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Discussion Starter #1
Well it's been over a year since you guys came out with the mod. I'm curious if there's been any problems with cv joints, forward drive shaft binding, etc. I thought I'd start a thread to see how reliable the mod has been. If you've adjusted it at all, please post.

What did you do?
How many miles/km's have you driven since the mod?
How many miles/km's have you driven in 4wd since the mod?
Do you go offroading and what sort of offroading?
Any issues, replaced any front end components, do you feel its related?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'll start

1 1/4" TBar crank
2,000 miles
300 miles
Yes, some 300 miles of fast paced very bumpy roads and some slow paced flexing crawling
No issues as of yet
 

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Bubaloo Shackles ( replace with Skyjacker AAL about 5k miles ago )
1-1/2 TB crank
50k miles
300 miles
Wooded trails, fields, etc. Mild mudding and rock crawling
No issues at all.

I also tow 6500 lb. trailers
 

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2" Shackles/ 1-1/2" TB
45k miles
Probably close to 100 miles in 4wd, but 1200+ miles on dirt/unimproved roads
Speedy laps around the desert, slow rock crawlng
After 20k with my T-Bars cranked, I had both axle seal go out. However, I was still under warranty and the generously replaced both at 30k. Didnt change anything, and have had no leaks yet..
 

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FYI - I had my axle seals fail before I cranked my TBars.
 

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Bubbaloos 2" Shackles - TBs cranked to level (7 turns from stock, abt. 2")

Drove about 6000 miles (abt. a year) before installing the current setup.

No more than 200 miles in 4x4

Mostly moderately challenging Jeep trails, or less.

No mechanical failures, BUT insides of the front tires wore off much faster than outsides, and when turning a corner, like at an intersection, the front tires would always squeal. Even though the dealer said the alignment was in spec, clearly something was not as it should have been. It kind of makes sense though if you've ever watched the inside front tire in a square corner. It goes way negative on the camber, which would naturally place more force and scrub on the inside edge. The lower in the range of suspension travel, the more negative the camber gets. So if we raise our trucks by putting more pre-load on the TBs, we're actually moving the static equilibrium point lower in the range of travel, creating a natural negative camber problem. It can be aligned out, but maybe not enough? Just thinking out loud. Maybe someone with better understanding of the suspension engineering can explain this.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I talked to an alignment specialist about this and the upper control arm needs to be removed and keyed to allow enough adjustment to be properly aligned. Many shops will tell you that they're in alignment because it can't be adjusted further, rather than key the control arm and adjust it right. Go to another shop but expect an hour labour tacked onto the alignment charge. Some of the arms are keyed at factory even, in order to get the proper alignment with the stock height.

Enough of a thread drift but we should add how many cranks it took to get our heights as well.

5 cranks for 1.5"
 

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X2 on the inside tire wear issue
 

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Actually: The problem with the alignment is that the specs in the book that GM publishes ARE STILL WRONG. You need to have them actually through it on the alignment machine and align it properly - not just to the WRONG specs.
 

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Going off of what Rangerbob said - Go to an alignment specialist. They'll show you how far off the dealer "in spec" alignment really is. The ones around here do anyway. The dealer was at the bare minimum of being properly aligned instead of being aligned where it should be.
 

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justplanecrazy said:
Well it's been over a year since you guys came out with the mod.

ppl have been crankin t bars on GM vehicles since the early 90's, some ppl have problems and some don't, all the problems are the same:.. ball joints, cv boots etc......
 

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Not the TB cranking. :roll: The front differential lowering mod.
 

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The Rel said:
Go to an alignment specialist. They'll show you how far off the dealer "in spec" alignment really is.
Yeah, I took mine to a local tire center that does lifts & drops too, so I figured they'd do it right. There wasn't any extra charge, or mention of any keys, etc. though. So I'm sure they just adjusted it within the range of the existing cams.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Anyone have any issues with the transfer case seals blowing with the diff drop and sharper angle on the forward drive shaft?

Deasel everyone knows what you wrote but no-one knows how common the problems are. There's been numerous TB lifts done on this forum and its a good chance to see if there are any problem patterns. Also, I've never heard of anyone dropping the diff before finding this forum and am very curious if there will be any problems that develop from that mod.
 

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I've had it for quite a while now ( 10k miles? ) and have no problems. 4WD works just like it did before.
 

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justplanecrazy said:
Anyone have any issues with the transfer case seals blowing with the diff drop and sharper angle on the forward drive shaft?
I never dropped mine with the TB crank, but the Rancho lift also involves dropping the diff. So . . . I don't think there will be any problems. I'm sure they spent a lot of time and money engineering their system. I'm at the office right now, but if you'd like, this evening I can check the actual distance the Rancho system drops the diff. Then you can compare with what others are doing here and make you're own judgment.
 

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i believe the main pattrern for the problem involves off roading with the tb lift. if u stay mostly on road driving there shouldn't be any problems.
 

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the inner tire wear is common on many lifted IFS trucks.
my friends 4runner lifted 2.5 inches has more wear on the insides than outsides also, and his truck is aligned as good as it can with his current setup.
 
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