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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This just landed on my doorstep. I'll post up pics and such once I get around to doing the install!


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, install done! Took me an hour on the button start to finish including taking pics and fiddling with the drain hose (which I just coiled up in front of the airbox and secured with the reusable zip tie provided).

Started with this...

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Removed the BMS can and tubing...
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Installed the Sasquatch bracket, which was kind of a pain but not too bad. Just took some fiddling to get the expansion tank tab back over the locator on the fender, etc.
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Installed the Provent. Pro-tip, run the bolts through the nuts on the bracket before mounting the Provent to clean the threads, makes getting the bolt started much easier when actually mounting the Provent.
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Ran the hoses. Ended up going under the small coolant line, kept the host clamps loose so that the hose at the CCV heater connection could be positioned correctly. The CCV heater bracket actually attaches nicely to the lower Provent hose. The plastic bracket for the small coolant line ended up being removed and instead I just used a zip tie to secure it to the lower Provent hose.
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Ensured clearance around the heat shield, etc...
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Coiled the drain hose in front of the airbox. Cleaning and sticking the zip-tie mount to the frame rail was a pretty funny suggestion, but sticking was never in the cards. The zip tie on the airbox worked fine, though. So far...
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All done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks good. Much better than the zip tie mounting job I did with mine. Curious to see how much oil you get out of yours; I usually get a couple tablespoons out of mine every 5k miles.
Thanks! I think my BMS was collecting about the same amount, I forget exactly when I put it back in but I think I emptied it when I did my last oil change and I think I had about 1/4 cup when I emptied it for this, which was about 6,500 miles. Maybe not quite 1/4 cup, the can was about half full. I feel like the amount has gone down as the engine gets more miles put on it (currently at 69k).
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This thing is going to be so much better than an ebay catch can. kind of bummed that radium doesnt make anything for the truck. I really love their cans on my brz. They work so much better than my mishimoto even
I don't know if the BMS catch can is available on eBay, but it's not one of the cheap Chinese units. The BMS can is well designed and made by Burger Motorsports here in the US and worked well, it was actually designed for the BMW turbo engines and is one of the few cans available with ports large enough to support the flow necessary for a diesel engine. The standard catch cans have ports that are too small and are unable to flow enough. The problem is that this can and most similar designs get all snotty with oil/condensation sludge during cold winters. I had to clean it weekly in the winter, so after dealing with it for one winter I ended up taking it off. I had it off for probably 2 years before I put it back on this Spring and was going to go back to stock for the winter and just buy some Band-It clamps to put the stock hose back on but decided now would be a good time to just bite on the bullet on the Provent kit. If I didn't live where it got so cold in the winter I would've run the BMS can year-round. So folks in the south or on the west coast would have no problem.


Nasty sludge and a lot of water in a short period of time thanks to sub-freezing temps.

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What made you decide to put a catch can back on after taking it off?
I already had the can, I installed a tune around the same time I put the can back in, and the only downside to installing it (and removing it in the winters) was time. As far as the engine is concerned, less oil getting into the intercooler, intake, and engine is a good thing.

I think he was upgrading from the BMS to the Provent 200. The amount of oil these things collect is crazy... oil that goes directly into the turbo/intake.

Part of me wonders if it was designed like that, but I can't imagine GM engineers counting on PCV oil to lubricate anything...
It was just designed cheaply, they could've done what Cummins did and install a CCV filter that does drain back into the head and is installed in the valve cover, allowing clean air to flow into the intake. Oh well.

Next project is to pull and clean the intercooler, curious to see how much oil has collected in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
this im really curious to see.

definitely keeping an eye on this, thanks for posting!
With almost 70k miles and maybe 15k-20k with a catch can installed I can say the intercooler doesn't have enough in it to make it worthwhile to deal with the absolute nightmare it is to get it out and back in without removing the cooling stack. I did get some ick out of it but not enough to really make a difference. I pulled the hot and cold side hoses and cleaned those out, the cold side was minimally oily, just some condensation pooled in the ribs. Hot side had oil pooled in the ribs, so for anyone in my shoes just leave the intercooler alone and clean the hoses.

The process was so frustrating that I didn't remember to take pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Maybe I just missed it, but how does the Provent/Sasquatch kit solve the cold weather problem that others have? It regularly gets in the single digits for a few weeks where I live, so I’m curious how this works.
Not sure, but Mann says it can operate down to -40F and Sasquatch claims to have tested it in Minnesota winters.

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Slick setup! I like that the inlet hose runs uphill before reaching the can, that should help to keep at least some oil in the engine as it has to go uphill, making the catch can's job easier. It is so dry here in Colorado, I don't get the "snot" in my catch can. I recall a member in Minnesota who had lots of water in his Provent in the winter.

As for the drain hose, there is a slot in the plastic deflector pan under the radiator that works perfectly. I have my shutoff valve (a repurposed toilet tank supply line valve) above pan, then a short length of hose under it and through the pan. It is easy to drain come oil change time. Here is a pic.

View attachment 418206
I have skid plates so there's no slot, unfortunately. It's not a big deal for me to just drop the hose down when it's oil change time, so I'm not going to put much effort into running it down there permanently. Might be helpful for others, though. Thanks!

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
When I installed my Provent I had to fab my own hose set up ....then the excellent hose set up from Sasquatch became available. Time to swap the setup much like you did D.Drax. I did have an issue though that required a "custom solution". The factory install of the coolant hose put the hose right next to and rubbing on the Provent. There are only so many variations on turning the Provent body in the mounting bracket that allow the Sasquatch hoses to route properly.
What I ended up doing is mounting the Provent with nylon stand off spacers and using longer metric bolts to move the Provent forward. This allowed proper alignment of the hoses while moving the Provent away from the factory mounted coolant hose. Works great! View attachment 418297 View attachment 418297
Huh, that's really strange. I don't have any problem like that, no clearance or rubbing issues here. The little mushroom cap like thing on the back is close to my coolant hose but it's not touching.

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
For the price of the Sasquatch kit there is a lot of good things going for it, but I think it could be a better with minimal effort from the company. They should include a template to trim the engine cover, and the "adhesive" zip tie mounts are a poor excuse of a solution
Agreed, was thinking some of these might work pretty well.

 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Not sure if this helps anyone but this is where i put my valve and it looks to be much easier to access than coiled up on top
I spend a lot of time off-road in the summer and would rather have mine coiled up out of the way than hanging down where it could get snagged, whacked, etc by a rock, log, root, whatever. For...erm...mall-crawlers it should be perfectly fine like that, though. :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The element is supposed to be replaced every 25k-35k miles or so, costs like $30 on idparts.com. Not sure I'd bother cleaning it based on the price and interval.

 
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I just purchased a Sasquatch Parts install kit new in the box never installed off ebay - and working on finding a Provent 200. I would like to purchase the OEM hose(s) that get cut during the install so I have them on hand should I ever need to go back to factory - anyone know the names or part numbers of the hoses? I have a 2016 Diesel Colorado - I searched the threads and found plenty of info on people making their own hoses but nothing on putting back the original hoses.

Thanks in advance

You'll also need a tool like this for the Band-It clamps. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRDDC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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