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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
This guy simply makes sense. His knowledge is empirical and you cannot put a price on that.

Definitely agree with all his points, but he's also prioritizing long term, international overlanding travel. Gas mileage alone probably makes the decision there (and maybe install cost).

I've been researching most of the day again and think @hoooogan already figured out the right choice: Kenda Klever. Looking at their RT. They're in stock, a hybrid AT/MT similar to the ridge grapplers, really well reviewed, true to size (about 34.7") and waaaay cheaper than either KM3s or Nittos. They're also a tad lighter at just over 70#. Seems like a winner.

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hahaha! I did pull the trigger on the 12.5 instead of 10.5 though. Since I'm already at 285 (~11.5), I decided I'd rather go up than down in width.

$1200 delivered for all 5 from Walmart. With any of the others, I was only going to buy 4 new and search for a used spare. These were so much cheaper, I sprung for the 5th.

What pressures do you run on and off road?


Also, just to wrap up the thread, thanks to everyone for talking me out of 37s


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Hahaha! I did pull the trigger on the 12.5 instead of 10.5 though. Since I'm already at 285 (~11.5), I decided I'd rather go up than down in width.

$1200 delivered for all 5 from Walmart. With any of the others, I was only going to buy 4 new and search for a used spare. These were so much cheaper, I sprung for the 5th.

What pressures do you run on and off road?


Also, just to wrap up the thread, thanks to everyone for talking me out of 37s


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You really cant beat the price. On road I've been everywhere from 25-45psi. Doesn't make much of a difference, although I don't usually pay much attention. Offroad depends on my planned adventure. If I know it gonna be balls to the wall, 18psi. If I'm cruising or crawling, 15psi. You could probably go even lower, but I've never felt a desire to do so.
 

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2021 GMC Canyon AT4, CCSB, V6, leather, tow package, Bakflip MX4
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Not much mention of the ability of the diffs being able to handle 37's. I came from years in the Jeep Wrangler world and the general consensus there was 37's were Dana 60 country. The diffs on the Colorado/Canyon are probably comparable strength wise to the Dana 44 and Dana 30 on a non Rubicon Wrangler. 35's were just barely acceptable on the 30 being very careful with the skinny pedal. 35's would also bend the axle flanges on the rear 44 if not careful. 33's were a safer bet from the reliability standpoint.
 

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Not much mention of the ability of the diffs being able to handle 37's. I came from years in the Jeep Wrangler world and the general consensus there was 37's were Dana 60 country. The diffs on the Colorado/Canyon are probably comparable strength wise to the Dana 44 and Dana 30 on a non Rubicon Wrangler. 35's were just barely acceptable on the 30 being very careful with the skinny pedal. 35's would also bend the axle flanges on the rear 44 if not careful. 33's were a safer bet from the reliability standpoint.
There are probably less than a dozen trucks on 37's, TOTAL. 35's have only grown in popularity over the last year and virtually no one has had any issues on 33's. Overall, the ZR2 platform as a whole has had very few broken CVs and even less broken diffs/gears. Generally speaking, we don't wheel as hard as Jeeps do. So in reality, we don't have enough data to suggest any limits yet.

On the Jeep spectrum, you often have very amateur, even first time offroaders throwing 37+ tires on their stock jeeps with a lift and they usually become overly confident because the trucks just go. That's when you'll see broken parts. Our 35+ crew are typically experienced offroaders that want more than 33's. It's not a light decision. Basically, we know what we are doing and how to be cognizant of parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Not much mention of the ability of the diffs being able to handle 37's. I came from years in the Jeep Wrangler world and the general consensus there was 37's were Dana 60 country. The diffs on the Colorado/Canyon are probably comparable strength wise to the Dana 44 and Dana 30 on a non Rubicon Wrangler. 35's were just barely acceptable on the 30 being very careful with the skinny pedal. 35's would also bend the axle flanges on the rear 44 if not careful. 33's were a safer bet from the reliability standpoint.
I'm not saying you're wrong and this is definitely another good check in the con column for this thread's question. That said, I see absolutely tons of 37s on Jeeps with stock 44s (I'm sure most are regeared though). Maybe they break too, but to hooogans point, there are way more of them out there to break and I think many of them are driven differently.

I'm definitely not claiming to be an expert driver either, but I think I'm pretty good at taking it easy on parts. Those were the first lessons I concentrated on learning, because I'm all about vehicle preservation and driving home.

I agree that the 37s would create even more strain on everything - gears, diffs, lockers, CVs, tie-rods, every joint in the driveline, suspension components and wheel bearings too. It makes sense that more will break as the necessary forces grow.

This is the common sense advice I come to the forum to get (and try to give back), so thanks again for the feedback.

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The majority of Jeeps I see on the road are mall crawlers, regardless if they are lifted or not.
If you off-road your gear, you will wear it out and eventually break stuff. Whether you do that on the trail or cycle it out of service through a heightened maintenance schedule before it bins up on you on the trail is up to you.

33s on an open Dana 30 is about as much as I'd run, but even that is cringe worthy for too long. Throw in a locker into that mix, and you better treat it with some caution. I wouldn't consider our IFS equipped fronts much stronger, but it would be nice to see some comparisons.

