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I ordered the 1" level and 1.25" body lift for my truck for a winter project as I will need tires next year.
I run Chevy/GM mudflaps and know I will be able to go 265/70 on stock wheels, but is there another size a little taller people are running with mudflaps? Or that similar set up with no flaps?
I don't want to give those up as I run a lot of gravel and have black paint but can go to kickback style if worth the upsize.
 

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I ordered the 1" level and 1.25" body lift for my truck for a winter project as I will need tires next year.
I run Chevy/GM mudflaps and know I will be able to go 265/70 on stock wheels, but is there another size a little taller people are running with mudflaps? Or that similar set up with no flaps?
I don't want to give those up as I run a lot of gravel and have black paint but can go to kickback style if worth the upsize.
I put running boards on mine due to the gravel and sand roads I run on. some run rok-blox flaps

google coloradofans mud flaps as there are a couple threads on them
 

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I ordered the 1" level and 1.25" body lift for my truck for a winter project as I will need tires next year.
I run Chevy/GM mudflaps and know I will be able to go 265/70 on stock wheels, but is there another size a little taller people are running with mudflaps? Or that similar set up with no flaps?
I don't want to give those up as I run a lot of gravel and have black paint but can go to kickback style if worth the upsize.
The next up size is 275/70R17, and if you don’t mind pizza cutters (thin) 235/80R17 and 255/75R17


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I put running boards on mine due to the gravel and sand roads I run on. some run rok-blox flaps

google coloradofans mud flaps as there are a couple threads on them
The next up size is 275/70R17, and if you don’t mind pizza cutters (thin) 235/80R17 and 255/75R17


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I also have GM running boards but will look into rok blocks. They look rigid, how do people like them?

Thanks for the size clarification. Anyone run the 275/70? I'm not big on the pizza cutter style so would stay down in height to stay wider
 

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I also have GM running boards but will look into rok blocks. They look rigid, how do people like them?

Thanks for the size clarification. Anyone run the 275/70? I'm not big on the pizza cutter style so would stay down in height to stay wider
Initially 275/70R17 was my first choice but rejected since all the tires I considered in that size are E rated and 55lbs or greater. One of my goals was to keep the unsprung / rotational weight to a minimum. Choosing a tire is a balance of the goals of size, performance, intended use, aesthetics, and price. About to install Rokblokz mud flaps, will post when complete.
Font Rectangle Material property Parallel Pattern


Last week I got a set of five C-Rated Yokohama Geolandar M/T in 255/75/R17 at 32.3" diameter and only 49lbs. It's about 10.125" wide mounted on the RRW RR7-H 17x8.5 wheels, so a little narrower than stock 265/65R17 Duratracs at 10.5" wide. No rubbing on the rear portion of the front fender / wheel well. Not to mention I only paid $185 each at Discount Tire for the Yoko M/Ts. All other tires I considered were $70 or more each.

Second serious option is the BFG KO2's C-Rated (81501) 285/70R17 at 51lbs each, common take off size from the Jeep community. The extra width will require trimming of the pinch welds which I'm hesitant to do.
 

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Last week I got a set of five C-Rated Yokohama Geolandar M/T in 255/75/R17 at 32.3" diameter and only 49lbs. It's about 10.125" wide mounted on the RRW RR7-H 17x8.5 wheels, so a little narrower than stock 265/65R17 Duratracs at 10.5" wide. No rubbing on the rear portion of the front fender / wheel well. Not to mention I only paid $185 each at Discount Tire for the Yoko M/Ts. All other tires I considered were $70 or more each.

Second serious option is the BFG KO2's C-Rated (81501) 285/70R17 at 51lbs each, common take off size from the Jeep community. The extra width will require trimming of the pinch welds which I'm hesitant to do.
I am interested to see how these look on your truck. 3/8" narrower I probably wouldn't notice.
I do have time to continue shopping as I won't be buying anything until late spring most likely before I start my camping season.
 

