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2021 Black \/6 4WD Z71 Crew Cab Short Box
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@HenryT
I would think somebody worried about “steering locking up and killing your family is the “No-Ball Bitch” in this scenario.
hey Henry here’s a glimpse of something that I’m sure you can’t even fathom building- let alone running down the road. Get one of these running from boxes of old parts and come talk to me. Otherwise shut your mouth. And if you wanna get your ass kicked talk to somebody in person like that and see what happens.
View attachment 414228
 

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Blocked that fucktard for my own mental health. Getting pissed staring at my phone makes me feel like a faceblocker. :) any way back to business as usual trying to come up with something funny and helpful to say.
 

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Thanks for the reply WV don’t know why I let that dude get under my skin but your reply is turning my day around. Why oh why does somebody who seems perfectly normal turn into a troll?
Sorry I hijacked your thread Hoo. I have an anger management problem I guess. I’m pretty nice until somebody messes with me then I explode. After that I come up with plenty of witty/difusy things I should have said.
@hoooogan
 

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Well gents, I just pulled the harness off the assist motor and found the main, multiwire control harness has dust all over the inside of it. All the other connectors were clean. So, I might just be right and sealing this is the fix for the assist loss....hopefully.

@Mtn_man that recall is specific to replacing the torque sensor cover, for water intrusion at the torque sensor. That is seemingly resolved in the later model years. So, pushing that recall for my incident doesn't make sense.

View attachment 414219
Don't forget to let us know if you get any inerasable codes.
Had that happen with a Benz when I fixed the seat, had to buy a new scan tool to reset the damn airbag code. fookers.
 

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2021 Black \/6 4WD Z71 Crew Cab Short Box
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Hey Henry-
Don’t be a bonertaster
BTW this is the funniest insult I have. It is reserved for times when truly needed. My buddy in high school was the only person I ever heard say it. He was super funny I figured he came up with it. Use it wisely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
What difference does it make? If there are enough notches close enough together when it works correctly why does it matter when it doesn't have assist?
It probably doesn't matter. I was just grasping at straws, trying to correlate the rare assist loss with this sensor's trigger wheel spacing. When my assist gets degraded, a characteristic is the wheel goes dead for a few degrees, then the assist comes back. My thought process was that it relies on the torque sensor to retrigger the assist, almost like a failsafe of sorts.

Like I mentioned, it was just some speculation and showing what the sensor looked like. It's all just conspiracy theories and black magic. :LOL:


Don't forget to let us know if you get any inerasable codes.
Had that happen with a Benz when I fixed the seat, had to buy a new scan tool to reset the damn airbag code. fookers.
I'll definitely be continuing the documentation process. This is a can of worms that never should have existed, but showed up in my tackle box. I'm here for this community and want people to have something to reference in the future. (y)
 

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16 Canyon SLT, V6, 4X4, Longbed, Cyber Metallic Gray
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Don't forget to let us know if you get any inerasable codes.
Had that happen with a Benz when I fixed the seat, had to buy a new scan tool to reset the damn airbag code. fookers.
On my MB electronics, tobreset steering and antilock brakes, had to turn wheelballbthebway left then right then left again.
 
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Discussion Starter · #89 · (Edited)
Saturday update.

Got the rack put back together. She's not butter smooth, but the cleaning and fresh lube is MUCH better than before. I did the same input spin test and there is no sign of binding. The mechanism is still a little loud from the damage caused by the dirt, but I can live with that for now. I greased EVERYTHING. Everywhere that water pooled, had corrosion.

