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Same thing on the wife’s Canyon AT4X. Went out of town for ski trip and when got back 2 weeks later, dead dead. Had to tow to dealer. They said just bad battery so replaced at 4500 miles. Last week, same issue. Gone for a week and come back to dead truck. Tow again. This time said alternator not putting enough. Waited a week for one to come. Replaced battery again. We will see……. Tempted to not drive it for a week and see.
 
Same thing on the wife’s Canyon AT4X. Went out of town for ski trip and when got back 2 weeks later, dead dead. Had to tow to dealer. They said just bad battery so replaced at 4500 miles. Last week, same issue. Gone for a week and come back to dead truck. Tow again. This time said alternator not putting enough. Waited a week for one to come. Replaced battery again. We will see……. Tempted to not drive it for a week and see.
Sorry to hear about that. Sucks when they try to fix something by process of elimination which can be timely and costly. So far so good on mine. Got it back from the dealer a week ago and so far new battery is working fine. Of course it’ll wait until I’m in the middle bum-f**k before it goes dead. We’ll see, fingers crossed.
 
Could the problem be the Alternator? I had to have a battery replaced a few months ago because auto stop/start never worked. I decided to hard wire a battery tender to it and have been plugging in usually each day sometimes it after 2-3 days of driving. I have noticed when plugging it in each day it takes at least 8 hrs to reach a full charge and if not plugged in for a couple days it will take 24 hours to reach a full charge. These were all on local trips usually 12-20 miles each day and shot trips 3-5 miles each. Yesterday I left with full charge drove 25 miles before turning off then 25 miles back and pluged it in. I was plugged in 17 hours and only reach 80% charge by the next day.
My Camaro on the other hand always reaches full charge within an hr or less after doing the 50 mile round trip and on short trips will recharge 100% in a few hours.
It seems the alternator is not strong enough on the Colorado or the programing for it.
 
Trickle chargers will take longer and % charge estimates will be lower when there is an active load on the battery - and there is always a load of some kind on these trucks. Even locking/unlocking the door will wake up the BCM etc. With a battery monitor in place I have seen a battery voltage of 13.7V (just off trickle charger) drop to 12.5x V just by unlocking and opening the door. If I dont touch the vehicle and the BCM goes back to sleep after 30+ minutes, that voltage will be back to ~12.8-12.9V.
 
Since I had the dreaded dead battery about a month ago (for the first and only time), I made sure those stupid automatic OTA update settings were off and put it on a trickle charger every week. So, after sitting for 3 full days in the garage every week (not my daily - I drive it on weekends), I've been consistently reading 12.4-12.5VDC when I put it on the trickle for the weekend. Seems a tad low for maybe what these AGM batteries SHOULD be, but still what I'd consider normal for a lead acid battery. It's been firing right up with zero issues. I went under the hood and pushed all the fuses in again, a couple were just a little loose, and I think they might have been pulled during the "testing" (whatever that actually was) that the dealer did when the battery died.

I guess the things I'd recommend are, make sure these automatic update settings are turned off, and CHECK THEM again after EVERY visit to the dealer, and after EVERY actual update, and randomly. I think that those damn settings are THE culprit. Also, buy a good jumper and keep it in the truck, and at least get a trickle charger too. When mine died, I bought a 85A Schumacher charger/jumper to charge and start it from a dead battery (4VDC), a Schumacher 2000A jumper, and a 4A Battery Tender trickle charger. I'm lucky in that mine is garaged and I can keep it on a trickle during the week, you may have issues keeping it charged if it's parked outside. Note that these are AGM batteries, and you need to use chargers suited for them.
 
I guess the things I'd recommend are, make sure these automatic update settings are turned off, and CHECK THEM again after EVERY visit to the dealer, and after EVERY actual update, and randomly. I think that those damn settings are THE culprit.
I've had the "automatic download" for updates turned off since day one, assuming once its downloaded, the truck will try to install and its what causes the battery issues. I will check for updates manually every blue moon, so far none. I also found out the dealer does not check via the truck for OTA's even if you ask them, confirmed with my last visit 2 weeks ago.
What I have not read, if there is an update available after checking manually, what does the truck do / ask ? Download later? Download now? Other? I rather the download / install be done on my terms if one is available.

I've been on vacation for 2 weeks, truck use next to nill. Used it yesterday and what I noticed is my battery idiot light came on for a few good seconds at start up (separate and not the idiot light general test). Just hope it stays cool so I can hook up my trickle charger, its been 90F the past weeks.
 
Couple of thing...

AGM batteries are still lead-acid chemistry. The voltages will be essentially the same as the old flooded cell type. Maximum 2.1v per cell, 12.6volts.

The dealer doesn't need to check for OTA updates, they are going to check and update via wired connection to the truck, which is a much more reliable way to transfer data.
 
Couple of thing...

