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I would skip the brake fluid change myself. This seems to be a very new thing to drain your wallet. Unless you have done some road racing or your trailer brakes went out. ;)
Brakes last so long now, Im doing fluid flushes every pad change. They have to get bled anyway, right? Fresh brake fluid is cheap insurance.
 
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Once AGAIN I have to ask, Who's tail lights are those PLEASE! This is why I don't hang out on this forum. People show off their mods but don't help anyone else out like its top secret info or something. I'm not expecting an answer since I'm being so nice.
Pretty sure those are the Spyder tail lights.

 

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Brakes last so long now, Im doing fluid flushes every pad change. They have to get bled anyway, right? Fresh brake fluid is cheap insurance.
Huh? There's no reason to bleed the brakes when doing pad changes, the hydraulic system isn't cracked open at all. At least, it shouldn't be, so it makes me wonder what you're doing to feel like doing anything with the brake fluid is necessary.
 

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Got my Rough Country Winch opened up and installed an Amazon wireless remote. The winch already had the spade connectors to plug in the remote with no issues. Pleasantly surprised. I had another 30 foot recovery strap and a couple more bow shackles and another snatch block arrive today. 142 feet of single line with two 30ft. straps and a tree saver strap along with the 85ft. of synthetic winch line. The Amazon remote had no problem controlling the winch at the full 142ft.
My setup so far, RC Pro 9500S on a hitch cradle for front or rear use, front receiver hitch, 2 - 15k snatch blocks, 2 - 30ft recovery straps, 6ft tree saver strap, 3 bow shackles and the 6k lbs. come-a-long is still in the toolbox for a backup. I'm setup for single, double and triple line pulls if needed. Next item I'm working towards is a ground anchor.
What wireless remote? Possibly thinking about this winch when my 589Fab hidden bumper gets here. How do you like the winch?
 

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I just ha

Brakes last so long now, Im doing fluid flushes every pad change. They have to get bled anyway, right? Fresh brake fluid is cheap insurance.
No, they don't have to be bled during a pad change. Some people like to open the bleeder when they return the piston back, not me.
But that would be a good time to flush since you are already there.
 

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No, they don't have to be bled during a pad change. Some people like to open the bleeder when they return the piston back, not me.
But that would be a good time to flush since you are already there.
Why would you (ever) open the bleeder except when you are bleeding the brakes? I am not sure, since I have never flushed a brake system voluntarily, but I think I would even flush the brakes via a bleeding process.

I use the term voluntarily because when you blow a wheel cylinder out, you pretty much flush the brake system.
 
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2019 GMC Canyon CC 4X4, 2020 Chevy Z71 CC 2WD
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What wireless remote? Possibly thinking about this winch when my 589Fab hidden bumper gets here. How do you like the winch?
Love the winch so far. No real testing yet. Only set the e brake and drug the truck a few feet with a single line pull in the gravel. No sweat! The remote really surprised me though. It's not water proof, but could easily be waterproofed with some silicon. Way better range than stated in the add.
 

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Why would you (ever) open the bleeder except when you are bleeding the brakes? I am not sure, since I have never flushed a brake system voluntarily, but I think I would even flush the brakes via a bleeding process.

I use the term voluntarily because when you blow a wheel cylinder out, you pretty much flush the brake system.
Well, some manufactures have started recommending to open the bleeder when pushing the piston/s in so you don't push debris back up into the system. I've done brakes thousands of times and have never had a problem. But it does make sense.
 

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Well, some manufactures have started recommending to open the bleeder when pushing the piston/s in so you don't push debris back up into the system. I've done brakes thousands of times and have never had a problem. But it does make sense.
Where would this debris come from? The internal corrosion that I mentioned some posts back that are why fluid flushes are recommended every 2-5 years so that this is avoided? ;)
 

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Where would this debris come from? The internal corrosion that I mentioned some posts back that are why fluid flushes are recommended every 2-5 years so that this is avoided? ;)
That stung a little. :ROFLMAO:
 

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Well, some manufactures have started recommending to open the bleeder when pushing the piston/s in so you don't push debris back up into the system. I've done brakes thousands of times and have never had a problem. But it does make sense.
It seems like that just creates a need to bleed the brakes when you are done. I don't know, I have always considered it a sealed system and anytime you open anything, the bleeder valve, the cap on top of that item we can't mention on the firewall, etc., you introduce an opportunity for contamination, with humid air being a contaminant as bad as anything else.
 
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Discovered the source of the clunk and subsequent resistance to rolling that I experienced on Sunday about 200 yards from home. Ordered a set of Raybestos shoes with a lifetime warranty that cost all of $11.50.




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Just removed my cordless charger and replaced it with the standard console. So much better, and really easy to do. Took about 20 minutes start to finish.
Doing the same tomorrow! Soon as FedEx gets to my office.
 

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Since Chevy mana
Huh? There's no reason to bleed the brakes when doing pad changes, the hydraulic system isn't cracked open at all. At least, it shouldn't be, so it makes me wonder what you're doing to feel like doing anything with the brake fluid is necessary.
Since Chevy put in water contaminated ATF, how about the brake fluid?
This is an argument I already know I can't win.
 

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It seems like that just creates a need to bleed the brakes when you are done. I don't know, I have always considered it a sealed system and anytime you open anything, the bleeder valve, the cap on top of that item we can't mention on the firewall, etc., you introduce an opportunity for contamination, with humid air being a contaminant as bad as anything else.
Yes, you take that chance but it's not that big of a deal. Crack the bleeder, push the piston back, before it's all the way back, fluid still coming out, close the bleeder. Then when the job is done you need to refill.
But yeah, I don't sweat it, I like to leave well enough alone.
 

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Discovered the source of the clunk and subsequent resistance to rolling that I experienced on Sunday about 200 yards from home. Ordered a set of Raybestos shoes with a lifetime warranty that cost all of $11.50.




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Jeeez, is that what salt does to vehicles? That looks like a 20 plus year old California truck.
Or do you wash the wheels a lot? :)
 
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