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In the non Bose setup, we have the dash speakers tied into the door speakers. How is the wattage from a head unit or amp presented? If an amp is sending 50 watts by 4 channels, the rear speakers are getting 50 each. Would the fronts split the 50?
Spoke with Crutchfield about this and surprisingly couldn't get an answer.
 

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In the non Bose setup, we have the dash speakers tied into the door speakers. How is the wattage from a head unit or amp presented? If an amp is sending 50 watts by 4 channels, the rear speakers are getting 50 each. Would the fronts split the 50?
Spoke with Crutchfield about this and surprisingly couldn't get an answer.
If the front, say , left dash and door are connected together in parallel and they are the same impediance then they would (basically) share the power equally.

I can guarantee in my truck the rear doors get nowhere near what the front get, you can barely hear the stupid things unless you tune the fader way to the rear. Crappiest sounding stock radio I've owned to date BTW. :(
 

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I've had the canyon with bose, and now have the colorado without... The canyon sounded better, but the middle speaker threw off the soundstage, therefore bose system sounded better with center speaker disconnected. It had "bose" speakers, but they weren't great--probably to keep the price down while keeping the "premium" name. The amp is a required "feature" of the bose system, and could not be replaced without losing certain basic functionality within the truck such as door chimes. This is a real pain for audiophiles who wanted to upgrade their systems. On my colorado without bose, I agree about the back speakers being much quieter than the front, but the idea again is to have a sound dynamic that represents real life... The singer would only be in one place at one time, and that is assumed/designed to be front and center. Anyway, it all depends on user preference, but I run component speakers in the front (tweeters and woofers) and composites in the rear (2-way), with a nice amp and equalizer. The bottom line is, if you want a decent sound with no work, get bose; if you like to customize your sound, especially amp, avoid bose.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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I've had the canyon with bose, and now have the colorado without... The canyon sounded better, but the middle speaker threw off the soundstage, therefore bose system sounded better with center speaker disconnected. It had "bose" speakers, but they weren't great--probably to keep the price down while keeping the "premium" name. The amp is a required "feature" of the bose system, and could not be replaced without losing certain basic functionality within the truck such as door chimes. This is a real pain for audiophiles who wanted to upgrade their systems. On my colorado without bose, I agree about the back speakers being much quieter than the front, but the idea again is to have a sound dynamic that represents real life... The singer would only be in one place at one time, and that is assumed/designed to be front and center. Anyway, it all depends on user preference, but I run component speakers in the front (tweeters and woofers) and composites in the rear (2-way), with a nice amp and equalizer. The bottom line is, if you want a decent sound with no work, get bose; if you like to customize your sound, especially amp, avoid bose.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Number one problem with the non-bose (I've never heard the Bose in this truck) is tone, the equalization is absolutely ear splitting, horrible!

The reason for the center channel up front is supposed to be imaging, I experimented with it years ago and didn't like the results, it killed the l/r separation IIRC.

The problem with the rear door speakers it they may as well be non-existent. I fully understand the sound stage but there is also a thing called rear fill and it is very hard to adjust with this truck. I swear the tone changes in the front when you move the fader back too. Just weird. Not to mention you kill power to the front as soon as you adjust it back at all. The system doesn't have enough power to spare for this.

Anyway I have changed the dash speakers to two ways using coils on the mids, and my own caps on the tweeters with pretty good success. I ended up having to add tweeters in the door pillar cover because the ones in the two way are lacking in dB. Mostly because I like to cross them over pretty high. The new dash speakers crossed over the way I like made a huge difference. I haven't messed with the door speakers yet, maybe I will in the future. I was into sound waaaaaay back in the 80's, I'm sure there are awesome processors out there now that I would have fun playing with, but I guess its not on top of the list so much anymore. At least this thing is tolerable now though.
 