The dealer doesn't need to check for OTA updates, they are going to check and update via wired connection to the truck, which is a much more reliable way to transfer data.
Didn't know that, while I like my dealer, at times I just have my doubts with them and what they actually check.
I wish that updates via wired or not, there would be a date marker for both.
 
I purchased a used 2008 GMC Sierra with 55k miles on it going down the highway and I also experienced something similar the gauges went haywire, my door locks were going up and down and wipers going off. I pulled over immediately and turned off the vehicle. Let it sit for a few minutes and started the truck with no issues. Kept driving for about 25 miles as I was getting off my exit turned on the right turn signal and the same thing happened again. Being a used truck I went to AutoZone and got the battery checked and they said it was bad. So, I replaced it and didn't have any problems for about 3 months. Driving on the highway I tried setting the cruise control and it wouldn't engage, a few seconds later the gremlins started again same as above. I took my truck to the local Chevrolet dealer and spoke to the head mechanic. He remembered seeing a bulletin about a negative cable terminal not being crimped down sufficiently which was creating grounding problems. He replaced my negative battery cable and never had a problem again. Ask your dealership if this could be a culprit, good luck!
 
I had the same dead battery happen a couple days ago. I'm guessing it's the Chevy/GMC battery drain issue due to Over The Air (OTA) updates getting hung. Here's a link to the GM Service Bulletin as posted by the NHTSA:

Thank goodness it was in my garage and I was able to pop the hood and get it onto a trickle charge. Seems okay for now, but got an appointment at the dealership in a few days.
 
Couple of thing...

AGM batteries are still lead-acid chemistry. The voltages will be essentially the same as the old flooded cell type. Maximum 2.1v per cell, 12.6volts.

The dealer doesn't need to check for OTA updates, they are going to check and update via wired connection to the truck, which is a much more reliable way to transfer data.
Still lead acid, BUT, the older chargers either will not charge them or may/will damage them. I tried to use my high-end (for the time) 30 yr-old Sears charger (that still works great on regular batteries) on it when my truck bricked, and that was a definite no-go. I gave it to my neighbor for his SXS.
 
Having experienced the OTA dead battery issue TWICE both times when going to the airport, i still wonder if the 24 Denali will start when I walk up to it.
Has anyone had this happen in the last six months or has this been resolved?
I bought a Schumacher lithium jump starter I keep in the truck at all times, in case it bricks. I make sure the BS OTA settings are off, and put it on the Battery Tender for a day or 2 as mine sits a couple days every week as it's not my daily.
 
As promised, here's an update on my 2024 Colorado ZR2.

Straight away, in my case, battery drain issues were 100% due to a hung/corrupt OTA update.

I took my ZR2 to the dealership yesterday for regular 12,000 mile oil change/tire rotation. I told them to please check Bulletin No.: 24-NA-206 as posted by the NHTSA. Link:

My sevice rep was skeptical at first, but after attempting to work on my truck and after talking to other service reps, they realized that other vehicles have recently been towed in with dead batteries. They finally connected the dots! They called an emergency quick meeting of all service reps in the dealership and shared the details.

They performed a hard-connected factory reset of the whole computer system according to the service bulletin. Surprisingly, on my way home from the dealership my truck seemed to be running smoother again and I noticed that it started doing the engine auto-stop at stop lights (which I wasn't a fan of to be honest, but at least it was functioning as designed again).

They indicated that the OTA update would attemp again automatically in a couple of days. Sure enough... this afternoon it successfully downloaded the entire update and I parked it in the garage to make it happily perform the update.

Moral of the story, I highly encourage you all make an appointment with your local dealership to have them check your computer system for bulletin 24-NA-206.
Take care out there!
Brad
 
As promised, here's an update on my 2024 Colorado ZR2.

Straight away, in my case, battery drain issues were 100% due to a hung/corrupt OTA update.

I took my ZR2 to the dealership yesterday for regular 12,000 mile oil change/tire rotation. I told them to please check Bulletin No.: 24-NA-206 as posted by the NHTSA. Link:

My sevice rep was skeptical at first, but after attempting to work on my truck and after talking to other service reps, they realized that other vehicles have recently been towed in with dead batteries. They finally connected the dots! They called an emergency quick meeting of all service reps in the dealership and shared the details.

They performed a hard-connected factory reset of the whole computer system according to the service bulletin. Surprisingly, on my way home from the dealership my truck seemed to be running smoother again and I noticed that it started doing the engine auto-stop at stop lights (which I wasn't a fan of to be honest, but at least it was functioning as designed again).

They indicated that the OTA update would attemp again automatically in a couple of days. Sure enough... this afternoon it successfully downloaded the entire update and I parked it in the garage to make it happily perform the update.

Moral of the story, I highly encourage you all make an appointment with your local dealership to have them check your computer system for bulletin 24-NA-206.
Take care out there!
Brad
Glad you got it sorted out
And shows that have to keep computers (which new vehicles are now) updated so they run properly
 
owns 2017 Chevrolet Colorado Z71
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