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Initially 275/70R17 was my first choice but rejected since all the tires I considered in that size are E rated and 55lbs or greater. One of my goals was to keep the unsprung / rotational weight to a minimum. Choosing a tire is a balance of the goals of size, performance, intended use, aesthetics, and price. About to install Rokblokz mud flaps, will post when complete.
View attachment 418480

Last week I got a set of five C-Rated Yokohama Geolandar M/T in 255/75/R17 at 32.3" diameter and only 49lbs. It's about 10.125" wide mounted on the RRW RR7-H 17x8.5 wheels, so a little narrower than stock 265/65R17 Duratracs at 10.5" wide. No rubbing on the rear portion of the front fender / wheel well. Not to mention I only paid $185 each at Discount Tire for the Yoko M/Ts. All other tires I considered were $70 or more each.

Second serious option is the BFG KO2's C-Rated (81501) 285/70R17 at 51lbs each, common take off size from the Jeep community. The extra width will require trimming of the pinch welds which I'm hesitant to do.
You’re overthinking it. Price and aesthetics. Anything you can do on one tire, you can do on another


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You’re overthinking it. Price and aesthetics. Anything you can do on one tire, you can do on another
Then I am overthinking this also - everything he mentioned I am also considering in my next tire choice, including the Rockblokz.

As light weight as possible, ideally 50 lbs or less, C rated tire and in my case ideally a true 33” for a little extra clearance, that also handles well on wet roads
 

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You’re overthinking it. Price and aesthetics. Anything you can do on one tire, you can do on another

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As an engineer who works on power steering design and deals with vehicle dynamics, I will absolutely over analyze this! But in the end you are correct, does the tire you want fit your budget given its aesthetics / performance is the question you must personally answer.
 

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Then I am overthinking this also - everything he mentioned I am also considering in my next tire choice, including the Rockblokz.

As light weight as possible, ideally 50 lbs or less, C rated tire and in my case ideally a true 33” for a little extra clearance, that also handles well on wet roads
I also like the idea of keeping the tire weight as low as practical however it depends on your application.

If you talk to anyone that's done a fair amount of off roading whether rock crawling, desert running or coarse gravel etc.. especially where you are airing down you do not want to run a C rated tire. 10 ply is your friend unless you really like sidewall cuts, punctures and failures.
 

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I also like the idea of keeping the tire weight as low as practical however it depends on your application.

If you talk to anyone that's done a fair amount of off roading whether rock crawling, desert running or coarse gravel etc.. especially where you are airing down you do not want to run a C rated tire. 10 ply is your friend unless you really like sidewall cuts, punctures and failures.
I’m aware. I’ve been running E rated tires for 2 years. Regarding the C, there are offerings with reinforced sidewalls which are holding up quite well.
 

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Well, crp - I had two paragraphs and this new keyboard highlighted and deleted - at least I figured out where my palm is hitting. I am going by memory of reading over the past 2 years and finding specific technical details is challenging.

K02 in certain sizes have reinforced sidewalls in a C offering, I believe the KM3 also - but I believe that is 255/75R17. I'm doing this from memory, so don't quote me exactly. Nokian (not sure if they use the C rating system or not, haven't read up on them in months). My understanding is also the Cooper AT3, Toyo AT2, AT3 have 2 ply sidewall. Falken - don't recall exactly if they were C's though.
Some of the newer tires only have 2 ply sidwall's but they are thick and hold up just as well as 3 ply's
 

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Well, crp - I had two paragraphs and this new keyboard highlighted and deleted - at least I figured out where my palm is hitting. I am going by memory of reading over the past 2 years and finding specific technical details is challenging.

