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Valve Train Noise

3163 Views 10 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  lilyspapa
I have an 2006 Colorado with a 3.5 liter engine. It has 110k miles. Last year I started hearing a knock coming from the front of the engine. It has gotten a bit worse over the last 6 months. The sound is present with or without the serpentine belt attached. The knock frequency is half the engine RPM at all speeds, cold or hot. You can have a listen to the sound at idle via the attached link.

New Recording 6.m4a

A friend is in the midst of pulling the timing chain but so far has not found any obvious problem. Any ideas?
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I have an 2006 Colorado with a 3.5 liter engine. It has 110k miles. Last year I started hearing a knock coming from the front of the engine. It has gotten a bit worse over the last 6 months. The sound is present with or without the serpentine belt attached. The knock frequency is half the engine RPM at all speeds, cold or hot. You can have a listen to the sound at idle via the attached link.

New Recording 6.m4a

A friend is in the midst of pulling the timing chain but so far has not found any obvious problem. Any ideas?
For experimental purposes, try a mid grade tank of fuel. Run tank almost empty and try a higher octane. It's worth a shot.
For experimental purposes, try a mid grade tank of fuel. Run tank almost empty and try a higher octane. It's worth a shot.
Thank you RJL1983. If we don't find anything after pulling the timing chain, I will definitely try your "experiment". I appreciate the suggestion.
Thank you RJL1983. If we don't find anything after pulling the timing chain, I will definitely try your "experiment". I appreciate the suggestion.
I'm sorry to say but that sounds like a rod knock.
I'm sorry to say but that sounds like a rod knock.
Thank you White016. I neglected to mention that one of my diagnostic tests was to disconnect the plug wires in sequence. The noise remained after pulling each of the wires.
Thank you White016. I neglected to mention that one of my diagnostic tests was to disconnect the plug wires in sequence. The noise remained after pulling each of the wires.
good, usually a rod knock will change with load.
The thing is that sound sure is kind of deep like a rod. At least it seems to be on your recording. It sure is very consistent unlike anything the chain will do.
There is a balancer in those that is driven by a chain in the rear. I have no idea what noises that would make.
Let us know how it goes.
I'm sorry to say but that sounds like a rod knock.
It's worth a shot at the least
It's worth a shot at the least
Since we have taken the pan off to get at the timing chain I will be sure to inspect the rod bearings
Since we have taken the pan off to get at the timing chain I will be sure to inspect the rod bearings
The sound is definitely coming from the front.
Hell along with a higher octane, try a can of Sea foam in the tank as well. I've always added a can along with a full tank of gas about every 10,000 miles
Here is the update White016 asked for. A retired mechanic neighbor pulled the timing chain cover since the knock seemed to be coming from there. As some of you know, accessing the timing chain is not an easy task. Tip: instead of dropping the axle as some sources suggest he lifted the engine off the front mounts to access the hidden pan fasteners. Once all the covers were removed, he could inspect all valve train parts and all rod bearings. Unfortunately, nothing obvious showed up. Since 20 hours had been invested to get to that point, I asked him to replace the moving parts (timing chain, tensioners, cam sprockets, valve lifters, exhaust timing solenoid); but I didn’t expect any of that would solve the problem. He also replaced the water pump, thermostat and main seal. After everything was put back together the knock was still there. I filled with high octane gas and some Seafoam; but the knock persisted after a couple days. I tried one last diagnostic – fuel injectors. For this, I removed the air cleaner resonator and bridged the two air ducts with a 7” length of pvc pipe. This allowed the engine to run while giving access to the 6-pin injector harness connector. I devised a set of 6 wires to jumper between the male and female halves of this connector. I then sequentially removed each of the wires while the engine was running. After removing the first wire, the engine ran a little rough; but the knock was still present. Eventually I pulled the jumper to #1 cylinder and the noise stopped. The engine was as quiet as when it was new. I hope this expensive/time-consuming trial and error helps someone in the future.
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