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I wanted to post another note. I now have over 400 miles since installing the towing mirrors. That is enough for me to confidently say that I can not detect a drop in fuel mileage due to them. I am still averaging the same mileage in the same conditions as before. Relatively flat, two lane highway is still 34+ mpg on the DIC.

Of course you guys with the V6 may notice a bit more downshifting due to the increased load :rofl
 

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Installed mirrors today. Had trouble getting door panel back on due to rubber seals along window at top of panel. For passenger side did not remove panel, just loosened it enough to get mirror off. Top of pannel from mid pannel back stayed in place. Screw bracket at door handel did not stay in place but was able to reach up from under panel and put small piece of tape on them to hold in place.

Ordered mirrors with another forum member to save on shipping and wire cost. It worked out great. He had his mirrors in less than a week after money wired and I had mine 8 days after money wired. Can't wait to pull trailer again with these mirrors.
 

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I wanted to post another note. I now have over 400 miles since installing the towing mirrors. That is enough for me to confidently say that I can not detect a drop in fuel mileage due to them. I am still averaging the same mileage in the same conditions as before. Relatively flat, two lane highway is still 34+ mpg on the DIC.

Of course you guys with the V6 may notice a bit more downshifting due to the increased load :rofl
Oh no with the new mirrors and the cut down air dam I won't be able to afford gas:surprise:
 

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I finished my tow mirror install today, so posting up a pic for now, and will go into more detail in another post later. Mine have the indicators, and spent a lot of time getting it right. I took it out for a quick spin in the neighborhood to get them adjusted right, and am totally thrilled with the outcome. Love the improved visibility, and really like the look of the mirrors on the truck.

 

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Hello everyone,

Long time reader first time posting in this forum. =) I read much on this forum and determined this would be a great truck for towing my race car. I haven't towed anything before so starting with smaller truck (coming from running Imprezas all the time this truck is already big for me!) and hoping to make it easier by having a diesel truck. Also looking for all kinds of precautions and looks like from what you are discussing here tow mirror is one of them.

Anyone would like to order this tow mirror with me to save some on shipping? I am looking for one, so that we get maximum benefits as described earlier. PM me if interested. I am in DFW area, we can save even more if you are in DFW! Looks like BBVA compass account I have will allow international wire for $5. Not sure if that is true or not (we will find out soon!). We will split the total cost in half.

Regards,
Hong
 

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Guys I think the easiest way to handle the window seal is to remove it and the 5 clips from the door panel after taking the door panel off. Then slide the clips back on the door and then slide the rubber seal into place. The entire door panel then just pushes on easy.
I just logged on to post this very comment, and see you beat me to it. And sorry again for the delayed delivery of your mirrors. Great to see them installed.

I struggled for awhile when replacing my first door panel, and decided it was impossible to properly get the window seal in place when attached to the panel. The portion of the clip that goes into the door panel has very strong retention, so used a large, flat blade screwdriver on one side, and a metal trim tool on the other to get them out of the door panel. Once it was in position on the top edge of the door, they snap back in very easily, and all of the other panel retainers were perfectly aligned.
 

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Mine on this morning. Guys I think the easiest way to handle the window seal is to remove it and the 5 clips from the door panel after taking the door panel off. Then slide the clips back on the door and then slide the rubber seal into place. The entire door panel then just pushes on easy. Similar to this video.

https://youtu.be/D34AZ-qgceU

After seeing your video link, I wish I had waited till now to put my mirrors on. Took me 45 minutes or so to get the door pannel back on. Second one was easier since I did not take it all the way off, but your method looks a lot easier.
 

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Mirror indicator wiring

Here's a description of how I wired my Clearview mirror turn indicators. Below are five photos, and their captions, in order, are as follows.

Photo 1: Body Control Module, with my two taps visible. X4 is black, with the right signal wire, and X5 is brown, with the left signal wire. This BCM is in front of the driver, close to the left side, and very easy to access after the simple removal of the driver side knee bolster and metal support panel behind it. The left signal wire goes straight from there into the door, and the right signal is routed along the inside of the firewall to the passenger side, and into the door using the same method as the driver side.

