Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this months Ride of the Month Challenge!
41 - 60 of 75 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Had had the same hose clearance issue as you did.

When I installed my Provent I had to fab my own hose set up ....then the excellent hose set up from Sasquatch became available. Time to swap the setup much like you did D.Drax. I did have an issue though that required a "custom solution". The factory install of the coolant hose put the hose right next to and rubbing on the Provent. There are only so many variations on turning the Provent body in the mounting bracket that allow the Sasquatch hoses to route properly.
What I ended up doing is mounting the Provent with nylon stand off spacers and using longer metric bolts to move the Provent forward. This allowed proper alignment of the hoses while moving the Provent away from the factory mounted coolant hose. Works great! View attachment 418297
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
So just for the doubters or to simple show their worth…. I haven’t had my Provent on for very long, Its probably been either 2 or 3 oil changes. The last two times I changed my oil when it was at 20% life left. Here’s a photo of the filter I took out and a brand new filter.


Get yo self a catch can!!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
21 AT4 CCSB Desert Sand Mini Max
Joined
·
145 Posts
I just purchased a Sasquatch Parts install kit new in the box never installed off ebay - and working on finding a Provent 200. I would like to purchase the OEM hose(s) that get cut during the install so I have them on hand should I ever need to go back to factory - anyone know the names or part numbers of the hoses? I have a 2016 Diesel Colorado - I searched the threads and found plenty of info on people making their own hoses but nothing on putting back the original hoses.

Thanks in advance
The install kits I'm looking at include new silicone hoses. Why would you have to cut the OEM hoses?
 

·
Registered
21 AT4 CCSB Desert Sand Mini Max
Joined
·
145 Posts
So just for the doubters or to simple show their worth…. I haven’t had my Provent on for very long, Its probably been either 2 or 3 oil changes. The last two times I changed my oil when it was at 20% life left. Here’s a photo of the filter I took out and a brand new filter.


Get yo self a catch can!!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My oil filters look like that 20 miles after an oil change. I'd be more interested in what's actually being trapped/removed than the color of the material?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,324 Posts
My oil filters look like that 20 miles after an oil change. I'd be more interested in what's actually being trapped/removed than the color of the material?
I get a few ounces of oil per change. Using a toilet supply line valve and a length of suitable hose from the Provent drain, it works well. Colorado is super dry, I don't get any water, others get water and more fluid ounces. The oil mine collects looks the same as the crankcase oil. More importantly, the catch can keeps the turbo duct hoses from getting all oily inside, which can eventually rot them, especially the hot side hose off the turbo.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 93Duc

·
Registered
21 AT4 CCSB Desert Sand Mini Max
Joined
·
145 Posts
I get a few ounces of oil per change. Using a toilet supply line valve and a length of suitable hose from the Provent drain, it works well. Colorado is super dry, I don't get any water, others get water and more fluid ounces. The oil mine collects looks the same as the crankcase oil. More importantly, the catch can keeps the turbo duct hoses from getting all oily inside, which can eventually rot them, especially the hot side hose off the turbo.
Got it. So the filter collects the crud and then it drips down into the can where it can be drained? I have worked on M1 Abram tanks in the past. Here in the desert, we have issues with sand particles getting sucked into the turbine engines and glassing the fins. We also use a "catch can" of sorts, but its strictly on centrifugal force, no filters or screens. That's why I was asking about the filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,324 Posts
Got it. So the filter collects the crud and then it drips down into the can where it can be drained? I have worked on M1 Abram tanks in the past. Here in the desert, we have issues with sand particles getting sucked into the turbine engines and glassing the fins. We also use a "catch can" of sorts, but its strictly on centrifugal force, no filters or screens. That's why I was asking about the filter.
The catch can system is 100% sealed, the oil coalesces on the element in the can and drips down to the drain hose, which holds the oil until change time. The PCV flow, after going through the element, goes on to the turbo inlet as normal. Dirt can't get in.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 93Duc

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
The install kits I'm looking at include new silicone hoses. Why would you have to cut the OEM hoses?
You have to cut the OEM hose to get it off the engine (has band clamps) and if I ever wanted to put it back for any reason was hoping to have the spare in hand which I do now.

Here is the install process where you can see the guy cutting the bands on the OEM hose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Newbie here.
Contemplating a Colorado or Canyon with the Duramax 2.8.

My prior diesel rides included a highly modded 03 VW Jetta Wagon TDI (Rocket Ship Offroad tune) with about 210,000 miles on clock when i passed on to the 2nd owner. 05 Jeep Liberty with the Italian POS Diesel (Rocket Chip Offroad tune). 08 Grand Cherokee with the Mercedes 3.0 CRD (GDE Hot Offroad tune).

I ran Provent catch cans on the VW Jetta and Jeep Liberty but they were kinda a PITA so i went a different direction on the GC 3.0. Purchased one of these kits from CB Engineering and had it plumbed into the exhaust, right around where the DPF used to be. You could say it was a well oiled exhaust pipe.

Thoughts on whether something similar to this would be a feasible solution for the Duramax 2.8?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Who’s running this set up in the middle of the country where is cold AF this time of year? Are you having issues with freezing up? Have you made modifications to keep it from freezing up? I’m very interested in doing this but I’m worried about the winter time……
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
Who’s running this set up in the middle of the country where is cold AF this time of year? Are you having issues with freezing up? Have you made modifications to keep it from freezing up? I’m very interested in doing this but I’m worried about the winter time……
I mean it isnt ballsass cold here all the time but it has dipped into single digits and it drove fine. But in the cold i also start it with my key and then put my shoes on, then go out and drive so it gets a little bit of heat
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
339 Posts
Who’s running this set up in the middle of the country where is cold AF this time of year? Are you having issues with freezing up? Have you made modifications to keep it from freezing up? I’m very interested in doing this but I’m worried about the winter time……
sasquatch is from MN as i recall, i think they did at least one season of testing on their kit (from what i recall emailing with them) before it was released
these cans arent even in the same league as the cheesy ebay aluminum setups folks run. theyre meant for heavy industrial equipment and have pressure relief valve if anything gets stuck...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
IMHO.....if you try to keep the catch can as close to the engine (heat) as possible as well as keep the orientation of the vent hose in a constant downward trend so any moisture will keep draining - not pool. In cold climates, you get a crazy amount of water....like a cup or more in 30 days or less.

Installs the have long hose runs to the can and or low spots in the hose are asking for issues in cold climates.

You want to keep an open path from the engine vent to the bypass on the catch can so it can still vent if frozen below. Never inbetween!

jjw
ND
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
When I installed my Provent I had to fab my own hose set up ....then the excellent hose set up from Sasquatch became available. Time to swap the setup much like you did D.Drax. I did have an issue though that required a "custom solution". The factory install of the coolant hose put the hose right next to and rubbing on the Provent. There are only so many variations on turning the Provent body in the mounting bracket that allow the Sasquatch hoses to route properly.
What I ended up doing is mounting the Provent with nylon stand off spacers and using longer metric bolts to move the Provent forward. This allowed proper alignment of the hoses while moving the Provent away from the factory mounted coolant hose. Works great! View attachment 418297 View attachment 418297
Having the same issue with clearance on the coolant hose. How long of a spacer are those? Looks like I need About an inch and longer bolts.
 
41 - 60 of 75 Posts
Top