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Jscottm, you hit on some good points, exactly as I remember them. First and foremost, the 80's was a fantastic time to get into music! But I'll digress here and leave that at that ☺... On the bose system, the center speaker did kill the left - right balance; the dash speakers were not true tweeters at all, I measured their outputs well into mid range, also, they were of course made of paper. However, for the average Joe, the sound was decent, better off the line than non-bose. Your comment on "rear fill", what I tend to call surround sound, hits the nail on the head. I think the non-bose system, overall, was made to be overhauled by people who care, or serve the general population of people who don't. The bose, in my opinion, was meant to serve as an "upgrade" for nearly the same general population of people--not targeted to the audiophile whatsoever. I suppose if I had to recommend a system configuration for those with non-bose, it would be similar to yours; tweeters in the pillars are a very good idea, use the dash L/R to cover mid-high range, then front doors for woofers for low range (with optional sub box under the back seat). I'd use 3-ways in the back doors. Top it all off with a decent amp w/crossover and add an equalizer, then tweak as necessary. Btw, it's impressive that you do your own caps on tweeters (no tweeter should be without a capacitor)--it's been my experience that folks who take that leap into soldering their own electronics are rare and valuable.

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Disclaimer - I am 45 years old with no hearing problems. Not a teenager; not a geriatric. Admittedly not an audio engineer.

Holy God. I love my non-Bose sound system, and I think it has a great sound. I vary between Metallica, Pearl Jam, Ice Cube, Public Enemy, Waylon Jennings, David Allen Coe, news, sports and talk radio, so I am that generic listener that this middle-of-the-road system was designed for, and I think it's great.

The modifications you guys mention making to your systems sound incredible, and I imagine they're amazing in real life. I'm sure everything I mentioned listening to would sound way better in your ride as opposed to mine.

But if you're someone scanning this forum looking to buy a really cool truck with a ton of great features out-of-the-box, I can't recommend a better decision than the Colorado and Canyon. Enough cool stuff to leave it stock, and a cool enough canvas to add every mod to if you'd like. On top of that, you get this community for free.

Keep on truckin'...
 
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Jscottm, you hit on some good points, exactly as I remember them. First and foremost, the 80's was a fantastic time to get into music! But I'll digress here and leave that at that ☺... On the bose system, the center speaker did kill the left - right balance; the dash speakers were not true tweeters at all, I measured their outputs well into mid range, also, they were of course made of paper. However, for the average Joe, the sound was decent, better off the line than non-bose. Your comment on "rear fill", what I tend to call surround sound, hits the nail on the head. I think the non-bose system, overall, was made to be overhauled by people who care, or serve the general population of people who don't. The bose, in my opinion, was meant to serve as an "upgrade" for nearly the same general population of people--not targeted to the audiophile whatsoever. I suppose if I had to recommend a system configuration for those with non-bose, it would be similar to yours; tweeters in the pillars are a very good idea, use the dash L/R to cover mid-high range, then front doors for woofers for low range (with optional sub box under the back seat). I'd use 3-ways in the back doors. Top it all off with a decent amp w/crossover and add an equalizer, then tweak as necessary. Btw, it's impressive that you do your own caps on tweeters (no tweeter should be without a capacitor)--it's been my experience that folks who take that leap into soldering their own electronics are rare and valuable.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
The best/easiest/cheapest way for me to get decent sound out of this truck has been to buy new 2 ways for the dash and cross them over to my liking. I just shop for speakers that you can get to the driver's wires separately so I can get my own caps and coils on them. The tweeters always have caps but I usually end up with something different.(cross them over at a higher frequency, and use new coils to cross over the mids lower) I put coils on the door speakers too to kill the shrill of the highs coming out of them. Parts Express has all the goodies at a reasonable price, just don't get a ready made crossover, get the coils and caps separate or you get hosed. I like your ideas for the truck. I think for me the next step would be an amp and woofer somewhere in there. We shall see.....

It would be nice if they gave us an EQ with more than 3 bands on this fancy unit too, right? Did the Bose at least have that?
 

