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2016 Colorado WT, crew cab long bed
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Zone 1.25 lift was installed a while back. Everything went in the way it came off. Tried tightening with and without a load already but still getting a pop when going over bumps. Thought at first the top of strut wasn’t tight but it was. Will try and tighten today and test and if not tomorrow remove and reinstall invade i missed something.
Tighten up the sway bar end links too.


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I had a fun day today with my colorado. Had to drive about 120 miles from my home to rent a uhaul auto trailer and pick up my new '92 4runner.. I say mine, but my buddy is gonna buy out my share eventually (its a junker)... well its a shite show of a truck.. rust thru the doors and bumper, leaking rear end, a leaking rear main and a fun one.. a blown head gasket... I then had to drive my truck and it home and it went really well... uhaul said that my truck was too small to tow the 4runner and the trailer... Kinda erked by that... My truck has a 7k rating and the trailer was about 2200lbs, and the 4runner was about 4000lbs, 6200 ish lbs. 800lbs to spare. suck it uhaul. It towed wonderfully, way better than flat towing an old '72 bug. never had an issue with it for all of the 125 miles i drove with the trailer and truck on it.... took a slightly longer route home to avoid San Fransisco on the return run. drove on the way there at about 75-80 mph, on the way home, was maxed at 55mph yay California trailer-ing speed limits...also I now understand the wonder that are trailer brakes... also this 4runner is a rust bucket.. gonna build it into a junker 4x4 so my buddy can go with me on 4wheelin trips... but it needs work yay............... ugh
 

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2017 Colorado ZR2 as it came from the factory
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404 Posts
I had a fun day today with my colorado. Had to drive about 120 miles from my home to rent a uhaul auto trailer and pick up my new '92 4runner.. I say mine, but my buddy is gonna buy out my share eventually (its a junker)... well its a shite show of a truck.. rust thru the doors and bumper, leaking rear end, a leaking rear main and a fun one.. a blown head gasket... I then had to drive my truck and it home and it went really well... uhaul said that my truck was too small to tow the 4runner and the trailer... Kinda erked by that... My truck has a 7k rating and the trailer was about 2200lbs, and the 4runner was about 4000lbs, 6200 ish lbs. 800lbs to spare. suck it uhaul. It towed wonderfully, way better than flat towing an old '72 bug. never had an issue with it for all of the 125 miles i drove with the trailer and truck on it.... took a slightly longer route home to avoid San Fransisco on the return run. drove on the way there at about 75-80 mph, on the way home, was maxed at 55mph yay California trailer-ing speed limits...also I now understand the wonder that are trailer brakes... also this 4runner is a rust bucket.. gonna build it into a junker 4x4 so my buddy can go with me on 4wheelin trips... but it needs work yay............... ugh
Looks like time has started the tube door process for you

Sit, Ubu, sit.
 
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2019 Colorado CCLB Z71 V6 4WD
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556 Posts
Where’s the details? I haven’t heard of anyone doing that.


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Not too many details. Tapped a trigger off a switched ignition source for latching relays and just used a generic kit off line. Doing it that way means they won't just turn on every time the truck is on unless you hit the button. I'll post up some more details once I finish it all.
 

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Did some stuff on the truck today, mainly started the lighting for the GFC and let me tell you, plan your **** before you touch a single wire. I jumped the gun and was gonna wing but I realized I was adding so much wire to the truck, and making the system have a ton of long runs. Reassessed the idea and found a smoother solution. Ordered some 3 pin Molex connectors and more wire, because I don't want to splice smaller runs together. Also figured out a decent temp spot for a switch panel, using the bed clamp.

I'll have dual LED strips (red and white) on the edge of each door for outside light, then one pair under the overhang for interior. Decided I didn't want to run the upstairs light just yet, because I want to minimize the amount of holes I put in it, so that will come later.

Then I reorganized my crap and loaded the drawer. And put the flannel sheets on. Even tackled closing the gaps in the corners of the bed and the tailgate. Got her about 98% sealed which is good enough for me. Here's a couple previews of the interior lights on a temp jumper wire. You can see where the strips are with the red light, and also see the door lights.

Automotive lighting Automotive design Building Tints and shades Automotive exterior

Automotive design Automotive exterior Hood Tints and shades Electric blue
 

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How did you close the gaps? I was considering pond filter media stuffed in all four corners. It's a hella odd shape to fill.
 

