[scherp69]

Hey guys. Has anyone used the Trigger 4 wireless controller. I’m just trying to get my head wrapped around the wiring of it. I have a Rigid auxiliary high beam light bar on my 22. It’s not wired yet and I came across the Trigger setup. My rigid harness has two relays in line, the positive and negative connections and then 5 wires I believe that run to the switch. It looks like with the trigger set up you just connect the positive and negative to the system. I could be wrong though. Does the trigger system have built in relays? Any info on how the harness connects would be greatly appreciated. Thanks I’m advance.

 

[Tom S.]

The Trigger system is based on relays but l don't know what they are rated for in terms of amperage. l wired mine so it activates the relays on the Rigid lights.

 

[scherp69]

The Trigger system is based on relays but l don't know what they are rated for in terms of amperage. l wired mine so it activates the relays on the Rigid lights.

Thanks Tom. I feel that would be the proper way to do it. Do you remember exactly how you wired it? I wants to make sure it could be done before I pulled the plug and bought the system. Thanks again.

 

[spoonman]

Does your rigid bar have some sort of DRL function or 2 levels of lighting output or backlighting? That is usually why some harnesses have 2 relays in the system.

The trigger website shows you how to wire this (when a bar has 2 lighting outputs. In their video they cut off the relays, figure out what wire does what, then groups the grounds and runs one of the modes to 2 switches. The con of this is that you use up two switches for 1 light.

 

[scherp69]

Does your rigid bar have some sort of DRL function or 2 levels of lighting output or backlighting? That is usually why some harnesses have 2 relays in the system.

The trigger website shows you how to wire this (when a bar has 2 lighting outputs. In their video they cut off the relays, figure out what wire does what, then groups the grounds and runs one of the modes to 2 switches. The con of this is that you use up two switches for 1 light.

Thanks. I’ll have to take a look again at their site. No it’s just an auxiliary high beam bar. The switch that comes with it appears to just be a two position push button switch. Here’s the bar I have SR-SERIES 30" DUAL FUNCTION SAE AUXILARY HIGH BEAM DRIVING LIGHTS

 

[Tom S.]

Thanks Tom. I feel that would be the proper way to do it. Do you remember exactly how you wired it? I wants to make sure it could be done before I pulled the plug and bought the system. Thanks again.

IIRC, I wired my ditch spots to #1 ditch wide dispersal to #2, fogs to #3 and all of them to #4 - HOWEVER in order to do this, I had to use diodes to prevent feedback from lighting everything up no matter which switch was thrown. Schematic looks like this without the #4 "all on option":

If you want the "all on option" here's the schematic:

Here's my "diode wiring" and the remote relay.

 

[spoonman]

Thanks. I’ll have to take a look again at their site. No it’s just an auxiliary high beam bar. The switch that comes with it appears to just be a two position push button switch. Here’s the bar I have SR-SERIES 30" DUAL FUNCTION SAE AUXILARY HIGH BEAM DRIVING LIGHTS

Looks like it has 2 relays because of the "lighted rigid logo"

So I'm guessing it's a 3 way switch. The direction on that product page look generic and not specific to that light.

 

[scherp69]

Does your rigid bar have some sort of DRL function or 2 levels of lighting output or backlighting? That is usually why some harnesses have 2 relays in the system.

The trigger website shows you how to wire this (when a bar has 2 lighting outputs. In their video they cut off the relays, figure out what wire does what, then groups the grounds and runs one of the modes to 2 switches. The con of this is that you use up two switches for 1 light.

it looks like the light has a backlit option. I didn’t think it did, but when j read it again it appears that it does. It’s just a white back light. Thanks for posting how you wired yours. That definitely helps.

i just ended up ordering the Trigger six shooter. Definitely cheaper options out there, but I like how the system works and should keep everything clean. even with having to use two circuits for the light bar, I’ll still have 4 more circuits free to play with. I plan on adding back up light and maybe ditch lights as well.

Thanks again for your help guys. Really appreciate it.

 

[Tom S.]

it looks like the light has a backlit option. I didn’t think it did, but when j read it again it appears that it does. It’s just a white back light. Thanks for posting how you wired yours. That definitely helps.

i just ended up ordering the Trigger six shooter. Definitely cheaper options out there, but I like how the system works and should keep everything clean. even with having to use two circuits for the light bar, I’ll still have 4 more circuits free to play with. I plan on adding back up light and maybe ditch lights as well.

Thanks again for your help guys. Really appreciate it.

Wow, that is stupid expensive.

 

[scherp69]

Wow, that is stupid expensive.

It is. I agree totally. I started hooking it up but haven’t finished it. I’ll admit it is very easy to hook up and saves drilling any holes in the dash or firewall. To me that was worth paying for it.

 

[Tom S.]

It is. I agree totally. I started hooking it up but haven’t finished it. I’ll admit it is very easy to hook up and saves drilling any holes in the dash or firewall. To me that was worth paying for it.

All that is true, but the wireless unit I got from Amazon does the same thing for $30, though it only handles 4 out puts.

 

[scherp69]

All that is true, but the wireless unit I got from Amazon does the same thing for $30, though it only handles 4 out puts.

Couldn’t agree more. I know I chose the expensive option. But I also like the fact that it is Bluetooth and I can control my lights from an app while inside my roof top tent if needed. There definitely are cheaper options out there. I’ll admit though, I’m not great a wiring and figuring out relays and stuff like that, so for me this was the easy solution. Expensive, but easy lol.