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Disclaimer - I am 45 years old with no hearing problems. Not a teenager; not a geriatric. Admittedly not an audio engineer.

Holy God. I love my non-Bose sound system, and I think it has a great sound. I vary between Metallica, Pearl Jam, Ice Cube, Public Enemy, Waylon Jennings, David Allen Coe, news, sports and talk radio, so I am that generic listener that this middle-of-the-road system was designed for, and I think it's great.

The modifications you guys mention making to your systems sound incredible, and I imagine they're amazing in real life. I'm sure everything I mentioned listening to would sound way better in your ride as opposed to mine.

But if you're someone scanning this forum looking to buy a really cool truck with a ton of great features out-of-the-box, I can't recommend a better decision than the Colorado and Canyon. Enough cool stuff to leave it stock, and a cool enough canvas to add every mod to if you'd like. On top of that, you get this community for free.

Keep on truckin'...
I'm close to you in age, actually a little higher and I get what you are saying....BUT

Of course everyone's hearing is a little different but I have to disagree. I found this sound system unfit for even talk radio! I swear its like they tried to make it sound bad!

Mine does sound way better than it used to but it is far from "amazing" thats for sure.

The bottom line is, if you are happy with it that is all that matters. And trust me, I am very happy with my truck, even with the completely stock sound I was happy with it. In fact, I have a really nice car sitting next to it in my garage that I rarely drive anymore because of it. ahaha! I did drive it yesterday to charge the battery up though. :)

Yes there is a wealth of info in this community, it has helped me spend way too much money on my truck too so I'm not sure you could call it "free" ;):-D
 

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I am fixing to do a high SQ sound system in my 2016 Colorado - Audiofrog 2 or 3 way setup - 5 or 6 channel high end class D amps + DSP and a 10" woofer in a sub thumb center front fire box.

Should rock in that car!

And I agree, stock non bose system can sound REALLY good. Treble to max - mids 3-5 down from max and low 5-7 down from max. It will get loud. Just changing speakers out alone should make a serious difference. A 6x9 driver, and a 3" 2 way coax in dash like the JL C2 set I bet would be a nice upgrade on the cheap.
 

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The rear door speakers put out the same volume as the fronts...I measure them awhile back with a dB meter. The problem with the rears sounding quite is placement in relationship to the driver. Also you have a separation of tweeter and mid-range in the front which doesn't help balance out the overall speaker system. I suspect the rears (at least in crew cab) was really meant by GM for passengers in the back and not to balance out the whole system.

On my DYI list is to put a 2 channel small amp in the back for the rear door speakers...I believe this would dramatically improve the overall sound of the system. Also I think speakers with a separate tweeter built in would help a lot too in the rears.

If an amp is sending 50 watts by 4 channels, the rear speakers are getting 50 each. Would the fronts split the 50?
Not 100% sure of wattage, but I think it's a 40W system with 10 watts going to the speakers, but in the front a cross-over would be use to separate the tweeter from mid-range frequencies...so between the tweeter & mid-range speaker the pair is receiving 10 watts of power.
 

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I am fixing to do a high SQ sound system in my 2016 Colorado - Audiofrog 2 or 3 way setup - 5 or 6 channel high end class D amps + DSP and a 10" woofer in a sub thumb center front fire box.

Should rock in that car!

And I agree, stock non bose system can sound REALLY good. Treble to max - mids 3-5 down from max and low 5-7 down from max. It will get loud. Just changing speakers out alone should make a serious difference. A 6x9 driver, and a 3" 2 way coax in dash like the JL C2 set I bet would be a nice upgrade on the cheap.
Adjusting the treble, mids, and low like you said made my stock audio sound so much better, I don't have to do a thing. Thanks,
 

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Do you guys install the tire frequency cancelling speakers under the dash or where?
 

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Do you guys install the tire frequency cancelling speakers under the dash or where?
I've heard of noise cancelling headphones but is there really such a thing designed for a car? Could you provide a link to this device? Thanks!
 
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