You're doing it right so far. Take your time. Get a magnet just in case you drop a bolt. 1/4" drive socket and wobbly extensions will help with the stubborn access to the top thermostat bolts.

Its not difficult, just kind of annoying.

 

I posted on here about my thermostat, luckily my warranty covered it. Or the dealer would've charged almost $1,200. Good luck and take your time. Not hard just need to track bolts.

 

1,200$! That's highway robbery.

 

Just take your time it is pretty simple
I had mine Thermostat go at 112K
I took my sweet time and was completed in under an hour

 

Hardest part is removing the engine cover. Easy on mine because I have a K&N intake and don't have to deal with that. I replaced the ECT sensor when I did mine. Inexpensive and I was already in there. It's not hard with the right tools. A short 1/4 Inch Drive x 10 mm Universal Joint socket for the thermostat housing and a 15 mm ratcheting combo for the sensor.

 

I think this is a typical bad Thermostat. After driving to work on a cool 10 pm evening, I noticed my radiator fan running on high, and my engine thermostat gage all the way down on a 160. After turning the engine off, The fan ran for fifteen seconds before shutting off. I popped the hood and felt the top radiator hose and inspected the radiator reservoir. It was all warm, but definitely not as hot as it should've been.

This would be good news because it means GM used a fail safe t-stat and when it failed it failed in the open position so coolant can still flow thru.

If a t-stat failed in the closed position that would prevent coolant from circulating altogether which would cause the engine to overheat badly causing engine damage.

I've run fail safe t-stats for years so it's good to see that the OEM t-stat remains in the open position when it fails

 

It took maybe 2 hours. Had to stop and use bathroom, make coffee and constantly try to figure out where I set my tools down. I fumbled around trying to get at the thermostat bolts with everything other than a 1/4" drive jointed socket, which you all pointed out was what was needed. So I jumped in the superscoop outhouse (Subaru outback) and zipped to the auto parts store to get one. All I had were SAE standard sizes.

It wasn't hard to do, nothing like removing the intake manifold from my old 06 Colorado with the 5 cylinder 3.5, by which is still running well and strong with 275K + on it.

Identical part. I hope this one last more than 40K miles.
Roy

 

Glad you got it completed
Hopefully you will get a longer time out of the new thermostat
My Factory one lasted 112K
The replacement is at almost 28K now

 

Welcome to the Thermostat Failure Club lol. Wait till your plastic blend door socket fractures 🤬🤬🤬

 

That Blend Door is a Failure that I hope to not get

 

Not too bad a job even for mine which required removing the supercharger. I have given up being surprised by seemingly ridiculous auto repair labor costs. Feel sorry for those of modest means and no mechanical ability, they are really getting priced out of car ownership by repair costs.

 

Blend door?? What's that?

Blend door?? What's that?

It's the flap that controls your temp for your AC/Heat.

 

That Blend Door is a Failure that I hope to not get

Anybody try putting some epoxy around this plastic piece before it starts cracking?

 

I think most have done is put on the clamp before it does happen and only on certain MY

 

and only on certain MY

And... what is MY exactly?

Maybe it would be good to use some commercial grade epoxy and once it sets then put a clamp over it or maybe a stainless steel wire tie put on while the expoxy is not yet cured so it'll help hold the clamp or SS wire tie in place.