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Discussion starter · #41 · (Edited)
Still not much to report. I needed to address some exhaust clearance issues with the airbags. The main culprit being the big ol' fat resonator Chevrolet decided to install within close proximity to the passenger side leaf pack. Had a shop perform a reso-delete and then dump the exhaust right before the axle. This was more or less a stop gap arrangement until I can decide on an aftermarket exhaust down the road (if I even bother). The only two 'performance" mods I have planned are an AEV snorkel and something like a banks pedal monster.

My main concern was droning, even with the factory muffler still in place, especially with it dumping right behind the cab. I just wanted to report that short of a little louder cold start (barely if that) - I am experiencing no noticeable audible change with the resonator completely deleted even at cruising speed.

I know everyone's hearing range is different and short of me developing mystery headaches on long trips, I am kind of curious why this resonator (and of this size) was part of the factory system.

I have not had time to start building interior yet, but hopefully will start sometime in December. A co-worker of mine at my agency does carpentry work as a hobby and he is going to help me do a bulk of the woodwork.

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Discussion starter · #42 · (Edited)
Power station is on the way. I opted to find a discontinued (as of this year) Bluetti AC200 MAX. The big draw for me is it has a 30A DC screw on aviation plug. Most stuff now a days comes with a 10A cigarette lighter plug style. That and there seems to be a big push to the portable stations going for 48V connections.

Going to build a contained cabinet for it to the right of the entrance door and then I have an old 8" Onn tablet I am going to mount to run the app for monitoring. I will also use my NOCO shore power plug to hardwire into so I can charge it in the garage as needed, or if I am somewhere with shore power.

Will work on getting some solar panels a bit down the road, this unit can be configured for 900W max input from solar.

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Power station is on the way. I opted to find a discontinued (as of this year) Bluetti AC200 MAX. The big draw for me is it has a 30A DC screw on aviation plug. Most stuff now a days comes with a 10A cigarette lighter plug style. That and there seems to be a big push to the portable stations going for 48V connections.

Going to build a contained cabinet for it to the right of the entrance door and then I have an old 8" Onn tablet I am going to mount to run the app for monitoring. I will also use my NOCO shore power plug to hardwire into so I can charge it in the garage as needed, or if I am somewhere with shore power.

Will work on getting some solar panels a bit down the road, this unit can be configured for 900W max input from solar.

View attachment 477530
That will be a nice addition when completed
 
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Well the good news is, the main culprit behind the ZR2 lower payload limit is the more "off-road" inspired suspension. Tackling that up front realistically bringing it in line with the base model WT specs for payload capacity.

I've also been confronted with the other obvious question; "Why did you get a ZR2?" Besides getting the dual lockers and some other ZR2 specific visuals, I don't have a good answer for anyone wondering that. (ha!)
Just tell people the LED headlights did it for you.
 
There's a post with some advice on this site regarding the installation of a popup camper on the Colorado. In addition to the frame suports, there was an issue with the bed frame bolts needing a mod. The post is here:

Hey, that's me!

For some background, I believe the bed mount cracking is a long bed issue. The frame flexes between the front two sets of mounts which puts a lot of stress on that extra set of forward bed mounts. They are not present on the short bed, so that's a non-issue. I'm planning to add more bracing to help reduce this and handle the camper better.

OP, I would definitely do what you can to stiffen the frame. I know the 3rd gen's don't have the hole that the 2nd gen's had, but you are still flirting with a ton of weight on a flexy frame. Better to have more bracing, than not enough.

Also, I find it hard to believe that an outfitting company couldn't figure out a way to make the forward camper mounts work. Lifting that thing that high should be a crime. Either way, looks good!
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Started mapping out the battery cabinet. Very far from anything finished, but gives you a general idea.

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Also, needed to get the electrical wiring from the utility section to the inside. Alu-cab was nice enough to put three perforated 1" cut outs in back corner. Quick hammer strike to pop them out and a box cutter to trim the carpet out of the way. Got some 1" rubber grommets off Amazon for these spots;

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Fuse block will be located on the interior and the 30A Bluetti 12v connector wired directly to it. Will power all the various lights/usb ports in the Khaya. Went ahead ran the solar connectors through for future prep. Also connected the Bluetti charging brick to my NOCO shore power connector and fed that line through as well. Leaving the brick in the utility area because it can be kind of loud.

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Now I can charge my Bluetti if I happen to be at a camp ground with shore power while I use it, or top it off while its sitting in my garage. Will be adding a DC to DC charger later on down the road, but shore power and solar will be first up.
 
Started mapping out the battery cabinet. Very far from anything finished, but gives you a general idea.

