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Had had the same hose clearance issue as you did.

When I installed my Provent I had to fab my own hose set up ....then the excellent hose set up from Sasquatch became available. Time to swap the setup much like you did D.Drax. I did have an issue though that required a "custom solution". The factory install of the coolant hose put the hose right next to and rubbing on the Provent. There are only so many variations on turning the Provent body in the mounting bracket that allow the Sasquatch hoses to route properly.
What I ended up doing is mounting the Provent with nylon stand off spacers and using longer metric bolts to move the Provent forward. This allowed proper alignment of the hoses while moving the Provent away from the factory mounted coolant hose. Works great! View attachment 418297
 

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So just for the doubters or to simple show their worth…. I haven’t had my Provent on for very long, Its probably been either 2 or 3 oil changes. The last two times I changed my oil when it was at 20% life left. Here’s a photo of the filter I took out and a brand new filter.


Get yo self a catch can!!




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16whitecolly aka, the original Texas Troll IGNORED! 21 CCSB Duramax AT4 Desert Sand Metalic
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I just purchased a Sasquatch Parts install kit new in the box never installed off ebay - and working on finding a Provent 200. I would like to purchase the OEM hose(s) that get cut during the install so I have them on hand should I ever need to go back to factory - anyone know the names or part numbers of the hoses? I have a 2016 Diesel Colorado - I searched the threads and found plenty of info on people making their own hoses but nothing on putting back the original hoses.

Thanks in advance
The install kits I'm looking at include new silicone hoses. Why would you have to cut the OEM hoses?
 

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16whitecolly aka, the original Texas Troll IGNORED! 21 CCSB Duramax AT4 Desert Sand Metalic
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So just for the doubters or to simple show their worth…. I haven’t had my Provent on for very long, Its probably been either 2 or 3 oil changes. The last two times I changed my oil when it was at 20% life left. Here’s a photo of the filter I took out and a brand new filter.


Get yo self a catch can!!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My oil filters look like that 20 miles after an oil change. I'd be more interested in what's actually being trapped/removed than the color of the material?
 

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This is all the oil and gunk that would be going into the manifold, so everything it traps doesn’t make into the engine


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My oil filters look like that 20 miles after an oil change. I'd be more interested in what's actually being trapped/removed than the color of the material?
I get a few ounces of oil per change. Using a toilet supply line valve and a length of suitable hose from the Provent drain, it works well. Colorado is super dry, I don't get any water, others get water and more fluid ounces. The oil mine collects looks the same as the crankcase oil. More importantly, the catch can keeps the turbo duct hoses from getting all oily inside, which can eventually rot them, especially the hot side hose off the turbo.
 
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16whitecolly aka, the original Texas Troll IGNORED! 21 CCSB Duramax AT4 Desert Sand Metalic
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I get a few ounces of oil per change. Using a toilet supply line valve and a length of suitable hose from the Provent drain, it works well. Colorado is super dry, I don't get any water, others get water and more fluid ounces. The oil mine collects looks the same as the crankcase oil. More importantly, the catch can keeps the turbo duct hoses from getting all oily inside, which can eventually rot them, especially the hot side hose off the turbo.
Got it. So the filter collects the crud and then it drips down into the can where it can be drained? I have worked on M1 Abram tanks in the past. Here in the desert, we have issues with sand particles getting sucked into the turbine engines and glassing the fins. We also use a "catch can" of sorts, but its strictly on centrifugal force, no filters or screens. That's why I was asking about the filter.
 

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Got it. So the filter collects the crud and then it drips down into the can where it can be drained? I have worked on M1 Abram tanks in the past. Here in the desert, we have issues with sand particles getting sucked into the turbine engines and glassing the fins. We also use a "catch can" of sorts, but its strictly on centrifugal force, no filters or screens. That's why I was asking about the filter.
The catch can system is 100% sealed, the oil coalesces on the element in the can and drips down to the drain hose, which holds the oil until change time. The PCV flow, after going through the element, goes on to the turbo inlet as normal. Dirt can't get in.
 
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The install kits I'm looking at include new silicone hoses. Why would you have to cut the OEM hoses?
You have to cut the OEM hose to get it off the engine (has band clamps) and if I ever wanted to put it back for any reason was hoping to have the spare in hand which I do now.

Here is the install process where you can see the guy cutting the bands on the OEM hose
 

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Newbie here.
Contemplating a Colorado or Canyon with the Duramax 2.8.

My prior diesel rides included a highly modded 03 VW Jetta Wagon TDI (Rocket Ship Offroad tune) with about 210,000 miles on clock when i passed on to the 2nd owner. 05 Jeep Liberty with the Italian POS Diesel (Rocket Chip Offroad tune). 08 Grand Cherokee with the Mercedes 3.0 CRD (GDE Hot Offroad tune).

I ran Provent catch cans on the VW Jetta and Jeep Liberty but they were kinda a PITA so i went a different direction on the GC 3.0. Purchased one of these kits from CB Engineering and had it plumbed into the exhaust, right around where the DPF used to be. You could say it was a well oiled exhaust pipe.

Thoughts on whether something similar to this would be a feasible solution for the Duramax 2.8?

 
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