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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, I own a 2016 gmc canyon base 2.5L extended cab. I have already done some slight interior cab modifications by removing the back seats and put a wooden floor panel in above the crossbar but I wanted to take it a step further by possibly adding sound deadening material inside the back plastic wall panel, inside the doors and even under the carpet. I do a lot of highway driving and the interior sound level is good but I'm thinking i could make it great by adding sound suppressing material. I have already found what seems to be, the cheapest material if you by it in 12"x12" sheets (2pcs included) in a quantity of four. Heres the link to the material. https://www.thermotec.com/products/...rs/suppressor-acoustical-and-heat-control-mat Im wondering what your thoughts, opinions and suggestions may be on this upgrade and whether I should even do it. Lastly a possible how to on taking the back plastic interior off as well as the floor carpet, interior plastic door panels.
 

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I have a 2018 zr2 and have been adding some sound dampening in it. I am impressed they do already have some in it and the padding under the carpet is much better than the old material they use to use in cars. Unless you are trying to give the truck a deader sound or improve the acoustics I don’t think it will be worth it. I have not noticed much difference in mine and mine is pretty much done except for the front doors, waiting on my replacement speakers to show up before tearing into them.
 

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I like the Thermo-Guard FR better, linked on that page. I would have to both in hand, though, to be sure. The cost difference is small. The main thing is that it be easy to work with to get a good fit.
 

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Might be a little late but I used a product called Noico for an El Camino Restomod I’m doing. I bought 50 sq ft of sound deadener and 37 sq ft of thermal installation for $110 from Amazon. The Thermal insulation was important to me here in FL to keep the cool air in with the AC on. The deadener came in 12 sheets, and I used 8 1/2. Very impressed with the product and install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I checked it out and looked at the reviews seems like a great product. I was thinking about getting the 36sqft and just applying to the inside panel doors and seeing how it goes from there. Then possibly add more. I think it would be helpful not only for me but everyone else to do a trial run with sound deadening material by using a digital sound level meter and getting readings from each door, back seat panel, driver side floor, passenger side floor and back seat flooring.
 

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diminishing returns

you get what you pay for
if yours doesn't have the wheel well liners that could be a noise issue also from the tires
if you have access to one, check out the upper trims to see they have in terms of noise damping. gm did a pretty good job in getting the cabin quiet. anything more than what they've done would probably take a lot of time, money, and effort for not much more results over than what gm accomplished. not saying it can't be done, but imo, they've done a pretty good job. its one of the reasons i bought mine vs. another brand.
 

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I agree with those saying that GM did a good job keeping the cabin noise low on the 2nd gen trucks. They are so much better than the first gen. The door seals on my 2008 extended cab sometimes get overwhelmed by strong cross winds, making for a very noisy drive.
 

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I checked it out and looked at the reviews seems like a great product. I was thinking about getting the 36sqft and just applying to the inside panel doors and seeing how it goes from there. Then possibly add more. I think it would be helpful not only for me but everyone else to do a trial run with sound deadening material by using a digital sound level meter and getting readings from each door, back seat panel, driver side floor, passenger side floor and back seat flooring.



Hi, searched for a thread about this. Did you get it done? If so any advice on taking off the back truck panel and door panels? I plan on adding some sound deadener, I already ordered it. The cab is quiet already, BUT I added an aftermarket exhaust so the noise level is higher. Let me know how it went.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Never got it done because i couldn't figure out how to take the door panels off and flooring without ripping or breaking anything. i was thinking about buying the mechanics book to completely learn on how to take the truck apart but its pretty expensive. but I did look into exhausts and found the best exhausts with little to no mild interior resonance. The best mufflers to have and not sacrifice interior sound would be the 50 and 70 series flow master mufflers. The only downside i heard is that they rust out after 2 years.
 

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Oh ok thanks for response. I ended up deadening the rear panel and rear doors. Going to do front two doors today. It isn't so bad taking them off. The rear panel you don't have to take completely off just pull forward. Not doing under carpet because that will be a pain. Instead did under the truck lol...and the door panels aren't back in exactly the way they should be but unnoticable..
 

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Just fyi. I got real good at taking off the door panels. The 1st one though is a biaatch, until you get used to it. I can help with any questions on taking them off and putting them on correctly.
 

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Just fyi. I got real good at taking off the door panels. The 1st one though is a biaatch, until you get used to it. I can help with any questions on taking them off and putting them on correctly.


I’d love some tips. I plan to take my front door panels off to try to fix some rattles that appear to be coming from something in there. I was thinking of taping up everything that looks rattly then applying some dynamat while I’m in there.
 

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[/QUOTE]

Yeah. Ok. I'll do my best. You need a pry tool, plastic or hard rubber. I used a regular plated small pry tool, and it left some minor scratches. Do one door at a time. So you can always have a visual of a fully assembled one. Front doors have 5 screws and back doors have 4... Screws are on bottom of door panel, 1 on rear and 2 on front door. The other screws are (1) inside plastic behind the door opener, pry that cheap plastic off and (2) behind arm rest plastic. Here some pics Vehicle door Automotive exterior Vehicle Car Door handle
 

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Continued. Take off the wire connector from window opener and in driver front side there are two for other controls. Take off all screws and when you start prying start from bottom. It's all plastic clips. Then as you pry off the top of the panel is the hardest because of clips on window sill. Just pull up real hard and gently. It should eventually come out along with rubber window separator.
 

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When you put everything back on, put those window sill clips back first with the rubber window separator aligned in them with the windo sill. Then start from bottom and clip everything pushing real hard. Make sure all clips are back in door panel and All your wire and door connections are correct. Then the last thing is push real hard in top of door panel to connect top clips. Edit. Some rubber clips come off on door panel other stay in door. Just put them back in door panel before two installing. Except top window sill clips take those off of door panel and put on window sill first .
 

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