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SLAP the Colorado

9K views 36 replies 6 participants last post by  logistixs 
#1 ·
Figure I might give this try. Maybe it will turn into a maintenance build thread. Sounds Like a Plan

Starting out un-traditionally, its a repair.

Here in Texas, we got a cold front for a few days and just my luck, no heat! Not sure who I want to blame, but I definitely glad this forum exists. I thank those whom share experiences, knowledge, and still managed to post. Its the reason why I have a love/hate for this platform sometimes.

So dealer was a no go for me. Quite the few reasons why, but mostly, warranty ended back in July this year @ 55k miles. Plus there is another story in between with them. So I took it upon myself to figure out why no heat.

Coolant levels, good.
Dead cold consistent in the cabin, so it didn't seem as if there was air in the heater core.
Temps appeared ok (learned a few things). Factory gauge, useless. The Banks iDash came in handy.
Top radiator hose cold.
Thermostat stuck closed.

I replaced one on my last gen. It didn't seem that difficult, and fairly straight forward. Yea, no GM. What a PITA!

Some things to note in order of removal

Not a lot room to get a breaker bar for the tension pulley to then remove
Charge pipe
Throttle body
Fuse box
Alternator
Unbolted the AC compressor and slide it over.
Unbolted EGR assembly to temporarily remove just the EGR cooler. :mad: It will go back on.👮‍♂️👮‍♂️. Hold your horses.
Then comes the hose.

All this work to access 2x 10mm bolts to replace a $150 part that is hidden under the intake manifold, bundled with an ungodly amount of hoses. Small hands is the advantage here, fiddled those nuts, bolts, and hose clamps. Seems like they all each needed a special tool to remove.

Still going at it tomorrow, day 3 since I ran out of light. Who should I thank/blame for working on my Thanksgiving day. Some one tell me I went about this wrong,
 

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#6 ·
maybe your luck and mine, this thread turns out better. Since I'm not sold on the third gens, I guess it will be sticking around.


I hope your grief and aggravation pay off in the thermostat being the issue and the replacement resolves the problem. As bad as replacing the thermostat is, having to replace the heater core is far worse. One thing is nagging me though: if the thermostat was locked closed, your engine should have been running warmer than normal. Did you notice elevated engine temps? FWIW, here's a shot of the replacement procedure from the manual:

Yea, I've read the heater cores are a nightmare. However, it was also one of the first thing I checked for blockage from the engine firewall.

In my five years of ownership. I never knew what the real temps should have been. It wasn't until a fiasco and I got the Banks gauge. My only experience but played it off was in the midst of July this yesr. Typically our hottest month. The radiator fan kicked on more frequently while in traffic. Nothing noticeable on the factory dash. iDash hovered around 165-172* F on the highway. 180* F was the highest I ever got then it dropped backed down to the norm.

Thanks for posting the V6 info. Someone might find it useful. Sadly I am diesel. The thermostat housing is different. Its has two auxiliary lines pre-theromstat. Heater and EGR cooler.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I hope your grief and aggravation pay off in the thermostat being the issue and the replacement resolves the problem. As bad as replacing the thermostat is, having to replace the heater core is far worse. One thing is nagging me though: if the thermostat was locked closed, your engine should have been running warmer than normal. Did you notice elevated engine temps? FWIW, here's a shot of the replacement procedure from the manual:

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#4 ·
I hope your grief and aggravation pay off in the thermostat being the issue and the replacement resolves the problem. As bad as replacing the thermostat is, having to replace the heater core is far worse. One thing is nagging me though: if the thermostat was locked closed, your engine should have been running warmer than normal. Did you notice elevated engine temps? FWIW, here's a shot of the replacement procedure from the manual:

View attachment 438014

View attachment 438013
Tom, he mentions "charge pipe and EGR" so it must be a 2.8 LWN
 
#7 ·
The old thermostat for reference. Even has a temperature sensor. Sure enough it was stucked closed. Pour some boil water and into a bucket. Never opened.

Also picked up some gaskets and nuts to replace since I had to unbolt part of the EGR assembly. apart, and almost round off the nuts for the t-stat yesterday. The nuts are highway robbery, but at least it was in-stock on a moments notice.

After 55k miles. the EGR cooler didnt look so bad. A little crusty around the edges, but it did not look plugged. No way to get to t-stat unless it comes off. Good luck with the coolant hoses for the cooler.

At least I managed to get it back on easier. Still fighting with the rest way especially the hose clamps and space, even with tool.
 

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#9 ·
Back at it this weekend and finally heat and of course its not needed since its in the 80's today.

