No, the fit on the original was tight but not a hard press fit so no need to modify the new gear. Worst case I will heat it prior to installation as we discussed above. It needs to have a light press fit ideally to center it perfectly.

 

[C21964]

It didn't list the crush sleeves, and I've read of people having to order them during the install process so I went with ECGS's Yukon kit. If Nitro Gear are including them now that's great because the crush sleeves go for about $20 each.

Sooo, on the subject of crush sleeves, these effing things are a real bear to compress!

I finally got everything dialed in and was doing a final install with an uncompressed crush sleeve, and even using pipe extensions on long breaker bars I cannot get the firigging thing to compress. I have heavy 3/4" drive on order as my long 1/2" drive bars just flex without being able to provide enough torque. Been searching online and seen reference that it can take 1200 ft-lbs to compress it using the pinion nut. Really worried I would strip the threads, but apparently that is normal.

I can't find a "crush sleeve eliminator" for the Dana M220 as the pinion shaft diameter is much larger than the conventional Dana 44, but the length is different than the Dana 70. If anyone knows of a source that would be great.

 

[kalikraven]

Good Luck with your install! I get my rear Dana 4.10 installed tomorrow at 4WP. I'll let you know how it goes.