K02 in certain sizes have reinforced sidewalls in a C offering, I believe the KM3 also - but I believe that is 255/75R17. I'm doing this from memory, so don't quote me exactly. Nokian (not sure if they use the C rating system or not, haven't read up on them in months). My understanding is also the Cooper AT3, Toyo AT2, AT3 have 2 ply sidewall. Falken - don't recall exactly if they were C's though.
Some of the newer tires only have 2 ply sidwall's but they are thick and hold up just as well as 3 ply's
(y) Thanks

I've talked to guys that do off roading with groups: Jeeps, Taco's, Colorado's. They have said that on their outings they have seen that the rigs that have sidewall failures have C rated. One guy said he saw multiple C rated equipped rigs with failures and 0 with the E rated this was on just one trip. These are trips where the rigs are doing lead follow over the same line.

It all depends on application ie what do you intend to do with your truck. Theirs tires for everything. You cannot repair a sidewall cut/puncture which is expensive and time intensive. The cost of one tire thrown away because of a sidewall failure will pay for at least a year, more likely two, worth of additional gas to run E rated.
One of the offroad magazines did a calc showing the difference is about $64 per year at 15,000 miles per yr. Don't ask which one, I don't remember.

IMO E rated is worth it, failures off roading suck. Hope this is useful to some of you guys.
 

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(y) Thanks

I've talked to guys that do off roading with groups: Jeeps, Taco's, Colorado's. They have said that on their outings they have seen that the rigs that have sidewall failures have C rated. One guy said he saw multiple C rated equipped rigs with failures and 0 with the E rated this was on just one trip. These are trips where the rigs are doing lead follow over the same line.

It all depends on application ie what do you intend to do with your truck. Theirs tires for everything. You cannot repair a sidewall cut/puncture which is expensive and time intensive. The cost of one tire thrown away because of a sidewall failure will pay for at least a year, more likely two, worth of additional gas to run E rated.
One of the offroad magazines did a calc showing the difference is about $64 per year at 15,000 miles per yr. Don't ask which one, I don't remember.

IMO E rated is worth it, failures off roading suck. Hope this is useful to some of you guys.
Here is an older K02 review Jake sent me - well worth the read:

 

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Thanks for the link. It is well worth the read.
I would mention that this is a review of a tire from 6 years ago. Tires in general and the competition have changed/advanced/evolved since then.
I can find no mention of the load rating of the reviewed tire. It appears form the photo that its a D or E.
If it's a C then it's a good endorsement for reinforced sidewalls.
 

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I am interested to see how these look on your truck. 3/8" narrower I probably wouldn't notice.
I do have time to continue shopping as I won't be buying anything until late spring most likely before I start my camping season.
Here's some various shots of the 255/75R17 Yoko M/T tires on my Z71. The RRW RR7-H wheels are zero offset.
Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle


Left is the stock 265/65R17 Duratrac, right is Yoko Geolandar M/T
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire
 

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Thanks for the pics.
Kind of makes me want that exact set up...
 
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black wheels on a black truck, so novel, there are a lot of tires that weigh less then the 285 fan-boy KO's mentioned above.

when some one says "off-roading" they need to define what off-roading is to them.
rock crawling? forest trails? dirt, sand and mud roads? pastures etc...
 

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black wheels on a black truck, so novel, there are a lot of tires that weigh less then the 285 fan-boy KO's mentioned above.

when some one says "off-roading" they need to define what off-roading is to them.
rock crawling? forest trails? dirt, sand and mud roads? pastures etc...
Don't knock black on black, it is a midnight edition after all! Just not a fan of bronze on black, unless my truck was blue. I do plan on painting the protection rings the AEV anthracite color when they need a recoat.

Your other point is spot on - in Michigan I'm mostly dealing with forest trails, mud, sand, etc. so a C-rated tire is fine (the SL rated Duratracs have held up just fine too). If I was doing rock crawling or where there's jagged terrain, then sure I'd get a E-rated tire.

FWIW - my experience with the blue oval's SVT guys rock crawling & desert running was on C-rated KO2s which hold up just fine on the Bronco Raptor. Trust me when I say we're not easy on the vehicles during testing.
 
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