Ordered me a vac and fill setup to be certain I wouldn't get air in the system versus a static fill. Wish I had bought this sooner. With the vacuum pressure I can leak test it prior to filling.

I had to do this twice and have now lost all credibility of the mechanics at my dealer. After my mishap in the beginning of the year with a engine replacement. They couldn't even put coolant lines back together correctly. Second drain to fix the crossed lines from the surge tank to the water pump manifold. No wonder, I didnt get heat and wondered if it was the cause of my thermostat failure too.

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#11 ·
Did the same mod on the first gen and figured I turn this into a build thread. I finally man upped and drilled the hole into the mirror to add the LED for illuminating those mall parking lot puddles.
Pulling the door panels later this week while I wait on the pins and terminals to populated into the door harnesses.

Trying to decide if i should tie into the reverse lights, or just interior dome lights. Since they are the two choices off the top of my head that illuminated when doors are unlocked.

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#12 · (Edited)
Connectors and pins came yesterday. Gotta love Mouser being in TX. Started pulling the driver side panel and mirror to run patch wires. Sly GM threw me a curve ball. Definitely not the same connector for the mirror according to the upfitters guide. Spent a few hrs yesterday and a couple today to get the connector terminated and checked continuity. A little more work than expected. Luckily I had the right matting connectors to swap it to per layout. I wonder now if I could get heated side mirrors since it wasnt available on the Z. All connections were factory terminated at the door but not at the mirror.

I wonder if other 17MY whom changed out tow mirrors had issues with compatible connectors.

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Fishing wire thru the body door harness went easier than expected. An old coat hanger with a shoe string does the trick.
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#13 ·
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#14 ·
If you have rear defrost, the answer is yes to heated mirrors. Prior to 17s, the only way to get them was with RPO DL9 for the chrome -gag- appearance package. The 17s that have the rear defrost option should also have the wiring to the door, just needing the OEM heated mirrors, 4 terminals and a short run of wire to make the jump. I have a set of the OEM terminals if you want them, got them from another member that I won't need since I just got the Boost mirrors in.
 
#15 ·
I remember this now. The chrome.. yikes.

Well dang I am late to the game. I just found the thread related to the heated mirrors install. At this point all I would need is the heated glass. I would just go back and add the extra wires. Still have to do the passenger, but the kicker will be removing the door panel again on the driver. Just one day later was all I needed to avoid this.

Thanks I have the extra terminals unless you are referring to the heating element ones.

Interestingly though I love to get the Muth S-MOD and heated ones. Since it removes the useless pocket mirror.

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#16 ·
That's still only half the amount of work than if you had finished both and buttoned them up. The Muth mirrors were something I looked at early, but wanted towing visibility more.

Are you re-pinning the door connector with the new puddle lights? Cause I could use some of those terminals for the Boost install instead of punching holes in the boot.
 
#17 ·
That's still only half the amount of work than if you had finished both and buttoned them up. The Muth mirrors were something I looked at early, but wanted towing visibility more.

Are you re-pinning the door connector with the new puddle lights? Cause I could use some of those terminals for the Boost install instead of punching holes in the boot.
Yea Im literally about to pull the trigger on the Muth mirrors. Too many added benefits for me.

I looked into the tow ones too, but function over form won that game.. The best looking ones I have ever seen are from the 2500HDs of the 01-06 years

Yep I would call it populating the door connectors..the 34 pin connector has a few unused slots. I used pin 22. Push the butt seal, unlock the lock insert, stick in the new pin to a slot of choice. You can kinda see in one of the pics where one of the seals is higher than the other. Second to last pic.



Finding the pins took a while since the ones called out are out of stock. Managed to find the alternates male and females and they popped right into place. I could send you a few or give you the part number to see if they are still in stock. Once I get a chance to look up my order history.

Just finished the driver side late in the night yesterday. I get decent light dispersion on the ground.
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#18 · (Edited)
Thanks, that should clean up the install. Did you need specific tools to crimp and depopulate the connector? I just have this connector pin tool set.

I thought about the puddle light thing, but I was going to put a waterproof SMD5050 LED strip on the bottom of the doors instead. Seemed easier than the mirror mod. I still have to wire the footwell lights that are installed (at least on the drivers side anyway), but are just hanging out... for three years.

Edit. Was also thinking about doing a standalone Blind Spot system at the same time as the tow mirror install. Have you thought about that?
 