I ended up buying 100 new stainless 5mm ball bearings to replace the worn ones in the assist mechanism. Got the 1-13/16" socket at tractor supply, which I would advise anyone else go with a 6pt 46mm instead. Mine worked, but not ideal. To address the steering boots, the rack is 2.5" at the ends, and the Raptor boots are for a 2.75" opening. I got some 2.75" OD and 2.5" ID aluminum tubing that I'll use as a shim to fill the gap. It only needs to be 7/16" wide. At the tie rod, I'll be doing the same thing, but with 1.25" OD and 1" ID tubing to fill the 1.25" small opening on my 1" tie rods. 🙂

Order of assembly (assuming everything is disassembled):
  • Pack the assist sleeve with grease and 18 ball bearings per each of the four channel. Take your time to ensure bearings are in correct channels. There will be about a 3/8" gap in the channel, with no balls. Also, beware of the voids, between the channels. Balls don't belong there.
  • Carefully spin assist sleeve onto greased steering shaft making sure none of the ball bearings jump out of channel (Unit bearing should be towards center)
  • Place one shim behind unit bearing and insert long end of shaft into housing. Shim should sit between housing and unit bearing. Place second shim over unit bearing and thread on locking collar. Collar should sit flush or slightly recessed from housing face. I used a drift and hammer to tighten lock ring.
  • Rotate rack shaft to align teeth with input shaft hole (look in the input hole and you should see teeth). Position shaft at ~1.5" protruding from end of housing (this is centered). Insert greased input shaft and index with notch facing the adjacent end of rack. Install input shaft lock nut (I just hit it was a few uga dugas with the impact gun. Input shaft bolts to a cartridge bearing, so torque doesn't matter, just tight), and replace cover with Teflon tape or sealant.
  • Install well greased preload block, spring and tensioner screw, tighten to no movement, and back off about 1/4 turn. (I marked mine before disassembly and the same procedure left me back at the same mark). Install lock nut and tighten to previous mark.
  • Connect torque sensor harness to cover. Install cover over a cleaned and lightly lube input shaft (mine had surface rust). Fill large dust cap with thick waterproof grease, and place on input shaft. Same with smaller cap seal.
  • Place belt on assist mechanism. Slide assist motor in place while fitting to belt as it slides in. Twist motor and screw down to hold tension on belt. Motor has a twist cam style tensioner system.
  • Install assist cover, tighten down.
  • I used some electronics cleaner and a small brush to clean the connectors. Flooded each one with dielectric grease and installed. I have to note that the main control connector is not the best fit. It looks like it's not quite pushed in all the way, but it clips down. That was the connector that had dust intrusion and now I see why.
Here's a couple pics in no particular order

Automotive tire Household hardware Finger Rim Wheel
Human body Gesture Body jewelry Finger Thumb
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Cameras & optics Camera lens Gas
Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Tread Camera accessory Tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 · (Edited)
Well.... everything is back together. BUT the service stabilitrak warning came on and both traction control and stabilitrak lights on. I think the problem is that the wheel was a full rotation right when I pulled the rack, but I installed the rack straight. I remember turning it so I could access the heim hardware on the driver's side, to remove the inner tie rod. I can go full lock left, but the assist stops halfway to lock when going right. The reverse cam also had the guide lines curved like I was turning right, but I was pointing straight, so that theory makes sense. I would take it to Chevy, but my rear shocks are out for revalve, and i'm not gonna bounce my way over to the dealer. Looking into grabbing a scanner that can perform a sensor relearn, incase I wanna do this again and replace the worn parts or swap the rack entirely.

Anyway, the aluminum tube shims worked great for adapting the new boots. They were a press fit, so they ain't going anywhere. Used a little silicone to make them water tight. Boots went on with a little fuss because it's a larger boot in a tight space. Also used slightly small hose clamps so that made install a little more difficult.

Also swapped in the larger DirtKing heim clevis' that I've had forever, but used custom fit misalignments to keep the 5/8" heims instead of using the 3/4" one's the clevis is made for. Now the tie rod is able to get over double the heim angle so that makes it a little more adjustment friendly. The UTV clevis had to be perfectly straight or it would bind during lock to lock. It had one, single spare degree of angle. Now it has like 20, so I can be a little less concerned with straightness.