35s on these trucks do look sexy, but I think even that is asking for trouble - depending on how one treats it.
 

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2021 Black \/6 4WD Z71 Crew Cab Short Box
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You can’t argue with the stance of that truck
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
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2021 Chevy ZR2 ECLB, Blue-the best color
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Not much mention of the ability of the diffs being able to handle 37's. I came from years in the Jeep Wrangler world and the general consensus there was 37's were Dana 60 country. The diffs on the Colorado/Canyon are probably comparable strength wise to the Dana 44 and Dana 30 on a non Rubicon Wrangler. 35's were just barely acceptable on the 30 being very careful with the skinny pedal. 35's would also bend the axle flanges on the rear 44 if not careful. 33's were a safer bet from the reliability standpoint.
actually the rubicons get the m220 rear and m210 front. Jeep JL Rear M220 - Dana 44™ AdvanTEK® Axle | Rubicon & Gladiator

the zr2 is m220/m200 the 200 i believe is equivalent to a dana 35 although on the dana website it lists both 35 and 44 when you search m200 ifs. the gm is 7.625
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Forgot to finish this thread with a shot of the 35s. Without hitting the trail I've been trying to find ways to stuff the tires at various angles here and there. In reverse at full lock so the rear of the tire is tucked in, I can rub the front cab body mount under compression. I'll have to chop the edge of that too. I could probably solve it with forward caster too, but the back edge of my steel cbi covert bumper is close up front. Could easily cut that back as well, but trying not to.

37s would definitely be problematic without a lift.


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actually the rubicons get the m220 rear and m210 front. Jeep JL Rear M220 - Dana 44™ AdvanTEK® Axle | Rubicon & Gladiator

the zr2 is m220/m200 the 200 i believe is equivalent to a dana 35 although on the dana website it lists both 35 and 44 when you search m200 ifs. the gm is 7.625
My research a few years ago gave me this info.
Rear M220, a Dana 44 equivalent with a 8.5 inch w/30 spline axle.
Front M200, a Dana 30 equivalent with a 7.2 inch w/27 spline axle.
When I changed gears I commented the front R&P could have been out of a riding mower.
After seeing the front R&P I went 33's. It's tiny.
 

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actually the rubicons get the m220 rear and m210 front. Jeep JL Rear M220 - Dana 44™ AdvanTEK® Axle | Rubicon & Gladiator



the zr2 is m220/m200 the 200 i believe is equivalent to a dana 35 although on the dana website it lists both 35 and 44 when you search m200 ifs. the gm is 7.625
My research a few years ago gave me this info.
Rear M220, a Dana 44 equivalent with a 8.5 inch w/30 spline axle.
Front M200, a Dana 30 equivalent with a 7.2 inch w/27 spline axle.
When I changed gears I commented the front R&P could have been out of a riding mower.
After seeing the front R&P I went 33's. It's tiny.
The nitro gear box says Dana 32 for the front. I thought they sent me the wrong thing when I opened it. The front ring gear is cute.
 

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2010 Chevy Colorado Crew Cab 4x4 Z71 V8
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My research a few years ago gave me this info.
Rear M220, a Dana 44 equivalent with a 8.5 inch w/30 spline axle.
Front M200, a Dana 30 equivalent with a 7.2 inch w/27 spline axle.
When I changed gears I commented the front R&P could have been out of a riding mower.
After seeing the front R&P I went 33's. It's tiny.
Those rear axle specs are identical to my GM 8.6”.

I’m kinda shocked that my front ring gear is larger (only slightly) than the new trucks.

I guess I don’t have to feel so inadequate compared to those new fancy trucks.😉
 

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2021 Chevy ZR2 ECLB, Blue-the best color
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My research a few years ago gave me this info.
Rear M220, a Dana 44 equivalent with a 8.5 inch w/30 spline axle.
Front M200, a Dana 30 equivalent with a 7.2 inch w/27 spline axle.
When I changed gears I commented the front R&P could have been out of a riding mower.
After seeing the front R&P I went 33's. It's tiny.
ah. thanks. good to know. i'm pretty sure i'm going to run through a set of 33's before and if ever i go to 35's......maybe. did you find out what the axles are made from? hopefully some moly blend anyway. what gears di you go to? i have some 4.56 in a box behind me.
 

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Forgot to finish this thread with a shot of the 35s. Without hitting the trail I've been trying to find ways to stuff the tires at various angles here and there. In reverse at full lock so the rear of the tire is tucked in, I can rub the front cab body mount under compression. I'll have to chop the edge of that too. I could probably solve it with forward caster too, but the back edge of my steel cbi covert bumper is close up front. Could easily cut that back as well, but trying not to.

37s would definitely be problematic without a lift.


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I had to do some cutting on the rear tab of the CBI covert to fit the AEV highmarks and 35”s. Worth every bit.

After about 20k miles my Nitro 4.56s have failed. Won’t know if it was setup or gears that failed until 5/12. Now that Dana/Spicer makes 4.10s I’ve elected to go that route. They are currently the only US made gears for our axles. The potential add of a SC or LT swap and the 4.10’s make more sense anyways.


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