#19 ·
Nothing special to depopulate the butt seals. A fine clay pick or one of the tools in your set should be long enough to push the seal out from the opposite side. I always had a molex knockoff tool that worked universally well to crimp pins and terminals. Don't know the brand or part off the top of my head. Requires a little more care if. You crimp with wire seals.

The pins and seals I ordered for the door connector

F/M pins
60102031
10864926
10763185
I went with two different female pin part numbers, but when I got them they both physically looked the same and I didn't see the differences at least based on what Mouser sent me and data sheets.

Seals
60993913
15441380
The seals vary based one wire gauge you end up using. I used red for 18AWG.

For the mirror connectors. I had the male pins from when I did the mirror install wayback. I believe it's

SAITW-A03T-064

If these don't work for you shoot me a PM.

I thought the same as well but I didn't have LED strips. I had a bunch of LEDs used for signs that I repurpose. Still haven't used them all They are a bit thicker but bright! Even used them for rack and bed lighting.
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#21 ·
So...


Before I enable/contribute-to-your-mania/inspire you further, how far are you along to buttoning this mirror project up? Because I have an addition I'm considering for my mirror project that I know you'll like...

[emoji23]
Haha. I stopped half way because I ordered the Muth mirrors and wanted to tackled it all together. It show up just yesterday unannounced and perfect to tackle over the holiday break.

I am all ears buddy. Throw it on me.

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#22 ·
Thought I had a line on a more affordable Intellihaul 1.0 multicamera unit for the IO6, but the seller started corresponding with me and shot that down. Decided no matter what I wanted my front camera back, so I ordered a PAC MCI-GM51 interface. Going to put two cameras on the Boost mirrors I have.
 
#23 ·
You just enabled. For the longest time I wanted the echomaster kit, GM had for the Colorado but hated the chrome mirror caps that came with it and its added length. I heard of PAC but never thought they made the IO6 module. Dare I say it's the same to the GM Echomaster kit. I want to say the harness is different given that it has the RCA plugs for the cameras vs pin inserts for the door connector. Tradeoff, this does give you the better option for camera placement. I look forward to having this now. You turned a puddle light project into the desire for a full blown mirror tech package setup. Do you have auto dimming side mirrors up your sleeve too?!
[emoji23]

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#24 ·
Waited to tackled the passenger side so I could add the Muth heated and signal mirror. The interior fuse box needs to be removed to gain access to the door connector for routing wires. Next couple of days its redoing the driver side to add the signal mirror. Man do I enjoy remove the panel...

Maybe I'll circle back and add the cameras, I need to do a little more digging on how to get the cameras wires to fit in the mirror and connect to the PAC MCI-GM51. Dont think the video feed connector fits thru the door connector.

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#25 · (Edited)
It's a keeper so I put a ring on her. Well a beauty ring for the 4WD knob. When it got relocated, it solved one problem but created another. No more bumping it, but thought it was a bit too small to grab.
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#27 ·
A couple presses on the steering wheel and I have my 4x4 screen on the cluster. Haha.

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#29 ·
Yeah, yeah, rub it in that you have the Off Road screen in the DIC [emoji14]

If it weren't for you, I'd literally never know what mode my truck was in. Now the switch is visible, and where it belongs.
It was pleasure of mine. Happy to hear you are still enjoying it.



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#30 ·
While I do wish for some nice $100+ billet handles for the roof rack I just can't stomach the cost, especially when you want more than a pair.

$25 amazon special FTW.

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#31 · (Edited)
#32 ·
Almost needs to be quick detach and it could be used as a blunt shank. [emoji23]

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#33 ·
Start installing the PAC multi camera interface that GM discontinued for the Colorado but having to piece my own cameras. Gave in to peer pressure of @Thunderbear after lurking on the GM accessories kit version. Tucks nicely in the pocket where the BOSE speaker would have gone.

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Going to have to pull the door panels off once again to run the cameras signals. Should be fun. in the meantime get all other wiring prepped.

Figured as well to prevent future rattles when pulling panels is to add some tessa tape to the metal clips.

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#34 ·
I'm not sure I quite qualify to be a peer enough to pressure you, amigo. I'm just a jarhead trying to follow along with smarter people than I am. :p

Currently trying to figure out the best place to put a camera on the Boost mirrors, which is a challenge based on how they come apart. Is that stuff on your clip similar to the tape wrap for interior wire?
 
#35 ·
Looking back when I did the turn signals. I was thinking right under the hinge for the factory mirror. This way its straight through and not up and over

The tape on the clip is the same stuff used on the factory interior harness. Its even on the MCI harness. Holds way better than electric tape. There is a fleece type and one almost like athletic tape which for higher temps.

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