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Subthump has finally produced a harness for anyone looking to add an aftermarket subwoofer to their Bose system. They've been working on these for a while, mainly on the 6th gen Camaro. And since the connections are pretty much the same, they were able to complete their Colorado/Canyon harness:

*New" 2016-2017 Colorado/Canyon Bose Plug N Play Amp Integration Harness
 

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So what else would you need in addition to this harness? Sub, box, and power wire?
Line out converter
Powered sub
Wiring to power sub

I'm looking at the LC2i converter and a Pioneer or Alpine 150 watt sub. $250 to $350 depending on brands. You can get by with a $12 converter.
 

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Line out converter
Powered sub
Wiring to power sub

I'm looking at the LC2i converter and a Pioneer or Alpine 150 watt sub. $250 to $350 depending on brands. You can get by with a $12 converter.
How's that sub going to sound just off the Bose amp? Will it be enough juice to push it? Would we still use the front door speakers?
 

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How's that sub going to sound just off the Bose amp? Will it be enough juice to push it? Would we still use the front door speakers?

It's a powered sub, 150 watt amp. I plan on tapping in at the rear speakers, I have a Ext Cab. I have read that tapping off front speakers is not the way to go. There is a long thread here on installing a sub and that is what I gathered from reading it. Something about the front speakers carry other than just music, the front can carry chime sounds and other stuff. I've read that the Colorado BOSE system can roll off bass as you increase volume. The LC2i is suppose to correct that.

Now that I have had the truck over 2 months I'm not in a big hurry to add the sub, the bass can be very good if the source is good.
 

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Unless they've changed something from the 16 models, then you definitely want to use the front woofers for your signal. When I wired my sub in, I used Kicker's install guide. KICKER | SCOCRE15

The rears carry a mid signal.

Isn't this Kicker for the non Bose system?
 

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Unless they've changed something from the 16 models, then you definitely want to use the front woofers for your signal. When I wired my sub in, I used Kicker's install guide. KICKER | SCOCRE15

The rears carry a mid signal.
Pretty sure the rears carry the full range, and the subwoofer system should have the appropriate circuitry to filter out everything above 80-150hz or whatever...
 

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Isn't this Kicker for the non Bose system?
I don't think so. I have the bose system. I didn't get this specific product, I put in a Kicker Hideaway, just used the install guide for where to tap the wires. I thought I read somewhere that the rear had the lows filtered out, but I could be wrong. I assume that Kicker did more research on the stereo than us and if they recommend the front woofers, I'll run with that.
 

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Unless they've changed something from the 16 models, then you definitely want to use the front woofers for your signal. When I wired my sub in, I used Kicker's install guide. KICKER | SCOCRE15

The rears carry a mid signal.
After more research I agree. The best place to tap for a power sub is the front door speakers. Use the harness above for plug and play. I will clip the ANC wiring also.
 

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So the harness and a powered sub (kicker, pioneer, etc...) are the only two things you need to install? No tapping in other speakers?
If you use the harness it installs at the Bose amp behind the glovebox so you do not need to open the door panels.
You need a line out converter to interface with the powered sub, these run from 12 to 65 dollars.

The harness is wired to the line out converter, LOC uses RCA plugs to the powered sub. You need to run 12V power to the sub. You'll need to remove the sill plates to run wires under the carpet, power on one side, signal on other side. Not needing to remove the door panels is big, they are a pita.

LC2i converter
 
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I received Subthump's 6G-BZT harness yesterday. There are just 3 sets of wires coming off of it: front left and right, and left rear. For the Canyon/Colorado, the instructions say to use just the left front and left rear...seems a bit strange but I'll run with it. I'll be wiring it to a Rockford Fosgate T500X1br mono sub amp using the high level signal-sensing inputs. Initially, I will not use a LOC...but may add one later if necessary. The amp will drive a 10" JL Audio CS110G-TW3 sub.
 

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I installed mine about 2 weeks ago. Kind of a pita but doable. If you have big hands you may struggle with this. It helped a ton to take off the little access panel on the side of the dash.

Mine came with the wires labeled incorrectly or at least they didn't match the write up so it took a bit of trial and error to find the right combination of wires. Frustrating when the instructions aren't proper. Otherwise it was worth the money.
 

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Not much info in your post. What was a pita about it? Unplugging the connector from the amp? Wiring?

How was yours labeled incorrectly as opposed to what write-up? Mine is labeled just as it says it should be on the subthump website...white for left front, green for left rear, gray (apparently not used on Canyon/Colorado) for right front. Is that not correct? In what vehicle did you install it?
 
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