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I've worked on the underside of my truck far more than should be required on a brand new vehicle. I crawled underneath in the dealers lot before I brought it home. I found just the opposite of DieselDrax's truck. No film or coating of any kind.
In fact I was disappointed on how many components were NOT coated. When I build a car, everything gets coated. There is no bare metal under there. I even use coated bolts.
So you found the same as my truck and the opposite of Snipesy's.

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The full size trucks have or had a frame wax which eventually wears off. Not sure if the latest gen still uses it or not. Our truck frames and bodies are do not use a wax. I’ve been using fluid film and now wool wax on an Equinox and the Colorado with good results. There’s plenty of you tube videos comparing products and there is one Colorado owner who goes pretty in depth with fluid film but also does testing of different products. Having done a fair amount of research I may consider Cosmoline/RP-342 on the next new vehicle. It’s more permanent than fluid film/wool wax but still stays tacky and will self heal.

FWIW, the last gen Equinoxes were notorious for having door seem rust issues. I had a 2010 and traded for a 2013 and it had bubbling paint on the seams. Used fluid film on the 2013 from the start and have no door seam issues at all. I wipe them and clean them once or twice a year. They get caked with road junk and salt regularly and the fluid film has provided a barrier on both the outside but also inside the doors via the drain holes. Since it stays wet, the drains do not clog. Fluid film does wash off so does need to be reapplied on exposed surfaces. I was hesitant to coat everything on the underside of the Nox and have surface on the areas I didn’t spray. Spraying over it has helped control it.
 
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I've kept 2 trucks for over 10 years, my last Canyon over 5 (only traded because I wanted the the 2015, spur of the moment decision) None with aftermarket rust proofing and didn't have issues except for some surface rust on the undercarriage frame. Just tried to keep them out of high humidity / melting scenario during winter. To be honest, I did have an issue with my 4runner at the 9 year mark, but only around the fenders due to the flares it had , which locked the salt and water into place, only noticed it when I decided on a refresh and took them off.
 

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I used to be real anal about salt, especially here in Wisc., when I bought my truck I had my home on the market and was planning to move to Nev. (purpose of the ZR2), well, it didn't sell and a couple of years later, Covid hit. Sooo, here I am. I try to not drive my truck when it's real warm and slushy, if it's frozen, don't care, I drive it. At the end of "salt season", I take my 2700psi pressure washer to it, put it up on ramps, so I can get the underbody thoroughly cleaned and spray out every nook-n-cranny that I can. I do have a dealer installed "Final Coat" system, which is used in Canada on their Hi-way trucks/plows, that sends a low amp elec. charge, from the battery, thru the body of the truck. Supposed to null the galvanic action, working with the zinc coating (??) on the body. So far, I'm going on my 4th winter with the truck and I don't have any surface rust, on either the body or frame. Time will tell. O.D.
 

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I've owned my truck since it had 8 miles on it and have done all but one oil change so I've been under my truck who knows how many times since new, can't say mine ever had such a substance. I know what the rust preventative looks like, it's quite sticky and gooey. Can't tell you how many German cars I've seen "leaking" it in the summer or how difficult it actually is to clean off. My truck frame never had the stuff or if it did it washed off very quickly and was likely for protection during rail car transport which is Hell on paint and untreated metal. If it were meant to be a long term rust prohibitor they wouldn't use a thin coat that washes off just by driving in the rain.

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You are right. Looks like GM is e coating the Colorado's.

The bigger Silverado's have the silly wax which is what I work on mostly. It peels away all the time and starts looking messy.
 

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The thing about mud, a lot of high pressure spray. The thing about frozen mud, even more high pressure spray. I work in a variety of roads and conditions including oil service and farm roads. A mostly empty parking with large deep puddles also works in a pinch. Whatever you use your brakes may be soft until they dry out.
 

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Here's a discussion of the brine topic, including a link to what the Washington DOT does/uses.


And if you go to the bottom of the page there's a link on what to do if you have an outstanding warrant and are the passenger in a car. That could be useful for some of us too! :ROFLMAO:
 

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Like others, I have a monthly wash pass ($30 unlimited w/ mil disc.). I can run truck through 20x a day, if wanted. Realistically, I wash when needed (~8-10 times a month). Still getting my money's worth, IMO, and never have cold hands. :D
 

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Here in salt/brine NE Pa I can't always get to the car wash. So I use a back and forth lawn sprinkler which I shove under the truck on days when it is above freezing. I leave it in one place for several minutes before moving it to another spot.

I since traded my Colo
20160220_144801.jpg
rado 20160220_144801.jpg (in pic) for a 2019 Canyon.


400245


400246
 

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I bought an under carriage spray washer setup from a company called theunderwasher.com and it does a really good job and they have a solution to neutralize the salt as it cleans and it is made in the USA in the state of Connecticut.
 

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I bought an under carriage spray washer setup from a company called theunderwasher.com and it does a really good job and they have a solution to neutralize the salt as it cleans and it is made in the USA in the state of Connecticut.
Hmmm...interesting set-up. Might have to add this one to my XMas wish list - thks!
 

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In PA, when the winter winter breaks, i rinse the under carriage with a strong stream of water then do my normal wash. Got in the habit of doing this even in nice weather.
 

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When I was driving a dually, car washes were out because it wouldn't fit. In fact, I had toyed with the idea of opening a truck wash just for such vehicles. I'm sure it would do well in the winter, but wasn't sure during warmer months. Any way, I used the quarter car wash, which is a misnomer because they take credit cards now and cost way more than a quarter. It wasn't the most pleasant way to wash a vehicle but it was better than letting it rust away.
 

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touch less car wash...
 

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For at least the 1st gen colorados, and probably the others, you need to get inside the boxed frame with some sort of rust inhibiter - they tend to rot out from the inside. Fluid Film is a good recommendation, but there are others.
 
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