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Discussion Starter #1
Does the exhaust piping need to be removed in order to remove the pan?

Not sure if this is the same for lgx setups.

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If V6, yes it must. Break it loose at the Cat flanges. And remove the rubber insulator attached to the transmission rear bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
@16WhiteColly
Just to make sure I'm getting this right.

Unscrew the three sections and pull unit off rubber grommet.


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Unscrew front two flanges and remove the rubber insulator. No need to disconnect the rear flange after the flex joint. The flex joint will have enough give to get the front exhaust pipe flanges back and off the studs. Supposedly the metal flange gaskets are reusable but they are less than $2 each, and the nuts are not supposed to be reused. I bought a bag for about $14.
 

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2015 Colorado LT 2.5L automatic RWD, CCSB, Brownstone Metallic
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Just chiming in for anyone searching later that on 2.5 4-cylinder trucks, the pan can come off without removing the exhaust pipe, though it takes some creative routing.
 

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Yes, because it does not have a crossover pipe, just a single pipe. The only reason the V6 pipe has to be dropped is to gain less than 1” clearance for the check level stand pipe that sticks up about 3/4” above the pan gasket surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Yes, because it does not have a crossover pipe, just a single pipe. The only reason the V6 pipe has to be dropped is to gain less than 1” clearance for the check level stand pipe that sticks up about 3/4” above the pan gasket surface.
So I just flex the pipe down for clearance. It's not a complete section removal.

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Just pull back, the flex joint will let the pipe flanges to clear the CAT studs. Post back when you are done, or if more questions. Do not remove the section. No need to. Much easier than you think. Don’t overthink it. It’s not intimidating.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
@16WhiteColly
Got it. I originally was under the impression the piping needs to be removed. I just need a little extra clearance by unbolting the pipes.

Just sourced parts. 1 more question. How much oil did you buy? I've sourced 2 dozen sites and the only source I can find is amsoil with 2 numbers.
11.2 quarts total
6.7 quarts to fill
That's a pretty big discrepancy.



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@16WhiteColly
Got it. I originally was under the impression the piping needs to be removed. I just need a little extra clearance by unbolting the pipes.

Just sourced parts. 1 more question. How much oil did you buy? I've sourced 2 dozen sites and the only source I can find is amsoil with 2 numbers.
11.2 quarts total
6.7 quarts to fill
That's a pretty big discrepancy.



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Usually 6 with a pan drop and filter, but I would have 7 on hand just in case. You are not doing a complete change with the torque convertor. I bought 12 quarts of the full synthetic AC Delco Dexron VI #88865549 off eBay for $84 shipped. Here is a good video how to check fluid level after you change it. You are dealing with the GM 6L50 so pay attention to that part of the video.

 

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Another option is to not drop the pan and simply suck the oil out, measure what you got, and replace what you sucked out. Drive it for awhile and repeat to further dilute the old fluid left in the transmission. Even if the pan is dropped, the fluid in the torque converter is still in there, and it is quite a bit, probably another 5 quarts or so. Even if you do plan to drop the pan, suck the fluid out first to avoid a messy fluid all over the place "Red Sea Scenario".

Here is a pic of my pan after I sucked out all I could with a hand pump. I did not try too hard and got most of the fluid.

390201


The standpipe thingie on the right is for the plug to check the fluid level after warming it up to 86 to 122F. I checked the trans oil temp in the DIC for this. The standpipe has a hole in the side, the warm fluid level is about even with the gasket surface.

This pic shows the pump's tube to the right of the filter. Simply sucking the fluid out will leave a bit in the bottom of the pan, but like I said, you are leaving a lot in the TC anyway.

390202


The only really compelling reason to drop the pan is to change the filter. The filter in mine pretty much looked new after 40K miles. If all is well, the filter does not need changing very often at all. My truck is a diesel by the way, that is why it looks different.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks all for the tips. It helped a lot. Now I need to find a better way to add dexron. Manually pumping each quart takes a long time.

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Thanks all for the tips. It helped a lot. Now I need to find a better way to add dexron. Manually pumping each quart takes a long time.
There was a thread yesterday where someone who bought the dipstick setup used that to pour in the fluid. The pictures help explain it.

You could also use one of those pumps designed to remove oil from engines/transmissions.
 

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Both of these ideas work well.
 

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To add fluid, I took some tubing and fed it down through the space between the engine and passenger-side fender, then got under the truck and put the bottom end of the tubing into the filler hole. Then I put a funnel into the top end of the tubing and poured in fluid that way. It was a bit slow, but a lot faster than trying to pump it.
 

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Check this out at Amazon.com
DasMarine 12V 60W Oil Change Pump Extractor, Oil/Diesel Fluid Pump Extractor Scavenge Oil Change Pump Transfer Suction Transfer Pump + Tubes Truck Rv Boat ATV Amazon.com: DasMarine 12V 60W Oil Change Pump Extractor, Oil/Diesel Fluid Pump Extractor Scavenge Oil Change Pump Transfer Suction Transfer Pump + Tubes Truck Rv Boat ATV: Automotive


I have one similar to this (mine is "Currently unavailable"). I've done my trans fluid 3 or so times already with it. I've only used it to drain the old stuff but you could use it to pump the new stuff in too. I usually crawl under the truck with my lawn mower battery to run it but you could snake the hose down from the engine bay too

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