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How did you close the gaps? I was considering pond filter media stuffed in all four corners. It's a hella odd shape to fill.
I had a few different styles/thickness of stick on, D shaped weather stripping and some butyl tape. Butyl taped the front corners, like caulking a bathroom with putty. The rear tailgate corners, I have a worn out tailgate seal, so I just added some of the stick on in misc places to create a better seal, and some of the butyl tape to close off some of the more complex camper gaps.

Never thought of pond media filter. That's a decent idea too.
 

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2020 Colorado Z71 Trail Runner
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798 Posts
How did you close the gaps? I was considering pond filter media stuffed in all four corners. It's a hella odd shape to fill.
I used ESI Ultimate Tailgate Seal. LINK Their website has different "templates" for different trucks. It's not 100% sealed, but it's a heel of a lot better. For the front seam, I caulked it with some flexible roofing weather seal. That has worked perfectly.
 

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How did you close the gaps? I was considering pond filter media stuffed in all four corners. It's a hella odd shape to fill.
I used pond filter material. I think I still have a bunch left over I would send for the cost of shipping.
 

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Wishing a Happy Thanksgiving to all my fellow Canucks!
What a gorgeous weekend here in southern Ontario. Took advantage of the crazy warm weather to clean and detail the interior of the truck and give it a quick wash.
Heading into Toronto tomorrow with the MIL and BIL and wife so I wanted to make it look good.
Also replaced a blown tail light this week - seems like I'm not the only one...
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Plant
 

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2019 GMC Canyon
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306 Posts
Installed Rough County shacks conversion brackets and some Smitty Built red shackles. Starting to think it’s time to remove the air damn. I didn’t mind it because it looked kinda sporty with the chase rack. Now that I have the Alu-Cab and shackles it doesn’t look right.
Really need to get a lift and beefier tires next.

 

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what is the perceived advantage of the shackle conversion out of curiosity?
I can only assume it's an aesthetic thing. Factory recovery points are already a closed loop and not a hook like they were on gmt400 and gmt800 trucks, so there's no real advantage to a swinging shackle

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2019 Colorado CCLB Z71 V6 4WD
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556 Posts
Trying to figure out a safe way to get my inverter wired into the bed and be able to turn on and off...
 

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2017 Colorado ZR2 as it came from the factory
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404 Posts
Trying to figure out a safe way to get my inverter wired into the bed and be able to turn on and off...
Use weatherproof bulkhead connectors and for a standard 15A supply you could use 16awg copper wire over 15ft. So no need to go overboard with it. Steer clear of running extension cord if possible to longevity of it. Cord jackets don't generally hold up well with road conditions. Specially if you're in the salt belt regions.

OEM is usually 16-14awg wire to bed outlets. 18-16awg for in vehicle outlets. Still total amp draw for the whole circuit is 15A in most cases. If you are doing a plug in option as well then maybe step it up to 14awg for the bed to cover up to a household style 20A breaker supply. In which case I would put that plug-in the gasser fuel fill door blank area since it's already a capless fillet and won't matter if the door is left open either.

Projects like this leave a lot of room for variations and make them fun to me! Have fun with the headaches that will result in the process of designing, location best product, and pricing

Sit, Ubu, sit.
 
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2019 Colorado CCLB Z71 V6 4WD
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556 Posts
Use weatherproof bulkhead connectors and for a standard 15A supply you could use 16awg copper wire over 15ft. So no need to go overboard with it. Steer clear of running extension cord if possible to longevity of it. Cord jackets don't generally hold up well with road conditions. Specially if you're in the salt belt regions.

OEM is usually 16-14awg wire to bed outlets. 18-16awg for in vehicle outlets. Still total amp draw for the whole circuit is 15A in most cases. If you are doing a plug in option as well then maybe step it up to 14awg for the bed to cover up to a household style 20A breaker supply. In which case I would put that plug-in the gasser fuel fill door blank area since it's already a capless fillet and won't matter if the door is left open either.

Projects like this leave a lot of room for variations and make them fun to me! Have fun with the headaches that will result in the process of designing, location best product, and pricing

Sit, Ubu, sit.
I was thinking the marine 14/3 and a sealed outdoor/marine style receptacle box up under the bed rail. I have a bunch of it around as far as wire is concerned.
 
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2017 Colorado ZR2 as it came from the factory
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I was thinking the marine 14/3 and a sealed outdoor/marine style receptacle box up under the bed rail. I have a bunch of it around as far as wire is concerned.
Sounds like you have a pretty good understanding and start to it. I've seen people run ridiculously large gauge wire for it like they had a 100A circuit they were putting in. Just didn't want to see another super overkill setup for no reason.

Sit, Ubu, sit.
 
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