Image


Image


Also, needed to get the electrical wiring from the utility section to the inside. Alu-cab was nice enough to put three perforated 1" cut outs in back corner. Quick hammer strike to pop them out and a box cutter to trim the carpet out of the way. Got some 1" rubber grommets off Amazon for these spots;

Image


Fuse block will be located on the interior and the 30A Bluetti 12v connector wired directly to it. Will power all the various lights/usb ports in the Khaya. Went ahead ran the solar connectors through for future prep. Also connected the Bluetti charging brick to my NOCO shore power connector and fed that line through as well. Leaving the brick in the utility area because it can be kind of loud.

Image


Now I can charge my Bluetti if I happen to be at a camp ground with shore power while I use it, or top it off while its sitting in my garage. Will be adding a DC to DC charger later on down the road, but shore power and solar will be first up.
Looks Good
Nice Set Up
 
owns 2017 Chevrolet Colorado Z71
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Little more work today. I think the design should work pretty well. Once I decide on a top piece will be a nice place to setup the coffee maker or whatever else might need to be plugged in. There is small enough gap on the back to keep the wiring mostly hidden. Hopefully have everything wired up tomorrow. Last step will be the face trim for the cabinet.

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I'm hoping to get a GFC in the near future and plan on doing something similar to my truck. I have the same fridge as you and have a Jackery 1500 that I use to power it. Keep up the good work!
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
And then he said, "Let there be light", and I said, "Also power..."

Let me pre-face this by saying FEDEX can choke on a bag of dicks. It took 20 days for a specific 30A adapter cable I needed to arrive from Bluetti. I've seen in the news their crap is getting pushed in for junk service, but that is my rant.

Anywho, no more working by battery powered torch light. I've got power going to the Khaya's six main dual color over head lights, two stalk lamps, two usb hubs, and my fridge with two slots and plenty of that 30A channel left over.

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Next up is to finish the battery cabinet design then move onto L-shaped bench seating which will enclose the fridge, give me some interior storage, and be accessed by strut assisted lift tops.
 
I've had so many packages lost or damaged by fedex I am at the point now I offer to pay extra to not use them at all. They still have an active tracking number for me for something they lost nearly 4 years ago. Still says out for delivery. :LOL:
 
owns 2019 Chevrolet Colorado Z71
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Meh, switch up tasks for a minute. Decided to start on the fridge/storage area.

This is the back wall portion of what will eventually be an overall L-shape sitting area. As mentioned access will be from the top, thinking a simple piano hinge setup should work. The fridge will have plenty of 'breathing room" once I am done.

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And then he said, "Let there be light", and I said, "Also power..."

Let me pre-face this by saying FEDEX can choke on a bag of dicks. It took 20 days for a specific 30A adapter cable I needed to arrive from Bluetti. I've seen in the news their crap is getting pushed in for junk service, but that is my rant.

Anywho, no more working by battery powered torch light. I've got power going to the Khaya's six main dual color over head lights, two stalk lamps, two usb hubs, and my fridge with two slots and plenty of that 30A channel left over.

Image


Image


Image


Next up is to finish the battery cabinet design then move onto L-shaped bench seating which will enclose the fridge, give me some interior storage, and be accessed by strut assisted lift tops.
I've had so many packages lost or damaged by fedex I am at the point now I offer to pay extra to not use them at all. They still have an active tracking number for me for something they lost nearly 4 years ago. Still says out for delivery. :LOL:
It not always the Fault of FedEx, UPS or Whatever Carrier.
Depending on where the packages are being shipped from. The Companies are Filling Trailers with Packages and Carriers Pick Up the Tailers and take them to be sorted.
Some trailers are filled Floor to Ceiling with boxes
 
owns 2017 Chevrolet Colorado Z71
It not always the Fault of FedEx, UPS or Whatever Carrier.
Depending on where the packages are being shipped from. The Companies are Filling Trailers with Packages and Carriers Pick Up the Tailers and take them to be sorted.
Some trailers are filled Floor to Ceiling with boxes
They flat out told me it either got lost loading for final delivery or someone knew what it was and took it.
 
owns 2019 Chevrolet Colorado Z71
Regarding potential for frame flex, you might try a simple test by sticking modeling clay on the cab in the top gap between the cab and the bed. Coat one side of the clay with silicone oil or equivalent so it won't stick, then after your next trip check to see how deep the imprint (if any) is. I bought the frame stiffeners for my second gen but after checking for any frame flex fully loaded and towing (freeway undulations are probably worst case for flex), the apparent flex was very minimal, so never bothered with the stiffeners.
 
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