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Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Coil spring Electrical wiring
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Ordered an Autel MD806 Pro. Supposedly does S.A.S. relearn, and was only about $245 after tax. Was looking into more expensive units, but didn't want to get ahead of myself. I saw someone's quotes for the SAS relearn from a dealer costing $130, so we will see if this does the trick. If not, I'll need to reassess. I think I need a new battery as well, so more fun!
 

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2017 Chevy Colorado Z71 Extended Cab 4WD Summit White
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Ordered an Autel MD806 Pro. Supposedly does S.A.S. relearn, and was only about $245 after tax. Was looking into more expensive units, but didn't want to get ahead of myself. I saw someone's quotes for the SAS relearn from a dealer costing $130, so we will see if this does the trick. If not, I'll need to reassess. I think I need a new battery as well, so more fun!
Well it is always good to have the Scan Tool. That one does a whole alot more then the basic.

As far as the battery. Make sure you have a Battery Memory Saver.
I have:
414423

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...chumacher-obdll-memory-saver-cable/429081_0_0

And it will be powered by:

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Schumacher Battery Extender 12-Volt 1,200 Amp Battery Jump Starter-BE01255 - The Home Depot

Never going through the issues I went through again when I had to change a battery in a 2005 Camry. The computer lost the firing order. Took between 30-45 minutes before it would keep running and I could drive again
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Well it is always good to have the Scan Tool. That one does a whole alot more then the basic.

As far as the battery. Make sure you have a Battery Memory Saver.
I have:
View attachment 414423
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...chumacher-obdll-memory-saver-cable/429081_0_0

And it will be powered by:

View attachment 414424
Schumacher Battery Extender 12-Volt 1,200 Amp Battery Jump Starter-BE01255 - The Home Depot

Never going through the issues I went through again when I had to change a battery in a 2005 Camry. The computer lost the firing order. Took between 30-45 minutes before it would keep running and I could drive again
Thanks, but I'm not worried about the memory thing. My battery was disconnected this whole last week and the computer remembered the steering wheel position. I couldn't start the truck when I reconnected it today. It's over 3 years old at this point, so the time has come to replace. Gonna continue my run of controversial mods and do an H8 AGM. 😂
 

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Thanks for keeping us updated @hoooogan .
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Thanks for keeping us updated @hoooogan .
No prob! I hate when other people start threads and don't finish, especially if it's a rare issue. It was quite the learning experience as well. First time I've taken any steering rack/box apart.

The scanner should arrive tomorrow, so hopefully I can close this thread for good. 🙂
 

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Well.... everything is back together. BUT the service stabilitrak warning came on and both traction control and stabilitrak lights on. I think the problem is that the wheel was a full rotation right when I pulled the rack, but I installed the rack straight. I remember turning it so I could access the heim hardware on the driver's side, to remove the inner tie rod. I can go full lock left, but the assist stops halfway to lock when going right. The reverse cam also had the guide lines curved like I was turning right, but I was pointing straight, so that theory makes sense. I would take it to Chevy, but my rear shocks are out for revalve, and i'm not gonna bounce my way over to the dealer. Looking into grabbing a scanner that can perform a sensor relearn, incase I wanna do this again and replace the worn parts or swap the rack entirely.
Is the sensor in the column?
Maybe you just have the wheel turned one revolution too much that one way.
I don't know, just throwing it out there.
It's good to be careful of this because of the clockspring too.
 
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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Is the sensor in the column?
Maybe you just have the wheel turned one revolution too much that one way.
I don't know, just throwing it out there.
It's good to be careful of this because of the clockspring too.
Good call on the clock spring. I definitely installed it one rotation off. When I get some motivation, I'll see if it's possible to remove the steering shaft without dropping the rack. The middle connection is easy to access from the side of the truck, and there is a good amount of throw in the slip shaft. Worst case, it's four bolts to drop the rack.
 

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As an engineer who works on electronic power steering (EPS) design / integration into a vehicle, this thread peaks my interest for obvious reasons. No, the company I work for doesn't supply the 2nd Gen Colorado / Canyon steering gears so I do not know specifics and I won't share things I shouldn't.

