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Discussion Starter #1
Head snapped right off and it's flush with the frame. I tried using a screw extractor and broke 5 drill bits in the process. Any other suggestions? Will I be fine for the time being to keep driving the truck?
 

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Head snapped right off and it's flush with the frame. I tried using a screw extractor and broke 5 drill bits in the process. Any other suggestions? Will I be fine for the time being to keep driving the truck?
If the bracket is still on tight with the other bolt and the other side is connected as well, I'd just drive it to a shop to have the bolt removed. They'll make quick work of it. If you're not sure of the stability of the bracket on that side, just remove the swaybar for now. You can definitely drive it without - just has less lateral stability in quick turns.

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Discussion Starter #3
If the bracket is still on tight with the other bolt and the other side is connected as well, I'd just drive it to a shop to have the bolt removed. They'll make quick work of it. If you're not sure of the stability of the bracket on that side, just remove the swaybar for now. You can definitely drive it without - just has less lateral stability in quick turns.

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It's on there pretty good with the one bolt missing. I laid underneath and tried to wiggle it back and forth and it didn't move at all. Felt sturdy driving to work today so I think I'll just take it into a shop tomorrow.
 

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Same thing happened to me when I was putting the drop brackets on. Had to take it to a shop and have them heat and drill it out.
 

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Head snapped right off and it's flush with the frame. I tried using a screw extractor and broke 5 drill bits in the process. Any other suggestions? Will I be fine for the time being to keep driving the truck?
had to mag drill the hole it was awful did the same thing last week
 

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If you have access to a welder, you can weld a nut to it. Hold the nut up to the broken stud and fill the hole with material. The heat will help loosed the stud and the nut is now a bolt.
 

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This is a really odd issue that seems consistent with the twins but no other vehicle I've ever encountered, unless rust is the culprit. But this is happening on lower mileage vehicles.
Can we all determine if it is a particular bolt that is breaking on them all?
Can you guys reply with a front right, front left, rear right or rear left?
When its time for my bushing replacement, this has never been a job I took to someone else to do cause its often one of the easiest jobs.
Forearmed is forewarned. Or something like that.
 

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I guess it's time for you guys in the salt/rust belt to remove bolts and put anti-seize on them. I am shocked at the look of the rust and corrosion on a newer car I see on youtube or something. Around here where it never rains and sure as heck doesn't snow this is not an issue very often. Exhaust is usually the only problems I see, just because of heat I'm sure.

I did a sway bar lower on mine and IIRC wasn't the bolt a self tapping piece of crap?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This is a really odd issue that seems consistent with the twins but no other vehicle I've ever encountered, unless rust is the culprit. But this is happening on lower mileage vehicles.
Can we all determine if it is a particular bolt that is breaking on them all?
Can you guys reply with a front right, front left, rear right or rear left?
When its time for my bushing replacement, this has never been a job I took to someone else to do cause its often one of the easiest jobs.
Forearmed is forewarned. Or something like that.
Front passenger bolt.
 

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What would you recommend? I'm using Makita Gold.
99% of broken drill bits are broke because of the user. A drill held straight and perpendicular (90 degrees) to the surface being drilled will seldom break. Even in the event of a tough bolt like a grade 8, the drill bit should just get dull and refuse to cut, not break.
 

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I also broke the front passenger bolt taking the sway bar off to install Eibach springs/shocks a while ago. The other 3 bolts were pretty tough to remove, but that one just snapped off immediately. I drilled it out. It's a pretty tough bolt, but I eventually got through. I remember I used a grinding bit on a dremel to rough the surface up when it was getting glazed which was helpful. I think I heated it too. The other thing I remember was that the bolt is pretty long, but its not actually that far to get through the frame where it is threaded. Once I was through I knocked it out to the inside of the frame and used a strong magnet to get it out.
 

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This is a really odd issue that seems consistent with the twins but no other vehicle I've ever encountered, unless rust is the culprit. But this is happening on lower mileage vehicles.
Can we all determine if it is a particular bolt that is breaking on them all?
Can you guys reply with a front right, front left, rear right or rear left?
When its time for my bushing replacement, this has never been a job I took to someone else to do cause its often one of the easiest jobs.
Forearmed is forewarned. Or something like that.
rear drivers side
 

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An old machinist trick that we always used at work, was to get a Left Handed drill bit, as close to the Tap Drill for the bolt thread size. Use a small pilot bit and you MUST get a start right down the center of the bolt. Work your way up with increasing size drill bits until you get close to the Left Handed bit. When you run the Left Handed bit in, running the drill in Reverse, most of the time, it will unscrew the broken bolt out, if not, drill thru, and then peel the bolt threads out with a punch or screwdriver. We had an abundance of misc. size drill bits, so it was no problem for us. Run the drill slower with the Left Handed bit, so it grabs the bolt.
 
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