Photo 2: Fishing the wire through the passenger door, wire harness loom, using a large zip-tie. To provide access for this task, the door stop bolt should be removed to allow the door to swing open further. The connector attaching the loom at the door is removed by pulling up on the release handle on top, and the boot is then pulled away from the connector so the wire can be pulled through the loom. A large zip-tie is flexible enough to work it through and not damage the wiring or loom. A hole is drilled a short distance from the end, for attachment of the wire once the zip-tie is inside the passenger compartment. With the passenger side kick panel removed, release the clip at the bottom of the fuse panel and tilt it away to provide better access for fishing the wire.

Photo 3: Wire exiting the loom and into door through new grommet.

Photo 4: Wire entering door cavity. The door speaker is removed to perform this work. The hole was started with a Dremel tool with 1/8” drill bit, and enlarged to 1/4” with Dremel metal grinder bits. There is no room to get a drill in there.

Photo 5: Spliced signal wires to Clearview indicator pigtails.

The Body Control Module is located in the passenger compartment, behind left side of instrument panel knee bolster. Remove the bolster and metal panel behind that is supporting it. Connector X4 is black, and the right front turn signal wire is off PIN 3, light green with violet stripe. Connector X5 is brown, and the left front turn signal wire is off PIN 2, light blue with white stripe.

The materials needed are:
20’ - 20AWG red & black Auto Zip Cord
2 - Wire taps, 18-20AWG or Posi-Tap #EX-135R (used in my application)
2 - Ring Terminal, 18-20AWG, ring sized for selected ground stud

The other option is to tap into the wiring at the turn signal/parking harnesses, in the engine compartment behind each side's light. The wire colors would be the same as described above.
 

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Here's a description of how I wired my Clearview mirror turn indicators. Below are five photos, and their captions, in order, are as follows.

Photo 1: Body Control Module, with my two taps visible. X4 is black, with the right signal wire, and X5 is brown, with the left signal wire. This BCM is in front of the driver, close to the left side, and very easy to access after the simple removal of the driver side knee bolster and metal support panel behind it. The left signal wire goes straight from there into the door, and the right signal is routed along the inside of the firewall to the passenger side, and into the door using the same method as the driver side.

Photo 2: Fishing the wire through the passenger door, wire harness loom, using a large zip-tie. To provide access for this task, the door stop bolt should be removed to allow the door to swing open further. The connector attaching the loom at the door is removed by pulling up on the release handle on top, and the boot is then pulled away from the connector so the wire can be pulled through the loom. A large zip-tie is flexible enough to work it through and not damage the wiring or loom. A hole is drilled a short distance from the end, for attachment of the wire once the zip-tie is inside the passenger compartment. With the passenger side kick panel removed, release the clip at the bottom of the fuse panel and tilt it away to provide better access for fishing the wire.

Photo 3: Wire exiting the loom and into door through new grommet.

Photo 4: Wire entering door cavity. The door speaker is removed to perform this work. The hole was started with a Dremel tool with 1/8” drill bit, and enlarged to 1/4” with Dremel metal grinder bits. There is no room to get a drill in there.

Photo 5: Spliced signal wires to Clearview indicator pigtails.

The Body Control Module is located in the passenger compartment, behind left side of instrument panel knee bolster. Remove the bolster and metal panel behind that is supporting it. Connector X4 is black, and the right front turn signal wire is off PIN 3, light green with violet stripe. Connector X5 is brown, and the left front turn signal wire is off PIN 2, light blue with white stripe.

The materials needed are:
20’ - 20AWG red & black Auto Zip Cord
2 - Wire taps, 18-20AWG or Posi-Tap #EX-135R (used in my application)
2 - Ring Terminal, 18-20AWG, ring sized for selected ground stud

The other option is to tap into the wiring at the turn signal/parking harnesses, in the engine compartment behind each side's light. The wire colors would be the same as described above.
Excellent Details… Thanks !
 

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After seeing your video link, I wish I had waited till now to put my mirrors on. Took me 45 minutes or so to get the door pannel back on. Second one was easier since I did not take it all the way off, but your method looks a lot easier.
You have much more patience than me...I fuxed around trying to install my first panel for 15 minutes with the window strip installed on the panel and had to come up with a better way. After removing the strip, the whole panel installed in a couple minutes.
 
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