@hoooogan

Great thread and good job investigating this on your own.

I didn't get a chance to read all 100 posts yet in detail, here's some of my thoughts.

On Locked Steering Cause:
1. A chipped rack or pinion tooth causing binding is rare, but can happen due to a high impact event (curb impact, off-roading, etc)
2. Water & Debris intrusion due to leaking boots (bellows) that cause corrosion / contaminant build up on the ball nut and/or rack teeth. This typically happens due to either a cut boot or improper fitting of the clamps. We run destructive testing for this exact scenario, and the pictures you posted look just like our post destructive testing gear tear down. Over time the corrosion / contaminants build up results in lesser assist (higher human input at the steering wheel) and the driver should start to feel or hear a crunching phenomena and possible stickiness during rack movement. The crunching / stickiness / binding are worst after letting the truck sit for a while (overnight), then after you steer left / right the corrosion can "wear-in" to the point where steering starts to feel normal again. Eventually, the corrosion / contaminants either cause a sudden locked steering events requiring very large steering wheel torque by the driver (120+ lb-ft) to break throught the bind or freeze up the whole steering gear. From my experience, the water doesn't intrude into the motor due to a shaft seal, but I'm sure it's happened to someone at some point especially if the motor is below the rack due to packaging reasons.

Torque and Pinion Angle / Position Sensor Connector:
1. There shouldn't be dirt inside the connector. Did you disconnect / reconnect this at some point? Adding a little grease to the connector seal can help prevent future water / contaminant intrusion. Obviously, clean that up as best as possible.
2. If you lose electrical connection between the torque sensors and motor, you will lose assist.
3. If you disconnect the torque sensor connector while the vehicle / steering gear is powered on, you WILL set trouble codes. Typically, reconnecting and cycling ignition will put the trouble codes into history.
4. Torque sensors use a change in the magnetic flux to calculate the driver input torque, so the teeth / gaps you mentioned in post #76 (Steering locked up on freeway - the investigation begins) aren't gears you're feeling engage a tooth at a time nor is the cause of notchy steering feeling. See this US patent as a reference: US9302700B2 - Torque sensor and power steering system using the torque sensor - Google Patents
5. From post #93 (Steering locked up on freeway - the investigation begins), since you reassembled the gear back together not in the same position relative to each other from original, you'll need to clear the learned value and/or retrim the pinion position sensor (S.A.S - steering angle sensor I assume). If the after reinstalling the gear, the pinion sensor reads say 200 degrees at actual mechanical center this is likely this is causing errors in the angle hand off to the ABS brakes computer, setting the stabilitrak warning light.


Other Notes (in no particular order):
1. The tie rods are designed to be the weak point and buckle prior to a damaging load causing rack deformation, EPS housing cracking, etc. Keep this in mind if modifying or beefing up your tie rods, like adding tie rod sleeves or replacing with Heim joints.
2. If using Oetiker clamps for the boots, make sure to have the right tool and avoid damage to the boot during removal. Just buy new Oetiker clamps for reinstall if questionable.
3. EPS is reliable, there's vehicles on the road for decades now (yeah, you could claim my bias here). As with anything, once you start causing events outside the range of original design you will cause the part to eventually fail.
4. Loss of assist from EPS is controllable per ISO safety standards, there's a test for loss of assist while steering into a curve at speed and the steering wheel effort by the human driver must be below a certain torque based on vehicle classification. However, during loss of assist the steering effort by the driver is very heavy especially when vehicle is static or low speeds (less than 3-5mph). Steering a full size truck with no assist is difficult and I'm a pretty fit younger man, so I know my wife couldn't do it no assist.
5. The ball nut acts as a lead screw to translate the rotational torque from the motor into linear force. The tolerance for the balls and rack is high, therefore sensitive to contaminant intrusion.

Let me know if could clarify anything else.
 
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